FLOCK, electric grass planter

In my time, grass was made of sawdust painted green with a poster ... (after "planting" of course).
There was also a nice way to make cobblestones, bricks, etc. surfaces - you put a piece of tulle on an element with a texture (white or gray-brown depending on your needs) and painted it with a poster (you also have to choose the color depending on your requirements). on the surface with a brush so that the tulle does not wrinkle and sticks evenly to the substrate. After painting, one waited a while and ... the tulle was torn off, leaving the paint to dry. Better than any other patent, but it took practice.
This is about modeling (and therefore indirectly planting grass) ...
Coming back to the point: I hope that the tile, after being washed from flux remnants, is painted with insulating varnish on the print side? In a similar way (voltage multiplier) I used to make a power supply for a school laser. After some time without the varnish, there were beautiful short circuits / punctures on the laminate surface ... the voltage was "slightly" higher there, but ... it's better to be safe than sorry?

Maybe a colleague describe what the WN generator has for grass in modeling? Because not everyone is so interested in it and there is no movie / description.

I suggest you read about the Flock technique.
This weed is a textile shearing. It is applied by means of an electric field to a surface covered with an adhesive.
The fibers are attracted and electrified, they elegantly protrude like real grass. (Photos are weak, because the length of my hair is 2.5mm)

The photo shows the prototype, in the device the board ends with the transformer, and the multiplier is separate, in a long spider, so that nothing touches the tips unnecessarily and is covered with varnish.

During the tests, there was also a 10-degree duplicator, but it was already shooting between the tips of the elements and the edge of the plate. Anyway, single kV is enough to obtain a suitable field for "planting" weed.

This is first about security, secondly:
There is no need to overdo the voltage if we power the device from the AC adapter.
Such a power supply also has a finite isolation between the primary and secondary sides, which is very easy to break when playing with LV. I prefer not to think about what might happen.

Can I ask for a diagram out of curiosity?
I do not have much in common with modeling that does not fly, but it occurred to me whether this type of device is not suitable for powder coating.

Please

Maybe for this particular 555 application it is irrelevant but a decoupling capacitor between pin 5 and ground is recommended.

Yes, input 5 should go through the capacitor to ground.
It does not really matter here, at most the parameters will float a little.
In some 555s you do not need to connect the 4, because it is pulled up inside to the plus, and some will not move without the plus on the 4 tip, such a curiosity.

Justyniunia wrote:

In some 555s you do not need to connect 4, because it is pulled up inside to the plus

Oh look! I have never found one like this and the 555 is such a universal system that I always have a dozen new ones in stock (THT and SMD from different manufacturers).

Once, while making a colleague's board, I forgot to connect 4 to vcc on the PCB, he noticed this error, but it turned out that the system worked without any problems. He was also not sensitive to touching the 4th finger or trying to stick his finger to the gnd. I suspect some production error (as it used to be in Atmega8), or there are indeed different versions.

Justyniunia wrote:

I came up with my own little garden, so I decrease sometimes 87 times to the H0 scale

I am curious what this garden looks like . I would like to play in H0 or something similar, but the area of the premises does not allow .

Justyniunia wrote:

He was also not sensitive to touching the 4th finger or trying to stick his finger to the gnd. I suspect some error during production (as it used to be in Atmega8)

Maybe it was the CMOS version and the ESD diode on the input was "beaten"?

ArturAVS wrote:

I would like to play in H0 or something similar, but the area of the premises does not allow

Then you can choose between TT and N. I started to play with HO, then (for housing reasons) I switched to TT until ... and I cured myself from spending money on something that only gave me fun.

I live in a block of flats, I wanted a TT, but look at the geometrical layouts of TT and H0 tracks.
TT Tillig is a crazy dream.

Exit a parallel track from a turnout in the TT and H0 systems:



Fortunately, someone has long ago invented modular models.
Today, the mock-up is not one big plate that has nowhere to put in an apartment.
The mock-up I want to build for my son will consist of three modules. Two station heads and a central section (6 parallel tracks).
For this, a trail will be attached to both ends.
After disassembling the station into 3 parts, everything will fit under the bed.


