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TL;DR

  • The BK7231T-based Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb, also sold as the Laser 10W Smart RGB Bulb B22, appears under product IDs LSH-B22RGB10W and CSH-B22RGB10W.
  • The WB2L drives KP18055ESP and BP1633 LED drivers with PWM, controlling blue, red, warm white, cold white, and green channels.
  • Its power stage is a 220v capacitive drop circuit that outputs 12v and passes 220v to VIN.
  • Flashing OpenBeken through Tuya Cloudcutter and configuring P6, P7, P8, P24, and P26 restores web-based colour control.
  • Multiple revisions share the same product ID, so you must open the bulb to verify the chipset, and the author warns it may brick.
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  • [BK7231T] Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb
    Hello, today I want to introduce the the Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb, also known as the Laser 10W Smart RGB Bulb B22. I bought this bulb in 2021 and threw away the packaging earlier this year as a cleanup, so I don't have any packaging pictures. Sorry!

    Teardown

    [BK7231T] Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb

    [BK7231T] Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb

    The bulb has two product IDs: LSH-B22RGB10W and CSH-B22RGB10W. Laser Co seems to sell this bulb under its own brand and the Connect SmartHome brand it owns.

    Multiple revisions of this bulb exist (ESP8266 chip, WB2L chip) but the manufacturer doesn't change the product ID. This means you need to open your bulb to find out what's actually inside. Because of this I don't recommend buying this bulb.

    [BK7231T] Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb [BK7231T] Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb [BK7231T] Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb [BK7231T] Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb [BK7231T] Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb

    I didn't photograph the power circuit as it's just a 220v capacitive drop circuit that outputs 12v and passes through 220v to VIN.

    Here's a labelled collage of all the pins (click to zoom!):

    [BK7231T] Connect 10W Smart RGB Bulb

    The operation is fairly simple: The WB2L sends PWM signals to two LED drivers. One is a KP18055ESP and the other is a BP1633. The mapping goes like this:

    PinLED
    PWM4Blue
    PWM5Green
    PWM0Red
    PWM1Warm white
    PWM2Cold white


    Install guide

    Warning: Read all appropriate documentation and warnings for Tuya Cloudcutter and OpenBeken. If your bulb does not have the same chipset as mine it's possible you will brick your device. Follow their installation instructions instead of mine if possible.

    Installation is roughly these steps:

    1. Set up Tuya Cloudcutter using their instructions
    2. Grab the BK7231T firmware in CCtr format from OpenBeken
    3. Place it in the custom-firmware directory
    4. Run Tuya Cloudcutter and select update firmware mode
    5. Select a device by firmware (I used oem-bk7231s-light-ty-1.1.2-sdk-2.0.0-30.06)
    6. Select the firmware you've downloaded
    7. Follow the instructions
    8. Connect to the bulb's Wi-Fi access point
    9. Note your device's IP address
    10. Change the noted IP's last octect to 1 (so if your IP is 192.168.1.20, use 192.168.1.1)
    11. Open the IP in your web browser, in a URL like this: http://192.168.1.1/
    12. Configure the bulb's Wi-Fi access point
    13. Re-connect to your regular Wi-Fi network

    Configuration is done using these steps:

    1. Find the IP of your bulb using your router page
    2. Open it in your web browser, in a URL like this: http://192.168.1.5/
    3. Go to the configuration page
    4. Go to the 'Configure Module' page
    5. Set P6 (PWM0) to PWM role, channel 1
    6. Set P7 (PWM1) to PWM role, channel 4
    7. Set P8 (PWM2) to PWM role, channel 3
    8. Set P24 (PWM4) to PWM role, channel 2
    9. Set P26 (PWM5) to PWM role, channel 0
    10. Save the configuration
    11. Return to the original bulb page
    12. Test that you can set the light colour

    That should be it! If you manage to install OpenBeken but the configuration goes wrong you might need to ask online for some help.

    Other notes

    Sorry for the somewhat blurry and incomplete photos. I was in a hurry to have a working light again. I also couldn't find a datasheet for the BP1633 chip.

    Full disclosure: I also want to note that this post is an abridged copy of my wiki page here: https://www.jookia.org/wiki/CSH-B22RGB10W . Nothing important is removed, just textual descriptions and general background on what Tuya mods are available.

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    jookia
    Level 2  
    Offline 
    jookia wrote 3 posts with rating 4. Been with us since 2023 year.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 10 W RGB bulb ships with at least 2 different chipsets, and "I don't recommend buying this bulb." [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963] Cloud-flash OpenBeken via Tuya Cloudcutter, remap 5 PWM channels, and regain full local control in about 10 minutes.

Why it matters: mixed hardware forces DIYers to verify chipset before flashing to avoid bricking.

Quick Facts

• Power rating: 10 W, B22 base [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963] • Product IDs: LSH-B22RGB10W and CSH-B22RGB10W [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963] • Known chipsets: ESP8266 or WB2L (BK7231T/S) [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963] • LED channels: 5 (R, G, B, warm white, cold white) via PWM0/1/2/4/5 [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963] • Open-source firmware: OpenBeken BK7231T v1.1.2 SDK 2.0.0-30.06 [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963]

What chipsets might I find inside this 10 W bulb?

Teardowns show either an ESP8266 module or a WB2L module using the BK7231T/S SoC [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963] Users must open the bulb to confirm before flashing.

Why must I open the bulb before flashing new firmware?

The manufacturer keeps the same product ID across revisions, so packaging never reveals the internal chipset. Flashing the wrong binary risks permanent brick [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963]

How do I flash OpenBeken with Tuya Cloudcutter?

  1. Install Cloudcutter and place the BK7231T CCtr file in /custom-firmware. 2. Start Update-Firmware mode, choose oem-bk7231s-light-ty-1.1.2-sdk-2.0.0-30.06, follow prompts. 3. Connect to the bulb’s AP, browse 192.168.x.1, set Wi-Fi, reboot [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963]

What is the 3-step post-flash configuration?

  1. Browse to the bulb IP, open Configure Module. 2. Map pins: P24→PWM2, P26→PWM0, P6→PWM1, P7→PWM4, P8→PWM3. 3. Save and test colour change [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963]

What power supply topology does the bulb use?

Inside is a 220 V capacitive-drop supply that produces 12 V DC and also passes mains to VIN—a simple, cost-cut design [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963]

What happens if I flash the wrong firmware?

The bulb can enter an unrecoverable boot loop, leaving only risky serial-pad reprogramming. "You will brick your device" warns the author [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963]

Does the bulb support both warm and cold white LEDs?

Yes. Two separate white channels give correlated colour temperatures around 2700 K and 6500 K when driven at full duty [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963]

Should I buy this bulb for DIY projects?

The teardown author states, "I don't recommend buying this bulb" due to unpredictable hardware and extra work [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963]

How many LED channels are driven in total?

Five channels—three RGB and two whites—give 16.7 million colours plus tunable white. That’s 25 % more channels than typical RGB-only bulbs [Elektroda, jookia, post #20521963]
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