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How To Flash T34-Based Smart Switch from Aliexpress With Tasmota/Esphome style firmware OBK

Mati Crawn 25302 78
Best answers

How can I access the hidden UART pins and flash this T34/BK7231N AliExpress smart switch with OpenBeken firmware?

You flash it by reaching the BK7231N/T34 UART on pins 25 (RX) and 26 (TX), powering the board from a solid 3.3V source, and then using BK7231Flasher or hid_download_py to write OpenBeken [#21264891][#21327748][#21528802] The easiest access on this board is often pin 25 directly on the chip and TX via the BR4 resistor pad; if your revision hides the pads, very short probes or microsoldering may be required, and one user even had to remove the 10k resistor and capacitor on pin 25 to make it work [#21264891][#21523814] If BK7231Flasher can read but fails while writing, shorten the wires, improve the 3.3V supply, and try a different baud rate; one user fixed the issue by switching tools and flashing successfully with hid_download_py [#21357215][#21528802] After flashing, the working OBK pin map shared for this board was P14 = external S1-S2, P24 = internal button, P15 = relay, and P16 = LED negative [#21195371] If you accidentally erased the bootloader and the device no longer boots, restore the original 2MB dump or use OBK with the overwrite-bootloader option [#21323010][#21323031]
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  • #31 21321513
    marekvnl
    Level 9  
    Posts: 3
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    What connection? Any photos?
    .

    Close-up of an electronic module with soldered wires and a visible XGN relay. .

    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    This problem is quite well known and has already appeared on the forum, the symptoms are quite deceptive, reading works and writing breaks down, but it all usually comes down to improving the power supply, shortening the cables, possibly changing the USB to UART converter, or a different baud rate. It's also sometimes worth trying a higher baud, as a lower one gives errors (and vice versa).


    Thank you for the helpful suggestions. I changed the UART converter, shortened the cables and stabilised the power supply better. It went off without a problem.

    Getting bus success!
    Going to set baud rate setting (115200)!
    Will try to read device flash MID (for unprotect N):
    Flash MID loaded: 15701C
    Will now search for Flash def in out database...
    Flash def found! For: 15701C
    Flash information: mid: 15701C, icName: EN25QH16B, manufacturer: ESMT, szMem: 1000000, szSR: 1, cwUnp: 0, cwEnp: 7, cwMsk: 3C, sb: 2, lb: 4, cwdRd: 05-FF-FF-FF, cwdWr: 01-FF-FF-FF
    Entering SetProtectState(True)...
    sr: 0
    final sr: 0
    msk: 3c
    cw: 0, sb: 2, lb: 4
    bfd: 0
    SetProtectState(True) success!
    Going to do erase, start 69632, sec count 281!
    Erasing sector 69632... ok!
    (...)
    All selected sectors erased!
    Writing sector 0x11000... ok! 
    (...)
    CRC matches 0x99ADEB79!
    
    NOTE: the OBK config writing is disabled, so not writing anything extra.
    Writing file data to chip successs.[/quote]
    
    Dziękuję za pomoc, pozdrawiam serdecznie!
    .

    Edit:

    Sorry for the edit, let me still include a follow-up question.

    Flash went OK. I tried the first one without uploading the OBK configuration. I disconnected the UART and connected the device to 230VAC. I expected it to expose the AP to the first configuration like Tasmota, but it didn't (I've flashed something with openbeken before and I think that's how it worked). The device came back on the tabletop with the UART connected, but monitoring the console unfortunately I wasn't even able to see the bootloader. During the hard reboot Realterm was only showing one break event. I tried the reflash a second time, adding the config as below and also checking flag 31 - Enable UART Command Line.

    Screenshot of the tool for configuring and flashing a device with OpenBeken. .

    Both the firmware and the config uploaded without issue. Unfortunately in this case I could not see any output to the console from the boot process either. One break event and that was it. Realterm set to 115200 8N1 as standard. I also tried other speeds.

    RealTerm program interface with serial port settings. .

    When connected to 230VAC, as I expected, the device did not connect to the configured wifi network or put up its AP. I tried putting it literally next to the access point, just in case the anetna was that weak, but it didn't do anything.

