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NIXIE watch as a home decoration :)

emil134679 6072 14

TL;DR

  • A finished NIXIE watch uses IN-1 and INS-1 tubes as a home decoration.
  • Compact surface-mount electronics center on a DS3231 RTC and an ATmega328 implemented as an integrated Arduino UNO with CH340G and USB-C power/programming.
  • Two 74HC595 shift registers drive the tubes through MMBTA42 and MMBTA92 transistors, and a ready-made converter provides 170 V.
  • The colon acts as the second hand, and the PCB shape was designed to fit a watch case.
  • Three free Arduino I/O ports remain for future additions like buttons or an alarm buzzer, but the woodwork is still ahead.
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  • Hello forum users,
    I present the finished design of a watch based on IN-1 + INS-1 tubes

    Four IN-1 Nixie tubes on a black circuit board display numbers with a illuminated colon, device sits on a table.

    The project assumed the greatest possible compactness of the control electronics while using the most common elements.

    So I decided on a surface mount project, using the DS3231 as a real time clock, the watch code is contained in the ATmega328 present on the PCB as an integrated Arduino UNO, hence the presence of the CH340G on board and the possibility of programming at any time via the USB C port, which also serves as power.
    The tubes are controlled by two multiplexing 74HC595 registers connected to MMBTA42 and MMBTA92 transistors.
    The 170 V boost converter is a ready-made system purchased from our friends from the east.
    On the board, in the possible need for development, there are 3 free Arduino ports that can be used as inputs/outputs (buttons, alarm clock buzzer, etc.)
    The colon, of course, serves as the second hand.
    Four IN-1 tubes mounted on a black PCB, with a connected cable ending in a plug. Clock controller printed circuit board with SMD components and a battery, held in hand.
    The shape of the printed circuit board was created with the intention of making a watch case, but the woodwork is still ahead of me. :)

    What do you think? I'm interested in your opinions. :)

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    emil134679
    Level 13  
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    emil134679 wrote 156 posts with rating 90. Been with us since 2010 year.
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  • #2 20672135
    excray
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5500
    Help: 739
    Rate: 656
    Those lamps that make for colons, what markings do they have/where did you buy them?
  • #3 20672476
    emil134679
    Level 13  
    Posts: 156
    Rate: 90
    INS-1, where you get it, you buy it there, I used to buy tubes a long time ago.
  • #4 20672493
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Posts: 30227
    Help: 1185
    Rate: 4301
    emil134679 wrote:
    What do you think? I'm interested in your opinions.

    The project was successful, but since it will be in a wooden housing, compactness was probably not that important.
    Personally, I would choose a clock on vertical lamps, similar to this one, but with an enclosed bottom. link
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  • #5 20672494
    madart
    Level 26  
    Posts: 892
    Help: 79
    Rate: 64
    Such a pretty tile that it's a shame to hide it. :)
    How is the time set? Because it's the only inconvenience when we still have the summer/winter time change. DS3231 has a very small deviation. I have two of these and they have been shining for 14 years.
  • #6 20672522
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Posts: 30227
    Help: 1185
    Rate: 4301
    madart wrote:
    Such a pretty tile that it's a shame to hide it.

    That's right, you can make a transparent casing or (if the heat exchange allows) pour a transparent resin.
  • #7 20672828
    kris8888
    Level 41  
    Posts: 6940
    Help: 532
    Rate: 1891
    madart wrote:
    I have two of these and they have been shining for 14 years

    No lamp replacement? The technical data indicate that the guaranteed lifetime for the IN-1 is only 1000 h.
  • #8 20672863
    madart
    Level 26  
    Posts: 892
    Help: 79
    Rate: 64
    One has LC-516 link . I changed the tubes a few times so that the cathodes would detoxify and once two transistors died together with the CD4028
    The advantage of the multiplex is that the lamps do not burn all the time, only about 1/6 of the time for 6 lamps, and I think it extends their life a bit.
    The second one from 2009 is probably on the Z560M, the converter from 555 to the factory Chinese one was replaced after 9 years
    Nixie clock with four glowing tubes on a fireplace mantel.
  • #9 20673189
    emil134679
    Level 13  
    Posts: 156
    Rate: 90
    vodiczka wrote:
    emil134679 wrote:
    What do you think? I'm interested in your opinions

