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Celma PRCb - retro drill from electro-junk - simple repair and teardown - is it worth it?

p.kaczmarek2 7641 43

TL;DR

  • A Celma PRCb single-speed, no-impact drill from electro-junk gets a full inspection, teardown, and repair after its worn nameplate and missing switch made it suspect.
  • The repair starts with meter checks for shorts or housing punctures, then gearbox inspection, brush removal, and a look inside a badly contaminated trigger switch.
  • The drill's trigger had no contact, one plastic part broke during disassembly, and the switch offered momentary operation plus a lock-in pin.
  • After cleaning with IPA and a sander, shortening overlong screws, and securing parts with glue, the drill powered up and worked again.
  • Replacement switches and brushes are available, but the drill remains a very basic on-off tool with no speed control, raising doubts about whether it's worth keeping.
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #31 21207203
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
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  • #32 21207206
    GrandMasterT
    Level 26  
    Posts: 1605
    Help: 69
    Rate: 195
    I inherited the green two-speed Celma from my father and the older metal one, but both were lost in action somewhere ("good practice - don't borrow"). All I have left of the old ones is the AEG UEB 12/15 zweihandbohrmaschine, which is supposedly only 150W.... However, these watts are stronger than today's ones, and I am afraid to use it with drills of larger diameters, because if it gets blocked, it can be difficult for the operator. No one borrowed this because it's hard to find a use for it, probably only as an agitator, but you may also have concerns about insulation - the whole thing is metal including the switch housing, the internal design of which doesn't look very inviting either.
  • #33 21207278
    MixeRaV
    Level 15  
    Posts: 105
    Help: 12
    Rate: 18
    I also have one from my father. It's mounted in a stand and does stationary. I have it connected via a speed controller. The machine is not worn out (I only replaced the brushes and grease in the gearbox). Continuous work is not a problem for it. It's a bit of a pity that Celma doesn't still produce, because it used to make good equipment.
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  • #34 21207424
    Michał_74
    Level 34  
    Posts: 2958
    Help: 184
    Rate: 611
    Hello.
    Someone wrote that in the new ones the electronics supposedly keep an eye on the power and don't slash your wrists.
    Rubbish.
    Someone also wrote at the beginning that this customs had 680rpm and the modern ones 4000rpm
    Here is the reason for its power. Gearbox.
    I would also add that I use something strange myself for mega holes. But it works. Mortar mixer 2 speed adjustable and fur 16.
    Maybe not precisely bale good grip and does the job.
    At one time I even made holes for garden posts fi 2500mm with it.
    Regards.
  • #35 21207446
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #36 21207676
    PPK
    Level 30  
    Posts: 1925
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    BBElektrotechnik wrote:
    398216 Usunięty wrote:
    It has and it goes with the power.

    Do I know. That drill had a power output of 300-400W and it was breaking hands. Today's appliances have wattages that go into kilowatts. A 2.5kW cordless mitre saw? No problem. Cordless drills exceed a kilowatt. But they have safety features. All you have to do is turn the drill quickly yourself and it shuts down. Some still have overload clutches.
    .
    But these are now mostly Chinese wattles. Just like the Chinese horsepower in cars and the Chinese mAh in 18650 rechargeable batteries.:)
  • #37 21207736
    andrzejlisek
    Level 32  
    Posts: 3636
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    strikexp wrote:
    Today you can buy a thyristor speed controller on allegro for a few tens of zlotys. (...) And a universal softstarter on allegro costs less than 20zl.
    .
    Do these softstarts and speed controllers work on the same principle as dimmable lighting only possible with ordinary incandescent or halogen bulbs? That is, behind the regulator, the voltage is a sine wave with clipped biases, making the rms value of the voltage lower? An incandescent light bulb will shine dimmer on such a thing, and discharge lamps and LEDs are not sure how they will work, as these are not designed to work with dimmers. I understand that an asynchronous motor on such a truncated sine wave works correctly.
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  • #38 21207905
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    Posts: 5683
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    andrzejlisek wrote:
    Do these soft starters and speed controllers operate on an identical principle to dimmable lighting only possible with ordinary incandescent or halogen bulbs? That is, behind the regulator, the voltage is a sine wave with clipped excursions, making the rms value of the voltage lower? An incandescent bulb will shine darker on such a thing, and discharge lamps and LEDs are not sure how they will work, because these are not designed to work with dimmers.

    Yes.

    andrzejlisek wrote:
    I understand that an asynchronous motor on such a truncated sine wave works correctly.
    .
    Not.
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  • #39 21207938
    andrzejlisek
    Level 32  
    Posts: 3636
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    I'm the one who doesn't seem to understand something.

