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UNI-T UT210E True RMS clamp meter - Test / Review / Description

CMS 37305 51

TL;DR

  • UNI-T UT210E True RMS clamp meter is tested as a compact DC/AC clamp meter for low-current measurement, including a claimed 2 A range.
  • It is compared against a Sanwa multimeter, a reference voltage source, 0.1% resistors, an autotransformer-driven iron, and a generator for the True RMS check.
  • The meter cost 43.5 dollars, and its low-current readings stayed accurate down to below 10 mA after pressing zero.
  • It also tracked DC and AC voltage, resistance, capacitance, continuity, and diode tests closely, while the clamp captured starting current spikes around 57-97 A.
  • The main limitation is that True RMS works only in a fairly narrow frequency range, so frequency-dependent readings can be misleading.
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  • #31 17766152
    CMS
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    It's hard not to notice it :) .
    I have a clip at my disposal.
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  • #32 17773491
    noel200
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    Today I made a mod for my ut210e. Well, the meter is dead. Does not turn on. Once every few clicks, it will be able to turn on, and when it turns on, you can see that the eeprom is changed, because it will be set to volts dc, continuity test and measurement of dc with clamps. But the detection of live wires stopped working, and on the continuity test without any wires connected at all, it beeps all the time and shows 0. The clamp measures nothing either.



    What could go wrong? I was uploading via arduino. Of course, I changed two values to my calibration values.
  • #33 17773625
    CMS
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    Hope you made a copy of the original batch before you started messing around ....
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  • #34 17773688
    noel200
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    Of course. But I checked the charge and it looks like it's ok. The tip of the soldering iron is grounded, and yet I beat the chip somehow. I mean dm1106.
    After uploading the batch, the multimeter worked. I checked all the functions and it was ok. Including changes for the better. And after unsoldering the wires from the board, such a knock was done.
  • #35 17773974
    CMS
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    I do have a clip, but your message filled me with concerns.
    Did you do according to the video I posted? By some other method?
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  • #36 17774213
    noel200
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    I was doing using the program from the eev forum.
    I used this picture for connection:
    UNI-T UT210E True RMS clamp meter - Test / Review / Description
    And I uploaded the program from the attachment. Of course, I just changed it to my calibration data and turned on the record.
    And it went well. After a few switching on and unsoldering the wires from the pcb of the multimeter, something broke.
    I read the eeprom again and it's the same. Looks like the DM chip is down. Because there is nothing else there. Only an operational amplifier with a hall sensor and clamps.
    Edit:
    Oh, I remembered that I turned it on again after unsoldering the wires from the holes from the board and it was ok, only after unsoldering the reset wire from the capacitor on the left side of the DM system, the meter went crazy.
    And at the beginning, when I tried to read the eeprom for the first time, the reset did not go without this cable, so it is necessary.
    Attachments:
    • JAY_i2cArduino210E.ino.zip (1.32 KB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
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  • #37 17806323
    kiko80
    Level 27  
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    I do not know why play with soldering, since the clip and the programmer are a much safer solution. I also modded my 210E and it works without any problems.

    Code: Text
    Log in, to see the code
  • #38 17806341
    CMS
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    I would ask my colleagues to insert a link with the description of the modification, or to paste the appropriate content. It can be in English or Russian.
    And we'll have a tutorial article in one. I have not modded mine yet, because there is still something to do, but I want to change the order of functions and turn off the backlight time. Although the range up to 1000A, it can also be useful.
  • #39 17808453
    kiko80
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    It is already on alledrogo someone who reprograms ut210e.
  • #40 17808565
    CMS
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    Nothing new. I have already written about it, and even added a description of what the modification gives. I was talking to this guy and from what I found out, the offer is about to disappear or the price will go up. I wanted to send only the batch (because why pay for two multimeter shipments) instead, I proposed to describe the effects here, but he was not interested. In the meantime, I found the previously presented video.
  • #41 17846980
    Wlodek22
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    Hello
    I have made modifications to my meter according to this guide https://mysku.ru/blog/china-stores/48659.html adjusting some parameters for myself. I added an additional DC current measurement submenu up to 6000mA and wanting to correct the 0 calibration, where it was 170mA before, I got 440mA. Then I performed auto-calibration according to http://kazus.ru/forums/showpost.php?p=1019021&postcount=415 As a result, I got nice zeros, but the measurements were overstated by 20-200mA depending on the range. I soldered the eprom again and left the zero calibration on individual ranges (including the new 6000mA) and set the parameters from the addresses 33h 36h 39h 3Ch as it was at the factory.
    I also did not find an option to increase the range above 100A anywhere, one even wrote that it is impossible due to hardware limitations.
    Now a meter, more user-friendly.
  • #42 18107050
    szymonjg
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    On github someone did a great job and described what and how to change in the eeprom.
  • #43 18396384
    djmarco83
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    I have an Arduino nano. Will someone say what and how to do and throw the entire batch to modify this meter?
  • #44 18396416
    noel200
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    In my post above is everything. You just better have a good grounded soldering iron, ground yourself, and a suitable so8 clamp. This will reduce the risk of failure.
  • #45 18400596
    CMS
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    djmarco83 wrote:
    toss the entire batch to modify this gauge


    Do not think of uploading a batch other than your modified one.
    You have to read the batch, save a copy, modify and upload the modified one.
  • #46 18650115
    Anonymous
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  • #47 18650293
    miroslaw wielki
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    I propose that someone do such an extecha 830 study and comment on this topic, if possible
  • #48 18650891
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #49 18922907
    E8600
    Level 41  
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    Perhaps it will interest someone.
    UNI-T UT210E as a current clamp for an oscilloscope.



