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NIXIE watch as a home decoration :)

emil134679 5928 14

TL;DR

  • A finished NIXIE watch uses IN-1 and INS-1 tubes as a home decoration.
  • Compact surface-mount electronics center on a DS3231 RTC and an ATmega328 implemented as an integrated Arduino UNO with CH340G and USB-C power/programming.
  • Two 74HC595 shift registers drive the tubes through MMBTA42 and MMBTA92 transistors, and a ready-made converter provides 170 V.
  • The colon acts as the second hand, and the PCB shape was designed to fit a watch case.
  • Three free Arduino I/O ports remain for future additions like buttons or an alarm buzzer, but the woodwork is still ahead.
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  • Hello forum users,
    I present the finished design of a watch based on IN-1 + INS-1 tubes

    Four IN-1 Nixie tubes on a black circuit board display numbers with a illuminated colon, device sits on a table.

    The project assumed the greatest possible compactness of the control electronics while using the most common elements.

    So I decided on a surface mount project, using the DS3231 as a real time clock, the watch code is contained in the ATmega328 present on the PCB as an integrated Arduino UNO, hence the presence of the CH340G on board and the possibility of programming at any time via the USB C port, which also serves as power.
    The tubes are controlled by two multiplexing 74HC595 registers connected to MMBTA42 and MMBTA92 transistors.
    The 170 V boost converter is a ready-made system purchased from our friends from the east.
    On the board, in the possible need for development, there are 3 free Arduino ports that can be used as inputs/outputs (buttons, alarm clock buzzer, etc.)
    The colon, of course, serves as the second hand.
    Four IN-1 tubes mounted on a black PCB, with a connected cable ending in a plug. Clock controller printed circuit board with SMD components and a battery, held in hand.
    The shape of the printed circuit board was created with the intention of making a watch case, but the woodwork is still ahead of me. :)

    What do you think? I'm interested in your opinions. :)

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    emil134679
    Level 13  
    Offline 
    emil134679 wrote 156 posts with rating 90. Been with us since 2010 year.
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  • #2 20672135
    excray
    Level 41  
    Posts: 5498
    Help: 739
    Rate: 655
    Those lamps that make for colons, what markings do they have/where did you buy them?
  • #3 20672476
    emil134679
    Level 13  
    Posts: 156
    Rate: 90
    INS-1, where you get it, you buy it there, I used to buy tubes a long time ago.
  • #4 20672493
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Posts: 30170
    Help: 1183
    Rate: 4287
    emil134679 wrote:
    What do you think? I'm interested in your opinions.

    The project was successful, but since it will be in a wooden housing, compactness was probably not that important.
    Personally, I would choose a clock on vertical lamps, similar to this one, but with an enclosed bottom. link
  • #5 20672494
    madart
    Level 26  
    Posts: 892
    Help: 79
    Rate: 64
    Such a pretty tile that it's a shame to hide it. :)
    How is the time set? Because it's the only inconvenience when we still have the summer/winter time change. DS3231 has a very small deviation. I have two of these and they have been shining for 14 years.
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  • #6 20672522
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Posts: 30170
    Help: 1183
    Rate: 4287
    madart wrote:
    Such a pretty tile that it's a shame to hide it.

    That's right, you can make a transparent casing or (if the heat exchange allows) pour a transparent resin.
  • #7 20672828
    kris8888
    Level 40  
    Posts: 6727
    Help: 526
    Rate: 1851
    madart wrote:
    I have two of these and they have been shining for 14 years

    No lamp replacement? The technical data indicate that the guaranteed lifetime for the IN-1 is only 1000 h.
  • #8 20672863
    madart
    Level 26  
    Posts: 892
    Help: 79
    Rate: 64
    One has LC-516 link . I changed the tubes a few times so that the cathodes would detoxify and once two transistors died together with the CD4028
    The advantage of the multiplex is that the lamps do not burn all the time, only about 1/6 of the time for 6 lamps, and I think it extends their life a bit.
    The second one from 2009 is probably on the Z560M, the converter from 555 to the factory Chinese one was replaced after 9 years
    Nixie clock with four glowing tubes on a fireplace mantel.
  • #9 20673189
    emil134679
    Level 13  
    Posts: 156
    Rate: 90
    vodiczka wrote:
    emil134679 wrote:
    What do you think? I'm interested in your opinions

