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How to choose a NC or NO water shut-off valve for the INTEGRA control panel?

chudy_b 8535 69
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  • #1 18811459
    chudy_b
    Level 20  
    Hello

    I am planning to install a water shut-off valve in a house. Valve closure triggered by flood sensors, control from INTEGRA control panel via INT-IORS. Which type of valve is better to use? NC or NO? With NC, during normal operation (no flooding), the coil must be powered all the time. No power = no water and the bypass has to be activated. On the other hand, my house will not be flooded when there is no power and a leak happens. With NO, I don't have to keep the coil powered up, but the system will not work when there is no power. What should I choose?
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  • #2 18811477
    prosiak_wej
    Level 39  
    Safety first principle - I would choose NC. After all, such a coil is not five kilowatts that will hit you in the pocket. And bypass is a matter of two elbows and a ball valve, so not billions of gold coins either.
  • #3 18811567
    chudy_b
    Level 20  
    I understand that all coils for NC valves are designed for continuous operation. Is there no risk of overheating? I don't have to pay attention to any special markings?
  • #4 18811944
    bhtom
    Level 38  
    Welcome,

    I understand that you are planning a coil for 230V AC and not 12V DC powered from the system...?

    Greetings.
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  • #5 18812080
    chudy_b
    Level 20  
    Yes, rather 230V. I don't want to overload the power supply of the alarm.
  • #6 18812099
    e-sparks
    Electrician specialist
    chudy_b wrote:
    What type of valve is better to use? NC , or NO?
    You do not need a valve, but a valve with actuator, 3 or 4 wire.
    As much as possible it can be for 12 volts, powered from the control panel, 3-6 watts is not a problem, especially as the current draw is only for max. 10 seconds, and closing the valve is a priority even before an alarm action.
    E.g. something like this:
    https://sklep.washservice.pl/elektrozawor-kulowy-5-4-cala-z-silownikiem-a80.html
  • #7 18812144
    chudy_b
    Level 20  
    e-sparks wrote:
    You do not need a valve, but a valve with actuator, 3 or 4 wire.
    .

    And could you elaborate a little on the subject. Justify it somehow? I haven't delved into the control yet, but there's probably a separate power supply and a separate control cable. It won't work either way on a power loss unless it's actually wired to the alarm and pulls on the battery. Which just happens to be no problem with a short run time.
  • #8 18812187
    Grzegorz_madera
    Level 38  
    This valve closes for a maximum of 30 seconds, so you only need energy from the control panel battery.
  • #9 18812223
    Aleksander_01
    Level 43  
    chudy_b wrote:
    With NC in normal operation (no flooding) the coil must be energised at all times. No power = no water and the bypass has to be switched on. On the other hand, it will not flood my house when there is no power and a leak happens. With NO, I don't have to power the coil all the time, but the system won't work if there is no power. What should I choose?
    .
    After all, by giving NO and NC valves mounted in series your problem ceases to exist. Strange that no one has come up with such a trivial solution before.
  • #10 18812310
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist
    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    After all, by giving NO and NC valves mounted in series your problem ceases to exist.


    Can a colleague elaborate on this thought? Which problem ceases to exist?
  • #11 18812358
    PROXIMA sj

    Radio controllers specialist
    If you want to build a system on Satel, the obvious solution is a wired ball valve controlled by a 12V electric motor, e.g. as shown by e-sparks.
    I also recommend watching how a motorised ball valve works, e.g. in a PROXIMA radio anti-flooding system.
    There are several videos on Youtube on this subject
    E.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUZABwK5w_k
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDJFGNCYboY
    Regards
    PROXIMILIAN
  • #12 18812403
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    kood wrote:
    Can a colleague elaborate on this thought? which problem ceases to exist?
    (Subject author) No water, no problem ;) :) .
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  • #13 18812457
    PROXIMA sj

    Radio controllers specialist
    You are pastoring a colleague wittily....
    And for what?
    P.
  • #14 18812520
    Aleksander_01
    Level 43  
    You are afraid of being flooded if there is no power, this is how I understood your question in the first post. Using NC and NO valves connected in series, the water will be automatically cut off in the event of power failure. Is this so difficult to understand? If you still do not understand I am willing to draw a wiring diagram with a comprehensive commentary on how the circuit works.
  • #15 18812549
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist
    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    Using NC and NO valves connected in series in the absence of power will automatically cut off the water. Is this so hard to understand ? If you still don't understand I am willing to draw a wiring diagram with a comprehensive commentary on how the circuit works.
    .

