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Is it worth buying a cheap £90 KD1879 welder? My impressions and tests

teskot 9354 65
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • Hello.
    A few days ago a colleague sent me a link to a well-known auction site leading to a welding machine for less than £90. I don't think anyone with a bit of technical imagination could be so naive as to believe in the miraculous performance of the device. However, I decided to sacrifice the equivalent of 5 packets of cigarettes and buy this marvel marked KD1879.

    IGBT-330 inverter MMA welder with display and control knob.
    .

    The inscription IGBT-330 and the parameter declaration in the manual suggest that this is the maximum welding current at 60% cycle. I don't know if measuring with digital clamps would be reliable with such distorted waveforms, so I let it go for a while and focused on the purely functional qualities. First, of course, I took a closer look at the device.

    IGBT-330 inverter welder with a digital display set to 125 amps.
    Close-up of IGBT-330 welder display showing current parameters. Welder display showing a reading of 50 amps and welding mode icons. Welder display showing a reading of 50 amps and welding mode icons.

    The display is very easy to read and changing parameters via the push-button encoder is convenient. I then turned my attention to the leads, pleasantly soft and long enough. The electrode terminal holds firmly, as does the ground terminal.

    Close-up view of an electrode clamp with a copper wire in the KD1879 welder. Close-up of a welding machine's ground clamp on a wooden table. Close-up of a black electrical cable with TUV H01N2-D 1X12mm² markings on a wooden surface. Close-up of a cable labeled H05VV-F 3x1 mm². .
    Welding clamp on a wooden table. .

    The wires have a wicked cross-section, but they are copper. In my opinion, for this type of device the absolute minimum is 16 mm² on the secondary side and 3x2.5 mm² on the primary.

    Inside the welder you will find nothing interesting. Here, copper has already been abandoned in favour of aluminium both for the current leads and for the choke.

    Image of the interior of the KD1879 welding machine showing electronic components and wires. Close-up of a green printed circuit board inside a welding machine. .

    I am absolutely not a welder, no one has taught me to weld in my life, I've sloughed off maybe 2kg of electrodes, so I don't feel competent to comment on the end result. To the question of whether it works? Yes, it welds somehow.

    Close-up of a weld on a metal pipe, showing signs of unevenness and cracks. .

    Finally, impressions:
    1. I have to set a higher current than in the old Dedra 160A to get the same melt with the same electrode. I will do this weld on the photo (2.5 mm electrode) with the Dedra at a setting of 70-80 A, here I had to set 125 A, which makes me think that we are dealing with "Chinese amps".
    2 Either the non-contact arc ignition doesn't work, or I don't know enough. This is the first welder with this feature I've got to, so maybe I'm doing something wrong.
    3. the welder is extremely handy, lightweight, and so if it doesn't fail too quickly I'll be happy to take it on away jobs for those reasons. Of course, we're talking about simple jobs (on fences, gates and other lightweight structures) that I can handle myself without calling in a professional.

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    teskot
    Level 37  
    Offline 
    teskot wrote 2969 posts with rating 933, helped 420 times. Live in city Łódź. Been with us since 2002 year.
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  • #2 21262926
    0sp8plo
    Level 3  
    Hello, very interesting topic. I myself purchased a KD welder over two years ago, from a claimed 330 A the measured max was 145 A.
  • #3 21262970
    Andrzej Ch.
    Level 33  
    0sp8plo wrote:
    Hello, very interesting topic. I myself acquired a KD welder over two years ago, from a claimed 330 A the measured max is 145 A.
    .


    So Chinese "amps", as in everything they make, anyway.
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  • #4 21262994
    0sp8plo
    Level 3  
    >>21262970 .
    A little short of amps, I decided to purchase another one, but the same one was no longer available. I acquired a similar one, it turned out to be the same inside, I connected two in parallel on the plus side two russian diodes two minus directly to ground. The result max current 280 A, from the mains slightly goes beyond 25 A.

    Two inverter power sources IGBT side by side, with different labels on the front panels. .
  • #5 21263014
    teskot
    Level 37  
    I was fully aware that the parameters were overstated by a minimum of two times. As soon as I unpacked the box and saw the wires I was sure.

    On the other hand, let's be honest: how many times do you use such a high amperage when amateur welding small things? I recently welded a window grille in 30x4 flat bars and 10x10mm square bars. Truly, if I had had this toy back then it would have gone twice as fast, there would have been less tangle with rearranging the welder, pulling wires (the aforementioned Dedra has short and stiff wires).