    For the sake of clarity, here is a drawing I found on the internet of the voltage waveform that is on the bulb and the motor when a dimmer or regulator is used https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Regulated_rectifier.gif If the output of a speed controller is just such a truncated sine wave as shown in this drawing, and the device is used to power a variable speed motor, which motors is such a controller suitable for?

    Unless I am mistaken, there are only two types of AC motor:
    1. synchronous - its speed depends only on the frequency of voltage variation, such a motor will not start on its own, an auxiliary motor is used for starting or an inverter that smoothly changes the frequency of voltage variation.
    Asynchronous - its speed depends on the supply voltage and the load.
    I omit stepper motors because its power supply, control and application is a completely separate topic.

    I conclude from the above that there is an asynchronous motor in every AC drill.
  • #40 21208033
    Zbigniew Rusek
    Level 38  
    Posts: 3610
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    Asynchronous motors are in these large (stationary) drills - in industrial drills they are usually three-phase. Commutator motors are used in hand-held electric drills (i.e. portable hand-held drills), as the latter are much lighter and smaller for the same power than synchronous or asynchronous motors.
  • #41 21208280
    398216 Usunięty
    Level 43  
    Posts: 34020
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    Zbigniew Rusek wrote:
    (commutator motors are high speed
    .
    Series motors rather. Commutator motors which are currently used in screwdrivers use commutator motors with permanent magnets. The speed of such a motor does not depend on the existence of the commutator itself, but on its design - the number of rotor windings. In the case of a series motor (also a commutator motor), a lack of load may result in the motor "coasting" to such a high speed that the rotor windings may break down or the bearings may be damaged. It is true that in the case of series motors in drills, the load (sufficient to prevent the motor from coasting) is already introduced by the gearbox, but I would not advise switching on such a motor (especially a high-powered one) removed from a drill or other device without a load on the shaft. The drill motor is unlikely to run out even then, but its speed will certainly increase significantly.

    Added after 11 [minutes]: .

    Zbigniew Rusek wrote:
    (commutator motors are high speed
    .
    Series motors rather. Commutator motors which are currently used in screwdrivers use commutator motors with permanent magnets. The speed of such a motor does not depend on the existence of the commutator itself, but on its design - the number of rotor windings. In the case of a series motor (also a commutator motor), a lack of load may result in the motor "coasting" to such a high speed that the rotor windings may break down or the bearings may be damaged. It is true that in the case of series motors in drills, the load (sufficient to prevent the motor from coasting) is already introduced by the gearbox, but I would not advise switching on such a motor (especially a high-powered one) removed from a drill or other device without a load on the shaft. The drill motor is unlikely to run even then, but its speed will certainly increase significantly.
    Zbigniew Rusek wrote:
    Asynchronous motors are in these large (stationary) drills
    .
    Here it would also be appropriate to specify what kind of motor we are talking about - an asynchronous motor is, after all, a squirrel-cage motor - with short-circuited rotor windings, and it is a type of asynchronous motor which can be found both in a gramophone (e.g. the Bambino, as well as in table drills, but in the larger ones - stationary ones, because such a motor, compared to a series motor, has a much greater mass for the same power), but also in, for example, industrial fans with a power output of several tens of kW. An asynchronous motor is basically any DC voltage motor - in such motors, there can be no talk of synchronisation with the mains frequency, because there is no frequency in the mains supplying the motor. It is not even possible to talk about the dependence of the voltage on the number of revolutions, as this also depends on the load on the shaft.

    I know that I am simplifying and perhaps (certainly for professionals) confusing this, but let's remember that the forum is read also by young people who do not know all these dependencies, therefore if someone can systematise all types of motors in a kind of table taking into account the supply voltage, mechanical construction and all other performances and dependencies, they have a chance to prove themselves.
  • #42 21208303
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #43 21211953
    szeryf3
    Level 30  
    Posts: 2046
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    @p.kaczmarek2 beautiful monument you saved admittedly there are better ones now, but always what monument is a monument.
    Not one of us in the 1980s dreamed of such a technical wonder.
    There are a few of these drills at every major flea market.
  • #44 21213704
    jarekgol
    Level 40  
    Posts: 5116
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    I also have a metal one, it works, the fur is a bit rusty, but I rarely use it.
    The push-button speed control and overload clutch is nice though. As is the lighter weight.
    With that said, I rarely drill large holes in thick steel.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around the Celma PRCb, a vintage single-speed drill, focusing on its repairability and utility. Users express a strong sentiment for preserving old appliances, citing their durability and unique characteristics. The drill's power (380 W) and low RPM (580) are highlighted as advantageous for specific tasks, such as drilling into hard materials. Concerns about insulation degradation and the potential for short circuits are noted, along with suggestions for modern modifications like triac adjustable switches. Users share personal experiences with similar models, emphasizing the importance of regular maintenance, such as replacing brushes and capacitors. The conversation also touches on the historical context of Celma drills, their licensing with brands like Bosch, and the evolution of drill technology.
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FAQ

