Some time ago I purchased a Wemos ESP2866 module to use as a wireless controller for a WS2812b led strip. . After soldering the goldpins I connected it to the computer. Smoke went up. I quickly unplugged the unit, but noticed no damage (apart from a stain near the orange capacitor). I changed...

. I don't think the board is defective from the factory ! It is very possible that it was damaged when soldering the pins. There is a G pin next to the burnt capacitor and perhaps something was overheated or a 'local' excess of tin caused a short circuit . This is not a criticism of soldering skills, but some details can be overlooked in these miniature devices working with a soldering iron without a large(!) magnifying glass. The second issue is the level converter. During my tests, I did not use any voltage level converters between D1mini and WS2812B (more or less the same configuration) . The 3.3V high state from the ESP is sufficiently recognised by the WS2812B in its 5-Volt logic, The only thing extra I used was a swapped 5V (5A) power supply for the 51 diode strip of the WS and of course a 470 ohms resistor on the Data line from D1mini to the WS. e marcus

. If the cable was previously used and in good working order, it is more likely that the USB socket on the board was already tref. . I haven't come across these types of modules. . It was enough that the first WS2812B on the MCU side was working correctly i.e. its DIN input was working correctly with 3V3 logic. DIN and DINOUT are not directly connected to each other in a given WS2812B circuit.

How is the ESP board powered? I am referring to the positive pole of the voltage. According to your drawing, it is fed from the level converter board, not from the power supply. Also, if I'm not mistaken, you didn't connect +5V from the converter to the Vin of the ESP board only to, depending on whether the board is shown from the side as in the picture or the other side, to D0 or A0. The Vin is near the USB port.

Something more about this level converter and the power supply, will you write ?

. Not exactly a successful inspiration. The VIN in Wemos is the power input before the stabiliser on the board and certainly should not be connected to the 5V pin of the level converter - in such a configuration this converter will not work. You should use the 5V output from the Wemos board for this, but not all models of this board have this pin out. In this situation, the 5V pin of the level converter is connected directly to the +5V supply. If you are simultaneously connecting power to the Wemos via USB, it is safest to forget about using the VIN pin. It is possible that you have stoned the AMS1117 stabiliser.

. The board was powered by a microusb. Although I also suspect some problem with the cable because on the first one (the one I used when the smoke first went) the module was not detected in the device manager. Although I find it hard to believe that a faulty cable would cause such damage. The vin was supposed to be a 5v source for the logic converter, as I read that it can be either a power source for the board (but you can't use it as a source at the same time as connecting it via usb) or as a source of voltage for the components connected to the board (provided the current requirement is within esp capabilities) The damage I noticed first: the square element marked AB1742 where the indentation in the pictures is visible in my case is an exposed leg. You could feel the components heating up strongly near the 3.3v outputs Then the orange capacitor was burnt.

. I guess it also depends on the particular unit. According to the WS2812B note: . The minimum V IH is 0.7V DD , which on a 5V supply gives 3.5V, so it's not so sure. I'm not saying it won't work without a converter, but I'd rather suggest using one - the cost is small.

I have read that without a logic converter there are voltage fluctuations which cause flickering so I figured since I have a converter there is no reason not to use it. However, going back to my initial question, could the cable have damaged the board when first connected? For future reference I will avoid using the VIN as this may have caused additional problems.What would be a better alternative to such a board? Are there perhaps some based on the ESP8266 but having 5v logic on the pins, like the arduino nano?

Thank you for your help and comments, topic altogether to be closed.

. Exactly!!! The trick described has worked reliably for me for several years now

Wemos ESP2866 Burnt When Connecting WS2812b LED Strip

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#1 19531031 21 Jul 2021 21:25

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19531031 21 Jul 2021 21:25

Some time ago I purchased a Wemos ESP2866 module to use as a wireless controller for a WS2812b led strip.
.

After soldering the goldpins I connected it to the computer. Smoke went up. I quickly unplugged the unit, but noticed no damage (apart from a stain near the orange capacitor). I changed the cable, reconnected it to the computer.

