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Home control - PLC, roller shutters, lighting, alarm, monitoring - Smart Home + Classic installation

Berend 6423 42
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How should I design a smart-home electrical installation for shutters, lighting, alarm, heating and access control in a new house, and is it a bad idea to remove local shutter and light switches?

Do not make the whole house depend on the PLC alone: keep local manual control for shutters and lights, and use a hybrid setup with Home Assistant/Domoticz for the smart-home layer, plus PLC logic only where it really adds value [#20865963] [#20868007] For roller shutters, wire the motors and local buttons back to the switchboard, then consider Shelly 2.5/2.5 PM or Sonoff Dual R3 if you want percent opening and fewer contactors, but leave access and ventilation because some users reported overheating and failures in Shelly/Sonoff devices [#20865963] [#20868007] [#20869477] For lighting, simple on/off control on relays was recommended over complicated dimming; a central touchscreen/visualisation is useful, but phone-only control was considered awkward [#20865963] [#20987893] For alarm and doors, Satel Integra with ETHM/INT-SCR was praised as very stable and practical for automation, code locks and electric door strikes, with normal inside exit via handle and backup entry in case of power loss [#20865963] [#20870588] [#20988360] [#21008378] Plan plenty of separate circuits and future-proof wiring for sensors, cameras, sockets, speakers and other devices, because the system will grow, and HA/Domoticz can run on a Raspberry Pi, SSD, old laptop or NAS as the control front end [#20868007] [#20993411]
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  • #31 20990352
    Berend
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    But since Shelly, is more expensive than Son Off or Zamel, I dread to think how those modules perform.
    Maybe those after-market modules have better cooling ...? (but do they have any at all ...).
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  • #32 20993048
    Berend
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    My PLC uPC3 Carel drops out
    So rather stay with Home Assistant and shelly modules and others.
  • #33 20993053
    Daro1003
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    Berend wrote:
    Maybe these aftermarket modules have better cooling ...? (but do they even have ...)
    Well, what do I have ? Shelly 2.5 is a doped module.

    The only thing is that I think they have improved something in the newer version with the power supply.
  • #34 20993055
    Berend
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    Daro1003 wrote:
    Berend wrote:
    Maybe these aftermarket modules have better cooling ...? (but do they even have ...)

    Well, what do I have ? Shelly 2,5 are the bus-modules.

    The only thing is I think that in the newer version they have improved something with the power supply.


    I thought you had the version for the th-35 bus.

    Generally I will be doing a star installation, the switchgear will be huge and I'll just have to think later what to control....
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  • #35 20993078
    Daro1003
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    Berend wrote:
    I'll just be thinking later on what to control it with....

    Whether this is a good solution I don't know probably not because various topics will come up during construction and instead of dealing with other things you'll be designing the control e.g. you'll install blinds or have them installed so it's good to close them at night and secure the construction. The other thing is the lighting also needed controlled by it and the fact that it is for finishing work.

    Having everything prepared at your leisure you assemble and it already works.
    Some modules need to be installed, assembled and certain stages closed.
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  • #36 20993083
    Berend
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    You're right, but such basic circuits can be connected to some contactors and that's it.

    And eventually I think I'll do that the Home assistant itself and control a few sockets, lighting and roller shutters, and to the actuators I'll connect a cable and I'll think what to do later.
    Only I have to buy temperature sensors because such NTC or PT1000 what I have will not work with HA.
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  • #37 20993411
    Daro1003
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    Plan as many circuits as possible to the sockets better invest in cables.

    Now I would make more of them myself because of the photovoltaic type hybrid or disconnecting circuits for example for the computer or TV I would give separate circuits because of them to disconnect automatically at night or when no one is home. I have two TV's which are used to display images from the cameras and it turns out that one of them consumes 18W in standby so I installed a SP111 socket to switch it off (you can do it cheaper e.g. sonoff) I also wanted to study the energy consumed.

    This kind of treatment makes it necessary to disperse and mount individual devices rather than having everything in one place in the switchgear.
  • #38 20996683
    Berend
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    Good point, that's what I did, I have more than 40 electrical circuits alone (not counting roller shutters or cameras)
  • #39 20996917
    Daro1003
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    Sockets outside in soffit for lights ?
    Light sensors outside temp etc ?
    Coaxial cable to garage door drive aerial for improved range.
  • #40 20998550
    Berend
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    In these circuits I was referring to the classic 230/400 volts.

    This did not apply to tele-technical or temperature sensors

    I have yes.
  • #41 21007901
    Berend
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    Another change...