    I did erase and flash a few more times with different combinations of firmware versions (latest OpenBK7231N_QIO_1.17.777.bin and older) and OBK config but no success.

    Out of curiosity I also plugged in UART2 (Pin 27 RX, Pin 28 TX) but there was no activity there either.

    Could it be that the bootlader is compacted? I didn't combine anything manually around 0x0 and only used bk7231flasher_1.3.3.

    Do you have any idea how to debug this further?

    Thanks a lot, regards!
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  • #32 21323010
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Posts: 14580
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    As long as you have a copy of the original 2MB batch, upload it, and then write OBK on it. You may have done a full erase for yourself.

    If you don't have a copy of the original batch, then upload the OBK with the bootloader:
    Spoiler:
    .
    BK7231 Easy UART Flasher user interface with selected settings for flashing. .
    .

    Also, you can try uploading any 2MB dump for the N platform from my base and then record OBK on it:
    https://github.com/openshwprojects/FlashDumps/tree/main/IoT/BK7231N

    PS: The activity is supposed to be TX2, if there's nothing there then the bootloader has probably cleared, but as I wrote above you can fix it.
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  • #33 21323031
    marekvnl
    Level 9  
    Posts: 3
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    PS: The activity is supposed to be TX2, if there is nothing there, then the bootloader has probably removed itself, but as I wrote above, you can fix it.
    .

    Thank you very much, I used the "overwrite bootloader" option (I thought of this before but was confused by the "for N/M don't use it" note) and the output on UART2 came to life.

    The device is now booting and working properly.

    I attach a snapshot of the original batch, as if anyone ever needs it.

    Thank you and best regards!
    Attachments:
    • readResult_BK7231N_QIO_2024-26-11-23-49-23.bin (2 MB) You must be logged in to download this attachment.
  • #34 21323046
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    Because in general you shouldn't perform overwrite bootloader, but from the description of the situation it seems that you have already removed it for yourself. Hence the need to do so.
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  • #35 21323324
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    Hello, I don't start the connection.
    Ubuntu and mono BK7231Flasher.exe
    Screenshot of BK7231 Easy UART Flasher program displaying connection error messages.
    TX of TTL to RX and RX of TTL to TX
    3V3 of USB UART and GND
    I touch the GND for CEN many times, I have many blue LEDs blinking (if I stay on the GND, she stops in blue or in black)
    I have reversed RX and TX for test but nothing.
    Thank you for any help.
    Close-up of an electronic circuit with a connected module via wires and USB UART. Close-up of a display showing an image of an electronic circuit board, with the label WADEO visible.
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  • #36 21323333
    divadiow
    Level 38  
    Posts: 5027
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    T34 is BK7231N chip not BK7231T

    Screenshot of BK7231 Easy UART Flasher program with BK7231T option highlighted.

    and have you tried lower baud rates? 115200
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  • #37 21323450
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    >>21323333 ok I try, thanks
  • #38 21323451
    max4elektroda
    Level 24  
    Posts: 754
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    no_cloud wrote:
    3V3 of USB UART

    This might be a problem, too. You might also try to use another power supply. This adapters usually only supply a very limited current.
  • #39 21323475
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Posts: 14580
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    divadiow wrote:
    T34 is BK7231N chip not BK7231T

    You are right, but it should still at least start the flash process. So there must be other issue elsewhere.


    See related guides, BK7231N and new flash tool:



    BK7231N and old flash tool (hid_download_py):


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  • #40 21323531
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    >>21323475 thanks, I have seen this videos ;-)

    Added after 26 [minutes]:

    ok, i have changed the baud rate and changed type (7231N)
    but nothing.
    I take this video for you see the blinking, it's ok after the reset action?
    Computer screen with BK7231 Easy UART Flasher application showing error messages.



    Big thank for your help!

