Is not. To program, you need the programmer st link v2 and, for example, this batch from the link I gave above. If you want to write and compile the program yourself, you can use sdcc. You can find the appropriate header files for this processor on the web. A brief description of what and how here
Yes that's enough. To program it, you need to install stlink utility (drivers for the programmer will be installed) and stvp to upload the batch. I associate that it was somehow terribly unintuitive, but if you click, you will find which options to choose for the processor to program.
I want to optimally manage the switching on of cooling, by additional analysis of switching periods, so as not to tire the aggregate (assuming additional tolerance).
It's nice if you could use free pins, but I assume that there are no such pins anymore
The use of a ready-made board will speed up the implementation of the device, but it may turn out that such missing pins you write about or other difficulties may direct the project to make it from scratch, i.e. designing both the layout and writing the code.
What do you mean by additional analysis of switching periods, something like PID, or more conditions for optimizing the number and intervals of actuator switching. Are the options available in this controller (e.g. hysteresis) not sufficient for cost-effective control?
On / off control is generally not very optimal in many respects (for example the example of the temperature graph in the first post), but in many cases it is sufficient and, importantly, simple to implement. An example is an on / off and inverter air conditioner (there are both advantages and disadvantages of both solutions).
Thanks. I opened the manual, and there Temperature sensor type: NTC (10K 0.5%) waterproof I ordered the thermostat in our shop, we will see how it will work in the aquarium
If it was to be constantly immersed in water, I would prefer to somehow additionally secure it with, for example, a heat shrink tube (unfortunately there will be additional thermal insulation ...), or some varnish?
One note about this detector. On aquarium forums they reported after about half a year that the measurement started to go crazy. It turned out that the probe was corroded and gave other false results! There is a method for this, when I cover the probe with a heat-shrink and taped it on both sides and it's completely OK.
A long time ago, when I had an aquarium, I used a temperature controller with a thermistor and an operational amplifier controlling the relay to which the heater was connected. I placed the thermistor in a small dough aroma vial which was filled with sand and topped with paraffin and glue. Such a sensor worked flawlessly for many years. I was concerned about some great thermal inertia, but compared to the mass of water, it didn't really matter ...
Yes, I look at the photos, the NTC sensor is flooded in a metal housing, so why is it rotting? The weak glue (what's in there) lets the water through, or does the metal core rot?
The metal rots / bleds and gives a dozen%, but I don't remember which way. After heat-shrink or other means, the problem disappears, checked! Only I used a 2-ingredient, not a thermoglute. Simple bag, nothing to be afraid of and the probe would be replaced by the bank in six months
Good day. I bought such a thermostat and during its conversion to control up to 999 degrees, everything worked fine until something suddenly happened. Namely, all 3 letters "LLL" jumped out suddenly during the work, means the limit of lower temperature was exceeded. But in fact nothing was surpassed, I rummaged through all the settings and nothing. When turned on, 3 "LLL" lights up immediately, which means it does not show the temperature, although the whole settings menu is working, and it should be. I tried to reset the controller at all by turning it on with initial simultaneous pressing of the "+" and "-" buttons. Nothing again. 3 "LLL" are displayed What could it be? Please help.
I've finally explained what the matter is. It turned out that the microcontroller has broken, the 6th leg of the controller that processes the signal sits on the ground. And, oddly enough, in the chip itself. I crossed the paths all the way to the chip, and it turned out that the 6th leg has a short circuit with the ground. It's very strange that everything else works, so all functions work except measuring the input signal.
I'll include my few pennies. For me, I used these modules to heat the DHW tank through an additional SSR 10A relay and I must admit that it flashes as it should. In addition, I built a simple fireplace blower controller from 3 pieces. The modules manage the blowing force of a four-speed fan with a maximum power of 400W depending on the degree of heating (I only use 3 gears) For this purpose, I had to solder additional wires to the relays due to the lack of NO / NC on the PCB. Overall a very useful device.
I have a problem with this thermostat, because the temperature values are constantly fluctuating, with a constant temperature it shows changing temperature values every few seconds, eg 13.0; 13.7; 12.6, 13.1 etc. I changed the probes, nothing worked.
Such their accuracy ... Unfortunately, the sensors used in these systems are not the same as PT100, which is a pity. For basic applications where there is no need to use high resolution measurements, they are rather suitable. For precision applications, I recommend PID controllers for PT100 and a solid-state SSR relay. Costs several times higher, but: Pros: + high measuring accuracy + Larger temperature ranges + More setting options + no moving parts (relays) + Alarm output And a lot more...
