[BK7231N - CBU] TONGOU TO-Q-SY1-JWT Din Rail Wifi Switch with power metering

Thank you so much presentation! I would like to send you free elektroda.com gadgets, could you provide your address in the Private Message?

"The firmware do not support the bridge driver MD7620 yet, but the work is in progress."

Hi! Any screw?

I think @valeklubomir has it implemented on his branch, but the pull request wasn't created yet.

Valek submitted PR, driver will be added today! Thank you!

Hey, I'm new to the forums and I have one of these I'm trying to configure.

I've flashed the firmware over and it's working fine, but I'm now trying to work out the pin configuration... Is there a procedure for this? I've used the above information to get the LED correct and operating on the button press. I've not reconstructed the unit to see if the relay is closing (needs 12v I assume that's provided by the mains power!) but I assume that will be working by setting 24 and 26 to BridgeFWD and BridgeREV respectively.

Do I just work out pin configurations, or is there more code to add somewhere? Sorry for the questions!

Hello

For the basic functionality it is enough just to setup pins. Bridge driver will start automatically after reboot.

BridgeFWD and BridgeREV must be paired with channel ID. If device with multiple relays would apear, then multiple pair of FWD/REV could be defined.
So button/LED/FWD/REV must have same Channel ID.
It will behave as normal RELAY. Same functionality in MQTT or HomeAssistant.
I also activated startup command for using BL0942 energy monitor, if installed. There is also version without energy monitor.



Every other setup option should follow common rules.

Lubomir

Heroic! Thanks so much, I got this working today I can't believe how smooth this process was.

Valek did very good job with the driver.

Btw @thealphahelix , have you tried "startDriver SSDP"? Device will show up in Windows:

btw2 - my bulbs has now almost 90 days uptime!

>>20449965
What? That's awesome! I'll be trying that too

Thanks so much for the platform and all the help.

i have sucesfuly flash to this device but the relay dont switch

https://prnt.sc/mz2QWHowVvMA


here is config : somthing i need to change ? thank you for great work

https://prnt.sc/6pCzi65R2eS5

You have attached images incorrectly. External links will expire over time. Please use our image hosting. I have already fixed your post, but keep it in mind.

Why do you have a Rel_n configured?

Are you sure that your device is also using P24 and P26 for bridge?

i will only let know what was my problem :
i solved it right now

be desoldering the chip i have brake P24 pad
also i connected it now - i have change to

P6 (PWM0) it was near and soldered with thin cable to the route where come from relay output

here som pictures from work






Added after 4 [minutes]:



Added after 13 [minutes]:

why i dont have more reading there ?



ON
BL0942 Voltage=244.916381, Current=0.172250, Power=0.000000, Total Consumption=0.0 Wh (changes sent 34, skipped 570, saved 4)

now is 75W bulb attatched on Load

What kind of desoldering method did you use?

We will be publishing a hot air tutorial for IoT hacking soon. Please subscribe to our channel so you can see how to easily desolder the module.
https://www.youtube.com/@elektrodacom

i have used a hot gun, but not much practice, like you see

now is second done, but why the programer needs 100 atempts to write sucesfully ?


Added after 10 [minutes]:


/startup_command

backlog startDriver BL0942; SetupEnergyStats 1 30 120 0; startDriver NTP; ntp_timeZoneOfs 1; startDriver SSDP;

What kind of USB to UART converter do you have? For me it works good.

Maybe not enough flux when soldering? Did you first add Pb solder to make joints melting point lower?

i use this one



no i used only gun temperature 330 Celsius

but second i have make on board , i solder there only 5 wires _ RX,TX,VCC,GND and CEN to reboot

I don't know this board, it may be low quality or something, or more sensitive to noise.

Using just hot gun for desoldering makes the job very hard. I think you should first apply flux, then apply Pb solder to each joints (with a simple soldering iron) to lower their melting temperature, the again add a bit more flux, and then, finally, you can use hot air gun to heat up the joints.

Thanks to this method, the joints will be weaker and it will be easier to desolder the module.

If you have access, you can also use a trick method without hot air, like that:

but it can be risky.

