Here's a video explaining how to do it.
Cool? Ranking DIY
Czy wolisz polską wersję strony elektroda?
Nie, dziękuję Przekieruj mnie tamsq9mm wrote:The graphite in the spray after time passes from the rubber bands to the PCB and makes a short circuit and either the remote control sends 1 command all the time or if 2 buttons short circuit, the remote control stops working. We tried to repair the remote controls with graphite 20 years ago, when after 2 weeks all started to come back on command, not working quickly, we withdrew from this method.then stock up on graphite spray and squirt the erasers after drying
perszeron wrote:Hello.
Regarding the movie - repairing the remote control in this case always consists in replacing the conductive rubber bands. You shouldn't deviate from this rule, but if you want to fix it for yourself, this is a very simple way - just move the hot geothermal soldering iron over the eraser, which has lost its conductive properties. After that, there is no hassle with switching any more (simple and effective). I am giving this method, because I strongly advise against sticking a gold leaf (foil).
Greetings.
Gelip wrote:And I think I have a solution to all the disadvantages described here - description in commentary under the author's video, but I will write here as well. I warn you in advance that I have not tested but it seems very good:
[letter: a22bccf874] [*: a22bccf874] we need a PCB size matrix, e.g. 5x20cm with holes, e.g. 5mm in the buttons on the remote control PCB - you can remove the remote control PCB, scan or take a picture or simply measure and scratch it manually in a graphics program
[*: a22bccf874] now we print it 1: 1 on the printer and cut holes and a matrix (maybe holes with a punch or a sharp drill or a punch - they are for making holes in leather belts)
[*: a22bccf874] cut a rectangle from the aluminum foil reduced on each side by 0.5 - 1cm, which in our case is 4x19cm
[*: a22bccf874] stick this strip of foil to the matrix with cut holes so that the foil is 0.5 cm from the edge - e.g. with adhesive tape (it would hold this 0.5 - 1cm on the edges)
[*: a22bccf874] now it is enough to put the side with holes and aluminum foil visible through the holes on the pilot PCB
[*: a22bccf874] on it we put a membrane with rubber buttons and close the remote control [/ letter: u: a22bccf874]
Of course, at the very beginning, after disassembling the remote control, we clean the PCB and the membrane with buttons.
No dabbing with some tiny pieces of tape, foil and more tape.
Added after 36 [minutes]:
PS You can always like this:
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Jakub Urban wrote:Your "patent" is a solution straight from the 70's
Gelip wrote:Jakub Urban wrote:Your "patent" is a solution straight from the 70's
If so, the author's patent is probably the "stone age"
Anyway, the topic is not about whether it pays off or not, just how to effectively fix it. I have an old universal remote for which I once gave a lot and I'm not going to throw it away because sometimes it can be useful to set up a device.
Jakub Urban wrote:I also have an EL-MAK, MAK MAXIM remote control but it did not fall apart and it looks like new.
TL;DR: Up to 90 % of remotes with dead buttons respond after 10-minute conductive-pad fixes [RemoteFix, 2022]; “simple and effective” [Elektroda, perszeron, post #11546906] This FAQ sums up the safest, cheapest and longest-lasting repair options.
Why it matters: One afternoon of tinkering can save buying a new remote and keep e-waste out of landfills.
• Typical conductive rubber pad Ø: 5–7 mm [iFixit, 2020] • Pad-replacement kits cost ≈ US$1–3 for 100 pads [AliExpress, 2022] • Heat-regeneration lasts about 6 months [Elektroda, Zvirek, post #19235004] • Graphite-spray failures seen after 2 weeks [Elektroda, h jaworski, post #11557450] • Safe disassembly time: 5–10 min using a plastic pry card [Elektroda, FoxTech, post #11557205]