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Which ball valve control to choose for an alarm system?

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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • #31 18070600
    vwszeldon
    Level 10  
    Hello, I would like to join the topic because I also have a solenoid valve, but with 230V waste controlled by a relay, but in the event of a power failure - trouble, I control the output O3 low current, I was thinking of replacing it with a 4-wire 9-24V, 3-6 W, duration 10 seconds (power supply to the solenoid valve permanently and control is done by a second pair of wires without voltage) and somehow connect it to the power supply of the control panel, but I have no idea where to connect it. Neogsm control unit. Can it somehow be powered from the wires going to the battery there is 13.7V on them because I rather don't see where it could be powered(can it be?). The O1 and O2 12V 1 A outputs operate the beacon. The control would continue with output O3 but where would I get the power at the control panel to make it work in case of power failure?
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  • #32 18070974
    bhtom
    Level 38  
    Welcome,

    vwszeldon wrote:
    I have a solenoid valve only that from waste to 230v controlled by a relay but in case of power failure= trouble
    .

    Wouldn't it be sufficient to "plug in" in parallel to the solenoid valve an ordinary ball valve which would be opened manually in case of AC failure?

    Regards.
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  • #33 18071762
    vwszeldon
    Level 10  
    Well, yes. The only problem is when you are in the shower and there is no one to open the valve. That is why I am looking for a better solution😃. But with this valve it is not so good either, that it needs 2 minutes to load, because it may not close and there is trouble again. Although there are hardly ever short-circuits...rather during a storm.
  • #34 18095744
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #35 18095777
    Krzysztof Kamienski
    Level 43  
    Erbit wrote:
    What effect do pressure drops (valve closing/opening) have on the tightness of the water supply hoses to the taps?
    Not the best, due to hydrodynamic impacts. It is better to use a ball valve either with a 24 VDC motor and some sort of battery backup, or with a 220 VDC motor, as these valves have the possibility of manual opening - a knob.
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  • #36 18095785
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #37 18095792
    Krzysztof Kamienski
    Level 43  
    Erbit wrote:
    Is the daily closing and opening of the valve several times when arming / disarming the alarm intended to protect the house against flooding paradoxically the cause of flooding?
    Not in the case of a ball, motorised valve. It, unlike a solenoid, does not generate hydraulic hammer because it opens and closes slowly.
  • #38 18095977
    kortyleski
    Level 43  
    Flood sensors are an accessory, not a safeguard. There would have to be a lot of them and they will still detect water once renovation is needed.
  • #39 18097992
    vwszeldon
    Level 10  
    The sensors are not so bad. They can sense quickly, but they have to be close to the hoses, and in the bathroom if it pours on the tiles, it's okay. I have a yotogi sensor and 5 probes. They work expressly.
  • #40 18098034
    Anonymous
    Level 1  

Topic summary

The discussion focuses on selecting the appropriate ball valve control for integration with an alarm system to shut off water when armed and open it when disarmed. Two main valve control types are compared: two-point and three-point control. Three-point valves use one neutral (N) wire and two live (L) wires for opening and closing, drawing power only during state changes, which reduces continuous current consumption and heat generation. Two-point valves often draw current continuously in one position, leading to higher power dissipation and potential overheating. Solenoid valves, typically monostable NO or NC types, also draw current continuously when in one state, which can be inefficient and cause heating.

The preferred solution is a three-point ball valve with limit switches to provide feedback on valve position to the alarm control panel, enhancing reliability and enabling fault detection. Power supply considerations include using 12V DC valves powered independently from the alarm panel to avoid battery drain during power outages, or 230V AC valves with manual bypass valves for emergency water access. The importance of manual override in case of power failure is emphasized. Flood detectors integrated with the alarm system can provide additional protection by triggering valve closure upon water detection, with separate alarm zones and distinct reset codes.

The discussion also covers practical aspects such as valve sizing (e.g., 1¼ inch valves), power consumption (typically 7-12W during operation), and the trade-offs between complexity, reliability, and cost. Some users recommend simplifying the system to increase reliability, avoiding complex UPS or large battery setups. Examples of valves with 7-wire or 3-wire configurations and limit switches are mentioned, with links to commercial products. The final solution adopted by the original poster involves a 230V three-wire valve with limiters, controlled by the alarm panel, and a manual bypass valve for emergencies.

Additional points include the impact of valve operation on water supply hose integrity, with motorized ball valves preferred over solenoids to avoid hydraulic hammer. The discussion also touches on powering valves from alarm panel outputs, with caution advised to avoid overloading the panel battery. Overall, the consensus favors three-point controlled motorized ball valves with limit switches, powered independently, integrated with flood sensors and manual overrides for robust water shut-off in alarm systems.
Summary generated by the language model.
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