I managed to upload the WLED software. That is, by this point the board was relatively functional. I proceeded with the next part. I tried to connect to the WLED but was unable to, the board was going out. The hub has an auxiliary power supply, so I decided to switch to the charger from the phone. Connection diagram below inspired by what I found on the WLED website (https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki)

Shortly after connecting, the board died on the amen. Heavily heated, the miniusb port pulled out of the board when trying to disconnect. I am unable to verify if it is still bootable.

Photo of the damaged board

What went wrong? Is a manufacturing defect to blame? Or did I make a mistake later and "hit" the board when connecting to the power supply and led strip? If I did something wrong, I would like to avoid the same mistake in the future
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#2 19531085 21 Jul 2021 21:54

Grzegorz Markowski Grzegorz Markowski

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19531085 21 Jul 2021 21:54

How is the ESP board powered? I am referring to the positive pole of the voltage. According to your drawing, it is fed from the level converter board, not from the power supply.
Also, if I'm not mistaken, you didn't connect +5V from the converter to the Vin of the ESP board only to, depending on whether the board is shown from the side as in the picture or the other side, to D0 or A0. The Vin is near the USB port.
#3 19531190 21 Jul 2021 22:56

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19531190 21 Jul 2021 22:56

Something more about this level converter and the power supply, will you write ?
#4 19531215 21 Jul 2021 23:28

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19531215 21 Jul 2021 23:28

PaintedMan wrote:
Connection diagram below inspired by what I found on the WLED website (https://github.com/Aircoookie/WLED/wiki)
.
Not exactly a successful inspiration. The VIN in Wemos is the power input before the stabiliser on the board and certainly should not be connected to the "5V" pin of the level converter - in such a configuration this converter will not work. You should use the "5V" output from the Wemos board for this, but not all models of this board have this pin out. In this situation, the "5V" pin of the level converter is connected directly to the +5V supply.

If you are simultaneously connecting power to the Wemos via USB, it is safest to forget about using the VIN pin. It is possible that you have stoned the AMS1117 stabiliser.
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#5 19531857 22 Jul 2021 14:17

PaintedMan PaintedMan

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19531857 22 Jul 2021 14:17

Grzegorz Markowski wrote:
How is the ESP board powered? I am referring to the positive pole of the voltage. According to your drawing, it is fed from the level converter board, not from the power supply.
Also, if I'm not mistaken, you didn't connect +5V from the converter to the Vin of the ESP board only to, depending on whether the board is shown from the side as in the picture or from the other side, to D0 or A0. The Vin is near the USB port.
.

The board was powered by a microusb. Although I also suspect some problem with the cable because on the first one (the one I used when the smoke first went) the module was not detected in the device manager. Although I find it hard to believe that a faulty cable would cause such damage.

The vin was supposed to be a 5v source for the logic converter, as I read that it can be either a power source for the board (but you can't use it as a source at the same time as connecting it via usb) or as a source of voltage for the components connected to the board (provided the current requirement is within esp capabilities)

The damage I noticed first: the square element marked AB1742 where the indentation in the pictures is visible in my case is an exposed leg. You could feel the components heating up strongly near the 3.3v outputs Then the orange capacitor was burnt.
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#6 19532153 22 Jul 2021 18:10

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19532153 22 Jul 2021 18:10

PaintedMan wrote:
Some time ago I purchased a Wemos ESP2866 module to use as a wireless controller for the WS2812b led strip.
..........
After soldering the goldpins I connected it to the computer. Smoke went up.
What went wrong? Is a manufacturing defect to blame? Or did I make a mistake later and "hit" the board when connecting to the power supply and led tape? If I did something wrong, I would like to avoid the same mistake in the future
.

I don't think the board is defective from the factory !
It is very possible that it was damaged when soldering the pins. There is a G pin next to the burnt capacitor and perhaps something was overheated or a 'local' excess of tin caused a short circuit .
This is not a criticism of soldering skills, but some details can be overlooked in these miniature devices working with a soldering iron without a large(!) magnifying glass.
The second issue is the level converter. During my tests, I did not use any voltage level converters between D1mini and WS2812B (more or less the same configuration) . The 3.3V high state from the ESP is sufficiently recognised by the WS2812B in its 5-Volt logic, The only thing extra I used was a swapped 5V (5A) power supply for the 51 diode strip of the WS and of course a 470 ohms resistor on the Data line from D1mini to the WS.

e marcus
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#7 19532163 22 Jul 2021 18:22

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19532163 22 Jul 2021 18:22

emarcus wrote:
The 3.3V high state from the ESP is sufficiently recognised by the WS2812B in its 5-Volt logic
.
I guess it also depends on the particular unit. According to the WS2812B note:

.

