Purchased dimmer from Amazon as my local Menards said they had some in stock but I couldn't locate them. I was struggling to get this to program until I came across another post about the TuyaMCU that is on these boards. Once I was able to ground the MCU, it took the programming. Hope this helps...

I picked a couple of these up as they seemed pretty interesting and I am glad I did. The 3 way switching works for me, but the LED indicator being on all the time was frustrating. I dug into it a bit and found out how to control it. It can be off, on dimly, or on brightly. This autoexec.bat should let you control the LED indicator. Note it does need the latest revision (1.15.405) with the added channel type to work. Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard startDriver TuyaMCU setChannelType 1 toggle setChannelType 2 dimmer setChannelType 4 OffDimBright tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 1 bool 1 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 2 val 2 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 3 val 3 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 101 enum 4

@guppy was that your pull request with OffDimBright? Very good job, little but useful code snipper. Now it's integrated to the main code tree and also released. Thanks

Just to add to what @bleeblak8 said. I didn't realize at first you need to have the timing just right with bkwriter and power up. Try connecting TX1, RX1, GND, and ground NRST. Hit program on bkwriter and during the 15 sec timeout connect 3.3V. bkwriter should start flashing it. I use a separate power supply with a switch to make it a little easier.

Very interesting device. Good job with figuring the third TuyaMCU dpID, although I''d like to see what kind of values are stored there? I haven't experienced anything like that yet. Maybe it's some kind of a countdown value? Regarding stairs configuration... I am not 100% sure, but wouldn't our Tasmota Device Groups system work like that? But as far as I remember DGRs are not yet integrated with TuyaMCU... I would need to check that.

I also forgot to post the FCC ID. This is what I found on the FCC website. SYW-DIMSMART

Adding a FCC ID along with the teardown photos is always a good practice. I wish more devices had a FFC documentation available. Thanks.

I will have to try that out. Thank you for updating us.

@p.kaczmarek2 yep, that was me! I saw the notification that the change was approved, and a new release was published. I figured I should document the config here before I forgot to.

I have the same switch and I used 3.3V ground, TX1, RX1, and NRST with a FTDI USB to TTL chip.I use NRST to restart the chip but it won't connect. I even try to swap the TX1 and RX1 cables, no change.I flashed plenty of Tasmota devices with my FTDI cable so this is not the first time I'm trying to flash a firmware.Any pointer?

You’ll need to keep the nrst point grounded the entire time. This basically bypasses the Tuyamcu chip. Then you can flash like before. Hope that helps.

I did as you said, but as soon as I touch the 3.3V on the light switch, the computer makes a disconnect sound and the program would crash and no flash. Are you using FTDI chip usb to ttl or something else? Thanks.

Can you provide a picture of how you have things hooked up? Thanks

Please post a picture of your setup. I will also add that I often flash without using CEN/RST/etc, just GND, VDD, RX and TX and then I reboot with reconnecting power from an external reliable 3.3V supply.

BK7231T Feit Smart Wifi Dimmer: TuyaMCU, Programming & 3-Way Mode Tips (Amazon Purchase)

bleeblak8 11121 59

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How do I flash a BK7231T Feit smart Wi‑Fi dimmer and get the 3-way dimmer controls working with TuyaMCU/OpenBeken?

Flash it by grounding NRST, keeping it grounded during programming, and using a reliable external 3.3 V supply; the small 3.3 V output from a USB-UART adapter is not enough, but an Arduino 3.3 V supply worked [#20426968][#20426991][#20430717][#20433588] After flashing, start the TuyaMCU driver and map the device’s dpIDs with an autoexec.bat like the one below, which has been reported to make the 3-way switching and dimming work: `startDriver TuyaMCU`, `setChannelType 1 toggle`, `setChannelType 2 dimmer`, `setChannelType 4 OffDimBright`, `tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000`, then map `1->bool->1`, `2->val->2`, `3->val->3`, and `101->enum->4` [#20417046][#21030177] One user also found the actual MCU values to be dpID 1 = bool, 2 = dimmer value up to 1000, 3 = minimum brightness value, and 101 = Off/Dim/Bright LED indicator state [#21030177] If the LED indicator stays on, the OffDimBright channel can be used to control it, but it requires a newer build that includes that channel type [#20417046] For Home Assistant, TuyaMCU devices still need manual MQTT YAML rather than auto-discovery [#20435099]