    And wouldn't it be the same with just an NC valve?

    Other than that, it's more a case of making sure that the lack of power doesn't affect the water in the building, and that in the absence of power the system works.
  • #16 18812559
    chudy_b
    Level 20  
    PROXIMA sj wrote:
    You are wittingly over a colleague...


    I hope this is not about me. I'm immune to that kind of electrode vibe.


    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    You're worried about being flooded if there's no electricity, that's how I understood your query in the first post.


    If you are referring to my first post, I am referring to finding the better of two solutions. Not the more stupid solution. You admit that fitting two valves in series in a domestic non-industrial installation is silly, right? And the discussion of whether it will work is purely academic and not needed in this topic.

    A ball valve with separate control of each direction is interesting. I will certainly consider it.
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  • #17 18812564
    Aleksander_01
    Level 43  
    chudy_b wrote:
    Hello

    I am planning to install a water shut-off valve at home.
    .
    Since the author is at home non-stop he can always turn off the water with the valve, and the automation is useful when the house is "unattended", and then whether there is electricity or not it is certain that the house will not flood.
  • #18 18812602
    bhtom
    Level 38  
    Welcome,

    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    Using NC and NO valves connected in series in the absence of power will automatically shut off the water.
    .

    After all, with this solution the water will never flow.... Well, unless I don't understand something....

    Greetings.
  • #19 18812609
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    chudy_b wrote:
    I hope this is not about me. I am immune to this type of electrode climate.
    This is about colleague Alexander.
    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    Using NC and NO valves connected in series in the absence of current there will be an automatic water shut-off.
    With one NC valve there will also be an automatic shut-off as correctly noted by colleague kood.
    bhtom wrote:
    After all, with this arrangement the water will never flow....
    And correctly. I wrote earlier that when the subject author has no water then there is also no problem whether it will flood or not. ;)
  • #20 18812643
    Aleksander_01
    Level 43  
    bhtom wrote:
    .

    After all, with this solution the water will never flow.... Well, unless I don't understand something....

    Greetings.

    Indeed, that NO at all unnecessary here, I've been overthinking something. :cry: .
    But I was overshadowed, and after all I wasn't drinking, sorry.
    The NO valve is unnecessary, but the water will flow, after all, it does not have to be controlled.
  • Helpful post
    #21 18812664
    adversus
    Level 32  
    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    Using NC and NO valves connected in series in the event of a power failure will automatically cut off the water. Is this so hard to understand ?
    .

    Firstly 2 valves and the price goes up times 2. Pointless complication, and it takes energy all the time. It's not a mobile phone charger that draws 0.5W only a few or even a dozen watts.

    Give your colleagues a break with all kinds of NO and NC valves. Only a valve with an electric actuator (closes and opens). It has all the advantages over NO and NC:
    - draws power only during operation (depending on the model 10-30s),
    - can be switched on and off manually
    - does not heat up (all valves with a solenoid heat up a lot, unfortunately)
    - very low operating costs in contrast to NO and NC (such valves consume at least 5-10W, which, when converted into consumption per year of operation, already gives measurable zlotys)

    Valves with an actuator have AC and DC power supply, and are available at various voltages, i.e. 12V, 24V and 230V. In general, there is a wide range to choose from. Control is also quite simple because the valves have limiters, so they stop by themselves in the closed or open position.
    When I install them with an alarm system, I set them so that when the system is completely on (no one is home) or the flood sensor is triggered, the valve closes the water. Simple and effective NC and NO valves are not used because they have too many disadvantages.
    Examples of valves that I have been using successfully for years:
    https://allegro.pl/oferta/elektrozawor-kulowy-1-2-230-v-dn15-silownik-230v-1-8879380379
    https://allegro.pl/oferta/elektrozawor-kulowy-z-silownikiem-naped-dn15-9288771593
  • #22 18812669
    chudy_b
    Level 20  
    bhtom wrote:
    After all, with this solution the water will never flow.... Well, unless I don't understand something....
    .

    Well dookay:-) You want to drone on about it, let's drone on about it.

