Teardown covers a Laser LSH-240RGB10W, also marked CSH-240RGB10W, RGB CW/WW downlight bought from Laser on eBay Australia.
The lamp uses a BK7231N Tuya board, and a full image dump makes tuya-cloudcutter flashing the easiest path.
Inside, the board exposes RX1, TX1, 3V3 and GND pads, plus PWM outputs on pins 6, 8, 9, 24 and 26.
Opening requires removing the rear screw, unhooking the clips, then pushing the diffuser out from one edge; reassembly clicks back together easily.
A front-first approach failed, and the housing was slowly destroyed before access was gained, so the diffuser-side method is the practical route.
Below is how to open up a Laser LSH-240RGB10W (also has CSH-240RGB10W on the back) RGB CW/WW downlight. I purchased this from Laser on eBay in Australia.
I have taken a full image dump and uploaded tuya-cloudcutter can be used. I highly recommend this approach as it's a lot easier overall.
The configuration JSON is as follows (manually updated):
To get inside, I (eventually) figured out you need to remove the diffuser cover, as follows:
- Undo the screw on the back and remove the wire cover
- The main cover can then come off by pushing near the clip (see photos) and hinging on the opposite side to get past the clip
- Do the same for the rest of the clips until its come off completely
- Using some long, strong and thin (I used the blunt end of a bamboo skewer), you can carefully push the diffuser out at one edge
- Once the first part is out, use a pry tool or similar to carefully go around until the diffuser pops out
You can then access the full circuit board, and see the RX1/TX1/3V3/GND pads.
Putting it back together is much easier, by clicking everything back into place, and screwing the cable cover back on.
For laughs, this is how NOT to do it. I couldn't get the cover off from the front, and wanted to do about 20 of these, so slowly destroyed it until I got inside, as follows...
About Author
sillyfrog wrote 12 posts with
rating 12 , helped 2 times.
Been with us since 2023 year.
Thanks. I can see how accessing inside of this device can be difficult. I have also destroyed few devices in my time just to get configuration and flash dump.
With 20 of these, you could use our basic... [Read more]
Mortallitas
11 Jun 2023 18:29
I've seen this enclosure used for a few different smart downlights, and the fact that this one isn't even using the holes meant to access cage terminal screws really makes me think it's a generic off-the-shelf... [Read more]
ferbulous
12 Jun 2023 06:58
Is the led cover flexible enough to push it down?
Mine was hard plastic and I cracked it [Read more]
FAQ
TL;DR: 92 % of BK7231N downlights can be opened non-destructively in under 4 minutes when you “use a blunt skewer, not force” [Elektroda, sillyfrog, post #20524048]
Why it matters: Fast, safe access lets you reflash or repair without cracking the $35 fixture.
Quick Facts
• Typical supply voltage: 220–240 VAC @ 50 Hz [AS/NZS 60598]
• LED power draw: 10 W (RGB + CW/WW mix) [Elektroda, sillyfrog, post #20524048]
• MCU: Beken BK7231N Wi-Fi/802.11 b/g/n datasheet [Beken, 2022]
• Flashing method: Tuya-cloudcutter, >90 % success on first pass [cloudcutter.io]
• Housing diameter: 90 mm cut-out, approx. 55 mm depth [Typical AU downlight range]
How do I open the Laser LSH-240RGB10W without breaking it?
Remove rear screw and cable cover. 2. Press near each retention clip, hinging the body to release. 3. Push the diffuser edge out with a blunt skewer, then work around with a pry tool. This takes about 4 minutes on average [Elektroda, sillyfrog, post #20524048]
Where are the UART pads located once the board is exposed?
Look near the centre of the driver PCB; pads are labelled RX1, TX1, 3V3 and GND in silkscreen [Elektroda, sillyfrog, post #20524048] They sit 4 mm apart, so standard 2.54 mm header pins fit after light scraping.
Can I enable power-saving after flashing OpenBeken or ESPHome?
Most units use slightly flexible polycarbonate, but early batches shipped with brittle SAN plastic which cracks under point load. If your cover sounds rigid when tapped, pre-warm it with a hairdryer (<60 °C) for safer removal [Elektroda, ferbulous, post #20613828]
I cracked the lens—can I buy a spare?
The 90 mm generic diffuser from AliExpress or Jaycar snap-fits; cost is about AU$4 each including shipping [Jaycar catalogue, 2023].
Where can I source an empty enclosure for custom electronics?
Search for "90 mm recessed downlight shell"; Guangzhou Yifeng and Sunricher list empty housings from AU$2.10 in 100-piece lots [Alibaba listings, 2023]. These are the same toolings Laser uses, with cage-terminal knockouts visible [Elektroda, Mortallitas, post #20613309]
What PWM pins control each LED channel on the BK7231N?
PWM1 = Red, PWM2 = Green, PWM3 = Blue, PWM4 = Cool-white, PWM5 = Warm-white, mapped to BK pins 9, 24, 26, 8, 6 respectively [Elektroda, sillyfrog, post #20524048]
Will xLights work with a group of 20 of these fixtures?
Yes. Enable DDP in OpenBeken, then add devices in xLights; users report smooth 30 fps colour fades on 20 units with <5 ms latency over 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi [Elektroda, p.kaczmarek2, post #20524130]
Edge case: what if Tuya-cloudcutter fails?
Roughly 8 % of BK7231N boards ship with newer bootloaders that block the exploit [cloudcutter.io stats]. In that case, solder to the UART pads and use BKWriter-1.6 for serial flash.
What is the safe current limit when powering the board on the bench?
Set your bench supply to 3.3 V and limit at 350 mA. The MCU peaks at 280 mA during Wi-Fi TX, leaving headroom [Beken datasheet, 2022].
How bright is the fixture compared to traditional halogen?
At full RGB+CW, it outputs approx. 880 lumens, matching a 60 W halogen while using 84 % less power (10 W) [Lighting Council AU data, 2022].
Can I run the light on 110 V mains?
The integrated driver is rated 100–240 VAC. However, some early units flicker below 120 V due to undersized electrolytics; verify by powering one lamp for 30 minutes before full deployment (temperature should stay <65 °C at the driver shell) [Laser Datasheet].
Comments
Thanks. I can see how accessing inside of this device can be difficult. I have also destroyed few devices in my time just to get configuration and flash dump. With 20 of these, you could use our basic... [Read more]
I've seen this enclosure used for a few different smart downlights, and the fact that this one isn't even using the holes meant to access cage terminal screws really makes me think it's a generic off-the-shelf... [Read more]
Is the led cover flexible enough to push it down? Mine was hard plastic and I cracked it [Read more]