It took me a little bit, but as promised, I am presenting you a "Chinese" branded meter UNI-T though I don't know how much truth there is . This multimeter is available in several versions (from AND down E. ) that differ in their functions. I have purchased UT210E , because I was interested in the small range of the measured current (although I must admit that I did not believe it was in the range 2 Amps it will be authoritative). All versions "can" measure the current DC which at this price is practically unheard of.
I would not be myself if I had not put a screenshot from the auction here, so here I am
As you can see, the price is downright ridiculous forty-three and a half dollars, which is less than 170 Polish zlotys . In our country, we can buy at a slightly higher price our native clamp meter, but the operator only AC .
The photos below show the content of the shipment. It seems that it is either a product typically for the Chinese market (only the inscriptions in Mandarin on the packaging, except for one), or a very nice fake.
Here, as in the case of Aneng Q1, I have two copies at my disposal. When I got mine and was with him at a friend with whom I tested the reference voltage that you already know, my friend liked it and asked me to order him the same. Thanks to this, I have the opportunity to not only test but also check the repeatability of the results.
In this beautiful colorful box, from which nothing comes out, we find such treasures:
Of course, there is only one multimeter .
The test leads seem solid, and they have insulating caps on the test tips, which I personally approve of. Although these are actually quite "thick skinned". A very nice addition is also a well-fitted cover with a zipper. Inside there is a pocket for cables, and an elastic band securing the multimeter against falling out, should someone forget to fasten the "zipper".
Let's take a look at the technical parameters, or if you prefer the specification. I found a pretty nice table with my friends, so I'll steal it, I think the yellow brothers will not mind .
I will not keep you in suspense anymore, because I know that you are waiting for practical tests. As I bought it mainly for non-contact current measurement, we will start with such tests. In the first phase, a well-known current source was used as the load. In the second, a 12V 21W bulb, scrolled to almost 17V, and a piece of "computer herring", because I did not have a suitable resistor at hand . Stage three is an old iron and an autotransformer.
So let's start the photo stories:
The readings below 10mA were "random", so to speak, as you can see in the first three photos. You can see, however, that the measure is simply stunningly accurate. However, I would like to point out that before each measurement I pressed the "zero" key, otherwise the device could show total nonsense.
We increase the current a little and check the correctness of the readings, compared to the higher class multimer - Sanwa.
Here you have 0.5A in turn; 1A; 2A and how much the power supply could handle (on a piece of sheet metal called the herring, as a load).
The next test is to measure the AC current. In the role of load, the old iron is connected via an autotransformer. Unfortunately, it only has a load capacity of 3.42A, so I couldn't go crazy :(
Here in turn: 0.5A; 1.5A; 2.5A and as much as possible, i.e. 3.44A AC.
I also wanted to do a rehearsal with some very high current. So I decided to measure the starting current of the (warm, and importantly) 2.0 petrol engine.
Unfortunately, despite a few attempts, it turned out that my reflexes are too weak to press HOLD in time. however, I noticed that it looks something like this, 57-58A - 69-70A - 95-97A - and it drops down to a dozen Amps, but everything happens very quickly. I think the cold engine would run out of scale Anyway, never mind. For me, the 20A range is enough.
So let's check how this meter handles voltage measurement. To begin with, we will use the reference voltage that you already know.
Now measure the AC voltage
100VAC Here, unfortunately, I lost a photo somewhere, from the second meter.
Finally, the full voltage of the 230VAC network.
As with most clamp multimeters, we have the NCV (Non Contact Voltage) function. This function allows for non-contact checking of voltage presence in the cable. It can be very useful, for example, when looking for a damaged lamp on a Christmas tree :D
If you quickly "mix the photos" you will see that the LED in the middle of the clamps is blinking . I really didn't want to make a video for it .
A few more tests remain. I bought nine resistors with a tolerance of 0.1% and with reasonable values. So let's see how the resistance measurement works.
For formalities, a few more measurements of capacity:
You can see that the gauges go head to head, with minimal deviations. However, I think it can be corrected with the help of the three peers mentioned earlier.
As befits a multimeter, we also have a circuit continuity tester, which works very well, the sound from the "squeak" comes out literally when the first atoms of the measuring probes touch each other . It is highly praised because my favorite UNI-T, which I use every day, has a huge delay, I did not measure it, but I think it is at least 0.2s, which, contrary to appearances, can be very onerous. We also have a "diode test" of course.
Finally, using the courtesy Arthur 'and k who lent me a decent generator, we will check how True RMS works and whether this function is actually implemented, or is it just an inscription on the housing.
So far, the gauges are doing very well, but it can't be that rosy, not for that little money. So what made me suddenly not fit something after such successful attempts? You'll see for yourself ...