For now, we are completing the materials, and to add a little flavor - this is how the track layout of one of the heads will look like.



And here is the whole 2.5m long station (if nothing changes):



And in TT there is not as much PKP rolling stock as in H0





And here is the best combination of modeling and electronics





https://youtu.be/WvooFKmj0i0

https://youtu.be/kiMlWLpFuUw

Justyniunia wrote:

There is not as much PKP rolling stock in TT as in H0

One of the reasons I switched to the TT was the lack of a HO selection. And the price ... all of this resulted in the choice of the TT. N'ka was just a misunderstanding ... It's just that then the only source of obtaining rolling stock and tracks (not to mention the buildings) was CSH ... Now it is much easier to make a choice taking into account your own preferences than to be "doomed" to what is ...

A few years ago, with the help of one colleague from Poland, Piko produced the ST43 locomotive, it spread like hot cakes, today there are several, if not several, models of PKP locomotives in Piko's offer. Unfortunately, you still have to drive in the TT under the DR or DB flag.
There are one or two models from PKP 1: 120.

The second thing is the smaller the scale, the bigger compromises you have to make by building anything yourself.

Prices are similar (TT a bit more expensive), N is the cheapest, but switches and couplers look tragic, typical toy.

My friend Zdzich offers a variety of model making, which he produces himself:
http://hulacki.com/sklepmodelarski/10-modele-kolejowe-h0
Take a look, maybe you will like something from the offer, and the purchase of time-consuming trinkets - results in faster completion of the mock-up.

The semaphore in the photo is probably even from Zdzich

Hello.
Thank you, I know the products, hmm.
Maybe yes:
On the right a semaphore in H0, on the left Hulacki ...



You can choose from:
Minikol - 3mm diodes stuck in a piece of metal plate
Hulacki - 3mm LEDs stuck in a piece of plastic with a ladder
Ostbahn - Signs for self-construction of a semaphore with SMD 0603 LEDs (about PLN 20, I buy these)
Kluba - ready-made semaphores made of metal plates, the most realistic, but the price is> 100 PLN and the waiting time is several months.

The order is not accidental.

This is what the Ostbahn dwarf maneuvering disc looks like when folded.
The price is PLN 8 and a half hour of fun.

There is no better alternative in terms of price and quality.

It's good that there is such a choice.
A colleague designs these models himself, including molds for injection molding machines (I service the controllers, because some machines are quite old), so he chooses a compromise between the ideal and the technical capabilities of his machinery and / or the amount of work.

There is such a thing in life; A perfectionist will not buy anything, because in his opinion each product has a hundred errors and he will "do it himself" and the modeller will buy what he thinks is appropriate, profitable or for another reason known to him.

Electrostatically "putting" grass is a really good way to get realistic grass; I first read about it thirty years ago, when this method was used in a movie (I can't remember the title) to create landscape models.
Now you can watch instructional videos on YT:
https://youtu.be/8FWCD_MMD_M?t=427

Of course, each product has its own market and that's fine.
There are many people among modelers who have no idea about electronics, for them assembling the semaphore by themselves is a piece of cake, but making it shine is black magic, and the kit comes with 0603 LEDs, no wires, nothing. I make LED plates and resistors for semaphores, e.g.

We sow the grass with a seeder. We plant with a planter. Trolls, let me remind you that we solder with a soldering iron and weld with a welder.
Plus, this planter is pretty cool.

This grass is already "grown", so it is planted
And because it is sifted through a sieve ... It's hard to define.
"Elektrosadzarka" is the author's name.
Someone invented it once and it has been functioning for a few years.

And the topic about sowing with an electric planter ...

Because it is an electronic forum, not an agricultural forum :P

As if there was "planting grass", a purebred troll would write that grass was not planted.
Such clinging for the sake of clinging, and there is nobody to do ...
It's yourself I sow with an electric plant .

Coming back.
- If the voltage is too high, the grass flies out of the filter in all directions.
- WN polarization has no meaning.
- The best effect (as in factory machines) is when the grass is between the electrodes. The tension is not on the strainer, but behind it.