    Instead of a Carel PLC and Satel control panel, I will simply add a Beckhoff controller + Home Assistant.
  • #42 21008378
    Daro1003
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    In my opinion, it is a poor idea to give up Satel, but it is a typical alarm system with many useful functions, such as operation of code locks for doors, long-range remote control, GSM notification in the form of CLIP and SMS. An additional advantage is a certain stability, where no update causes confusion and certain functionalities work stably.
  • #43 21010969
    Berend
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    And so bad and so bad
    Not an easy thing to do.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the integration of smart home technology with traditional electrical installations, focusing on controlling electric roller shutters, lighting, and alarm systems. The user plans to implement a system that allows for both manual and automated control of 13 roller shutters, considering the use of applications instead of traditional switches. Recommendations include using Domoticz or Home Assistant for home automation, with specific mentions of Shelly 2.5 modules for roller shutter control and Sonoff devices for lighting. Concerns about the reliability and stability of wireless systems versus wired solutions are raised, alongside discussions about the durability of various devices. The conversation also touches on the potential for integrating temperature sensors and actuators for heating control, as well as the importance of planning sufficient electrical circuits for future needs.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 40-circuit star-wired switchboard, 14 roller shutters and ~120 IP/Wi-Fi devices can be automated with Home-Assistant plus Shelly/SONOFF for <€1 000 hardware, but “manual control must be” retained for reliability [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20868007]

Why it matters: early wiring decisions lock in future smart-home options.

Quick Facts

• Shelly 2.5 PM roller-shutter module: ~150 PLN, two channels, native % positioning [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20865963] • SONOFF Dual R3 after firmware flash: ~50 PLN per two relays [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20865963] • User run: 70+ ZigBee/Wi-Fi nodes on one router without dropouts [Elektroda, freebsd, post #20869453] • Reported failure: 3 / 14 Shelly 2.5 (21 %) died, 8 fixed by capacitor swap [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20990333] • Replacing 26 contactors with 13 Shelly units saves ≈0.8 m DIN-rail space [Elektroda, Berend, post #20865691]

Should I skip wall switches and rely only on the app?

No. In-room buttons give instant, fail-safe control when phones or Wi-Fi fail. "Manual control must be" kept [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20865963] A low-voltage push-button wired to a digital input costs <10 PLN and adds redundancy.

PLC or Home Assistant—what’s better for a house build?

Home Assistant (HA) on Raspberry Pi or mini-PC offers hundreds of ready integrations, auto-updates and community support. Users moved from Carel PLC to HA after hardware dropouts [Elektroda, Berend, post #20993048] PLCs shine in industrial IO density but need coding time and costly modules.

How does Shelly 2.5 achieve percentage roller-shutter positioning?

During calibration Shelly measures full up/down time and then drives the motor for a matching fraction of that time. Position errors self-correct after each full travel [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20865963] No extra sensors are required.

Are Shelly and SONOFF reliable long-term?

Expect some failures. One user lost 3 of 14 Shelly 2.5 in three years (21 %); another eight units needed capacitor replacement due to overheating [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20990333] Keep modules ventilated or choose DIN-rail Pro versions with improved power supplies.

Will 100+ Wi-Fi smart devices overload my network?

Modern routers handle ≈250 clients; a forum member runs 70+ devices with no issues after upgrading to an ASUS AP [Elektroda, freebsd, post #20869453] Use separate 2.4 GHz SSID for IoT and wired backhaul to reduce airtime contention [Cisco, 2021].

How do I integrate Satel Integra alarm with HA?

Add the ETHM-1 Plus Ethernet module and enable TCP. HA’s ‘satel_integra’ integration pulls zone states and lets detectors trigger automations [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20865963] Keep Satel as a certified security layer and let HA handle convenience logic.

Can Home Assistant drive wired thermoelectric actuators?

Yes. Pair a multi-relay board (e.g., SDM-16RO) via Modbus RTU; expose relays as climate entities. Use DS18B20/ESP32 room sensors and HA’s PID “generic_thermostat” to modulate loops [Home Assistant Docs].

What size switchboard do I need for 40 circuits and smart modules?

A 1 × 0.8 m cabinet fits ~14 DIN rows. Roller-shutter relays alone occupy 13 × 18 mm = 234 mm; leave 30 % spare for future PV, UPS or EV breakers [Elektroda, Berend, post #20987063]

How do I prevent blackout darkness?

Put a 12 V LED strip on Satel’s battery output. When 230 V fails, HA sees power-loss, and the panel lights the hallway for a preset time [Elektroda, freebsd, post #20870588]

Are dimmers worth installing?

Most users skip dimming; they rarely adjust brightness after novelty wears off and dimmers cost 2-3 × a relay [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20987893] Use tunable-white smart bulbs if mood lighting is essential.

How do I add a Shelly 2.5 to Home Assistant?

  1. Wire live/neutral and motor leads per diagram.
  2. Power up, connect to Shelly’s Wi-Fi AP, set your LAN SSID.
  3. In HA, Settings → Devices → Add Integration → Shelly. Device appears with two relays and position slider [Shelly Docs].

What edge cases should I plan for?

Modules may enter configuration mode after mains resets, causing blinds to move unexpectedly [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20990333] Install a physical key switch that kills shutter supply during vacations.

Which cable to run to window switches?

Route 3×1 mm² for motor power plus UTP or 8×0.5 mm² for future sensors; both terminate in the switchboard [Elektroda, Daro1003, post #20988360]
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