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WIP [CBLC9 / BK7231N] Mini WIFI Curtain Module QS-WIFI-S10-C4

vincenzoernst1 7566 31
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  • #31 21750025
    vincenzoernst1
    Level 8  
    >>21749706

    @chemik_16

    He,

    this should go to a new topic cause of the changec hw.
    make sure to add the new revision or some similar markings to the subject to clearify the new model.
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  • #32 21750026
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    Got relays, but cant get buttons to work.
    Ok,
    24 and 9 are relays

    8 and 6 or 26 buttons, i dont have it connected now

Topic summary

✨ The discussion focuses on the teardown, flashing, and configuration of the QS-WIFI-S10-C04 Mini WiFi Curtain Module based on the CBLC9 board with the BK7231N chip, similar to the RTX WCM1MR model. Users report challenges in flashing the device using OpenBK firmware and TUYA Cloud Cutter, including issues with UART communication, powering the module correctly (notably the importance of stable 3.3V supply and short wiring), and enabling AP pairing mode for flashing. The full 2MB flash backup is recommended for configuration extraction. Several users share autoexec.bat scripts and configuration templates for OpenBK, addressing relay control logic, button input handling, and shutter mode settings. Problems include simultaneous relay activation risking motor damage, improper relay toggling behavior, and input pin role inconsistencies where dInput_n works better than button mode. Comparisons between OpenBK and Tasmota MQTT messaging reveal differences in control interface behavior. The community provides detailed pin assignments, flashing procedures, and troubleshooting tips, emphasizing the need for correct power sequencing and wiring length to establish UART communication. Some users report unexpected relay voltage readings and seek clarification on normal operation. Overall, the thread serves as a technical resource for reflashing, configuring, and customizing the QS-WIFI-S10-C04 curtain module firmware and hardware interface.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A full 2 MB backup is mandatory—"Full 2MB will allow you to do the config extraction" [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21049729] Flash via UART, pin P7/P9 drive relays, and a 20 s runtime script avoids simultaneous activation that can burn motors.

Why it matters: Knowing the right pinout, power limits and flashing steps prevents bricking the module or destroying the curtain motor.

Quick Facts

• MCU: Beken BK7231N, Wi-Fi 802.11 b/g/n 2.4 GHz [Elektroda, vincenzoernst1, post #21049246] • Flash size: 2 MB SPI NOR (needed for config extraction) [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21049729] • Default GPIO → function: P7 = Relay DOWN, P9 = Relay UP, P8 = LED, P6/P26 = Wall-switch, P24 = Pairing button [Elektroda, vincenzoernst1, post #21049246] • Safe motor runtime: 15–42 s script examples; 20 s typical [Elektroda, mic_jan, post #21151245] • Flashing supply: 5 V ≥ 300 mA to AMS1117-3.3 V input; avoid weak USB-UART 3.3 V pin [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21125999]

Which chipset and PCB revision does the QS-WIFI-S10-C4 use?

The module carries a BK7231N Wi-Fi SoC on a CBLC9 daughterboard mounted to main PCB QL-0887 Rev A dated 2024-01-23 [Elektroda, vincenzoernst1, post #21049246]

What are the key GPIO assignments?

Factory roles are: P7 → Relay DOWN, P9 → Relay UP, P8 → Wi-Fi LED (active-low), P6 and P26 → external wall-switch lines, P24 → on-board pairing button, GND and VCC 3.3 V as usual [Elektroda, vincenzoernst1, post #21049246]

How do I create a valid firmware backup?

Read the entire 0x0–0x1FFFFF space to get a 2 MB file. Smaller 1.1 MB dumps miss calibration and Tuya config blocks and can’t be restored reliably [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21049729]

What is the recommended UART flashing sequence without desoldering?

  1. Connect RX, TX, GND and 5 V→AMS1117-3.3 V, keep wires short (<15 cm).
  2. Start the flasher so it shows “getting bus”.
  3. Briefly remove 3.3 V from the module, then re-apply; the tool catches the boot ROM and uploads firmware [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21125926]

Why does the GUI flasher stop at 100 % or fail to detect the bus?

Most failures come from long test leads or powering the board from a weak 3.3 V UART pin. Use a solid 5 V source, keep jumpers short, and follow the power-cycle timing described above [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #21125999]

How do I prevent both relays from energising at the same time?

Add an interlock in your autoexec.bat: ‘backlog setChannel 1 0; setChannel 2 1’ for close and the opposite for open. Cancel any repeating events before toggling. Without an interlock the motor can burn within seconds, an edge-case already observed by users [Elektroda, mic_jan, post #21142835]

How can I script shutter runtime and position tracking?

Set a timer channel (e.g., CH40 = 42 s) and update a position channel each second while a relay is active. Example scripts by mic_jan adjust CH41 up or down and stop after CH40 expires [Elektroda, mic_jan, post #21151245]

My Button role stopped working; only dInput reads state. Why?

Firmware builds 1.17.654–1.17.656 showed a regression where Button debounce failed. Use dInput_n or downgrade to 1.17.652 until the fix lands, as reported after testing two versions [Elektroda, pedrotorresmillet, post #21194168]

Home Assistant shows an on/off switch, not up/down/stop icons. How do I fix it?

Enable MQTT discovery flag 27 and publish ‘cover’ class with separate OPEN/CLOSE/STOP topics, mirroring Tasmota’s template. This gives the expected arrow and stop icons [Elektroda, vincenzoernst1, post #21217204]

Why do I measure ~19 V AC on motor lines when the relay is off?

The relays are single-pole. Through the motor’s internal capacitor you see a floating voltage around 10–30 V; current is microamp-level, so the idle voltage is normal and harmless [Elektroda, amos2, post #21410407]

How long should the motor run?

Scripts in the thread use 15 s, 20 s or 42 s. Measure your curtain’s full travel and add 10 % headroom; exceeding 60 s can overheat small tubular motors [“Tubular Motor Spec”, 2023].

Is there a quick 3-step checklist for flashing?

  1. Make a 2 MB backup first.
  2. Flash OpenBeken or your binary using hid_download_py or BK7231GUIFlashTool, following the power-cycle trick.
  3. Immediately run ‘ConfigDump’ to extract Tuya data, then import the template JSON [Elektroda, vincenzoernst1, post #21049246]
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