TL;DR: A 380 W, 580 rpm Celma PRCb can still be worth reviving if you want slow-speed drilling, mixing, or bench use. One expert-style takeaway from the thread is: "It has torque." This FAQ helps buyers, restorers, and hobbyists decide what to inspect, repair, replace, and avoid before regular use. [#21196458]

Why it matters: Old Celma drills can out-pull many modern high-speed tools, but their switchgear, insulation, and wrist-safety are much worse.

Option Speed / control Best use from thread Main drawback
Celma PRCb Approx. 580 rpm, simple on-off Large holes in steel, mixing, drill stand Heavy, strong kickback
Modern Bosch / Milwaukee Up to about 4000 rpm, electronic safety Everyday handheld work Less suited to slow heavy drilling feel
Celma in drill stand Slow, controllable with stand Bench-drill style work Lower portability

Key insight: The thread treats the Celma PRCb as repairable and still useful, but only after checking insulation, switch condition, brushes, cable, and operator safety. Its value is highest for slow, high-torque jobs, not routine handheld drilling.

Quick Facts

  • The most concrete thread figure is 380 W and 580 rpm, which users describe as unusually useful for slow heavy drilling compared with modern drills nearing 4000 rpm. [#21196458]
  • One user mixed adhesive for about 160 m² of wall insulation with this type of Celma, showing strong continuous-duty behavior in real work. [#21196495]
  • Owners report successful use with drill bits around 16 mm, enlarged 13 mm shanks, and even 20–30 mm holes in thicker material when held firmly. [#21196976]
  • Flea-market pricing mentioned in the thread is roughly 20–30 zł, which makes repair attractive if the motor, gearbox, and spindle are still sound. [#21197665]

How do you safely diagnose and revive an old Celma PRCb drill before first power-up?

Start with electrical safety checks, not the plug. 1. Measure for short circuits and any leak to the metal housing. 2. Open the gearbox and inspect gears, grease, brushes, and the switch. 3. Power it only after those checks pass. The original teardown followed exactly that order and found no short to the housing, healthy-looking gears, usable brushes, and a dead switch bypassed by a previous owner. [#21196249]

What usually causes the switch to fail in a vintage Celma PRCb drill, and how can you clean or rebuild it?

The switch usually fails because dirt blocks contact surfaces and the old mechanism stops closing the circuit. The teardown found a heavily contaminated switch with no continuity on a multimeter, then restored operation by cleaning with cloth, IPA, and light abrasion. The same switch had two modes: momentary action and a lock-on pin. Rebuilding worked, but the plastic cracked during disassembly, so buying a new switch was also shown as a valid fallback. [#21196249]

Which grease should be used in the gearbox of an old Celma drill, and how often is it worth replacing?

Use fresh gearbox grease, but the thread does not name a specific product or grade. The practical takeaway is to replace old grease when you open the drill and see aged lubricant, dirt, or dry gear surfaces. The teardown judged the gears mechanically sound but flagged the grease for replacement before regular use. That makes servicing condition-based, not calendar-based: open, inspect, and renew grease whenever contamination or age is obvious. [#21196249]

How do you check whether the brushes and brush pressure parts in a Celma drill still make proper contact with the commutator?

Remove the brushes and inspect both brush length and spring pressure hardware. One repair report found the switch damaged and the brush-pressure "washers" bent, so the brushes no longer touched the commutator correctly. Another owner reported replacing brushes three times over almost 40 years, which shows they are a normal wear item. If pressure parts are crooked or weak, contact becomes intermittent even when brush carbon still looks usable. [#21196495]

What is an anti-interference capacitor in an old drill, and why do users say it should be replaced before it explodes?

Replace it as preventive maintenance. "Anti-interference capacitor" is a suppression component that reduces electrical noise on the mains, usually mounted in older power tools near the switch or supply wiring, and age makes its dielectric unstable enough to fail violently. A user who often repairs old Celma drills explicitly advised replacing this capacitor first because these old parts "tend to explode from old age." [#21198298]

What is a series motor in drills like the Celma PRCb, and why does it produce such high starting torque?

A Celma PRCb uses a series motor, which is why it feels so strong at startup and under overload. "Series motor" is a commutator motor whose field winding is connected in series with the armature, giving very high starting torque and very high overload capability, but also making runaway speed and kickback bigger risks. One poster linked the Celma’s behavior directly to this motor type, its high starting torque, and the lack of protective electronics. [#21207203]

How can you add speed control to a Celma PRCb using a triac or thyristor regulator without ruining the motor?