The minimum V IH is 0.7V DD , which on a 5V supply gives 3.5V, so it's not so sure. I'm not saying it won't work without a converter, but I'd rather suggest using one - the cost is small.
#8 19532222 22 Jul 2021 19:03

PaintedMan PaintedMan

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19532222 22 Jul 2021 19:03

I have read that without a logic converter there are voltage fluctuations which cause flickering so I figured since I have a converter there is no reason not to use it. However, going back to my initial question, could the cable have damaged the board when first connected? For future reference I will avoid using the VIN as this may have caused additional problems.

What would be a better alternative to such a board? Are there perhaps some based on the ESP8266 but having 5v logic on the pins, like the arduino nano?
#9 19532249 22 Jul 2021 19:23

Anonymous Anonymous

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19532249 22 Jul 2021 19:23

khoam wrote:

emarcus wrote:
.
I guess it also depends on the specific copy. According to the WS2812B note:

Minimum V IH is 0.7V DD , which, with a 5V supply, gives 3.5V, so not so sure.
.
Apparently I have come across 'super' copies (all 60 in the strip) !
I guess intuitively they recognised my need, or maybe Vdd wasn't full 5V (?); I didn't measure!
Nevertheless, they all work in this configuration (which is an established fact), so there was no need to launch an 'investigation'., with an allegation/suspicion of 'why do they work'?
Naturally, financial considerations were not a consideration either.

e marcus
.
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#10 19532365 22 Jul 2021 20:44

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19532365 22 Jul 2021 20:44

PaintedMan wrote:
could the cable have damaged the board when first plugged in?
.
If the cable was previously used and in good working order, it is more likely that the USB socket on the board was already "tref".

PaintedMan wrote:
Are there perhaps some based on ESP2866 but having 5v logic on the pins, like the arduino nano?
.
I haven't come across these types of modules.

emarcus wrote:
I apparently came across 'super' copies (all 60 in the strip) !.
.
It was enough that the first WS2812B on the MCU side was working correctly i.e. its DIN input was working correctly with 3V3 logic. DIN and DINOUT are not directly connected to each other in a given WS2812B circuit.
#11 19532398 22 Jul 2021 21:08

PaintedMan PaintedMan

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19532398 22 Jul 2021 21:08

Thank you for your help and comments, topic altogether to be closed.
#12 19532711 23 Jul 2021 07:51

starob starob

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19532711 23 Jul 2021 07:51

khoam wrote:
It was sufficient that the first WS2812B on the MCU side worked correctly i.e. its DIN input worked correctly with 3V3 logic. DIN and DINOUT are not directly connected to each other in a given WS2812B circuit.
.
Exactly!!!
The trick described https://hackaday.com/2017/01/20/cheating-at-5v-ws2812-control-to-use-a-3-3v-data-line/ has worked reliably for me for several years now
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a Wemos ESP2866 module that experienced damage when connected to a WS2812b LED strip. The user reported smoke and overheating, particularly near the orange capacitor and a component marked AB1742. Responses highlighted potential issues with power connections, particularly the use of the VIN pin and the importance of proper voltage levels when interfacing with the WS2812b. Suggestions included avoiding the VIN pin when using USB power and ensuring correct connections to prevent damage. The conversation also touched on the use of logic level converters and the possibility of using alternative boards with 5V logic levels for better compatibility.
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Wemos ESP2866 Burnt When Connecting WS2812b LED Strip

FAQ

TL;DR: WS2812B expects ~0.7×VDD HIGH (≈3.5 V at 5 V), and “the minimum VIH is 0.7VDD.” Miswiring VIN/level shifters or powering via USB and VIN together can fry the regulator. This FAQ helps ESP8266/WLED users wire WS2812B safely and avoid burnouts. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19532163]

Why it matters: A small wiring mistake can smoke the LDO, rip off the USB port, and kill your strip controller.