    The water will flow. As long as we control these valves properly. NO unpowered, NC powered and water flows. Alarm - one changes state and water cut off. NO power - NC closes, house cut off and bypass has to be turned.... Hmmm... why NO then? It occurs to me that it is useless in such a configuration.
  • #23 18812694
    Aleksander_01
    Level 43  
    At my mother's house, water enters the basement. I dealt with it this way - I dug a hole about 70 cm deep, a hole about 50x50 cm. I put an ordinary float-operated pump into this hole. It's been quiet for some years now. I directed the water from the pump into the sewage system. Advantages - simplicity, cheap, reliable. I also have a new house from 2013 and all I have of these 'water trinkets' is a pressure regulator and a 10-inch filter.
    And by the way, what people don't invent.
  • #24 18812710
    adversus
    Level 32  
    Aleksander_01 wrote:
    At my mum's house, water enters the basement. I dealt with it like this - I dug a hole about 70 cm deep, a hole about 50x50 cm. I put an ordinary float-operated pump into this hole. It's been quiet for some years now. I directed the water from the pump into the sewage system. Advantages - simplicity, cheap, reliable. I also have a new house from 2013 and all I have of these 'water trinkets' is a pressure regulator and a 10-inch filter.
    And by the way, what people don't invent.


    How does this relate to the topic ??? We're not talking about water in the basement just flood protection. By the way, in this 2013 house you will also be putting in a shut-off valve after the first flooding from a faulty toilet hose or sink/sink tap.

    Another disadvantage of NO and NC valves is that, unfortunately, not all of them are designed for continuous operation (precisely because of the heating of the coil) and it is worth to read in the technical data what is given as the time of operation and break in order not to damage the valve.
  • #25 18812751
    Aleksander_01
    Level 43  
    adversus wrote:
    By the way, in this 2013 house you will also be putting in a shut-off valve after the first flood from a faulty toilet hose or sink/sink tap.

    .
    So far nothing like this has happened in my mum's house (built in 60 years), I lived in a block of flats for 16 years nothing has broken either for me or my neighbours either, but.....when replacing the valve for the cistern the hose disintegrated in my hands and nothing dripped when pressurised.
    It's just the mines that annoy me. You actually have to think about these 'mines'.
  • #26 18812791
    chudy_b
    Level 20  
    adversus wrote:
    Another disadvantage of NO and NC valves is that, unfortunately, they are not all designed for continuous operation (precisely because of coil heating)
    .

    And yet. Something felt it wasn't that simple.

    adversus wrote:
    after the first flooding from a faulty wc hose or sink/sink faucet you will also be putting on a shut-off valve.
    .

    I first distributed the alarm wiring by routing the wires out to the flood detectors. And then I assembled almost all the faucets flush-mounted. There is no danger of flooding from the Geberits either, because the hose is inside the reservoir. However, some spots with hoses on top remain. So I will see the project through to the end. A fitter friend told me that a hose burst on his customer's holiday. Water poured into the basement and filled it up to the ceiling.
  • #27 18825787
    tmf
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    chudy_b wrote:
    And yet. Something felt like it wasn't that simple.
    .
    A matter of valve selection. Besides, the current needed to turn it on is much greater than the current needed to sustain it. Therefore, it is sufficient to give a nominal current pulse at the beginning that will turn the solenoid valve on, and then reduce the current so as to sustain the on state. This will have the effect of reducing the power and any heating of the solenoid. Also note whether the valve is suitable for DC power - if not, it may heat up when DC power is applied. In my opinion an NC valve is better - something goes wrong (e.g. no power) then the valve is in a safe, closed position.
    adversus wrote:
    Only valve with electric actuator (closes and opens). It has the same advantages over NO and NC
    .
    Yes, it's just that such a valve with an actuator will not close without external automation. And the author is concerned with adding protection, not the ability to control the flow....
  • #28 18825862
    adversus
    Level 32  
    tmf wrote:
    A question of valve selection. Besides, the current needed to turn it on is much greater than the current needed to hold it on. Therefore, it is sufficient to give a nominal current pulse at the beginning that will turn the solenoid valve on, and then reduce the current so as to sustain the on state. This will have the effect of reducing the power and any heating of the solenoid. Also note whether the valve is suitable for DC power - if not, it may heat up when DC power is applied. In my opinion an NC valve is better - something goes wrong (e.g. no power) then the valve is in a safe, closed position.