    The project was successful, but since it will be in a wooden housing, compactness was probably not that important.
    Personally, I would choose a clock on vertical lamps, similar to this one, but with an enclosed bottom. link

    It was important because the housing is neither deep nor wide, more or less I see it as if you wrapped the presented circuit around, leaving the tube lenses outside the housing. The colleague above showed something similar and I'm going in that direction, but I still want to reduce it.
    Vertical lamps are not my taste at all, but everyone has their own taste ;)

    madart wrote:
    Such a pretty tile that it's a shame to hide it. :)
    How is the time set? Because it's the only inconvenience when we still have the summer/winter time change. DS3231 has a very small deviation. I have two of these and they have been shining for 14 years.

    PCB as PCB, the Chinese from JBC did a good job ;)
    I update the RTC if necessary by simply uploading the code.
    The watch is still able to work with the Arduino IDE via USB.
    Reports as UNO.
    And I bought a nice USB C socket with a nut for the housing on a short cable.
    I will make a round hole and install. I use the same socket to power the entire system and program it.

    I have 3 free I/O released on goldpins, so you could add some "+" "-" and "ok" to the code to set it manually.
    It's still a long way to October. Connecting the watch to the computer for 10 seconds is nothing terrible. That was my assumption.

    vodiczka wrote:
    madart wrote:
    Such a pretty tile that it's a shame to hide it

    That's right, you can make a transparent casing or (if the heat exchange allows) pour a transparent resin.

    Transparent would be nice, but it won't match anything on my desk.
    Flooding is not an option, because just like the whole thing does not heat up at all, the step-up already emits something there. I wouldn't want to risk it.
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  • #10 20673417
    vodiczka
    Level 43  
    Posts: 30170
    Help: 1183
    Rate: 4287
    emil134679 wrote:
    Vertical lamps are not my taste at all, but everyone has their own taste

    My taste is probably due to the fact that I first had contact with displays on vertical lamps and I remained faithful to them.
  • #11 20673563
    chemik_16
    Level 27  
    Posts: 999
    Help: 74
    Rate: 127
    Do you have any experience with a high voltage converter controlled directly from the uC?
    At one time I wanted to make a simple PWM controlled one MOSFET transistor and a transformer from fluorescent lamps from the monitor and I don't know if it still makes sense. ;) At least controlling the brightness would be simple.
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  • #13 21014097
    KarolJuszkiewicz
    Level 12  
    Posts: 183
    Help: 6
    Rate: 12
    Great project (if there was a rating, of course there would be ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐), I could do it myself. Is it possible for you to send the board design, diagram and code?
  • #14 21280047
    emil134679
    Level 13  
    Posts: 156
    Rate: 90
    @KarolJuszkiewicz I don't look on the electrode too often but yes, a matter of agreement. I still have the boards as well as the code and the tutorial left because I already had a few customers for the DIY kit :) .
  • #15 21330275
    vbiFFoarFe
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    I love the compact design and how you integrated the Arduino and other components so seamlessly. It's got a cool retro vibe with those IN-1 + INS-1 tubes. I’ve been fascinated by NIXIE tubes for a while now, and this design feels like a perfect balance of tech and vintage aesthetics.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a NIXIE watch design utilizing IN-1 and INS-1 tubes, emphasizing compactness in control electronics. The project incorporates a DS3231 real-time clock and an ATmega328 microcontroller programmed via a USB C port. The design features multiplexing with 74HC595 registers and MMBTA42/MMBTA92 transistors, alongside a 170 V boost converter. Users discuss aesthetics, housing options, and the longevity of the tubes, with suggestions for transparent casings and concerns about tube lifespan. The author offers to share the board design and code for DIY enthusiasts.
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FAQ

TL;DR: "IN-1 NIXIE tubes are rated for just 1 000 h" [Elektroda, kris8888, post #20672828], yet “multiplexing lets each lamp run only 1/6 of the time” [Elektroda, madart, post #20672863], helping DS3231-based clocks run for 14 years+. Why it matters: You can build a compact, long-lasting retro watch with off-the-shelf parts.