To check in on this thread, we had an issue where the module kept turning itself off - not sure what was causing that. We were using it to run a solar inverter output through to measure it, so that may be the problem overall - I think in some cases it was being asked to measure negative current... Issue with that was that every time it dropped it was turning the output of the panels off, so not helpful! I think we'll try it on a more conventional circuit.

As for the above - I didn't desolder the whole module, I put dupont wires on with minimal solder to get connection. Was a bit hard but it worked ok!

today i have flashed 2 more cb2s chips
but not work on first time at all

see picture [img-0]

Added after 13 [minutes]:

Strange
Sometimes write in 5 min sometimes 30 min..

What about other baud rates?

I tried every one but only the middle work 921600
backup work well in 1or two attempts
but write - horror
today I recorded about 10 cb2s to switch 16Amp
but I spent 5 hours on it... well, I don't know, maybe it will be my flasher

Thanks for help.
I am ready

Well @romanfarki, as said in readme, maybe just try using hid_download_py?
https://github.com/OpenBekenIOT/hid_download_py/
Usage is on this video:

>>20288620

many many thanks for your work

could you change the title of this thread?

from "TO-Q-SV1" to "TO-Q-SY1"

its better to google

So there was a typo? Well, thank you! I didn't notice that.

By the way, here are OBK docs:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/blob/main/docs/README.md

Please let me know if there is anything else I can do for you.

I flash the CBU Wi-Fi TONGOU TO-Q-SY1-JWT without soldering and it worked. i only added 4 wires , CEN't use, in debian hid_download_py-master/uartprogram enter and turn on 3V3 and flies....
As I downloaded the template in obk (http......./?app), the pins were set to rel and rel_n making the relay coil energized all the time and heated up a lot which gave me a thought, I changed to H bridge as below:

"24": "BridgeFWD;1",
"26": "BridgeREV;1"

and now it is ok

only this template name was missing some letter and maybe it was a template for another type
my code: TO-Q-SY1-JWT 63
and this template https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/download.php?id=1189399 has pins 24 and 26 for my case wrongly set are Rel and they are supposed to be bridge , because the relay controlled by H bridge
with me the relay coil has 5V DC and here in the pictures above I see 12 VDC

maybe they are the same but different device ? or maybe the description needs to be made up ?

I analyzed the photos and I have a slightly different model, the board with the button I have soldered in a different way, above in the photo there are 3 solder fields on one side and 2 solder fields on the opposite side, and in my case 3 solder fields are in one place on the board and another 2 places in another place on the board
buttered butter


edits because the device is similar, pins are the same, only the design of the board is different


This model has a 12V coil , tuya was running fine, I uploaded openbk and now when switching the relay CBU restarts, the LED flashes and connects to the wifi.
As I disconnect the relay the device continues to work without rebooting.
Maybe I did something wrong

I have one of these devices and would like to flash OpenBK7231T on it. I wasn't able to find a flashing guide for the CBU module.

Can anyone guide me to get this flashed without removing the module from the PCB if possible?

I've flashed a lot of devices with Tasmota, so should be able to get this done with some guidance

@hapklaar it's just like with Tasmota - you can flash it without removing module as long as TX/RX is not used for some other purpose on the board.

You can flash CBU just like CB3S, CB2S, it's BK7231N.

You can check out these guides:

Older method:


Our new flasher:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/BK7231GUIFlashTool

Feel free to ask if you have any questions.

Hello!

Seems I found a great problem with this firmware settings and how it works with bridge relay.
In the first message in this thread was attached a diagram, how bridge Driver should be controlled:

And there clearly showed that it controlled by impulses about 100ms.
But in yours implementation bridge relay controlled by continuous power.
This is a reason of ac-dc adapter and bridge driver itself is hardly overload and it's become VERY hot. This is extremely dangerous as for relay components so for environment!!! I show not the maximum temperature, it's continue to grow up.


Can you please update configuration for firmware to fix this issue? Thank you!

PS: May be I'm doing something wrong?

Thank you reporting the issue. The bridge driver was created by Valek and I am not sure if he's active these days, @valeklubomir , are you online?
If he's not, then we will have to fix the issue ourselves.

So, are you saying that one of the relay coils is left on forever? This is strange, because judging from the code, it seems that both pins are set to 0 when time is out:

Or maybe I have misunderstood you, I haven't analyzed the working principle of this bridge controller yet.