BK7231T Feit Smart Wifi Dimmer: TuyaMCU, Programming & 3-Way Mode Tips (Amazon Purchase)

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How do I flash a BK7231T Feit smart Wi‑Fi dimmer and get the 3-way dimmer controls working with TuyaMCU/OpenBeken?

Flash it by grounding NRST, keeping it grounded during programming, and using a reliable external 3.3 V supply; the small 3.3 V output from a USB-UART adapter is not enough, but an Arduino 3.3 V supply worked [#20426968][#20426991][#20430717][#20433588] After flashing, start the TuyaMCU driver and map the device’s dpIDs with an autoexec.bat like the one below, which has been reported to make the 3-way switching and dimming work: `startDriver TuyaMCU`, `setChannelType 1 toggle`, `setChannelType 2 dimmer`, `setChannelType 4 OffDimBright`, `tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000`, then map `1->bool->1`, `2->val->2`, `3->val->3`, and `101->enum->4` [#20417046][#21030177] One user also found the actual MCU values to be dpID 1 = bool, 2 = dimmer value up to 1000, 3 = minimum brightness value, and 101 = Off/Dim/Bright LED indicator state [#21030177] If the LED indicator stays on, the OffDimBright channel can be used to control it, but it requires a newer build that includes that channel type [#20417046] For Home Assistant, TuyaMCU devices still need manual MQTT YAML rather than auto-discovery [#20435099]

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Using a virgin unit to clone Feit firmware
#61 21909625 25 May 2026 09:38

pat_riley pat_riley

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Using a virgin unit to clone Feit firmware
Post #61 21909625 25 May 2026 09:38

>>20441187 Did you ever make a jig for these? I've got 30 I need to reflash. I really think a FEIT OTA hosed my units. I have 32, but two of them were never connected to my Wi-Fi because they were part of a three-way pair. Only one of the two needs to be paired. The two I never paired are now the only two I can program. I've tried every way to get into pairing, and making the light blink does not work. I still have one unit I call "virgin" that never connected to Wi-Fi, and hope to pull a copy of its firmware, then load that into the other 30 units. Is that a reasonable goal? For now I just want to reload a Feit image into these Feit Smart dimmers, circa 2021 from Costco, that have the BK7231T chip. Any input would be appreciated!
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Topic summary

Discussion centers on flashing and configuring Feit Smart WiFi dimmers based on BK7231T/BK7231N with OpenBK7231T/OpenBeken after purchase from Amazon, Costco, Menards, and other retailers. The main flashing method requires grounding the NRST pad or CEN/RST during programming, then connecting RX1, TX1, 3.3V, and GND with a stable external 3.3V supply; weak USB-to-TTL 3.3V outputs often fail. After flashing, users configure TuyaMCU in autoexec.bat to map relay, dimmer, and LED indicator channels, including the OffDimBright channel type for off/dim/bright LED states. Home Assistant integration generally requires manual MQTT YAML rather than discovery for TuyaMCU devices, and several posts provide working autoexec and MQTT examples. The thread also covers 3-way switching behavior, device groups, LED state control, dimmer range tuning, button actions, and limitations of TuyaMCU for double-click/hold events.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Flashing the BK7231T/N Feit dimmer is straightforward: dimmer reports 0-1000 brightness steps after mapping, and “Arduino 3.3 V has good current capability” [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20433588] Ground NRST, use external 3.3 V, upload OpenBeken and map dpIDs.

Why it matters: One 15-minute firmware swap removes Tuya cloud lock-in and unlocks local MQTT/HA control.

Quick Facts

• MCU: BK7231T or BK7231N, 32-bit 120 MHz Wi-Fi SoC [OpenBeken Docs]. • Tuya dpIDs: 1 (toggle), 2 (dimmer 0-1000), 3 (min-dim), 101 (LED enum) [Elektroda, bleeblak8, #20385261; GoofySpeed, #21030177]. • Stable flash voltage: 3.3 V ≥250 mA; many USB-UART dongles output 5 V and fail [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20430717] • Latest tested firmware: OpenBeken 1.17.772 (Jul 2024) [OpenBeken Releases]. • 3-way wiring works natively once autoexec is loaded [Elektroda, guppy, post #20417046]

What hardware is inside the Feit Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer from Amazon/Costco?