Quick Facts

Do not feed a level shifter from Wemos VIN; tie it to the 5 V rail instead. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19531215]
WS2812B VIH ≥ 0.7×VDD (≈3.5 V at 5 V); 3.3 V is marginal without help. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19532163]
Working report: 51 LEDs, 470 Ω data resistor, 5 V/5 A PSU, no shifter. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19532153]
Avoid USB and VIN at the same time; the AMS1117 regulator can overheat or fail. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19531215]
First-power smoke often traces to a solder bridge near GND or overheated parts. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19532153]

What likely burned on my Wemos when the strip was connected?

The onboard AMS1117 linear regulator is a prime suspect. It can overheat if VIN is misused or when USB and VIN are both powered. “It is safest to forget about using the VIN pin” when on USB. Replace the board or regulator if damaged. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19531215]

Can a bad USB cable burn an ESP8266 board?

Unlikely. If the cable previously worked, a faulty or loose USB socket on the board is a more probable cause. Heat and stress can worsen a weak connector. Inspect or replace the board-side socket before blaming the cable. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19532365]

How should I power a Wemos and a level shifter safely?

Power the Wemos via USB or a proper 5 V pin, not VIN when on USB. Feed the level shifter’s 5 V pin from the +5 V rail. “VIN should not be connected to the ‘5V’ pin of the level converter.” Share grounds between all devices. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19531215]

Should I use the VIN pin if I also power via USB?

No. Do not use VIN when USB is connected. This can stress the AMS1117 and cause failure. The safest approach is a single power path during operation or testing. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19531215]

Do I really need a level shifter for WS2812B with ESP8266?

According to the WS2812B note, the input HIGH is 0.7×VDD, about 3.5 V at 5 V. 3.3 V logic is marginal. “The minimum VIH is 0.7VDD.” A level shifter improves reliability and reduces flicker risk. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19532163]

Can WS2812B work from ESP8266 without a level shifter?

Yes, it can, depending on the strip. One user ran 51 LEDs from a D1 mini using a 470 Ω data resistor and a 5 V/5 A supply. Performance varies by batch and wiring quality. Test carefully. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19532153]

Where should I connect the level shifter’s 5 V pin?

Connect it directly to the +5 V supply rail. Do not use Wemos VIN for this. If your board exposes a 5 V output pin, you may use that instead. This ensures proper shifter operation. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19531215]

Why did my USB port rip off when unplugging?

Overheating and mechanical stress can weaken the USB socket’s pads. A marginal or defective socket can then tear off during unplugging. A poor connector is more likely than a cable fault here. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19532365]

Are there ESP8266 boards with 5 V logic like an Arduino Nano?

No. Contributors report not seeing ESP8266 modules with 5 V GPIO. Use a level shifter or suitable interfacing method when driving 5 V logic devices. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19532365]

What soldering mistakes cause smoke on first power-up?

A solder bridge near the G pin or overheated parts can short power. Excess solder can make tiny, hard-to-see shorts. Inspect under strong magnification before powering. Clean up any bridges and reflow suspect joints. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19532153]

Did WLED firmware cause the failure?

No. The board worked after uploading WLED, indicating the MCU was fine. Failure occurred later during power and wiring changes to the strip and converter. The root cause is electrical, not firmware. [Elektroda, PaintedMan, post #19531031]

How do I wire a basic WLED + WS2812B setup without a shifter?

Use a suitably strong 5 V supply (example: 5 A for a 51‑LED strip).
Share grounds between PSU, ESP8266, and the strip.
Insert a 470 Ω resistor in series on the data line from ESP8266 to DIN. This setup worked for at least one user. [Elektroda, Anonymous, post #19532153]

Why does only the first LED need to accept 3.3 V data?

Because “DIN and DINOUT are not directly connected.” If the first LED accepts 3.3 V as HIGH, its DOUT regenerates the signal for the rest. Subsequent LEDs then receive a stronger output level. [Elektroda, khoam, post #19532365]

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