Digital panel meter - Voltmeter / Ammeter - made in China.

Did you buy it from a Chinese?

Yes, I think it costs $ 7.5

Hello forum members. I chose the most radical solution. After starting the module [it worked], I decided to take it apart - easy. I removed the factory current measurement pins, replaced them with a slightly slimmed 2.5 square cable, and immediately extended it directly to the current shunt in the module. Eight amps lasted for an hour quietly. Nothing gets hot, indications ok.
Unfortunately, a small one appeared? problem. As I wrote earlier, a rectifier based on a 17V transformer + Reg-Pro4 thyristor regulator. the rectifier works very nice, and good. The problem appeared with current measurements. The ammeter, when loaded with a light bulb or a resistor, has even too accurate indications - indications tolerance of 5%. Miracles begin when the battery is connected. The voltmeter works perfectly, the ammeter up to 2.5A too. After exceeding this threshold, the ammeter begins to lower the indications, and significantly. With the actual current of 8 A, it shows only 3.8 A. Where to find the cause?

Hello colleagues. After reading many posts in the rectifiers section, I decided to insert a smoothing capacitor in front of the ammeter. Well, unfortunately it helped, the ammeter started to show correctly when connecting the battery. Unfortunately, because the 4700microF capacitor is very effective in disrupting the charge voltage disconnection threshold, adding a parallel R doesn't do much either. The only option is to interfere with the measuring system - soldering the capacitor in the appropriate places of the A meter itself. These ammeters are not suitable for work with thyristor systems. However, one thing still puzzles me - why the rectifier is loaded with a resistor [the ammeter indications are good in the full range from 0, to 9 A], and after connecting the battery, the indications up to the 2.5 A threshold are correct, and above this threshold - lime. After Christmas, I'll get an old Soviet oscilloscope from the basement and take measurements.
For all Forum members - I wish you healthy, happy and cheerful holidays. Wet Dyngus! And do not drive a car after drinking alcohol.

kot mirmur wrote:

However, one thing still puzzles me - why the rectifier is loaded with a resistor [the ammeter indications are good in the full range from 0, to 9 A], and after connecting the battery, the indications up to the 2.5 A threshold are correct, and above this threshold - lime.

I suppose it may be related to the current waveform associated with the voltage that forces its flow. When loaded with a resistor, the current waveform is a reflection of the forcing voltage waveform of the rectifier. When connecting the battery to the rectifier, the current flows only when the voltage exceeds the voltage of the rectifier - the current diagram is such mounds protruding above the zero line. On the other hand, why, up to the 2.5 A level, they are only correct, no explanation comes to my mind. I noticed a similar phenomenon in the topic using a similar module when charging the battery, but it was the opposite, that the module showed 2.7A current and the ammeter showed zero, here is the link https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic.html p = 17136053 # 17136053

I read it, buddy Gimak, in fact, I probably looked through almost everything possible from these threads. In my life, I would not buy this crap if I knew how much time I would have to spend on getting it to work properly. I suggested earlier work with even much larger rectifiers - even with start-up, repair and modernization functions. They were also based on thyristor drivers. But for them I bought domestic measuring modules. Unfortunately, the price does its job. Anyway - the oscilloscope will be used - after all, that's what it is for. It needs to be warmed up a bit, the year was not fired. I'm not worried about its content - this is a military version, after 15 minutes of warming up it is very stable. Merry buddy!

Unfortunately, the oscilloscope measurements were unsuccessful, no power cord. This is how women do the cleaning themselves. It took a while to act. That unfortunate meter is> dsn-vc288. The current measuring input is on the 5th leg of the lm358 system. After inserting C between it and the ground of the system, the ammeter started to work properly. The capacitor is 10 micro / 50V. Why such? - I had one at hand. The most important thing is that the measurement system works correctly, regardless of the type of load and the current flowing through it [from 0.1 to 8 A].

My copy lowers the ammeter measurements and starts showing from about 0.35 amps (in fact it is 0.70 amps. Accuracy is shocking. Most likely I'll sand the shunt a bit.

And I got a pretty good copy. After calibration with potentiometers, it shows quite accurately and practically from scratch. It is wrong with max 0.1V on voltage, and it distorts in the range of +- 10% on current. The greatest deviations are in the lower and upper amperage range.

Friends ElectroTom and The Szyszkownik Kilkujadek , please take clear photos of your "meters" from the PCB side, maybe you will see some differences.

For now I'm away from home, when I go I will take pictures. Out of curiosity, I will buy three more such devices from different suppliers (unfortunately it will take a while). In my case, the voltmeter is flawless, but I meant mainly an ammeter (exactly a milliammeter).

I forgot my colleagues to write, when trying to repair my V / A module, the original current measurement shunt was completely removed from the PCB, and replaced with a completely different, handmade one. But basically it was a purely cosmetic procedure (no confidence in the manufacturer). There are prints of models on the tiles, let your colleagues praise them.

Although not asked, I am enclosing the reverse of my Chinese.

I will add an interesting video about the meter that is worth watching.

Apart from the music (heard), I only saw a dark screen.

I'm playing with AllPlayer and it's OK.
Windows Media Player also displays correctly.

Freddy wrote:

I will add an interesting video about the meter that is worth watching.

The video is damaged.

Nothing is damaged, the movie works.
Please in another format again.

VLC media player plays the entire movie normally.

Now I watched, interesting indeed, but in my "No name" modules there is a completely different connection layout and arrangement of elements. Maybe it will be helpful in starting a module in which one module has a 3V zener and I don't know what else, because when I gave the 3V voltage behind it, the display is still dead.

And it will not be possible to upload this movie to youtube?

My failed module

ElectroTom wrote:

My failed module

Scheme:

I bought two such meters ... and they don't want to work at all Will connecting the power supply only cause the meter to light up? I connect 12-13V and nothing
Ie. minus to thin black and plus to thin red. Am i doing something wrong?

The ammeter measures the DC current correctly and not the distorted battery charging current.

You basically do everything right, buddy Frred. After supplying power to these two cables, the display should work - it will show only zeros. And what did you get the supply voltage from? Check with the meter that there is power on the LM chip - leg 4 and 8. You have the diagram in previous posts.

Thank you cat mirmur It's all right now, it's working. My mistake was to connect the power supply from a simple power supply with a bridge, without any electrolyte. And the meter did not consider it a direct current Connecting the capacitor corrected the situation. Everything is fine and buzzing (i.e. it lights up in color). Thanks for the hint.

Hi.
I bought this meter:

https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/32824062417.ht...99734.0&scm_id=1007.133-39-39-9.0&scm_id=1007. -434e-b9ff-df0635fef9ca
You can see some unsuccessful copy, the voltmeter had to be pulled up a bit, but it's nothing compared to the ammeter. Once it shows the current flow and once it shows only zeros. I have no idea what's going on. Has anyone had a similar problem?

Perhaps there is poor contact somewhere in the measurement circuit I. Check the connectors on the thick cables. If it doesn't help, then improve February on the large socket and on the shunt / this thick wire on the pcb /. There is a schematic attached in post # 53.

Thank you for the info, I'll take care of these connections, and check February as you were.