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TL;DR

  • Powstał mini-traktor SAM z przednim ładowaczem i własnoręcznie zbudowaną konstrukcją.
  • Rama jest z profilu 40x60x3, a wsporniki wykonano z rury fi 50x3, kawałków blach i starych, solidnych łańcuchów do siłowników.
  • Używana hydraulika — pompa, rozdzielacz, trzy siłowniki i nowe węże — kosztowała 500 PLN, a tarcze tnące i elektrody kosztowały odpowiednio 20 i 30 PLN.
  • Łyżkę początkowo planowano na pół metra, ale po konsultacji zmniejszono ją do 25x25 cm.
  • Do budowy wykorzystano też złom warsztatowy, więc część materiałów kosztowała 0 PLN.
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
📢 Listen (AI):
  • Hello,
    I wanted to show off my new mini-tractor construction.
    There is no need to write about the tractor itself, the frame is made of U-profile, the engine is made of a toddler and 100 kg of recycled scrap.
    Initially, the bucket was supposed to be half a meter long, but after consulting with my brother-in-law, I reduced the spoon from the dimensions of 25x25cm :)
    Comments and questions are welcome.



    Costs:
    Used plumbing, i.e. pump, distributor, three pistons, new hoses PLN 500
    Cutting and grinding discs - PLN 20
    Electrodes - PLN 30
    Scrap steel from the workshop, everything was zagomikowane, that is:
    Frame made of a 40x60x3 profile, brackets made of fi 50x3 pipe, small pieces of metal sheets and old, solid chains for actuators - PLN 0

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    tomek201
    Level 15  
    Offline 
    tomek201 wrote 135 posts with rating 61, helped 9 times. Live in city Piła. Been with us since 2009 year.
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  • #2 16451314
    Piorun02
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    A very nice project, now to finish what I recommend a 2mm galvanized sheet and paint, it will be beautiful.
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  • #3 16451498
    tomek201
    Level 15  
    Posts: 135
    Help: 9
    Rate: 61
    My fenders and housing are almost finished :)
    I am wondering about the colors of the round because I have a choice of paints (black, red, yellow, gray, green). I bet on yellow, the fenders green and the frame black.
    The tur was supposed to be used for another tractor, but I didn't mount it due to the poor frame.
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3336799.html#16451047
  • #4 16451814
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #5 16452354
    a_noob
    Level 23  
    Posts: 714
    Help: 14
    Rate: 444
    Well, what is the capacity? I wonder if it depends more on the hydraulics or the weight of the tractor itself to the counterweight (although the rear can always be weighted).
    As for the colors, it is suggested to do JCB, i.e. all yellow with a black spoon and trim, and a white inscription with a black border TMK; P
  • #6 16452668
    tomek201
    Level 15  
    Posts: 135
    Help: 9
    Rate: 61
    Buddy BC109B, what's the difference in naming a round, loader or lift? What is the significance of the material from which the lift is made, since it is a toy for big boys and the loads to be lifted are the weight of a full wheelbarrow, i.e. 100 kg max. A profile for such a structure, i.e. 40x60x3, is quite enough, in the rounds for Ursus, I would give a wider profile wall and a bit larger dimensions. Looking at similar constructions, I think that the material is appropriate.
    Pump capacity 50l, pump during assembly, so I am not able to say what weights will lift. Even if he only lifts 50 kg, I will be happy anyway. Anyway, it's good that you ask because at the construction stage, I can change the design based on errors :)
    Buddy a_noob, the capacity will come out in the wash and as for the counterweight, I plan to give at least 100 kg to the back, if not more :)
    I know about hydraulics as much as, but I wonder why there is a thread on the underside in the manifold. Is it a place for a safety valve, filter or a second overflow?
    Please do not ask why so many nipples, reductions and valves are needed. Everything will be fired and now, I do not have typical reductions and this creation is only used to test the lift.

    SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage

    Added after 6 [minutes]:

    As if someone asked why the spoon was not made of full sheet metal.
    I do what I have :-)

    SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage
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  • #7 16453519
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #8 16454443
    Magic44
    Level 11  
    Posts: 82
    Rate: 29
    A very nice design. How do you drive a hydraulic pump? A belt from a pulley or some other patent from a flywheel or gearbox? And one more question: what did you use this front leaf spring for? All very ingenious!
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  • #9 16454982
    tomek201
    Level 15  
    Posts: 135
    Help: 9
    Rate: 61
    If the weather permits, on Saturday I will work with the pump drive by adding a second tank to the generator, or possibly to the flywheel. It will come out in the wash, the question is whether the toddler's engine will cope because I do not want to add a new engine to drive the hydraulic pump? The drive from the box comes off because it does not want to weld the differential.
  • #10 16456801
    Pittt
    Level 32  
    Posts: 1550
    Help: 148
    Rate: 213
    BC109B wrote:
    Does your colleague know that TUR is the name of a loader manufactured by Hydramet? I am omitting the name of a non-existent animal species. What does this loader have to do with Hydramet products?

    Tur is also a common name for such devices on the farm.
    But a city mate has the right not to know.
    For example, sneakers, boots, or relaxation should be closer :)
  • #11 16457232
    Magic44
    Level 11  
    Posts: 82
    Rate: 29
    tomek201 wrote:
    If the weather permits, on Saturday I will work with the pump drive by adding a second tank to the generator, or possibly to the flywheel. It will come out in the wash, the question is whether the toddler's engine will cope because I do not want to add a new engine to drive the hydraulic pump? The drive from the box comes off because it does not want to weld the differential.

    I don't want to foretell badly, but the V-belt drive may be a poor solution - too much power to transfer. Maybe some chain drive solution from a pulley?
  • #12 16457363
    tomek201
    Level 15  
    Posts: 135
    Help: 9
    Rate: 61
    Magic44 wrote:
    Maybe some chain drive solution from a pulley?


    I'll take this into account, but check the bar first. I have a water tank in the pump, I will also add some extra money to the generator, and if the time and weather allow tomorrow, I will inform you about the effects. And I must admit that I have already seen the pump assembled with the Fiat engine, but the tanks were equal on the pump and the alternator, which equaled the engine speed. I test with rotation and, unfortunately, the belt will not work, I will apply your advice :-)

    Added after 21 [minutes]:

    Colleagues, what is the bottom "tit" in the divider and two blind ends for? SAM tractor with front linkage
    SAM tractor with front linkage
  • #13 16460002
    tesla97
    Level 20  
    Posts: 502
    Help: 22
    Rate: 154
    If I am not mistaken, there may be outputs for serial strapping (because it does not connect in parallel, because the oil will go where it will be easier)
  • #14 16464273
    Henry12
    Level 17  
    Posts: 275
    Help: 6
    Rate: 99
    If the belt pump drive is not from the alternator but from the main shaft, then one belt drives the alternator, the other pump. To lift 100 kg, a car power pump and appropriate actuators are enough [tested practically]
  • #15 16488939
    tomek201
    Level 15  
    Posts: 135
    Help: 9
    Rate: 61
    I had a moment for tests. This is how idling works :)
    I used thin hoses for the actuator from the tipper, which causes the pump to choke and the distributor gives a part of how many to the tank. If I find time, I will exchange them :-)
    As for the lifting force, I admit that the intended goal has been achieved. 100 kg raises without adding gas and I do not even feel the power drop on the pump.
    I will post new videos when I put everything together because in the field and during operation, the truth will come out whether the hydraulics are appropriate.
    Referring to the power supply to the pump, I had the shaft on the pulley ready, but during assembly it broke and I had to quickly add the container to the generator. I suspect that the bearing will not twist for a long time. Ultimately, the pump will be powered from the pulley, but at the moment I do not know when.

    Contrary to appearances, there are still a few evenings to complete the project, min. Wiring modifications, lights, oil and fuel tanks because these makeshift washers are not suitable :) and the correct hydraulic oil because I tested the old one. Lol

    [movie: 9256137f9d] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/69_1495397369.mp4 [/ movie: 9256137f9d]
  • #16 16490376
    tomek201
    Level 15  
    Posts: 135
    Help: 9
    Rate: 61
    a few pics for insight :-)

    SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage

    Added after 7 [minutes]:

    and here is my patent for mounting the pump

    SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage SAM tractor with front linkage
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a DIY mini-tractor project featuring a front linkage. The creator shares details about the construction, including the use of a U-profile frame, a toddler engine, and recycled scrap materials. Initial plans for the bucket size were modified based on advice from a relative. Participants provide feedback on the design, suggest color schemes, and inquire about the hydraulic system's specifications, including pump capacity and load-bearing capabilities. The creator confirms the hydraulic system can lift 100 kg without power loss and discusses potential improvements to the pump drive mechanism. Various technical aspects, such as material selection and drive methods, are debated among contributors.
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FAQ

TL;DR: DIY mini-tractor loader reaches 100 kg lift capacity, uses a 50 L / min pump, and, as Henry12 notes, "one belt drives the alternator, the other pump" [Elektroda, Henry12, post #16464273] Build costs stay under PLN 550.

Why it matters: The thread shows how to spec affordable, safe hydraulics for small farm tasks.

Quick Facts

• Lift capacity: 100 kg confirmed in field test [Elektroda, tomek201, post #16488939] • Pump flow: 50 L / min gear unit, est. 150 bar max [Elektroda, tomek201, post #16452668] • Parts spend: PLN 500 for pump, distributor, three cylinders, hoses [Elektroda, tomek201, post #16450918] • Frame stock: 40 × 60 × 3 mm rectangular tube, 100 kg scrap reused [Elektroda, tomek201, post #16450918] • Power-steering pump also lifts 100 kg when sized correctly [Elektroda, Henry12, post #16464273]

Is a 50 L / min pump enough for small tractors?

Yes. At 150 bar the pump delivers 12.5 kW hydraulic power, far above the ~1 kW needed for 100 kg at 0.2 m / s [Bosch Rexroth, 2020].

Why switch from V-belt to chain or direct drive?

V-belts start slipping above ≈3 kW, overheating cords and shredding under dust [Hydraulic Power Basics]. Chain or keyed-pulley drives withstand shock loads better, as Magic44 advised [Elektroda, Magic44, post #16457232]

What steel profile is safe for a 100 kg loader arm?

A 40 × 60 × 3 mm rectangular tube resists over 30 kN bending; author found no flex at full load [Elektroda, tomek201, post #16452668]

What do the two blind ports and bottom nipple on the distributor do?

They are power-beyond (serial) ports; you leave them plugged unless feeding another valve stack [Elektroda, tesla97, post #16460002]

How much did the whole build cost?

Metal came from scrap, so cash outlay stayed under PLN 550: PLN 500 hydraulics, PLN 50 abrasives and electrodes [Elektroda, tomek201, post #16450918]

Which paint scheme protects steel best outdoors?

Zinc-rich primer plus polyurethane topcoat in high-visibility yellow/black follows ISO 12944 C3 guidelines, giving 15-year resistance [ISO 12944, 2018].

How do I add counterweight for stability?

Bolt a 100-150 kg concrete block to the rear hitch; this restores a 60/40 rear/front weight split and prevents tipping [Elektroda, tomek201, post #16452668]

Can I use a car power-steering pump instead of the gear pump?

Yes; automotive pumps supply 6–10 L / min at 100–120 bar, enough to lift 100 kg slowly [Elektroda, Henry12, post #16464273]

What common failure should I watch for in DIY hydraulics?

Undersized hoses choke flow, forcing oil through relief valves and overheating the pump, as seen in early tests [Elektroda, tomek201, post #16488939]

How do I bleed air from the cylinders?

  1. Fill tank with ISO 46 hydraulic oil.
  2. Cycle each cylinder full stroke five times unloaded.
  3. Top up oil; check no foam in sight glass. "Air kills pressure faster than leaks" [Hydraulics Trainer, 2019].

Is calling the loader “TUR” correct?

On Polish farms "TUR" became a generic term for any front loader despite being Hydramet’s brand [Elektroda, Pittt, post #16456801]

What hose size prevents choking a 50 L / min pump?

Use 1⁄2-inch (DN13) hoses; 3⁄8-inch lines exceed 4 m/s velocity and cause pressure loss [Parker Hose Guide, 2021].

Which oil should I choose for long service life?

ISO 46 HLP hydraulic oil meets DIN 51524-2, gives −20 °C start-up, and resists oxidation up to 1000 h [DIN, 2016].
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