[BK7231N] Aubess Mini Switch 16A

-Apology, it is my typing error.

khafif wrote:

Please can you mark on the above screenshots where do I have to connect the 3.3v on the WiFi board.

I have the BK7231N on board wifi chip. I cannot locate the 5v or 3.3v LDO connection.





I did see the video, it is another board, not the same.

Hello, please see modified image:

I have added my markings and BK7231 pinout image.

NOTE: marked VDD is 3.3V, not 5V!!!

Thank you for the detailed drawing.

I found BP2525 diagram and I used my TTL/3.3V to BP2525 GND and pushed the board reset bottom for 7 seconds. Backup and flashing done in less than 30 seconds.

Please provide firmware backup here as an attachment if you can.

p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

Please provide firmware backup here as an attachment if you can.

;
Apology, backup firmware have my tuya/wifi account details (file name is: readResult_BK7231N_QIO_2023-24-1--18-46-55.bin).

Hi @zopieux
So the one I’m about to buy looks similar to yours
Are they still working fine since the last you purchased them?
I’m planning to use it mostly for 2 way switches

Those switches should work good as long as you remember to put "PowerSave" command into startup, so the power supply is not stressed too much.

In case of strange WiFi connection issues, our flasher has already functionality to deal with it, the "Restore RF partition" button, but do it only if an issue appears.

Hello,

I have a PCB in front of me as in the first post.
AUBESS mini Smart Switch, fresh purchase from this month from aliexpress.
I soldered to the pads, according to the pictures from this thread
GND
VDD(3V3)
TXD->RXD adapter
RXD

@janek_wro the new flasher has some weird problem in exceptional situations, I'm not sure what it depends on, please provide information what you use for flashing. A few people have already reported this, but I can't determine what's breaking, because it works for me (Windows 10).

The old flasher reads well, the CRC error is due to the unfinished software (Beken changed the CRC calculation algorithm), but if you want to make a backup, you have to load the whole 2MB, not only:

Quote:

Wrote 119000 bytes to firmware-read.bin

Please backup the entire 2MB:

Like here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MyfSgxLAOo&ab_channel=elektroda.pl

Put a backup here, maybe it will be useful to someone, and upload OpenBeken:

p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

what are you using to flash.

Linux Mint 20.2,
USB-UART adapter FTDI FT232RL
ftdi driver from kernel 5.4.0, libftdi 1.4

the adapter itself is Chinese, so it's possible that the FTDI IC is a clone

I also tried on CH341 in UART mode, and the same symptom is there

I attach a backup of the original firmware, ripped with the command you provided, along with -l 0x200000

OpenBeken uploaded, it worked

Ok, remember to enter the basic commands, such as PowerSave (because I had to repair one weak power supply of the device working without PowerSave) and maybe also the SSDP driver.
In the short startup command:

In the future powersave will be automatic but not 100% tested yet.

OK, I added it to startup.

I don't think anyone here has given the distribution of ports from this version of the board yet.
It looks like:
P6 LED_n
P8 Button (internal in housing)
P14 Button (output on terminals S1/S2)
P15 Relay

PCB version as from the first post of this thread, (user Pretoriano) having IC BK7231N on the main board, and the relay soldered on the additional board.

I will add photos taken while opening the case.
Two copies already flashed on openbeken.




In the lower corner of the board you can see an unoccupied place for IC U2. Probably in the "richer" versions there was supposed to be a 433MHz remote control receiver, I believe. On the other side of the PCB is the ANT1 pad


You can take advantage of the "benefit of this lack", because on pin 5 of this system U2 is connected to U4 (BK7231N) and its P23/ADC3 port is available. I guess you can use it if someone wants to stick with something extra. on pin3 U2 is "on hand" Vdd (3v3), pin1 and pin6 = GND


Maybe a description of the test-pads from the board.

P1 GND
P2 UART2 RXD
P3 UART2 TXD
P4 UART1 TXD
P5 UART1 RXD
P6 PRICE
P7 P21
P8 VDD 3.3V

@janek_wro thanks for the photos, but the flash backup you gave from what I see has one sector removed. It looks like you've been doing something with this device before, I think you tried a different tool and something went wrong and one sector got erased. If you could, a backup from another art (unmodified) will still come in handy.

As for connecting, you can connect whatever you want, even up to 2 pins can be connected to SHT30.
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3959243.html

Either an additional button or a relay (with a control transistor...)

p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

but the flash backup you gave from what I see has one sector deleted.

maybe even two sectors. This GUI tool, which I wrote about in #39, did something like this during a read-write test, even boasted in the log: Maybe they are missing.