    The project was successful, but since it will be in a wooden housing, compactness was probably not that important.
    Personally, I would choose a clock on vertical lamps, similar to this one, but with an enclosed bottom. link

    It was important because the housing is neither deep nor wide, more or less I see it as if you wrapped the presented circuit around, leaving the tube lenses outside the housing. The colleague above showed something similar and I'm going in that direction, but I still want to reduce it.
    Vertical lamps are not my taste at all, but everyone has their own taste ;)

    madart wrote:
    Such a pretty tile that it's a shame to hide it. :)
    How is the time set? Because it's the only inconvenience when we still have the summer/winter time change. DS3231 has a very small deviation. I have two of these and they have been shining for 14 years.

    PCB as PCB, the Chinese from JBC did a good job ;)
    I update the RTC if necessary by simply uploading the code.
    The watch is still able to work with the Arduino IDE via USB.
    Reports as UNO.
    And I bought a nice USB C socket with a nut for the housing on a short cable.
    I will make a round hole and install. I use the same socket to power the entire system and program it.

    I have 3 free I/O released on goldpins, so you could add some "+" "-" and "ok" to the code to set it manually.
    It's still a long way to October. Connecting the watch to the computer for 10 seconds is nothing terrible. That was my assumption.

    vodiczka wrote:
    madart wrote:
    Such a pretty tile that it's a shame to hide it

    That's right, you can make a transparent casing or (if the heat exchange allows) pour a transparent resin.

    Transparent would be nice, but it won't match anything on my desk.
    Flooding is not an option, because just like the whole thing does not heat up at all, the step-up already emits something there. I wouldn't want to risk it.
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  • #10 20673417
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Posts: 30227
    Help: 1185
    Rate: 4301
    emil134679 wrote:
    Vertical lamps are not my taste at all, but everyone has their own taste

    My taste is probably due to the fact that I first had contact with displays on vertical lamps and I remained faithful to them.
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  • #11 20673563
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    Posts: 1000
    Help: 75
    Rate: 128
    Do you have any experience with a high voltage converter controlled directly from the uC?
    At one time I wanted to make a simple PWM controlled one MOSFET transistor and a transformer from fluorescent lamps from the monitor and I don't know if it still makes sense. ;) At least controlling the brightness would be simple.
  • #13 21014097
    KarolJuszkiewicz
    Level 12  
    Posts: 183
    Help: 6
    Rate: 12
    Great project (if there was a rating, of course there would be ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐), I could do it myself. Is it possible for you to send the board design, diagram and code?
  • #14 21280047
    emil134679
    Level 13  
    Posts: 156
    Rate: 90
    @KarolJuszkiewicz I don't look on the electrode too often but yes, a matter of agreement. I still have the boards as well as the code and the tutorial left because I already had a few customers for the DIY kit :) .
  • #15 21330275
    vbiFFoarFe
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    I love the compact design and how you integrated the Arduino and other components so seamlessly. It's got a cool retro vibe with those IN-1 + INS-1 tubes. I’ve been fascinated by NIXIE tubes for a while now, and this design feels like a perfect balance of tech and vintage aesthetics.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a NIXIE watch design utilizing IN-1 and INS-1 tubes, emphasizing compactness in control electronics. The project incorporates a DS3231 real-time clock and an ATmega328 microcontroller programmed via a USB C port. The design features multiplexing with 74HC595 registers and MMBTA42/MMBTA92 transistors, alongside a 170 V boost converter. Users discuss aesthetics, housing options, and the longevity of the tubes, with suggestions for transparent casings and concerns about tube lifespan. The author offers to share the board design and code for DIY enthusiasts.
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FAQ

TL;DR: This DIY Nixie watch runs a 170 V tube supply and leaves 3 free I/O pins; it even “reports as UNO,” so makers can power and reprogram it over USB-C. It helps builders who want a compact IN-1 + INS-1 display clock and need practical answers on RTC accuracy, multiplexing, enclosure choice, and serviceability. [#20673189]

Why it matters: This thread shows how to make a very compact Nixie-style desk clock without giving up Arduino compatibility, RTC stability, or future expansion.