    Of course you have to select the valve, but price also plays an important role, and in the case of a DC or AC valve it will always only heat more or less, which is why the manufacturer always informs you of the maximum operating time in the on position.
    The fact that it heats up when the voltage is lowered (yes, less, but always) is normal, I know, because I have dealt with this problem more than once, because somewhere these few watts of power have to be lost. Another issue is why to heat the air and waste energy pointlessly, and the complication of a system triggering the valve to work with reduced voltage, which in the case of AC is already quite difficult to implement.
    In the case of a valve with a motor, it has limit switches, so in the simplest case, a relay switching the direction of operation is enough (1 output in the control panel)


    chudy_b wrote:
    I plan to install a water shut-off valve in a house. Valve closure triggered by flood sensors, control from INTEGRA control panel via INT-IORS. Which type of valve is better to use?
    .

    tmf wrote:
    Yes, it's just that such a valve with an actuator will not close without external automation. And the author is concerned with adding protection, not the ability to control the flow...
    .

    The author of the topic has a control unit which takes care of the automation function for the valve with the motor, so this argument is pointless, especially as it is possible to implement automatic water shut-off when no one is home (even greater minimisation of the risk of flooding).

    chudy_b wrote:
    And yet. Something felt like it wasn't that simple.
    Generally

    Having an Integra this is quite simple to implement, I described it a few posts above how it works when I install such protection for customers.
  • #29 18825955
    tmf
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    adversus wrote:
    Of course you have to choose the valve, but price also plays an important role, and in the case of a DC or AC valve it will only ever heat up more or less, which is why the manufacturer always informs you of the maximum operating time in the on position.
    .
    Usually the current required for sustaining is many times lower, so correspondingly the losses will also be lower. Alternatively, you could use bistable valves, which only require a current pulse to change state, but do not require power to maintain state. However, IMHO such a solution undermines the author's main objective - protection. As for the price - you have to reckon with the cost anyway - packing cheap components, unsuitable for the operating conditions, as protection, not only does not protect anything, but even increases the risk,.
    adversus wrote:
    tmf wrote:
    Yes, it's just that such a valve with an actuator will not close without external automation. And the author is referring to adding a safety device, not the ability to control the flow....



    The author of the topic has a control unit which takes care of the automatic function of the valve with the motor, so this argument is pointless, especially as it is possible to implement automatic water shut-off when no one is home (even greater minimisation of the risk of flooding).
    .

    You can, but IMHO the protection should be as faultless as possible. An NC valve in the absence of control will simply close, cutting off the flow. The valve with actuator will stay in its current position - i.e. nothing will be protected. Relying on the alarm system to correctly control such a valve is, in my opinion, a mistake. See, for example, dishwashers - there the shut-off valve is not controlled by the dishwasher electronics either, but a simple hose failure protection is used.
    The author mentions in the first post that the valve is to be controlled by flood sensors - I would focus on the implementation of this as it is not trivial.
  • #30 18826030
    kood
    CCTV and Stationary Alarms specialist
    tmf wrote:
    Relying on the alarm system to correctly control such a valve is, in my opinion, a mistake.


    Can a colleague justify this somehow? Because with such a solution I would be more concerned about the quality of the valve itself or its location (I had a situation where a pipe shot out in front of the solenoid valve and water filled the basement).

    tmf wrote:
    that the valve is to be controlled by flooding sensors - I would focus on achieving this goal, as it is not trivial.
    .

    On the Integra it is quite simple, dedicated sensors connected to the control panel, the valve connected to a suitably programmed output, and I make deletion of signalling on this output with a separate password so that the user consciously deletes it and not by accident.

Topic summary

The discussion focuses on selecting the appropriate water shut-off valve type (Normally Closed - NC or Normally Open - NO) for integration with the INTEGRA control panel via the INT-IORS module, triggered by flood sensors. NC valves are favored for safety since they close automatically on power loss, preventing flooding, but require continuous power and may need a bypass for manual water supply during outages. NO valves do not consume power continuously but fail to close without power, risking flooding. An alternative recommended solution is a ball valve with an electric actuator, powered typically at 12V, which only consumes power during valve operation (opening/closing), supports manual override, and reduces energy consumption and coil heating issues common in solenoid valves. The actuator valves often include limit switches for position feedback, enabling the control panel to verify valve status and notify users of faults. Regular cycling of the valve is advised to prevent mechanical sticking. The INTEGRA system can be programmed to manage valve control, including battery-backed operation during power failures and user notifications. Valve selection must consider continuous operation capability, power consumption, manual bypass needs, and suitability for potable water. Various valve types and configurations (3, 4, or 7-wire actuators) are discussed, with emphasis on reliability, cost, and integration complexity. Practical experience highlights the importance of valve quality, installation location, and system design to ensure fail-safe flood protection in residential settings.
Summary generated by the language model.
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