Anyway, I dropped the firmware from the second device, the first thing I did after connecting, using the console and uartprogram
I dumped several times in succession to make sure it reads without random errors by comparing the checksum of successive dumps. And it turned out that consecutive readings with single 2 bytes differ. under 0x1d2004
and 0x1d3004
After that it was stable, same every time.
Here is a screenshot from my second copy. I have no more I only bought two to try.

Out of curiosity, I made a diff with the reading from the first device, from a few days ago ... oh, it differs significantly, and not even with those erased sectors. I don't know why, I don't care. It is possible that different versions of the software were in them. Though purchase from a single source, in the same order. The labels on the boxes are identical, including some small batch number.

p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

Ok, remember to enter the basic commands, such as PowerSave (because I had to repair one weak power supply of the device working without PowerSave) and maybe also the SSDP driver.
In the short startup command:

Code: text Expand Select all Copy to clipboard

backlog startDriver SSDP; PowerSave 1

In the future powersave will be automatic but not 100% tested yet.

Hi, I set the relay pin to always_high (using it as detached mode)
On latest firmware now, with powersave enabled. Would it affect other features like device group?

I don't think so, but please test and let me know. @ferbulous , is PowerSave stable for you?

p.kaczmarek2 wrote:

I don't think so, but please test and let me know. @ferbulous , is PowerSave stable for you?

Still waiting for a few more units to arrive, will do more test afterwards

First of all what a great work you did.

I have a couple of the same aubess smart witches and have succesfully cut them off the cloud with cloudcutter.
Successfully i flashed them OTA with the supplied openbeken bin file.
I am a noob and not familiar with tasmota or openbeken configuration, that sad,

i installed the smartswitch in the wallmount and in Homeassistant i can manage my smartswitch.
But if i want to manually turn the light on or off i have to dubble flip the switch of the wallmount.
What can be done to let the wallmount switch act like normally does and not as a pushbutton (flip twice).

Any help is appreciated

Kind regards,
FritsOv

Hello, do you want to use ToggleChannelOnToggle?
Our faq: https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/blob/main/docs/faq.md

Wauw what a blazing speed in answering! thanks.
As stated i am a noob. I can see there are two btn adressed to a pin
how could i change the chanel to ToggleChannelOnToggle?
Is this done in the thanel type configuration? and if so wich btn should set to ToggleChannelOnToggle?
If i change this setting is this a direct change or should i update over OTA?

This is a pin role. You should set it for a pin, and then this pin will toggle channel when it's toggled. No OTA needed.

Thank you for your reply.
To be sure, should i set pin 8 and pin 14 to ToggleChannelOnToggle ?

[edit] i changed both pins and yessssss it works like it should.

And if you have some spare time: why are there 2 btn pins?

Kind regards and thanks for the help!

Hmm what exactly do you mean by "2 btn pins"? Can you show a screenshot?

if you look in the picture from post:
https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3912748-30.html#20479294
pin 14 and pin 8 had the adress Btn now togeling. so 2 Btn or togeling adresses.

Ah, now I understand, @FritsOv . This is because on Btn is the tiny button on the switch, and second button is really an external toggle switch (toggle channel on toggle) with S1/S2 terminals, and both those buttons/switches can toggle the relay.
Feel free to ask if you need a further explanation or have any other questions.

Earlier in this thread testpoint P6 is said to be CEN.
I could not make that work when programming with BK7231Flasher.exe.
Cutting 3.3V did work with BK7231Flasher.exe.

Can position of CEN be confirmed?

@taggbricka , which platform? I had reports saying that some platforms have issues with new flasher, can you try:
https://github.com/OpenBekenIOT/hid_download_py
See here for usage example and console commands:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2e1SUQNMrgY

Also, you can just use power off/on cycle method.

Was using "BK7231Flasher.exe" on Win10 and a CP2102 dongle.
The flasher worked OK with the power on/off metod so I am already done since yesterday.

I will try your suggestion when next batch of devices arrives.

Coming from a Tasmota user experience, I must say your work with these Beken devices is excellent!
Thanks for your attention.

I have split the topic. The no-neutral modification (very cool idea, btw, but I wouldn't recommend doing this mod for beginners and amateurs, because it relates to mains voltage) is now in separate topic:
Make any smart relay no-neutral? Simple modification help
In general, please try to keep discussion on the topic, and this topic is about flashing OpenBeken to Aubess Mini Switch 16A.
If you want to see more detailed flashing guide, please visit:
https://openbekeniot.github.io/webapp/devicesList.html
https://www.youtube.com/@elektrodacom