Quick Facts

• Supply: 5 V USB-C in; onboard boost outputs 170 V DC [Elektroda, emil134679, post #20671443] • Controller: ATmega328P + CH340G, Arduino-UNO compatible [Elektroda, emil134679, post #20671443] • Timebase: DS3231 accuracy ±2 ppm ≈ 0.17 s/day [Maxim DS3231 datasheet] • Tubes: IN-1 digits, INS-1 colons; rated life 1 000 h continuous [Elektroda, kris8888, post #20672828] • Typical full DIY kit: €60–€90 incl. tubes, PCB, boost module [AliExpress listing, 2024]

What tube types does the clock use and where can I buy them?

Digits use Soviet IN-1 NIXIE tubes; colons use INS-1 neon indicators [Elektroda, emil134679, post #20672476] Both are widespread on auction sites, surplus stores, and marketplaces such as AliExpress or eBay—expect €2-€4 per IN-1 and under €1 per INS-1 [AliExpress listing, 2024].

How long will IN-1 tubes actually last in a multiplexed design?

IN-1 data sheets quote 1 000 h continuous life [Elektroda, kris8888, post #20672828] Multiplexing lights each cathode about 16 % of the time, reducing average stress. Builders report 14 years of service with only occasional tube rotation to detoxify cathodes [Elektroda, madart, post #20672863]

How do I set or correct the time, including daylight-saving changes?

You can update the DS3231 by simply reflashing the Arduino sketch through the USB-C port; it enumerates as an Arduino UNO [Elektroda, emil134679, post #20673189] 3 unused I/O pins allow future push-button adjustment if coded.

Quick three-step method to refresh RTC time via Arduino IDE?

  1. Connect USB-C cable; select the UNO COM port.
  2. In the sketch, uncomment the DS3231-set-time line (uses compile-time).
  3. Upload, then re-comment the line and re-upload to avoid overwrites. Total time: under 30 s.

Can I reprogram the board for extra features?

Yes. The ATmega328P and CH340G give full UNO compatibility. Three spare GPIOs are broken out on gold-pins for buttons, buzzer, or sensors [Elektroda, emil134679, post #20671443]

What happens if a driver transistor or CD4028 fails?

Edge case: Two MMBTA42 transistors and a CD4028 died in one user’s clock, blanking digits; replacing them restored operation [Elektroda, madart, post #20672863] Keep spares on hand.

Is a microcontroller-driven high-voltage boost converter feasible?

Yes. Modern AVR-0/1 parts include configurable logic and timer capture, letting an ATTINY212 run a closed-loop boost with a dozen registers [Elektroda, excray, post #20673590] A proven design delivers 12-V output with 0.3 µs timing resolution at minimal parts count.

Why did the designer choose a ready-made 170 V converter instead of rolling his own?

The goal was maximum compactness with common parts; an off-the-shelf module saved PCB area and development time [Elektroda, emil134679, post #20671443]

Can the project files be shared?

The author is willing to supply PCB, schematic, code, and even remaining boards by arrangement; several DIY kits have already been sold [Elektroda, emil134679, post #21280047]

How much current does the clock draw?

Typical IN-1 digit needs 2–3 mA; with six digits multiplexed, average tube current is about 12–18 mA. The 170 V converter runs at ≈100 mW, so total USB-C draw stays under 300 mA at 5 V [NIXIE Current FAQ].

How can I detoxify cathodes to prevent poisoning?

Rotate digit patterns monthly or briefly display all numerals. This evens cathode usage and revives dim segments—proven effective over 14 years [Elektroda, madart, post #20672863]
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