    The consensus is that there are no one-size-fits-all tools, it's worth having such and such for different applications. It is important not to use a donkey to pull a Polonez out of the mud, but bringing in a tank is also pointless.

    I have deliberately left out here the moral issues involved in offering such devices with unreliable performance, that's not what this technical forum is about.

    I have not mentioned the details of the design of the electronics themselves at all. The main inverter works in push-pull topology, the secondary winding is also split so we have two double diodes on a common heatsink (cathodes connected). Plus an auxiliary inverter for the logic. I won't give you the names of the semiconductors because I didn't want to dismantle the device that much; moreover, everything is generously varnished, which effectively discourages reading their symbols. Well, but there is nothing to reinvent the wheel.

    PS.
    Aha, there is one problem with all these welders, which has been noted more than once on our portal. At maximum settings, the current drawn from the mains usually exceeds these 16 A, if only slightly or occasionally. Worse still, some retailers allow themselves to be told that the circuit protection to which the welding machine is connected is at least C 25 A. This should not be allowed. This should no longer be allowed...
  • #6 21263035
    0sp8plo
    Level 3  
    In total the whole thing cost me £300, a negligible cost, I moved the cables from an old 35mm welder. I have to say that in a dual configuration it works well. I would also add that the sound when welding is quite a loud swish, always on some construction site my colleagues would accost me as to what kind of equipment it is that gives so much.
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  • #7 21263171
    chemik_16
    Level 26  
    >>21262994 You probably don't need the diodes, they are galvanically separated on the secondary.
  • #8 21263243
    dawid192009
    Level 3  
    Well, when you buy a welder for £90 it's not much to expect, but still, better that than none at all. :p
  • #9 21263315
    gulson
    System Administrator
    Thanks for sharing the review. I didn't think prices had come down that much. And as recently as 20 years ago I was assembling the welder myself and winding the trafo myself. What a time.
    Send me a Parcel Post and I'll send a small gift.
  • #10 21263447
    E8600
    Level 41  
    I admit that such a topic was not expected. Is the author sure that the wires are copper and not just copper plated? Such welders have 120-140 A maximum. These functions on the display are probably a pic of water. The display is just to attract the customer in this product.
    @0sp8plo
    The idea of combining 2 welders is sensational, just watch how imitators will appear. Just out of curiosity, what maximum electrode has your colleague tested on such a "monster"? Would it be possible to weld an anvil? The only problem is where to power it from (one from myself, and the other with an extension cord from a neighbour, so as not to knock out the protections).
  • #11 21263512
    neo_84
    Level 15  
    All the cheap welders have inflated amps. I have a KD836 welder, to make it weld as well as a Spartus 210E at 60 amps, you have to set the current to 130 amps, on top of that the arc strike with the Spartus is a fairy tale, there is no way to stick the electrode, literally like rubbing a match on a scratch.
    The first thing you need to do with a cheap welder is replace the welding leads, as they are aluminium.
    I could be wrong, but it seems to me that this welder within £100 is doomed to fail, well unless someone uses 1 electrode once a year.
  • #12 21263617
    bialy
    Level 16  
    For the price, a very good machine. Ideal for allotment work where something needs to be "greased up" once every 3 years.
  • #14 21263655
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    teskot wrote:
    2. Either the non-contact arc ignition doesn't work, or I don't know enough. This is the first welder with this feature I've gotten to, so maybe I'm doing something wrong.
    .
    There is no such thing on this welder.
  • #15 21263660
    karwo
    Level 31  
    teskot wrote:
    I have not mentioned at all the details of the construction of the electronics itself. The main inverter works in push-pull topology, the secondary winding is also split so that we have two double diodes on a common heatsink (cathodes connected). Plus an auxiliary inverter for the logic. I won't give you the names of the semiconductors because I didn't want to dismantle the device that much; moreover, everything is generously varnished, which effectively discourages reading their symbols. Well, but there is nothing to reinvent the wheel.