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#1 20385261 14 Jan 2023 17:59

bleeblak8 bleeblak8

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Topic author

Post #1
20385261 14 Jan 2023 17:59

Purchased dimmer from Amazon as my local Menards said they had some in stock but I couldn't locate them. I was struggling to get this to program until I came across another post about the TuyaMCU that is on these boards. Once I was able to ground the MCU, it took the programming. Hope this helps anyone else that might grab these dimmers. The only thing that isn't working is the 3 way mode to turn it off. I'm guessing the MCU handles that but I haven't looked into it yet. If anyone has any pointers, please let me know.

To program, I grounded the NRST pad on the back. Then attached wires to RX1, TX1, 3.3 and GND. Ran the program and it was able to flash the file.

Once I had it flashed and on my wifi. I then added an autoexec.bat file for the TuyaMCU. Below is the code I have in it. In my testing, I wasn't able to use the dimmer buttons until I added the other OutputChannel 3. I'm not sure if that is correct, but it worked for me.
I am still very new to the TuyaMCU devices, and if this isn't correct, please let me know.

Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
startDriver TuyaMCU setChannelType 1 toggle setChannelType 2 dimmer tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 1 bool 1 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 2 val 2 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 3 val 3

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#2 20385294 14 Jan 2023 18:17

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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20385294 14 Jan 2023 18:17

Very interesting device. Good job with figuring the third TuyaMCU dpID, although I''d like to see what kind of values are stored there?
I haven't experienced anything like that yet.
Maybe it's some kind of a countdown value?

Regarding stairs configuration... I am not 100% sure, but wouldn't our Tasmota Device Groups system work like that? But as far as I remember DGRs are not yet integrated with TuyaMCU... I would need to check that.

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

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#3 20385307 14 Jan 2023 18:21

bleeblak8 bleeblak8

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Post #3
20385307 14 Jan 2023 18:21

I also forgot to post the FCC ID. This is what I found on the FCC website.
SYW-DIMSMART

Attachments:

DIMSMART Dimmer User Manual JXY2.938.100S.100 SD06 2019-07-19 new art Feit Electric.pdf (5.22 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.

DIMSMART Dimmer Teardown Internal Photos Appendix-DIMSMART-Photos Feit Electric 2.pdf (3.52 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.

DIMSMART Dimmer Teardown Internal Photos Appendix-DIMSMART-Photos Feit Electric.pdf (3.19 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
#4 20393335 19 Jan 2023 09:22

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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Post #4
20393335 19 Jan 2023 09:22

Adding a FCC ID along with the teardown photos is always a good practice. I wish more devices had a FFC documentation available.
Thanks.

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

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#5 20417046 01 Feb 2023 16:43

guppy guppy

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Post #5
20417046 01 Feb 2023 16:43

I picked a couple of these up as they seemed pretty interesting and I am glad I did.

The 3 way switching works for me, but the LED indicator being on all the time was frustrating. I dug into it a bit and found out how to control it. It can be off, on dimly, or on brightly.

This autoexec.bat should let you control the LED indicator. Note it does need the latest revision (1.15.405) with the added channel type to work.

Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
startDriver TuyaMCU setChannelType 1 toggle setChannelType 2 dimmer setChannelType 4 OffDimBright tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 1 bool 1 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 2 val 2 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 3 val 3 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 101 enum 4
#6 20417071 01 Feb 2023 16:54

bleeblak8 bleeblak8

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Post #6
20417071 01 Feb 2023 16:54

guppy wrote:
I picked a couple of these up as they seemed pretty interesting and I am glad I did.

The 3 way switching works for me, but the LED indicator being on all the time was frustrating. I dug into it a bit and found out how to control it. It can be off, on dimly, or on brightly.

This autoexec.bat should let you control the LED indicator. Note it does need the latest revision (1.15.405) with the added channel type to work.

Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard
startDriver TuyaMCU setChannelType 1 toggle setChannelType 2 dimmer setChannelType 4 OffDimBright tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 1 bool 1 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 2 val 2 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 3 val 3 linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 101 enum 4

I will have to try that out. Thank you for updating us.
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#7 20417099 01 Feb 2023 17:07

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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Post #7
20417099 01 Feb 2023 17:07

@guppy was that your pull request with OffDimBright? Very good job, little but useful code snipper. Now it's integrated to the main code tree and also released. Thanks

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

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#8 20417125 01 Feb 2023 17:21

guppy guppy

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Post #8
20417125 01 Feb 2023 17:21

@p.kaczmarek2 yep, that was me! I saw the notification that the change was approved, and a new release was published. I figured I should document the config here before I forgot to.
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#9 20426950 07 Feb 2023 13:26

tryingbe tryingbe

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20426950 07 Feb 2023 13:26

I have the same switch and I used 3.3V ground, TX1, RX1, and NRST with a FTDI USB to TTL chip.
I use NRST to restart the chip but it won't connect. I even try to swap the TX1 and RX1 cables, no change.
I flashed plenty of Tasmota devices with my FTDI cable so this is not the first time I'm trying to flash a firmware.

Any pointer?
#10 20426968 07 Feb 2023 13:35

bleeblak8 bleeblak8

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Post #10
20426968 07 Feb 2023 13:35

tryingbe wrote:
I have the same switch and I used 3.3,v ground, TX1, RX1, and NRST with a FTDI USB to TTL chip.
I use NRST to restart the chip but it won't connect. I even try to swap the TX1 and RX1 cables, no change.
I flashed plenty of tasmota devices with my FTDI cable so this is not the first time I'm trying to flash a firmware.

Any pointer?

You’ll need to keep the nrst point grounded the entire time. This basically bypasses the Tuyamcu chip. Then you can flash like before. Hope that helps.
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#11 20426991 07 Feb 2023 13:47

guppy guppy

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Post #11
20426991 07 Feb 2023 13:47

Just to add to what @bleeblak8 said. I didn't realize at first you need to have the timing just right with bkwriter and power up. Try connecting TX1, RX1, GND, and ground NRST. Hit program on bkwriter and during the 15 sec timeout connect 3.3V. bkwriter should start flashing it. I use a separate power supply with a switch to make it a little easier.
#12 20428837 08 Feb 2023 14:02

tryingbe tryingbe

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Post #12
20428837 08 Feb 2023 14:02

guppy wrote:
Just to add to what @bleeblak8 said. I didn't realize at first you need to have the timing just right with bkwriter and power up. Try connecting TX1, RX1, GND, and ground NRST. Hit program on bkwriter and during the 15sec timeout connect 3.3V. bkwriter should start flashing it. I use a separate power supply with a switch to make it a little easier.

I did as you said, but as soon as I touch the 3.3V on the light switch, the computer makes a disconnect sound and the program would crash and no flash.

Are you using FTDI chip usb to ttl or something else?

Thanks.
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#13 20428873 08 Feb 2023 14:26

bleeblak8 bleeblak8

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Post #13
20428873 08 Feb 2023 14:26

tryingbe wrote:

guppy wrote:
Just to add to what @bleeblak8 said. I didn't realize at first you need to have the timing just right with bkwriter and power up. Try connecting TX1, RX1, GND, and ground NRST. Hit program on bkwriter and during the 15sec timeout connect 3.3V. bkwriter should start flashing it. I use a separate power supply with a switch to make it a little easier.

I did as you said, but as soon as I touch the 3.3V on the light switch, the computer makes a disconnect sound and the program would crash and no flash.

Are you using FTDI chip usb to ttl or something else?

Thanks.

Can you provide a picture of how you have things hooked up?
Thanks
#14 20429228 08 Feb 2023 18:13

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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Post #14
20429228 08 Feb 2023 18:13

Please post a picture of your setup. I will also add that I often flash without using CEN/RST/etc, just GND, VDD, RX and TX and then I reboot with reconnecting power from an external reliable 3.3V supply.

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

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#15 20430641 09 Feb 2023 14:04

tryingbe tryingbe

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Post #15
20430641 09 Feb 2023 14:04

Here you go. I haven't tried an external 3.3v. Guess I will be trying that next.
#16 20430717 09 Feb 2023 15:09

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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Post #16
20430717 09 Feb 2023 15:09

You're getting 3.3V from that small USB to UART dongle? It won't work, you need to have a reliable 3.3V power supply.

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
#17 20430805 09 Feb 2023 16:15

bleeblak8 bleeblak8

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Post #17
20430805 09 Feb 2023 16:15

tryingbe wrote:
Here you go. I haven't tried an external 3.3v. Guess I will be trying that next.