As the last one, I will present you the TRUE RMS test. In the photos below you can see that T-RMS actually works, but only in a fairly narrow frequency range. But there is nothing to write home about, see for yourself.
As you can see in the photo story above, this meter has something like T-RMS, but it only works in a certain frequency range. As we do not know what to expect when measuring frequently, the reading can be very misleading. However, for my needs, the "pincers" are more than enough.
Of course, I also looked inside the multimeter, otherwise I wouldn't be myself.
There are three tiny peers there, probably used to calibrate the device. There is also a system visible below which "manages" everything:
Overall, I am very pleased with this investment. How did you have the occasion SEE (because I will always be a supporter of a large amount of photos ), instead of the tables proposed several times (in which, by the way, you can enter everything, after all, the paper is patient and will accept everything), this multimeter, despite its ridiculous price, showed that if you want, you can produce cheaply, but also well.
I have the same gauge. I even managed to buy it cheaper some time ago, it was surprisingly cheaper from ebay than from Alli. In my case, however, the current measurement results differed more compared to a normal ammeter. It seems to me that there may be several reasons: - placing the measured cable centrally (in accordance with the arrows) in the bricks, in total, you also have some minor differences on the test, so here it may also be important. The second thing is the state of charge of the batteries used in the meter. The second issue is NCV - and you start squeaking for me even at 20-30cm from the current wire, can it be adjusted somehow?
Could you for comparison (and be sure) upload comparative photos of the T-RMS test as shown by Sanwa and Uni-T?
Unfortunately, I no longer have a generator.
Added after 6 [minutes]:
Szyszkownik Kilkujadek wrote:
There is even an Alledrogo offer to reprogram this meter.
Wow. I am impressed, but it is a bit expensive with the shipments. But if someone had the right material and shared it, I would probably be tempted to do so. And while visiting Allegro, I discovered that since I ordered it, the price in Poland has dropped a lot.
There is quite an extensive topic on eevblog about eeprom modifications to this meter. You can increase the count to 6000 or even 10000, time to auto off or backlight operation. You can also change the order of functions under the buttons. I recommend the owners of this meter to read it because you can set the meter for your needs for free, which makes working with it much easier.
The subject of the auction is the reprogramming of the EEPROM memory of the multimeter: UNIT UT210E
Thanks to this modification it will be possible to:
increasing the current measurement range from 100A to 1000A, increasing the maximum display indication from 2000 to 9999,
. / When measuring voltage, the measurement accuracy is increased to 9.999V.
. / When measuring current at zero, the maximum reading is 2500. Without zeroing, 9999.
turning off the automatic switch-off of the display backlight after 15 seconds, DC measurement (instead of AC) as a default setting when selecting voltage or current measurement, circuit continuity measurement as default when setting resistance measurement, additional functionality with NCV (non-contact voltage detection) setting. The range is increased by the possibility of selecting the measurement display as numerals.
After clicking "Buy Now" I will send the address to which you should send your multimeter.
In case of any damage to the meter during reprogramming, I cover the costs.
The factory calibration will be retained.
Re-programming of the EEPROM will void the manufacturer's warranty.
UT210E It comes in two versions: Newer version with DM1106 chip and older version with 0660 chip.
In the case of the older version, the current measurement will be up to 600A and the maximum display reading will be up to 6200.
Just remember that interfering with the eeprom is associated with the loss of the warranty, although at the price of this meter it is not a great sacrifice. I can help in case someone has a problem with changing the memory content. Returning to the meter itself, I noticed that before the low battery info appears on the display, the meter can cheat a little. After switching to new batteries, everything returns to normal. It is worth knowing that such a phenomenon occurs and prophylactically it is better to replace the power supply from time to time.
You have to read the memory, because it contains calibration data. If you upload another batch, the meter can show miracles (although I have not checked it). However, in each meter the content of cells 50 and 51 in the eeprom is different so something is up. When you read the memory, it is enough to modify a few cells and upload to the meter. 24c02 can be read with a clip so you don't even need to heat the soldering iron.
Hello, interesting review. I have the same meter at work for almost 2 years, it works well, it's nice because it's small. But it also has a strange disadvantage - for example, I set the ammeter, take a few measurements, move away from the cabinet and hear a quiet beep, and here the meter is turned off. I have to turn the knob to off and turn it on again. All in all, it's probably been so new, but somehow it still doesn't bother me a lot. I checked the battery contacts, knobs, washed the track with spirit, but no changes. I tell myself that it is meant to be. Best regards.
Gentlemen, such a hint: these 5 vias just above the 24c02a memory are the outputs (in order from the quartz resonator): Vcc, WP, SCL, SDA and Vss. Can be used for programming when someone does not have the clip at hand