    A classic layout in this type of device. Number of keys and rectifier diodes kept to a minimum. Transformer minimalist too, but what to expect from a device priced at a set of decent keys and diodes for these claimed amperages.
    Minimalist cables no wonder, as the price must be low. To tempt the customer there must be fab displays and 'paper' parameters.
    Used occasionally and stored away from moisture it is likely to work.
    The ground terminal looks "very professional" not to mention the place where the ring terminal with the cable is screwed on - the seller forgot to add the covered handle heating function....
  • #16 21263685
    teskot
    Level 37  
    The wires are copper, I distinguish copper from copper plated ones made of aluminium, steel or fibreglass (because I have seen those too). But the cross-section is as I wrote. What is aluminium is the wire on the choke and the connections between the board and the output sockets. The ground terminal obviously brings to mind Chinese starter wires, but it's actually much stiffer and with a stronger spring. Surely if I were to use it on a daily basis there are many things that could be improved.

    Regarding the aforementioned starter wires, a colleague calls them tongue-in-cheek 'safe'. They can be short-circuited or connected the other way round and no mishap will occur, apart from the possibility of getting your hands hot with them. :)

    The welder has "gone up in price" to £155, one of the forum users asked me for a link which is why I noticed it.
  • #17 21263726
    E8600
    Level 41  
    It got more expensive because the promotion was on allegro days (until Sunday). These bargains on welders have been appearing periodically lately, so it is not out of the question that it will be even cheaper on the next promotion.
    The undoubted advantage of such welders is the weight and size, there are even such tiny, practically pocket-sized versions.
    It is worth paying attention that there is a real, and not only on paper soft start, so that it does not blow fuses while charging capacitors.
  • #18 21263750
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl
    E8600 wrote:
    Make sure it is real and not just on paper soft start so that it does not blow fuses when charging capacitors.
    .
    This is something that probably everyone has. If not a resistor and relay circuit, then a thermistor circuit.
  • #19 21263778
    E8600
    Level 41  
    Reading the comments under other models of such welders, one can tell that the Chinese like to save money and can give no soft starter and knock out fuses several times before they start working normally. Perhaps this is due to the fact that the product in question was intended for a different market?
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  • #20 21263915
    rosomak19
    Level 23  
    I once bought a Kraft welder like this, for occasional snotting. As I was making a grape stand out of a profile, I thought I was about to grab that welder by the strap and.... it over the fence! I don't know, sometimes it has flashes of a good welder, that you can pewter some thin sheet metal bit by bit, only to immediately be unable to arc at all. Sometimes it can go out of arc while welding. A friend had a supposedly weaker similar one and somehow it welded better.
  • #22 21264061
    Macosmail
    Level 35  
    >>21262994 .
    I was also thinking of connecting cheap welders in parallel. They are basically current sources so theoretically no extra treatment is needed. You can connect via external chokes that are not inside.
    There is also rather nothing preventing you from connecting to different phases.

    I wonder how much it costs in production if the manufacturer, importer, retailer, state (tax) and even a well-known auction portal has high margins of around 10%.
  • #23 21264115
    jokercbi
    Level 12  
    Well, I even bought two at 84 PLN/pc.
    One for me and one for a friend. I paid 169 PLN for the two. There was this promotion Allegro Days . Without the promotion, such a one as I bought costs 197 PLN.

    RED Technic RTS10110 welding machine with accessories .

    And do you know what the eggs are?
    There is this welder in two versions of design. The cheaper one, the casing made of just metal sheets, currently costs 149 PLN, and mine, with additional plastics, which makes it nicer, costs 197 PLN. In the promotion, the cheaper one was at 89.99 PLN each, and mine at 95 PLN.
    People rushed like "navel lice" to buy the cheaper one, and when 120 people bought it and only 12 people bought "mine", suddenly "mine" was reduced to 84 PLN. But people were still buying the uglier one. I think it was out of momentum.
    In the end the poorer one was bought by more than 1000 people and the one what I have by about 540 people.
    The price is ridiculous. I read reviews before I bought it. It even comes with a mask (a poor one, but it's there) and a hammer brush.
    The weight of it is barely 2 kg!
    I had the shipping cost for free.
    A regret not to buy. A colleague has already tested it and delighted, the 3.25 electrode disappears in sight, that's how it welds.
    The cheapest welders of this type were at Allegro Days last week at 82 PLN/pc.

