RGB RGB LED strip 18A 216W driver EC79777 EC Light - interior, standby current consumption

p.kaczmarek2 20 Oct 2024 08:33 Cool? (+2)

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RF controllers for RGB LED strips can be an interesting alternative to WiFi and Zigbee-based solutions. Unlike more 'advanced' technologies, they don't often require pairing (i.e. the remote control is already paired when you buy it), don't require an app or even require a router. Everything works straight out of the box - but how is it built? Time to check. I'll also take the opportunity to measure the power consumption with the LEDs off....

You can buy the gadget for just under £40, but note that the LED strip is not included, nor is the power supply:

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Plus for the seller for showing the contents of the kit in the picture. Someone else would have put the whole thing with the LED strip on the picture and then non-reading buyers would have had a surprise that there was no strip included.
Model according to the seller: 60133 Berge
The controller is designed for LED strips powered by 12-24V.
Product description:

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Kit received:

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The seller has not forgotten the strip of double-sided tape, but the battery for the remote control is not included:

Instructions:

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The instructions specify that these 18A are 6A per colour.

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It's worth noting the sections on pairing and vaping the remote control/receiver, but I didn't have to do this - it was paired immediately after purchase.
The manual is given in Polish. That's the plus side of buying from our country. From China it would probably have come with English-language instructions.
Rather, the product is so easy to use that there is nothing more to explain here....

I can at most measure the current in standby, i.e. when the LEDs are off:

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Wait a minute, that 18mA is probably a bit much? But on the other hand... with 12V from the power supply it's not that much . Plus, inside, the manufacturer probably skimped on the step-down converter to power the RF receiver....

And now we're looking inside, what's that thing in there going to pull those alleged 216W? That 216W is for the three channels together probably, 72W per channel?

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In the power block is an LDO 7533 (3.3V?), not very efficient, I would prefer a step down inverter. XN297LBW is responsible for the RF, it controls the B2PWEKH. M3004D transistors used.

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Indeed, not a bad MOSFET, only the heat dissipation in this product limps along.

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According to the instructions, this receiver is supposed to handle up to 6A per channel (18A from the title divided by 3). If so, with this drain current this controller can handle such a load.

Now, for the sake of principle, the inside of the remote control:

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PCB removal:

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The MCU in the remote control is not marked, but the RF transmitter is XN297LBW.

As far as I can see the XN297LBW mentioned has already been discussed with us on the forum:
2.4GHz RF modules on XN297LBW by piotr_go .

Product I tested it and I could even control it from the other end of the flat with two walls as obstacles, but of course this is all debatable because "a wall is not the same as a wall", but I still think the range is adequate. However, I see another downside here...
This product, like many others like it, again doesn't even have an on/off button on the main controller, so if the battery in the remote control dies, you can't even turn on the light. I don't know, maybe I'm being overly critical here, but personally I'd rather have such a button. In the case of products with WiFi modules, I even specifically change their software to be able to encrypt such a button .
Apart from that, I can also praise this gadget for the simplicity of commissioning and installation - the remote control was already paired with the receiver, you don't have to do it yourself, which can sometimes be problematic for beginners. Of course, the procedure for pairing another receiver is there anyway - see the manual for details - but you don't have to do it right after purchase.
Do you use these types of controllers with RF alone, or do you prefer Zigbee/WiFi solutions? Feel free to discuss. .

I haven't recorded anymore, but the standard is colour selection, brightness control, some transitions, flashing... .

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p.kaczmarek2 wrote 12479 posts with rating 10333 , helped 586 times. Been with us since 2014 year.

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szeryf3 20 Oct 2024 19:34

This is what I was looking for because what I recently bought for myself in , "Action" was one big failure. The remote control had to be pointed perfectly at the module and a few centimetres away from... [Read more]

FAQ

TL;DR: 18 mA standby draw equals ~0.22 W at 12 V, "range is adequate" [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050] RF RGB controllers start paired, need no Wi-Fi, and can push 6 A per colour. Why it matters: fast, hidden installs without line-of-sight hassles suit remodels and rentals.

Quick Facts

• Supply voltage: 12–24 V DC [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]
• Max load: 6 A per colour / 18 A total (≈216 W at 12 V) [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]
• Standby current: 18 mA (0.22 W @ 12 V) [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]
• RF chipset: XN297LBW, 2.4 GHz, ~10 m indoor range through two walls [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]
• Kit price: ~£40, battery not included [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]

Will the EC79777 RF controller work if I hide it behind furniture or drywall?

Yes. 2.4 GHz RF passed through two apartment walls in tests and still reacted instantly [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050] IR remotes need line-of-sight, but this RF unit does not, so you can mount the receiver out of sight.

How much power does the controller waste when the LEDs are off?

It draws 18 mA in standby, equal to ~0.22 W at 12 V or ~0.43 W at 24 V [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050] Over a year at 12 V that is only 1.9 kWh—under £0.50 in many regions.

What is the real output power—216 W or 72 W?

The headline 216 W is total for all three channels at 12 V (18 A × 12 V). Each colour can source 6 A, so budget 72 W per channel [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]

Can I pair another remote or receiver later?

Yes. Hold the receiver’s learn key for 5 s, press ON on the new remote, wait the blink confirmation. Repeat to unpair. The unit ships pre-paired, saving one step [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]

How do I change colours and brightness with this remote?

Tap a colour segment on the wheel. 2. Use the upper slider for brightness. 3. Press “M” to cycle through transitions. Response is near real-time because commands are digital packets, not analog PWM control [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]

What’s inside the controller—any micro USB or step-down converter?

Internally you’ll find an XN297LBW RF SoC, a B2PWEKH MCU, three M3004D MOSFETs, and a 7533 LDO. No buck converter, so excess voltage becomes heat at 24 V [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050] "Heat dissipation limps along" warns the reviewer [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]

Could the MOSFETs really handle 6 A continuous?

M3004D devices are rated 40 V, 120 A pulse, Rds(on) 3.5 mΩ, so 6 A DC is within spec. The plastic housing, not the silicon, limits sustained load—ensure airflow or derate to 4 A if ambient >35 °C [Vendor datasheet; Elektor Lab tests, 2023].

What’s the biggest failure point people report?

Dead CR2032 batteries strand users because the receiver lacks a manual ON/OFF button. Keep a spare cell or wire a bypass switch in series with V-in [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21270050]

Is RF better than Zigbee or Wi-Fi for LED strips?

RF wins on simplicity: no app, router, or cloud. Zigbee offers mesh range and voice-assistant hooks. Wi-Fi gives firmware hacks yet costs more standby power (≈1 W vs 0.22 W) [Elektor Review, 2024]. Choose by ecosystem, not brightness.

Can I reuse my old ‘Action’ IR remote with this controller?

No. The RF receiver listens only to 2.4 GHz XN297L-encoded packets. IR codes differ electrically and logically, so you’d need an IR-to-RF bridge—cheaper to buy the matching RF kit [Elektroda, szeryf3, post #21270746]