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Digital panel meter - Voltmeter / Ammeter - made in China.

CMS 34569 90

TL;DR

  • A cheap Chinese panel meter combines a voltmeter and ammeter in one neat housing.
  • It measures 0-100V DC, and two tiny trimmers let you calibrate it after unpacking.
  • The seller quotes 1-10A, but this copy already starts at 0.01A and showed about 20mA error at 200mA-300mA.
  • It costs about PLN 6.
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • #91 21395902
    Galareta
    Level 23  
    Rather, you always have a shunt separately. How would you like so many A's through these cables as hair let loose?
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion centers on inexpensive Chinese digital panel meters combining voltmeter and ammeter functions in a single panel, typically costing around PLN 6 to 30. These meters measure DC voltage up to 100V and current in the 1-10A range, with some models supporting automatic range switching. Users report variable accuracy, especially in current measurement at low and high ranges, and non-linear voltage readings. Common issues include LED segment burnout, unstable readings at low currents, and significant measurement errors when charging batteries with thyristor-based rectifiers due to waveform distortions. The ammeter input wires are often too thin, causing voltage drops and overheating; upgrading to thicker wires or direct soldering to the PCB is recommended. Some meters lack pre-soldered current shunts, requiring users to install appropriate shunts with a 75mV voltage drop at rated current (e.g., 10A or 50A). Calibration using potentiometers can improve accuracy. Negative voltage measurement is generally unsupported, but users seek simple circuits to enable this. The meters are sensitive to grounding schemes; connecting measurement and power supply grounds improperly can damage the device. Adding smoothing capacitors across the ammeter input can stabilize readings but may interfere with thyristor regulator thresholds. Variability between units is high due to inconsistent manufacturing and undocumented design changes. Alternative models like the D85-3051AG offer larger displays and better readability at higher prices. Users share photos and schematics to aid troubleshooting. Overall, these Chinese meters are considered suitable for amateur or workshop use where cost is critical, but not for precise or professional measurements without modification and calibration.
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FAQ

TL;DR: After a 2-minute trim the Chinese 0-100 V / 0-10 A panel meter reaches ±2 % accuracy [Elektroda, koala106, post #17118384]; “worth the money” [Elektroda, h3c4, post #17117098] Calibrate two onboard trimmers, mind a 75 mV shunt, avoid reverse polarity. Why it matters: A €2 gadget can become a trustworthy lab readout when you know its limits.

Quick Facts

• Measurement range: 0–100 V DC & 0–10 A DC [Elektroda, CMS, post #17116791] • Power requirement: 4–30 V, ≥100 mA [Elektroda, CMS, post #17116791] • Typical post-cal accuracy: ±2 % of reading [Elektroda, koala106, post #17118384] • Cost at purchase: PLN 6 (≈ US $1.70) [Elektroda, CMS, #17116791; mariomario, #17117318] • LED lifespan: some fail after 6 months, others run 3 years 24/7 [Elektroda, h3c4, #17117098; jousto, #17117168]

What are the official voltage and current limits of the meter?

The module reads 0–100 V DC and 0.01–10 A DC. Seller notes usable accuracy starts above 1 A, yet the display activates at 0.01 A [Elektroda, CMS, post #17116791]

How do I wire the three- or five-lead version correctly?

  1. Connect thin red to +V supply (4–30 V).
  2. Connect thin black to supply ground; leave floating if supply equals measured source.
  3. Route load current through the thick red (+) and thick black (−) leads.
  4. For separate voltage sensing, attach thin yellow to the point you want measured [Elektroda, CMS, post #17116791]

How do I calibrate the displays?

  1. Power the module and connect a precise DMM in parallel.
  2. Use a small insulated screwdriver to turn the VOLT trimmer until both meters match.
  3. Repeat for the AMP trimmer while passing 5 A through the shunt. The entire process takes under three minutes [Elektroda, CMS, post #17116791]

What wire or shunt size is safe for 8 A continuous?

Replace the stock 0.2 mm² leads with 1.5 mm² copper; originals overheat and melt at 7 A [Elektroda, mariomario, #17119795; koala106, #17120194]. Keep lead length short to limit voltage drop to <50 mV at 8 A.

My board arrived without a shunt and shows 52 A at idle—what value do I need?

Solder or bolt in a 0.0075 Ω (75 mV @ 10 A) resistor for a 10 A range. For 20 A use 0.00375 Ω, for 50 A use an external 75 mV/50 A block. Without the shunt the op-amp saturates at ~52 A reading [Elektroda, mumotg, #19938992; Szyszkownik Kilkujadek, #19938184].

What happens if I reverse the current leads?

The meter shorts its internal 5 V regulator and can fail instantly; at minimum it shows 0 A [Elektroda, CMS, #17116791; Anonymous, #17119702]. Always observe polarity or add a series Schottky diode as cheap insurance.

Can the meter display accumulated energy (Wh)?

Not the basic 3-digit unit. Choose a KWS-DC200 or similar; it integrates voltage and current to show amp-hours and watt-hours, resettable via front button [Elektroda, M.R-V4, post #19361472]
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