You can add external control, but do not assume every method is equally safe for this drill. One experienced service-related post stated these aluminum Celmas were not suitable for use with the original speed-control switch and that motors burned. Another post suggested a triac adjustable switch from a newer drill, while later replies recommended cheap thyristor regulators or soft starters as external add-ons. The safest thread consensus is: keep the original motor healthy, use external control carefully, and avoid unsupported internal conversions. [#21203498]

Celma PRCb vs a modern Bosch or Milwaukee drill — which is better for large holes in steel, mixing mortar, and everyday safe use?

The Celma is better for slow heavy work, while modern Bosch or Milwaukee tools are better for routine safe handheld use. Users praised the Celma’s 580 rpm behavior for thick steel, mixers, and big bits, but multiple posts warned about wrist injuries and poor ergonomics. Modern Bosch and Milwaukee were cited for anti-rotation clutch and AUTOSTOP-style protection. Choose Celma for torque-heavy niche tasks; choose modern tools for daily drilling, safety, and comfort. [#21207446]

Why do old low-RPM drills like the Celma feel stronger than many modern high-speed drills even when the wattage looks lower?

They feel stronger because low speed, gearing, and overload behavior put more force into the cut instead of just rpm. Thread users contrasted roughly 580 rpm Celmas with modern drills near 4000 rpm and said the older machine handles big drills, hole saws, glue mixers, and thick steel more confidently. One poster also credited the gearbox directly for that feeling of strength. Lower listed wattage does not cancel higher usable torque at low speed. [#21207424]

What safety risks do old metal-body Celma drills pose for wrists, insulation, and work at height?

They pose real kickback, insulation, and shock risks, especially on ladders or roofs. Users described blocked bits twisting hands, twisting the whole drill body, and even spinning an operator with a ladder after the bit hit rebar. Another warning was insulation aging in very old tools, especially metal-bodied ones. These risks are worse because the Celma lacks modern anti-rotation shutoff, overload clutch behavior, and ergonomic control found in newer tools. [#21207136]

How well does a Celma PRCb work in a drill stand as a bench drill compared with handheld use?

It works very well in a stand and often makes more sense there than in handheld use. Multiple posters said the drill is strong, heavy, and awkward by modern standards, but very useful when fixed in a stand for stationary work. One owner keeps his mounted permanently, replaced only brushes and gearbox grease, and reports no issue with continuous operation. The thread repeatedly treats stand use as the best way to exploit the Celma’s torque while reducing handheld kickback risk. [#21207278]

Where can you still buy replacement parts for old Celma drills, such as switches, brushes, cables, and gearbox parts?

You can still find parts from Celma-related service channels, online listings, and the secondary market. The teardown itself showed a new replacement switch for sale, and the author also found brushes available. Another poster said parts could still be sourced from the company service center in Goleszów and from Celma’s web shop, including support around old machines. Practical thread items include switches, brushes, cables, bearings, and gearbox grease-related service parts. [#21203498]

What should you inspect in an old Celma drill’s wiring and insulation after decades of storage to avoid shocks or punctures to the housing?

Inspect the power cable, internal insulation, housing leakage, and any old plasticized wire first. The opener’s first test checked for short circuit and any puncture or leak to the housing with a meter before further work. Another repair-oriented post warned specifically about old anti-interference capacitors and old plastic power cords from the communist era. If the cable is stiff, cracked, or twisted from past abuse, replace it before regular use. [#21198298]

How do external soft starters, dimmer-style speed controllers, and autotransformers affect old universal drill motors?

They reduce effective voltage and can tame startup, but they are not the same as proper modern protection. The thread explicitly says dimmer-style regulators work by clipping the AC waveform, and later clarifies that handheld drills use commutator motors rather than asynchronous motors. One owner controlled inherited Celma speed with a TaR-1.6 or TaR-2.5 lab autotransformer, while another noted modern thyristor regulators and soft starters cost only a few tens of złoty or under 20 zł. [#21207905]

How do people source old drills and other interesting tools from electro-scrap, flea markets, and service leftovers when collection points do not allow retrieval?

They usually buy from flea markets, exchanges, service leftovers, or private owners rather than from restricted collection points. One poster said interesting tools cannot be retrieved locally from electro-waste depots, while another answered indirectly by mentioning many old drills at major flea markets. A collector also wrote that he cannot ignore examples priced around 20–30 zł at markets or exchanges. In practice, the thread’s sourcing channels are flea markets, swaps, inherited tools, and service contacts. [#21197665]
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