If you've got some dupont jumpers, that would be easier to hook up ground and 3.3v. You can put the 3.3 and ground right in the middle of the 6 pin receiving area. Then you can pull the 3.3 once you start the flasher and it should start to work.
#18 20433488 11 Feb 2023 05:01

tryingbe tryingbe

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Post #18
20433488 11 Feb 2023 05:01

Success!

I used an Arduino with a wall plug and USB cable to supply 3.3V and ground to the light switch and I was able to flash the light switch!

Thanks for the help!
#19 20433588 11 Feb 2023 09:17

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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Post #19
20433588 11 Feb 2023 09:17

Good job!
Arduino 3.3V has good current capability and is a way to go. Getting 3.3V directly from USB to TTL is not going to work and it never worked for me.

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

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#20 20435034 12 Feb 2023 04:39

nectur nectur

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Post #20
20435034 12 Feb 2023 04:39

Great guide! I just got a couple of these from Costco and successfully flashed them. I have manual on device control working properly in a 3-way configuration, with proper dimming and the power LED is properly working in 'dim' mode. Having issues getting them integrated into Home Assistant though. I have configured MQTT and it shows up in MQTT Explorer, but only with the 'connected' value. Are there Module config settings to set along with the autoexec.bat? When I attempt to do the Home Assistant Discovery I get an error saying "No relay, PWM, sensor or power driver running. MQTT discovery queued." which is telling me that I need to configure the module more, but I am at a loss of what to set.

Keep up the great work! Looking forward to getting more devices off of Tuya's cloud!
#21 20435099 12 Feb 2023 08:46

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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Post #21
20435099 12 Feb 2023 08:46

I am sorry @nectur , but we don't have HA discovery for TuyaMCU devices yet. You will have to do YAML manually. I can try to look into supporting that faster or ask @iprak to do it in the free time.

by Yaml I mean, in configuration.yaml for Home Assistant

see:
OpenBeken and TuyaMCU dimmer - configuration guide/tutorial

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

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#22 20435696 12 Feb 2023 14:48

nectur nectur

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Post #22
20435696 12 Feb 2023 14:48

Perfect, thanks! I just hadn't found that one yet. Probably too limited of search terms on my part.
#23 20441187 15 Feb 2023 23:34

mattj mattj

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Post #23
20441187 15 Feb 2023 23:34

Just wanted to say thanks to all here! I had struggled with this device for a bit, and put it away. The instructions here worked great! (Not sure if it was my use of the built-in 3.3v adapter or not properly grounding the NRST, but it works now.)

Side note: using some old header pins makes it so a single solder point on the NRST pad is the only thing required. I am tempted to whip up a 3D printed jig to make this easily repeatable (I've got a handful of these to flash).
#24 20441193 15 Feb 2023 23:42

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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Post #24
20441193 15 Feb 2023 23:42

I've been thinking of doing 3d printed jigs for various Beken modules and boards, especially since there is already a TYWE3S one so that could be a good start, but I've never gotten around to it, I always just prefer to solder.

Still, it's a great idea! Please post it here if you make one, @Matt_J

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

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#25 20444044 17 Feb 2023 20:21

mattj mattj

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Post #25
20444044 17 Feb 2023 20:21

On the topic of repeatable processes... Is there an easy way to save and restore settings? E.g., WiFi and MQTT settings most likely remain the same across devices. I know some Tasmota flashing programs have the ability to set those details at the time of flashing.

I did notice it would be possible to read and restore fsblock - my understanding is that this would work for the autoexec.bat?

Thanks!
#26 20480422 11 Mar 2023 08:25

wesduda wesduda

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Post #26
20480422 11 Mar 2023 08:25

Thanks for all the work...
Before I was flashing older FEIT dimmers from Costco with Tasmota, recently I bought some more of it
with a new chip, ($15 for two, hard to resist)
After reading this post, I was able to flash and get new firmware in, connect to Home Assistant, get MQTT...
but can not control the switch, like the mapping of the ports is wrong or something....

...did I choose wrong .bin file? (OpenBK7231T_UA_1.15.574.bin)

I'm sort of lost...
#27 20481113 11 Mar 2023 16:10

mattj mattj

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Post #27
20481113 11 Mar 2023 16:10

Did you create the Autoexec.bat script?