Enclosure option Main advantage Main drawback Best fit from the thread
Wooden case Matches desk decor and the author's plan Hides the attractive PCB Best for a finished home decoration
Transparent case Shows off the PCB and tubes May clash with room style Best if display electronics are part of the aesthetic
Resin-potted design Maximum visual neatness Heat from the boost stage makes it risky Worst fit for this specific build

Key insight: The strongest idea in the thread is not the tubes alone, but the integration: ATmega328, DS3231, USB-C power/programming, and a ready-made 170 V module on one compact PCB. That combination makes the project small, maintainable, and easy to evolve. [#20671443]

Quick Facts

  • The board integrates an ATmega328, DS3231, CH340G, and USB-C so the clock can be powered and reprogrammed without extra controller hardware. [#20671443]
  • The tube supply uses a ready-made 170 V boost converter, while the display is driven through two 74HC595 registers and MMBTA42/MMBTA92 transistors. [#20671443]
  • The design leaves 3 free Arduino I/O pins for future add-ons such as buttons or a buzzer, which directly improves serviceability and feature growth. [#20671443]
  • Reported lamp life in discussion spans from a nominal 1000 h concern for IN-1 tubes to real projects still running after 14 years, especially with multiplexed operation. [#20672828]
  • One user reports a multiplex advantage of roughly 1/6 duty cycle for a 6-lamp clock, reducing continuous on-time and helping tube longevity in practice. [#20672863]

How was the Nixie watch built around IN-1 and INS-1 tubes while keeping the electronics as compact as possible?

It was built as a surface-mount design that combines the ATmega328, DS3231 RTC, CH340G USB interface, and tube drivers on one PCB. The board presents itself as an integrated Arduino UNO, so the same USB-C port handles both power and programming. A ready-made 170 V boost module avoids a larger custom high-voltage section, which also helps reduce board area. [#20671443]

What is the INS-1 tube, and how is it used as a colon or seconds indicator in a Nixie clock?

The INS-1 is a small neon indicator tube that serves as a simple status or timing lamp, with a compact shape that suits colon dots in a clock display. In this build, two INS-1 lamps form the colon, and the author states that the colon works as the seconds indicator. [#20671443]

What is the DS3231, and why is it a good real-time clock choice for a DIY Nixie watch?

The DS3231 is a real-time clock chip that keeps calendar time independently of the main microcontroller, with low drift that makes it suitable for long-running clocks. In the thread, it was chosen as the RTC, and another user explicitly notes that the DS3231 has very small deviation, which is why it fits a DIY Nixie watch well. [#20672494]

How do the 74HC595 shift registers with MMBTA42 and MMBTA92 transistors control IN-1 Nixie tubes in a multiplexed design?

They let a low-voltage controller manage multiple high-voltage digits with fewer MCU pins. The board uses two 74HC595 shift registers connected to MMBTA42 and MMBTA92 transistors, then multiplexes the tubes so the controller updates selected digits in sequence instead of driving every cathode directly. [#20671443]

Where can you find INS-1 tubes today, and what are good substitutes if they are hard to source?

The thread gives only one concrete sourcing answer: buy INS-1 tubes wherever you can still find them. The author says he bought his tubes a long time ago and does not name a current seller, so the discussion offers no verified substitute part number for INS-1 in this project. [#20672476]

How do you set or correct the time on a Nixie clock that uses a DS3231 and an ATmega328 programmed through Arduino IDE over USB-C?

