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2A DC / DC buck converter test with regulation and voltage and current display

TechEkspert 9462 31

TL;DR

  • A DC/DC step-down converter module offers button-adjustable output voltage and output current measurement on a backlit LCD.
  • It accepts up to 23V input, with 20V recommended, and the output is adjustable from 0 to 16.3V.
  • The converter is rated for 2A output, with 3A allowed temporarily, and it comes with a transparent plexiglass housing.
  • It has no additional heatsinks beyond the board surface.
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
📢 Listen (AI):
  • #31 17169684
    TechEkspert
    Editor
    There is a slight "overshoot" in relation to the set voltage when switching on.
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  • #32 17169776
    wieswas
    Level 34  
    The oscillogram shows that the 47uF capacitor discharged in 3ms, so I conclude that it was discharging through very little resistance so the starting current must have been large.
    So you can imagine how long the capacitor 4700 uF would discharge, and even more so, for example, a battery charged with a converter.
    So I wonder if my colleagues reporting damage to the converter did not turn off or turn on the converter loaded with high capacity. (this is just a guess)
    In the meantime, I found a pdf for the MP2307 chip (attached)
    Attachments:
    • MP2307_r1.9.pdf (444.68 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a DC/DC buck converter module featuring adjustable output voltage (0-16.3V) and current measurement, displayed on a backlit LCD. Users express interest in purchasing the module, with some mentioning its availability for PLN 36 at Gotronik and on eBay. Concerns are raised regarding the module's performance, particularly its output ripple voltage, which is reported to be excessively high (up to 1.5V at 1A load). Users suggest potential improvements, such as adding larger output capacitors to reduce ripple and enhance stability. The quality of the connectors is criticized, with recommendations to solder wires directly for better reliability. The module is identified as a "mini360" type, operating at 320kHz, and users discuss the implications of its design on performance, particularly under varying load conditions. The conversation also touches on the lack of a schematic and the need for better component quality to ensure reliable operation.

FAQ

TL;DR: Bench tests show up to 1.5 Vpp ripple at 5 V/1 A (30 %)—“a massacre” [Elektroda, czareqpl, post #17122326] A simple 470 µF output cap cuts noise dramatically [Elektroda, mkpl, post #17125841] Module uses the MP2307 ‘mini-360’ buck core rated 23 V / 3 A [Elektroda, mkpl, post #17125841]

Why it matters: Knowing limits and fixes lets makers avoid burnt loads and noisy measurements.

Quick Facts

• Input range: 6 – 23 V (20 V recommended) [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #17120828] • Adjustable output: 0 – 16.3 V, 2 A continuous, 3 A short-term [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #17120828] • Measured ripple: 150 mVpp no-load, 1.5 Vpp at 1 A [Elektroda, czareqpl, post #17122326] • Price tag in PL: ~36 PLN incl. plexi case [Elektroda, fred114, post #17121821] • Controller IC: MP2307 320 kHz synchronous buck (‘mini360’) [Elektroda, mkpl, post #17125841]

Where can I buy the LCD 2 A buck module?

Sellers list the board as “LCD DC/DC buck 2A plexi case”. Search on AliExpress or eBay or use the Gotronik offer at about 36 PLN [Elektroda, fred114, #17121821; Elektroda, hehehehuhuhu, #17121843].

Which chip drives the converter?

The power stage is the MP2307 synchronous buck IC, commonly sold as the “mini-360” module, rated 23 V in, 3 A peak, 320 kHz switching [Elektroda, mkpl, post #17125841]

Why does the display show a battery icon?

The battery indicator is cosmetic. Firmware leaves the segments static under all conditions, so it conveys no real information [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #17123195]

Can I reduce that ripple?

Yes. Replacing the tiny MLCCs with one 470 µF low-ESR cap (e.g., Panasonic NXH) cuts ripple sharply. Larger caps may help further, limited by ripple current rating [Elektroda, mkpl, post #17125841]

Quick 3-step fix for cleaner output?

  1. Desolder the two 22 µF 1206 MLCCs at Vout.
  2. Solder a 470 µF/16 V low-ESR electrolytic directly across Vout and GND.
  3. Retest ripple; expect >5× reduction [Elektroda, mkpl, post #17125841]

Is there any current limiting?

No active current limit exists. Exceeding 2 A or shorting the output can smoke the board, as several users observed [Elektroda, Urgon, post #17121867]

Why do users complain about the screw terminals?

Factory terminals have high contact resistance and weak solder joints. Wires detach after a few insertions; many users bypass them and solder leads directly [Elektroda, Urgon, post #17123318]

Safe to hang a large capacitor or battery on the output?

A large 4,700 µF cap or battery will back-drive the buck through the MP2307’s body diode. Add a series Schottky or MOSFET ideal-diode to block reverse current [Elektroda, wieswas, #17168746; MP2307 datasheet].

What input voltage should I really use?

Keep Vin ≤ 20 V. The MP2307’s absolute max is 23 V, but users report failures near that limit [Elektroda, TechEkspert, #17120828; Elektroda, mkpl, #17125841].

Can I recalibrate the voltage display?

Yes. Calibration constants live in the on-board STM8 firmware; a hidden menu allows trimming the reading without hardware mods [Elektroda, TechEkspert, post #17126256]

Edge-case: will it power a Raspberry Pi reliably?

Tests with a similar LCD-less version caused Pi brown-outs and lightning-bolt icons despite 5 A rating, due to ripple and dropouts [Elektroda, nici, post #17124228]
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