    But one important note - THESE SALE ARE LIMITED . Of this cheaper model my welders (for 89,99 PLN ) could be bought Only ONE SALE. Of this "my" model (originally for 95 PLN and later for 84 PLN/pc) the limit was to buy only TWO SQUARE.
    .
    The name, as the brand is not even mentioned here, of this one of mine is RED TECHNIC.
    I wouldn't buy Kraft&Dele as I've read quite a lot about them and it's total rubbish. It's cool looking but supposedly fails.
    Maybe mine is similar in construction, but at least the writing doesn't scare me. Maybe it's naivety, but somehow that's the way I look at it.
    In my opinion, it's worth buying for that kind of money. Fair quality welding cables alone cost approx. 160 PLN, so there is no option to replace the wires in such a cheap machine. You have to weld with what is included in its equipment.
    It is known that it is not suitable for "earning bread with it".
  • #24 21264370
    operator5wp
    Level 16  
    Replacing with decent wires in cheap Chinese kits always helps a bit. They give there aluminium wire painted and it looks like copper because of this it is light and flexible. Real cable has a stiffer cross-section and weighs more. I myself also have a cheap Kraft 330 welder which gives different values on the display than it should, only when I measured with a clamp meter do I know that the max amps are up to 140.
    You would probably need to set something in the display to make it indicate correctly. Bad parameters result in poor and ugly welds. Cheap stuff has that, but for amateurs they are just fine.
  • #25 21266116
    andrzejlisek
    Level 31  
    E8600 wrote:
    The only problem is to have where to power it from (one from myself, and the other with an extension cord from a neighbour so the protections don't get knocked out).


    It may be that such a set-up can only be used reliably where there is access to 3F power. On trips this will always be a problem, as not every property has 3F power, and if it does, there are not always two sockets close together either, each from a different phase, let alone a 3F socket, not everyone has one. Connecting a set of welders to two different phases will solve the problem.

    On the other hand, the welding itself in one pass usually lasts only a few seconds, so with a load of even 30 A, a typical B16 circuit breaker should be able to withstand this (provided there are no other loads on the same circuit at the time), only it is not clear how long the interval between successive welds has to last for the theoretical endurance time according to the graph of trip time against overload magnitude for characteristic B to count from the beginning.
  • #26 21266329
    szeryf3
    Level 29  
    Around the holidays I needed a welder for the allotment and as I looked to buy a new one, I found it took a couple of hundred to buy one.
    But after this article I will look into the welder described. £90 is ridiculous money for such a device.
    How many times will I use it in a year? Maybe once twice.
  • #27 21266355
    arekb81
    Level 30  
    It's better to add £100 and buy a slightly better one. I bought a Majster for about £200 on promotion.
    The leads are about 2 m long and it actually has a HOT START function (70 V resting voltage) and the arc ignites when the electrode is lightly touched.
    Apart from that, it has some kind of soft-start circuit, because even the 10 A fuse does not blow. When switched on, after a few seconds you can hear the relay snap.

    I recently got my hands on a Graphite welder for around £500.
    It turns out that in this more expensive one the weld is a little different, flatter, and the arc makes a different sound.
  • #28 21266456
    szeryf3
    Level 29  
    @arekb81 and which Majster welder specifically do you have in mind?
  • #29 21266459
    arekb81
    Level 30  
    I have the MP-0102 model.

    It weighs approximately 4 kg.
  • #30 21266673
    profbolek
    Level 13  
    [/quote]So Chinese "amps", as in everything they make, anyway[/quote].
    Not Chinese but Polish amps. We happen to buy similar products in China, the manufacturer gives real parameters, it is ours who wish to scale the display to a higher value. It is the fault of users who demand a 300 A welder for a few zlotys. You give the real parameters then you don't sell. It gets to the point that we have quoted a real power of 550 watts for water pumps (the competition goes up to 3750 watts!) and received a negative on allegro for "understating power consumption".
    A 250 A welder should be able to weld with a 5 mm electrode without any problem, this one is quoted with a max electrode of 4 mm....

Topic summary

Discussion revolves around the value of the KD1879 welding machine priced at approximately 90 PLN. Users share experiences, noting that the machine's advertised amperage is often overstated, with actual performance typically around 120-150 A. Many participants highlight the machine's suitability for occasional home use, particularly for light tasks, while cautioning about the quality of components, such as aluminum wiring instead of copper. Some users have successfully modified the machine or combined multiple units to achieve better performance. The consensus suggests that while the KD1879 may not meet professional standards, it is adequate for amateur welding projects. Concerns about misleading specifications and the overall reliability of cheap welders are also discussed.
Summary generated by the language model.
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