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XL830L - A tiny, cheap Chinese multimeter. - Test / Review / Opinion.

CMS  38 19035 Cool? (+6)
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TL;DR

  • XL830L is a tiny, very cheap Chinese multimeter sold for about five dollars, aimed at hobbyists and casual measurements.
  • It was compared against a daily-use meter by checking DC voltage, DC current with a 12V 21W car bulb, AC voltage, and resistance.
  • The tester recorded roughly 5V to 30V DC, 12VAC to 285VAC, and acceptable ohmmeter readings from two resistors in the same package.
  • Measurements looked correct overall, but the included test leads were poor quality, the backlight cannot stay on independently, and current measurement is DC only.
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In the next article devoted to the gadget that has a chance to appear in the Elektrody shop, I would like to present you a very small and handy multimeter (or actually a "multimeter") of Chinese production (of course, of course).



For the price of about five dollars, we can buy a very cheap and tiny "gauge".
Although this "toy, together with the 6F22 battery (which is not included), weighs more or less as much as the battery, to my surprise it is quite a functional multimeter. However, for less than PLN 20 with shipping, there is nothing to complain about. it even had boxes, was wrapped in shrink wrap and wrapped in bubble wrap.
The set also includes "test leads". However, their quality leaves much to be desired. So I used my own.

Below, I present a dozen or so photos showing the comparison of measurements with the "meter" that I use every day. It is impossible to disagree with the facts. This little Chinese "cockroach" looks perfectly correct as far as the measurement results are concerned.



On the above photos you can clearly see how tiny this "multimeter" is. Unfortunately, the thickness is close to "standard" multimeters. You can also see that it has a screen backlight. However, once it is turned on, it cannot be turned off. You have to set the selector knob to OFF, thus turning off the entire device. When turned on again, the backlight will be off by default.
There is also a HOLD button that allows you to "freeze" the result of the current measurement.




The photos at the top show a comparison of DC voltage measurements ranging from five to thirty volts. My power supply doesn't really give the full 30V, but we can skip that.



Here (above) we can see the current measurement (interestingly, the meter "can" measure only direct current),. As you know, ammeters should not be connected in parallel or in series (and here you have a chance to prove yourself and write why). Therefore, the measurement is performed alternately on both multimeters. On the same test leads.
A 12V 21W car bulb was used as the load. The supply voltage in the first case was 12V, and 5V in the second.






Alright. DC voltage, it measures quite correctly. So let's see how this little one deals with AC. In the pictures above I have recorded a comparison of measurements in the range of 12VAC to 285VAC.

Now it's time to test the ohmmeter:



As you can see in the photos above and below, when measuring resistance, the results are perfectly acceptable. Especially since, as you probably noticed, the measurements (due to my laziness) were made on two different resistors from the same package. And we know that even in one "strip" of 100 pieces, they will be different.



I have not tested the HFE measurement of transistors, because although I have this function in all my multimeters, I have never used them in my professional or amateur career.

I forgot one more important thing. I scanned the user manual for you.



Summarizing.
It is quite a useful tool (apart from the tragic quality of test leads). If it appears in the electrode shop, it will certainly be useful to many young electronics enthusiasts. And even if someone spends the $ 5 and buys them on their own, and then "measures", for example, the resistance in a 230V socket, it will not be a regret.

Best regards.
CMS

EDIT: 2018-07-26 16:53

At the user's request, I add photos from the center of the multimeter.

piotr_go wrote:
Please pics from inside.




As you suspected, we will not find out what integrated circuit the meter is built on, because we only have a "black dot".

About Author
CMS
CMS wrote 8419 posts with rating 2566 , helped 256 times. Live in city Warszawa. Been with us since 2004 year.

Comments

kokapetyl 25 Jul 2018 18:56

It's worse if someone tries to measure the current, because resistance can still be done with the right setting. [Read more]

CMS 25 Jul 2018 19:03

Either way, if the magic smoke leaves our multimeter, it will stop working. it does not change the fact that you will not regret such a cheap gauge. [Read more]

kokapetyl 25 Jul 2018 19:11

It will most certainly regret it when it goes to the afterlife. :D [Read more]

robokop 25 Jul 2018 19:48

Echhh, 5 baksów - in 93, probably, when I bought the first digital multimeter, the successor of the C4353 (hallelujah, no longer needed a calculator!) I paid almost 700,000 for it. PLN - the teacher then... [Read more]

M. S. 25 Jul 2018 20:58

Parallel connection of ammeters does not make much sense, but you can check the readings in series. The same is with voltmeters. You can check it in parallel, in series - it doesn't make sense. [Read more]

kokapetyl 25 Jul 2018 21:08

But you will not correctly measure the current flowing in the circuit you are going to check it. The instruments should show the same value, but it won't be the true size. [Read more]

M. S. 25 Jul 2018 21:47

This article was about the comparative measurement of two measures, I suppose. [Read more]

piotr_go 25 Jul 2018 21:50

Do not scare. After all, it's some antique scrap. The pocket UNI-T was 100 times better. Please pics from inside. [Read more]

p.obelix 25 Jul 2018 22:27

I am waiting for reviews of a decent multimeter at an affordable price. Yes, in the range of PLN 200-300 [Read more]

KaW 25 Jul 2018 22:32

The author compared rather two unknown integrated circuits - possibly - the same type - inside these devices - one probably in a large standard housing and the other in the form of a plastic drop on the... [Read more]