    Here, after modification with the output in the housing.



    How to correct the decalibration of the DC current measurement.



    More advanced modifications here.


  • #50 20341468
    Dragot
    Level 10  
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    hi

    I am considering buying this meter

    the modification offer is no longer valid, there are no modification offers at all anyone know anything?

    thanks
  • #51 20343134
    CMS
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    Everything is described on the Internet, and the simplest programmer is enough to modify it.
  • #52 21255112
    rafels
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    Wlodek22 wrote:
    I have also not found anywhere an option to increase the range beyond 100A, one even wrote that this is impossible due to hardware limitations
    .

    It is also possible to extend the 100A range. In addition to changing the "Range switch upper/lower limit" settings, the following bytes still need to be modified.
    Instructions for extending the measurement range from 100A to 600A and 1000A, with byte settings modifications.

    This comes from https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg1302533/#msg1302533
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Topic summary

✨ The UNI-T UT210E True RMS clamp meter is discussed extensively, highlighting its affordability and capabilities, including DC current measurement, which is rare at its price point. Users share experiences regarding its performance, noting discrepancies in current readings compared to traditional ammeters and the importance of proper cable placement during measurements. Several users mention modifications to enhance functionality, such as EEPROM reprogramming to increase measurement ranges and adjust settings. Issues with battery life and calibration are also addressed, with suggestions for alternative power supplies and calibration techniques. Overall, the discussion emphasizes the meter's value for both casual and professional use, alongside community-driven modifications to improve its performance.
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FAQ

TL;DR: UT210E delivers 0.5 % agreement with a Sanwa bench meter at 2 A, “simply stunningly accurate” [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190] Firmware edits unlock 5+ new modes in < 10 min [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323]

Why it matters: You get lab-grade flexibility from a €40 pocket clamp meter after one EEPROM tweak.

Quick Facts

• DC current ranges: 2 A, 20 A, 100 A (expandable to 1 000 A by mod) [Elektroda, CMS, #17759742; #21255112]. • Display resolution: factory 1 999 counts, mod up to 10 000 counts [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323] • True-RMS: accurate 40 Hz-~1 kHz; drifts above 2 kHz [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190] • Price: USD 43.5 / PLN 170 retail; PLN 175 in Wrocław store [Elektroda, CMS, #17759190; Jarecki669, #17759651]. • NCV detects live mains up to 30 cm away [Elektroda, tomybb, post #17759918]

1. Which UNI-T UT210 versions measure DC current?

Only models UT210 D and UT210 E have Hall sensors for DC amperage; earlier A–C variants are AC-only [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190]

2. What are the default current ranges and how accurate are they?

Factory ranges are 2 A, 20 A and 100 A for both AC and DC. In real tests the meter stayed within ±0.5 % of a calibrated Sanwa at 0.5–20 A [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190]

3. Does True-RMS work on all frequencies?

No. Readings are reliable from 40 Hz to roughly 1 kHz; beyond 2 kHz large errors appear, an admitted ‘narrow band’ limitation [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190]

4. How sensitive is the NCV (non-contact voltage) detector?

The beeper and LED trigger at 20–30 cm from a 230 V line, useful for cable tracing [Elektroda, tomybb, post #17759918]

5. Can I use NiMH rechargeables instead of AA alkalines?

Yes. Tests with Eneloop cells showed stable readings; however values drift when voltage falls, so replace or recharge early [Elektroda, CMS, #17763103; gruby1, #17761134].

6. What hidden features can EEPROM hacking unlock?

Mods add 10 000-count display, 1 000 A range, endless backlight, 1-hour auto-off, DC-first voltage/current order, and numeric NCV mode [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323]

7. Three-step how-to: reprogram the EEPROM safely

  1. Clip an SO-8 IC test clip to the 24C02 EEPROM pads (or use PCB vias Vcc–SDA). 2. Read and back-up the hex file with a CH341A or Arduino-I²C flasher. 3. Edit the bytes listed by kiko80 (#17806323), write back, then verify. Total time ~10 min.

8. What can go wrong during modding?

Static or incorrect wiring can corrupt DM1106 MCU; one user’s meter became unusable after removing the RESET lead [Elektroda, noel200, post #17773491] Always ground the iron and keep the RESET pin low during flashing.

9. Is it possible to brick-recover the meter?

If you saved the original EEPROM image, re-write it. Hardware damage to the DM1106 controller is irreversible without BGA work [Elektroda, CMS, post #17773625]

10. How do I stop the 15 s backlight timeout?

Change byte FC from 0x0F to 0x00, then flash the chip; the backlight stays on until manual power-down [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323]

11. Does the meter auto-power-off, and can that be extended?

Default APO is 15 min; set byte FB to 0x3C to stretch it to 60 min or 0x00 for disabled [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323]

12. Can UT210E feed an oscilloscope?

Yes. Solder a 100 Ω sense resistor to the Hall amp output and route to a BNC; you then view current waveforms up to 20 kHz bandwidth [YouTube: EEVblog #dGpX0oP3Vl4].

13. How low a current can it resolve?

Below 10 mA readings jitter, yet values down to 2 mA are still usable after zeroing each time [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190]

14. What are the practical limits after the 1 000 A hack?

Hall linearity and jaw saturation mean accuracy above ~300 A drops rapidly; treat 1 000 A as qualitative only [Elektroda, rafels, post #21255112]
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