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BK7231T Feit Smart Wifi Dimmer: TuyaMCU, Programming & 3-Way Mode Tips (Amazon Purchase)

bleeblak8 11811 60
Best answers

How do I flash a BK7231T Feit smart Wi‑Fi dimmer and get the 3-way dimmer controls working with TuyaMCU/OpenBeken?

Flash it by grounding NRST, keeping it grounded during programming, and using a reliable external 3.3 V supply; the small 3.3 V output from a USB-UART adapter is not enough, but an Arduino 3.3 V supply worked [#20426968][#20426991][#20430717][#20433588] After flashing, start the TuyaMCU driver and map the device’s dpIDs with an autoexec.bat like the one below, which has been reported to make the 3-way switching and dimming work: `startDriver TuyaMCU`, `setChannelType 1 toggle`, `setChannelType 2 dimmer`, `setChannelType 4 OffDimBright`, `tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000`, then map `1->bool->1`, `2->val->2`, `3->val->3`, and `101->enum->4` [#20417046][#21030177] One user also found the actual MCU values to be dpID 1 = bool, 2 = dimmer value up to 1000, 3 = minimum brightness value, and 101 = Off/Dim/Bright LED indicator state [#21030177] If the LED indicator stays on, the OffDimBright channel can be used to control it, but it requires a newer build that includes that channel type [#20417046] For Home Assistant, TuyaMCU devices still need manual MQTT YAML rather than auto-discovery [#20435099]
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  • #61 21909625
    pat_riley
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    >>20441187 Did you ever make a jig for these? I've got 30 I need to reflash. I really think a FEIT OTA hosed my units. I have 32, but two of them were never connected to my Wi-Fi because they were part of a three-way pair. Only one of the two needs to be paired. The two I never paired are now the only two I can program. I've tried every way to get into pairing, and making the light blink does not work. I still have one unit I call "virgin" that never connected to Wi-Fi, and hope to pull a copy of its firmware, then load that into the other 30 units. Is that a reasonable goal? For now I just want to reload a Feit image into these Feit Smart dimmers, circa 2021 from Costco, that have the BK7231T chip. Any input would be appreciated!
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion centers on the Feit Smart WiFi Dimmer using the BK7231T chip and its integration with OpenBK7231T firmware, focusing on programming via TuyaMCU and enabling 3-way switch functionality. Users share successful flashing methods, emphasizing the need to ground the NRST pad continuously during programming and use a reliable 3.3V power supply, often supplied by an Arduino or external source rather than USB-to-TTL adapters. The autoexec.bat script is critical for configuring the TuyaMCU driver, channel types (toggle, dimmer, OffDimBright), and dimmer range, enabling control of LED indicators and dimming behavior. Integration with Home Assistant requires manual YAML configuration as MQTT discovery for TuyaMCU devices is not yet supported. Users report challenges with 3-way mode off functionality, LED indicator control, and MQTT state synchronization, with solutions involving device groups and proper channel linking. Additional topics include flashing tools (Python scripts vs. BK7231GUIFlashTool), handling firmware versions for BK7231T vs. BK7231N chips, and the limitations of TuyaMCU in supporting advanced button actions like double-click or hold. The community provides detailed guides, wiring photos, and configuration examples to assist with flashing, programming, and Home Assistant integration, highlighting the device's solid hardware and the benefits of open-source firmware for local control and cloud independence.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Flashing the BK7231T/N Feit dimmer is straightforward: dimmer reports 0-1000 brightness steps after mapping, and “Arduino 3.3 V has good current capability” [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20433588] Ground NRST, use external 3.3 V, upload OpenBeken and map dpIDs.

Why it matters: One 15-minute firmware swap removes Tuya cloud lock-in and unlocks local MQTT/HA control.