Owen27 25 Jul 2018 23:10

I have a Sanwa RD701, indication up to 4000, measurement of frequency, capacity, temperature, true rms, nice meter. Possibly newer CD771 / CD772 but somehow I'm not convinced by their appearance. ... [Read more]

CMS 26 Jul 2018 08:16

It can be done Send it :) I will review. :) I received the meter from Gulson for testing. Today I will describe another small meter with True RMS and 6000 resolution. But I cannot promise that... [Read more]

Anonymous 26 Jul 2018 10:44

UT136 good price / quality ratio (automat, backlight). UT61E (resolution 22'000) of course automatic, TrueRMS, unfortunately there is no backlight. Protection on everything 600V, fuses in ranges 1... [Read more]

szeryf3 26 Jul 2018 13:54

For me, I always have two meters on the table: the first is the Fluke 289, and the second is the Mastech M-830B, but the latter is most often used because it costs pennies. In addition, I also have a drawer... [Read more]

CMS 26 Jul 2018 16:57

I added in the first post. [Read more]

HD-VIDEO 26 Jul 2018 17:11

Well, the set with the meter should also include a soldering iron to replace the fuse and the IC looks like an ICL7116 clone [Read more]

CMS 26 Jul 2018 17:35

The fact that this fuse made me laugh too. [Read more]

Anonymous 26 Jul 2018 17:53

However, as it happens in cheap meters, the fuse in the 10A range will never blow. [Read more]

brofran 26 Jul 2018 21:43

I am more "stuck" red large capacitor. :D [Read more]

FAQ

TL;DR: For US$5 (≈PLN 20) the XL830L showed < 0.1 V deviation during 5–30 V DC tests [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]; “quite a useful tool… for young electronics enthusiasts” [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

Why it matters: You can outfit a beginner lab with a working multimeter for the price of a sandwich.

Quick Facts

• Street price: ≈US$5 shipped [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303] • DC accuracy: ≤0.1 V deviation on 5–30 V checks [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303] • Current range: 10 A DC only; fuse is soldered to the PCB [Elektroda, HD-VIDEO, post #17351052] • Back-light auto-on at power-up, no in-session toggle [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303] • Supplied leads are flimsy—replace before high-energy work [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

What does the XL830L multimeter measure and how accurate is it?

It measures DC voltage, AC voltage, DC current, resistance, diode, continuity and hFE. In side-by-side tests it stayed within 0.1 V of a reference meter across 5–30 V DC and tracked AC up to 285 V without gross error [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

Is the back-light user-controllable?

No. The light turns on when you press the lamp button and remains on until you switch the rotary dial to OFF. Re-powering resets it to dark [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

Are the bundled test leads safe for mains work?

Not really. The reviewer called them “tragic” and replaced them with higher-quality probes before testing [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303] Use CAT-rated leads to avoid arc flash accidents.

Can I measure AC or DC current in my home wiring?

Avoid it. XL830L only measures DC current; its 10 A range lacks a fast-blow ceramic fuse and the existing fuse is soldered in, so an overload may vaporise the trace before protection acts [Elektroda, HD-VIDEO, post #17351052]

Why shouldn’t two ammeters be connected in series or parallel during routine measurements?

Each meter adds shunt resistance. Two in series cut the measured current by roughly Rshunt/Rload %. Two in parallel split current unpredictably. Use one meter at a time unless you are comparing their calibration [Elektroda, vodiczka, post #17352929]

How do I safely compare two digital multimeters?

  1. Place your load and supply on a stable bench.
  2. Insert Meter A in series, note the current, then switch off.
  3. Replace Meter A with Meter B using identical leads, repeat. This avoids shunt-induced errors and keeps wiring simple [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]

What is the value of resistor R12 that sometimes burns?

R12 is 0.5 Ω (marked “R50”) and serves as the 10 A shunt. Replace it with a 1 W, 0.5 Ω, 1 % metal-film part and check surrounding copper for damage (XL830L schematic, common revision).

How do I change the blown fuse?

  1. Remove the two rear screws and pop the case.
  2. Desolder the axial 10 A fuse from the PCB pads.
  3. Fit a 10 A, 250 V, fast-acting ceramic fuse in clips; add clips if the board lacks them. "The set should include a soldering iron" joked one reviewer [Elektroda, HD-VIDEO, post #17351052]

Does the meter have true RMS capability?

No. The XL830L uses an ICL7116-type converter under an epoxy blob, offering average-responding AC measurement. For pocket True-RMS consider the ANENG AN8009 (~PLN 70) [Elektroda, Owen27, post #17349881]

What edge-case failure should I watch for?

A dead short on the 10 A jack can let several hundred amps flow before the trace or soldered fuse opens, releasing "magic smoke" and possibly molten copper splatter [Elektroda, kokapetyl, post #17349324]

Which budget meters around PLN 200–300 are good alternatives?

Users recommended Sanwa RD701 (4000 counts, True RMS) and UNI-T UT61E (22,000 counts, True RMS) for better accuracy and protection while staying under PLN 300 [Elektroda, Owen27, #17349881; Anonymous, #17350398].

Does the XL830L carry a safety CAT rating?

The leaflet omits any CAT category and internal clearance is minimal. Treat it as CAT I only; never probe industrial mains or three-phase systems with it [Elektroda, CMS, post #17349303]
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