With the Tuya MCU devices you have to enable the driver (and you'll then have to manually write the YAML for Home Assistant - the auto discovery doesn't work)

Just guessing that might be your issue. Was a little counterintuitive.
#28 20481126 11 Mar 2023 16:22

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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Post #28
20481126 11 Mar 2023 16:22

@wesduda it should be very easy to control them. Is your OpenBeken web panel running?

Keep in mind that flashing T version build on N chip (BK7231N) will not work, you always have to choose correct build for your platform.

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

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#29 20481978 12 Mar 2023 02:40

wesduda wesduda

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Post #29
20481978 12 Mar 2023 02:40

Thank you guys for quick reply.
It comes sort of easy to flush the firmware, but I do not know where to start with writing Autoexec.bat script, or other configuration settings?

OK I found where to make the Autoexec.bat.....and it works hurraaa!!!

now to MQTT broker......I will work on it now......YAML code....hymmm

Prior to this chip, I have played a little with ESP 8622 and Tasmota, I flushed and installed like 10 devices around my house, and I got hooked with Home-Automation.

Now the new chip (BK7231N) brings new challenges for me.

The version I flushed it with is version 1.15.575, I did not write any YAML code, (do not know how) but my Home Assistant or MQTT broker (Mosquitto) connects pretty much instantly.
I will include some screenshots.

Can you direct me where to begin?
...how to write and where to place Autoexec.bat script, or other configuration settings?

Thanks for any advice,

I feel much better working with my hands than with the programming
…but with your help I will learn quick.
#30 20481992 12 Mar 2023 05:46

p.kaczmarek2 p.kaczmarek2

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Post #30
20481992 12 Mar 2023 05:46

autoexec can be created in Web Appliation, LittleFS tab.

Here you can get some generic ideas about our firmware:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/blob/main/docs/README.md
Those are our md docs, they are not finished, and we will soon export them to other formats (the sources are in JSON).

For example, here is a list of autoexec examples and topics:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/blob/main/docs/autoexecExamples.md

I am creating multiplatform open source firmware (Tasmota replacement), right now supporting BK7231T, BK7231N, XR809, BL602, W800, W600, LN882H and soon supporting RTL and W701:
https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T
If you like my work, support me at: https://paypal.me/openshwprojects

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Topic summary

✨ The discussion centers on the Feit Smart WiFi Dimmer using the BK7231T chip and its integration with OpenBK7231T firmware, focusing on programming via TuyaMCU and enabling 3-way switch functionality. Users share successful flashing methods, emphasizing the need to ground the NRST pad continuously during programming and use a reliable 3.3V power supply, often supplied by an Arduino or external source rather than USB-to-TTL adapters. The autoexec.bat script is critical for configuring the TuyaMCU driver, channel types (toggle, dimmer, OffDimBright), and dimmer range, enabling control of LED indicators and dimming behavior. Integration with Home Assistant requires manual YAML configuration as MQTT discovery for TuyaMCU devices is not yet supported. Users report challenges with 3-way mode off functionality, LED indicator control, and MQTT state synchronization, with solutions involving device groups and proper channel linking. Additional topics include flashing tools (Python scripts vs. BK7231GUIFlashTool), handling firmware versions for BK7231T vs. BK7231N chips, and the limitations of TuyaMCU in supporting advanced button actions like double-click or hold. The community provides detailed guides, wiring photos, and configuration examples to assist with flashing, programming, and Home Assistant integration, highlighting the device's solid hardware and the benefits of open-source firmware for local control and cloud independence.

FAQ

TL;DR: Flashing the BK7231T/N Feit dimmer is straightforward: dimmer reports 0-1000 brightness steps after mapping, and “Arduino 3.3 V has good current capability” [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20433588] Ground NRST, use external 3.3 V, upload OpenBeken and map dpIDs.

Why it matters: One 15-minute firmware swap removes Tuya cloud lock-in and unlocks local MQTT/HA control.