You correct the time by reconnecting the clock over USB-C and uploading updated code to the ATmega328. The author's method is simple:
  1. Connect the clock to a computer through USB-C.
  2. Open the project in Arduino IDE.
  3. Upload code that updates the DS3231 RTC. He says this takes about 10 seconds and is acceptable for seasonal time changes. [#20673189]

What are the pros and cons of adding +, -, and OK buttons for manual time setting instead of updating the RTC from a computer?

Buttons make the clock self-contained, but USB updating keeps the hardware simpler. The author says the PCB exposes 3 free I/O pins on headers, so adding "+", "-", and "OK" inputs is feasible. The trade-off is extra code and front-panel design versus a 10-second USB connection when daylight-saving time changes. [#20673189]

Why would someone choose a ready-made 170 V boost converter for a Nixie watch instead of designing the high-voltage supply from scratch?

A ready-made 170 V module saves space, reduces design effort, and speeds assembly. The author wanted maximum compactness while using common parts, so he bought the high-voltage converter as a finished unit instead of devoting PCB area and debugging time to a custom supply. That choice also kept the rest of the board focused on control electronics. [#20671443]

How do you safely power Nixie tubes from a 170 V boost converter in a small desktop clock enclosure?

You keep the high-voltage stage isolated, avoid heat-trapping potting methods, and choose an enclosure with some thermal margin. The thread gives one clear warning: the whole clock stays cool, but the step-up converter does emit heat, so the author rejects resin encapsulation. In a small desk enclosure, that means planning airflow and access instead of sealing the supply inside solid resin. [#20673189]

What experience do people have with building a high-voltage converter controlled directly from a microcontroller PWM for Nixie clocks?

The thread shows interest in it, but not a finished Nixie-clock implementation from the project author. One participant says he once wanted a simple PWM-controlled converter using one MOSFET and a transformer taken from fluorescent monitor lamps, mainly because brightness control would then be straightforward. That establishes the idea as viable hobby practice, not a documented part of this build. [#20673563]

How do newer Atmel microcontrollers like the ATTINY212 compare with a separate boost-converter module for generating Nixie tube high voltage?

Newer Atmel parts can integrate boost-control logic, while a separate module is faster to deploy. One contributor says the newer Atmel microcontrollers are "great for this" and gives an ATTINY212 example with a 30 µs period, 120 µH inductor, 12 V target, and 0.8 A current figure. By contrast, this clock uses an off-the-shelf 170 V module for simplicity and compact integration. [#20673590]

Why can multiplexing increase Nixie tube lifetime, and how much difference does a 1/6 duty cycle make in practice?

Multiplexing can extend life because each lamp is on only part of the time instead of continuously. One user explains that in a 6-lamp clock the tubes conduct for about 1/6 of the time, and he thinks this helps longevity. That matters because another post raises a nominal IN-1 lifetime concern of only 1000 h, so reduced duty directly addresses wear. [#20672863]

What causes Nixie clock driver parts like transistors or a CD4028 to fail over long-term use, and how can you prevent it?

Long runtime and stressed driver stages can eventually kill switching parts, especially in older clocks. A user reports that in one clock two transistors died together with a CD4028, while the same clock also needed tube swapping to clean the cathodes. The practical prevention lesson is to reduce thermal and electrical stress, keep the high-voltage section reliable, and expect maintenance over multi-year use. [#20672863]

Which enclosure works better for a compact Nixie desk clock: a wooden case, a transparent case, or a resin-potted design?

A wooden case fits this project best, a transparent case best displays the PCB, and resin potting is the worst option here. The author designed the PCB shape with a case in mind and says transparent housing would not match his desk. He also rejects resin because the step-up converter produces some heat, even though the rest of the clock does not noticeably warm up. [#20673189]

How can you get the PCB design, schematic, code, or even a DIY kit version of this IN-1 + INS-1 Nixie watch project?

You need to contact the project author and arrange it directly. In a later follow-up, the author says he still has the boards, code, and remaining tutorial material, and adds that he has already had a few customers for a DIY kit version. That means the design files and kit access were available by private agreement as of October 28, 2024. [#21280047]
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