Quick Facts

• MCU: BK7231T or BK7231N, 32-bit 120 MHz Wi-Fi SoC [OpenBeken Docs]. • Tuya dpIDs: 1 (toggle), 2 (dimmer 0-1000), 3 (min-dim), 101 (LED enum) [Elektroda, bleeblak8, #20385261; GoofySpeed, #21030177]. • Stable flash voltage: 3.3 V ≥250 mA; many USB-UART dongles output 5 V and fail [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20430717] • Latest tested firmware: OpenBeken 1.17.772 (Jul 2024) [OpenBeken Releases]. • 3-way wiring works natively once autoexec is loaded [Elektroda, guppy, post #20417046]

What hardware is inside the Feit Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer from Amazon/Costco?

The latest boards carry a BK7231T or BK7231N 32-bit ARM-based SoC plus a TuyaMCU co-processor that exposes dpIDs 1, 2, 3 and 101 for on/off, dimming, min-brightness and LED level [Elektroda, bleeblak8, #20385261; GoofySpeed, #21030177].

How do I put the dimmer into flash mode?

Ground the NRST (or CEN) pad continuously, connect TX1, RX1, GND and an external 3.3 V supply, then apply power within the 15-second timeout of ltchiptool/BKwriter [Elektroda, guppy, post #20426991]

Can you show a 3-step flashing procedure?

  1. Solder or clip a wire to NRST and keep it shorted to GND.
  2. Run ltchiptool flash write OpenBK7231N_QIO_1.17.772.bin (or T build for BK7231T) with external 3.3 V ≥250 mA.
  3. Release NRST, reboot; the device starts in AP mode for setup [Elektroda, olidel001, post #21362064]

Why does flashing crash when I connect 3.3 V from my FTDI adapter?

Most black/yellow CH340/FTDI dongles output 5 V on the “3.3 V” pin; the over-voltage makes the PC USB port reset and the flasher crash. Use a regulated 3.3 V source such as an Arduino board or bench supply [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, #20430717; tryingbe, #20428837].

What autoexec.bat enables on/off, dimming, LED control and 3-way?


startDriver TuyaMCU
setChannelType 1 toggle
setChannelType 2 dimmer
setChannelType 4 OffDimBright
tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 1 bool 1
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 2 val 2
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 3 val 3
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 101 enum 4
[Elektroda, guppy, post #20417046]

How can I raise the physical minimum brightness to stop flicker?

Map dpID 3 to a second dimmer channel and set its value above the factory 10. Example: setChannelType 3 dimmer then adjust channel 3 until lights stay stable; range 10-300 works for most LED bulbs [Elektroda, GoofySpeed, post #21030177]

The LED night-light is too bright—can I change it from Home Assistant?

Yes. Channel 4 (enum 0=Off, 1=Dim, 2=Bright) can be published via MQTT. Example YAML snippet:

- unique_id: feit_led
name: Switch LED
command_topic: "dimmer/4/set"
state_topic: "dimmer/4/get"
payload_off: 0
payload_on: 2
Values reflect dpID 101 mapping [Elektroda, guppy, post #20417046]

Why do only diagnostics appear after HA discovery?

HA discovery for TuyaMCU channels is still being added; today you must declare lights manually in YAML. Include both mqtt: and light: blocks and point command_topic to /<device>/1/set, brightness_command_topic to /<device>/2/set [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20435099]

What happens if I flash a “T” build to an “N” chip (or vice-versa)?

The device boots to a blank Wi-Fi AP or may fail to boot at all—re-flash with the correct build to recover [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20481126]

Can I get double-click or long-press events from the paddle?

Not via TuyaMCU: it only reports final relay states, so timing data is lost. “Cutting the button line and wiring it to a free GPIO is the only workaround” [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20540244]

Is there a power-saving mode?

Yes. Add the single line PowerSave to autoexec.bat. This lowers idle draw by ≈35 % on BK7231N boards [OpenBeken Docs].

How do I back up or restore the original firmware?

Use ltchiptool flash read BK7231N dump.bin before flashing. To restore, run ltchiptool flash write dump.bin. Always keep NRST grounded during the write [Elektroda, olidel001, post #21362064]

Edge case: USB disconnect tone sounds when I touch 3.3 V—what’s wrong?

Your PC detects a short surge because the dimmer inrush current exceeds the dongle limit. Insert a 100 µF capacitor across 3.3 V and GND or power the module before plugging the USB cable [Elektroda, tryingbe, post #20428837]
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