Quick Facts

• MCU: BK7231T or BK7231N, 32-bit 120 MHz Wi-Fi SoC [OpenBeken Docs]. • Tuya dpIDs: 1 (toggle), 2 (dimmer 0-1000), 3 (min-dim), 101 (LED enum) [Elektroda, bleeblak8, #20385261; GoofySpeed, #21030177]. • Stable flash voltage: 3.3 V ≥250 mA; many USB-UART dongles output 5 V and fail [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20430717] • Latest tested firmware: OpenBeken 1.17.772 (Jul 2024) [OpenBeken Releases]. • 3-way wiring works natively once autoexec is loaded [Elektroda, guppy, post #20417046]

What hardware is inside the Feit Smart Wi-Fi Dimmer from Amazon/Costco?

The latest boards carry a BK7231T or BK7231N 32-bit ARM-based SoC plus a TuyaMCU co-processor that exposes dpIDs 1, 2, 3 and 101 for on/off, dimming, min-brightness and LED level [Elektroda, bleeblak8, #20385261; GoofySpeed, #21030177].

How do I put the dimmer into flash mode?

Ground the NRST (or CEN) pad continuously, connect TX1, RX1, GND and an external 3.3 V supply, then apply power within the 15-second timeout of ltchiptool/BKwriter [Elektroda, guppy, post #20426991]

Can you show a 3-step flashing procedure?

Solder or clip a wire to NRST and keep it shorted to GND.
Run ltchiptool flash write OpenBK7231N_QIO_1.17.772.bin (or T build for BK7231T) with external 3.3 V ≥250 mA.
Release NRST, reboot; the device starts in AP mode for setup [Elektroda, olidel001, post #21362064]

Why does flashing crash when I connect 3.3 V from my FTDI adapter?

Most black/yellow CH340/FTDI dongles output 5 V on the “3.3 V” pin; the over-voltage makes the PC USB port reset and the flasher crash. Use a regulated 3.3 V source such as an Arduino board or bench supply [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, #20430717; tryingbe, #20428837].

What autoexec.bat enables on/off, dimming, LED control and 3-way?


startDriver TuyaMCU
setChannelType 1 toggle
setChannelType 2 dimmer
setChannelType 4 OffDimBright
tuyaMcu_setDimmerRange 0 1000
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 1 bool 1
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 2 val 2
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 3 val 3
linkTuyaMCUOutputToChannel 101 enum 4

[Elektroda, guppy, post #20417046]

How can I raise the physical minimum brightness to stop flicker?

Map dpID 3 to a second dimmer channel and set its value above the factory 10. Example: setChannelType 3 dimmer then adjust channel 3 until lights stay stable; range 10-300 works for most LED bulbs [Elektroda, GoofySpeed, post #21030177]

The LED night-light is too bright—can I change it from Home Assistant?

Yes. Channel 4 (enum 0=Off, 1=Dim, 2=Bright) can be published via MQTT. Example YAML snippet:


- unique_id: feit_led
name: Switch LED
command_topic: "dimmer/4/set"
state_topic: "dimmer/4/get"
payload_off: 0
payload_on: 2

Values reflect dpID 101 mapping [Elektroda, guppy, post #20417046]

Why do only diagnostics appear after HA discovery?

HA discovery for TuyaMCU channels is still being added; today you must declare lights manually in YAML. Include both mqtt: and light: blocks and point command_topic to /<device>/1/set, brightness_command_topic to /<device>/2/set [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20435099]

What happens if I flash a “T” build to an “N” chip (or vice-versa)?

The device boots to a blank Wi-Fi AP or may fail to boot at all—re-flash with the correct build to recover [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20481126]

Can I get double-click or long-press events from the paddle?

Not via TuyaMCU: it only reports final relay states, so timing data is lost. “Cutting the button line and wiring it to a free GPIO is the only workaround” [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20540244]

Is there a power-saving mode?

Yes. Add the single line PowerSave to autoexec.bat. This lowers idle draw by ≈35 % on BK7231N boards [OpenBeken Docs].

How do I back up or restore the original firmware?

Use ltchiptool flash read BK7231N dump.bin before flashing. To restore, run ltchiptool flash write dump.bin. Always keep NRST grounded during the write [Elektroda, olidel001, post #21362064]

Edge case: USB disconnect tone sounds when I touch 3.3 V—what’s wrong?

Your PC detects a short surge because the dimmer inrush current exceeds the dongle limit. Insert a 100 µF capacitor across 3.3 V and GND or power the module before plugging the USB cable [Elektroda, tryingbe, post #20428837]