Lighting the wall behind the TV
Hello colleagues.
Using the TV in a dark room sometimes causes eye fatigue due to the brightness of the screen. This is no discovery - you can turn on the lamp and you're done.
You can also turn on the LED strip on the back of the TV and turn it off when you are finished watching. However, it is always an additional activity.
The project below concerns the automation of the above process.
The basic assumptions are:
1. Automatic switching on of the backlight when dusk falls.
2. Gentle and smooth brightening of the LEDs so that the viewers do not notice the moment of switching on.
3. A gentle fading after switching on the light in the room.
4. Maintaining the light for about 30 seconds. after turning off the TV - time to put the remote control down and get to bed (this is my case).
5. Non-invasive assembly that does not require interference with the TV circuits (warranty maintenance requirement).
I do not boast of photos here, because what is there to photograph. The device was built quite a long time ago and I did not think about DIY then.
I was once gifted with a damaged 24V / 2A power supply, which I managed to fix quite simply. Shapely and transparent design, importantly, the manufacturer regretted the silicone gel, making it easier for me to make changes.
Finally, the power supply and the driver fit into the housing, where I placed the necessary connectors on one side of it:
- mains power socket
- LED connection socket
- photoresistor socket
- potentiometer
From the opposite wall comes a cable terminated with a power plug, which powers the TV.
For lighting, I used the remains of LED strips that remained after some robots, just - they were different. The 24V part, the 12V part, cold and warm. Just right for such a purpose. In addition, an aluminum section in the form of an angle bar and a light strip is ready.
I attached the strip to the sheet metal TV casing using the existing screws that fix the sheet metal rear wall.
The photoresistor is placed under the screen so that it is not affected by its light.
This is actually so much about the description of the mechanical structure.
As for the electrical system, its expansion was a consequence of the implementation of the above-mentioned assumptions. It is, after all, nothing more than an extension of the well-known twilight switch.
In the end, the LED strips turned out to be too bright, so after finishing the works, I added resistors to balance the brightness of the background and the TV screen.
The LEDs visible in the diagram are small "fleas" mounted only to illustrate the logical states in the system. It allowed me to start the system faster and observe the operation on the table.
Using the TV in a dark room sometimes causes eye fatigue due to the brightness of the screen. This is no discovery - you can turn on the lamp and you're done.
You can also turn on the LED strip on the back of the TV and turn it off when you are finished watching. However, it is always an additional activity.
The project below concerns the automation of the above process.
The basic assumptions are:
1. Automatic switching on of the backlight when dusk falls.
2. Gentle and smooth brightening of the LEDs so that the viewers do not notice the moment of switching on.
3. A gentle fading after switching on the light in the room.
4. Maintaining the light for about 30 seconds. after turning off the TV - time to put the remote control down and get to bed (this is my case).
5. Non-invasive assembly that does not require interference with the TV circuits (warranty maintenance requirement).
I do not boast of photos here, because what is there to photograph. The device was built quite a long time ago and I did not think about DIY then.
I was once gifted with a damaged 24V / 2A power supply, which I managed to fix quite simply. Shapely and transparent design, importantly, the manufacturer regretted the silicone gel, making it easier for me to make changes.
Finally, the power supply and the driver fit into the housing, where I placed the necessary connectors on one side of it:
- mains power socket
- LED connection socket
- photoresistor socket
- potentiometer
From the opposite wall comes a cable terminated with a power plug, which powers the TV.
For lighting, I used the remains of LED strips that remained after some robots, just - they were different. The 24V part, the 12V part, cold and warm. Just right for such a purpose. In addition, an aluminum section in the form of an angle bar and a light strip is ready.
I attached the strip to the sheet metal TV casing using the existing screws that fix the sheet metal rear wall.
The photoresistor is placed under the screen so that it is not affected by its light.
This is actually so much about the description of the mechanical structure.
As for the electrical system, its expansion was a consequence of the implementation of the above-mentioned assumptions. It is, after all, nothing more than an extension of the well-known twilight switch.
In the end, the LED strips turned out to be too bright, so after finishing the works, I added resistors to balance the brightness of the background and the TV screen.
The LEDs visible in the diagram are small "fleas" mounted only to illustrate the logical states in the system. It allowed me to start the system faster and observe the operation on the table.
Comments
I was interested in the activation detection system. The calculations showed that a 70W load (actually a bit more) is needed for the transistor to work. Current televisions (especially those of smaller... [Read more]
Thank you for your insight. As for the 2? resistor, it is more than enough. It is true that there is a 55-inch TV set here, so the power is sufficient, but it is worth noting that even though the power... [Read more]
The resistor circuit is cleverly protected by two diodes. The voltage across the resistor will never exceed 1.4V. So increasing the resistance reduces the power dissipated on it. In principle, the system... [Read more]
I admit that I treated the detection system quite superficially, as the simplest part of the system. I stayed with the first solution that came to mind. You can actually do it in several ways, including... [Read more]
I suggest using the USB output. Voltage detection. For me, after turning on the TV, there is a voltage of 5V (Panasonic). [Read more]
For me (Panasonic TX-55EX620E) it also appears and I even initially considered using this signal. I successfully healed this idea when I woke up at night and noticed that despite the TV turned off, the... [Read more]
The two-year-old smart from Samsung and the connected drive actually behaved as if he wanted to work despite the TV turned off. But the connected LED light wouldn't shine when the TV was off. [Read more]
Respect for such an extensive analog circuit, although it is known - it could be done more easily on an AtTina. But I'm not talking about it - load detection - what for? There is voltage in the usb... [Read more]
I wrote about the madness in USB in # 7. I plan to use the optical link socket (he, he, he - for 2 years) for an audio amplifier. Unfortunately, there is a constant lack of time. The entire system was... [Read more]
Well, in my case, in Samsung, I attach an additional audio amplifier and backlight to USB. USB turns off after turning it off with the remote control. Perhaps not all USB ports in this Panasonic TV worked... [Read more]
Would a fuse in the circuit not improve safety? With a short circuit in the TV or worse, an overload on the diode and resistor, a lot of power will be emitted. [Read more]
Lighting for the TV is a nice idea, but only if you have an even wall (if the TV is hung on a wall bracket). I gave up at home, after the first start-up, although the coats were made solidly, with such... [Read more]
If you move the leds away from the wall, you won't see any unevenness. These are only visible when the strip is practically against the wall and shines sideways. [Read more]
It would definitely raise, but I consciously skipped this element knowing that it is already in the TV's power supply. Even if there was a short circuit in the TV power supply circuits before the... [Read more]
Yes, the fact that the lighting moves away, the problem decreases. [Read more]
I also noticed this phenomenon in my TV Samsung, and in addition in two 32 and 48 inch TVs. In both, I made a backlight, using the voltage from USB as control. It does not happen often, but at least once... [Read more]
He took me in ... in and I started to have ugly suspicions. In fact, quite rarely, but the TV is turned off with the remote control, from time to time it "activates" itself at night - the USB lamp. When... [Read more]
In a way, this is a solution, but not entirely satisfactory. Some time ago, there was a discussion here on the forum whether to disconnect the equipment from the network after stopping its use. Opinions... [Read more]
And on the contrary, the switched on equipment is exposed to overvoltage from the mains, consumes unnecessary energy and wears out, e.g. capacitors in converters, which then work very cyclically. I know... [Read more]