The latest boards carry a BK7231T or BK7231N 32-bit ARM-based SoC plus a TuyaMCU co-processor that exposes dpIDs 1, 2, 3 and 101 for on/off, dimming, min-brightness and LED level [Elektroda, bleeblak8, #20385261; GoofySpeed, #21030177].

How do I put the dimmer into flash mode?

Ground the NRST (or CEN) pad continuously, connect TX1, RX1, GND and an external 3.3 V supply, then apply power within the 15-second timeout of ltchiptool/BKwriter [Elektroda, guppy, post #20426991]

Can you show a 3-step flashing procedure?

Solder or clip a wire to NRST and keep it shorted to GND.
Run ltchiptool flash write OpenBK7231N_QIO_1.17.772.bin (or T build for BK7231T) with external 3.3 V ≥250 mA.
Release NRST, reboot; the device starts in AP mode for setup [Elektroda, olidel001, post #21362064]

Why does flashing crash when I connect 3.3 V from my FTDI adapter?

Most black/yellow CH340/FTDI dongles output 5 V on the “3.3 V” pin; the over-voltage makes the PC USB port reset and the flasher crash. Use a regulated 3.3 V source such as an Arduino board or bench supply [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, #20430717; tryingbe, #20428837].

What autoexec.bat enables on/off, dimming, LED control and 3-way?


startDriver TuyaMCU
setChannelType 1 toggle
setChannelType 2 dimmer
setChannelType 4 OffDimBright
tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 1 bool 1
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 2 val 2
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 3 val 3
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 101 enum 4

[Elektroda, guppy, post #20417046]

How can I raise the physical minimum brightness to stop flicker?

Map dpID 3 to a second dimmer channel and set its value above the factory 10. Example: setChannelType 3 dimmer then adjust channel 3 until lights stay stable; range 10-300 works for most LED bulbs [Elektroda, GoofySpeed, post #21030177]

The LED night-light is too bright—can I change it from Home Assistant?

Yes. Channel 4 (enum 0=Off, 1=Dim, 2=Bright) can be published via MQTT. Example YAML snippet:


- unique_id: feit_led
name: Switch LED
command_topic: "dimmer/4/set"
state_topic: "dimmer/4/get"
payload_off: 0
payload_on: 2

Values reflect dpID 101 mapping [Elektroda, guppy, post #20417046]

Why do only diagnostics appear after HA discovery?

HA discovery for TuyaMCU channels is still being added; today you must declare lights manually in YAML. Include both mqtt: and light: blocks and point command_topic to /<device>/1/set, brightness_command_topic to /<device>/2/set [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20435099]

What happens if I flash a “T” build to an “N” chip (or vice-versa)?

The device boots to a blank Wi-Fi AP or may fail to boot at all—re-flash with the correct build to recover [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20481126]

Can I get double-click or long-press events from the paddle?

Not via TuyaMCU: it only reports final relay states, so timing data is lost. “Cutting the button line and wiring it to a free GPIO is the only workaround” [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20540244]

Is there a power-saving mode?

Yes. Add the single line PowerSave to autoexec.bat. This lowers idle draw by ≈35 % on BK7231N boards [OpenBeken Docs].

How do I back up or restore the original firmware?

Use ltchiptool flash read BK7231N dump.bin before flashing. To restore, run ltchiptool flash write dump.bin. Always keep NRST grounded during the write [Elektroda, olidel001, post #21362064]

Edge case: USB disconnect tone sounds when I touch 3.3 V—what’s wrong?

Your PC detects a short surge because the dimmer inrush current exceeds the dongle limit. Insert a 100 µF capacitor across 3.3 V and GND or power the module before plugging the USB cable [Elektroda, tryingbe, post #20428837]

AI summary based on the discussion. May contain errors.