    Added after 35 [minutes]:

    CEN is the pin 9? it's ok for you?
    I try 29 or 9 but nothing
    Pin layout diagram of T34 LGA36 package.
  • #41 21323731
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Posts: 14580
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    I personally don't use CEN method anymore, disconnecting power off and on seems more reliable in my opinion. Of course, you have to disconnect just VDD wire, not whole USB to UART converter...
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  • #42 21323765
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    I personally don't use CEN method anymore, disconnecting power off and on seems more reliable in my opinion. Of course, you have to disconnect just VDD wire, not whole USB to UART converter...

    YES!!! Big thangs, the adventure continues ;-)

    Added after 32 [minutes]:

    oups, i want reflash but the T34 with openbeken don't blink in blue with this method, i have don't see a instruction for that?
    i'm sorry, it's my first flash with T34 ;-)
  • #43 21323829
    max4elektroda
    Level 24  
    Posts: 754
    Help: 48
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    no_cloud wrote:
    reflash but the T34 with openbeken don't blin

    Reflash means, the device already was flashed with OpenBeken?
    Then it's much easier to flash another version over the air using the present version (Web Application).
    If not: did you try another power source?

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    If I remember correctly, my led was permanently lit low in blue during flashing.
  • #44 21323865
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    Mati Crawn wrote:
    {
          "vendor": "Tuya",
          "bDetailed": "0",
          "name": "WiFi Switch",
          "model": "",
          "chip": "BK7231N",
          "board": "T34",
          "keywords": [
            "",
            "",
            ""
          ],
    "pins": {
    "6": "LED_n;0",
    "14": "TglChanOnTgl;0",
    "15": "Rel;0",
    "24": "TglChanOnTgl;0"
          },
          "image": "https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/5168873200_1714224899.png",
          "wiki": "https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4051203.html"
        },

    how import your config in web app?
  • #46 21324762
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    >>21324039 Thank you, I have not seen this tutorial.

    Added after 22 [minutes]:

    Very nice job!!!
    Web application is simple and perfect, good job!
  • #47 21327734
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    I have this variant.
    Close-up of a green circuit board with various electronic components.
    Should I post this variant somewhere on the site and then share it?

    Do you have an idea for the ground and the 3V3?
  • #48 21327748
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    One of good and reliable methods of finding GND and 3.3V pins is to look for the LDO regulator on the board. Your board has AMS1117-3.3V available, which pinout is widely known, as shown below:

    Diagram of AMS1117 regulator with pin labels.
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  • #49 21327808
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    Big thanks but I have tried many times.
    I have not the alimentation, I have not the led blinking.

    A other day, maybe ;-)
  • #50 21335520
    leonardocapone
    Level 5  
    Posts: 11
    Hi there! Just a quick tip for those who found it difficult to get T-34 into programming...
    I've kept pressing the small onboard push button and it seems to me an easier "way-out" instead of cycling power.

    Moreover and just for your info, I've received 4 of those t-34 based mini smart switches...at first they looked the same...however, I found one of them slightly different in dimensions;
    for that, LED pin is not 6, but 24...I guess that comes from a different manufacturer or it is an updated/previous version

    Have a good one!
    L.
  • #51 21336094
    zilplayzil
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Hello!
    After programming with OpenBK and activating in Home Assistant via MQTT I only got On/Off, the other information is inactive. Do you have any ideas?

    Screenshot of the Home Assistant user interface with device and MQTT diagnostic information. Simple electronic setup on a wooden board with a relay, capacitor, and wires with clips.
  • #52 21336884
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Posts: 14580
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    For a quick test, you can manually run publishAll/b] command in OBK and check if it changes anything. Then you can make sure if "publish" flags are enabled, there are flags like "publish self state on MQTT connect" ,etc
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  • #53 21339157
    zilplayzil
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    publishAll worked !
    and
    Flag 19 - [MQTT] Always publish channels used by TuyaMCU
    Flag 2 - [MQTT] Broadcast self state every N (def: 60) seconds (delay configurable by 'mqtt_broadcastInterval' and 'mqtt_broadcastItemsPerSec' commands)

    Thank you for your help!
  • #54 21352116
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    >>21327748
    ok, it's the good alimentation, I have blue blink.
    But I can't flash.
    I have this component, it's the same as T34?
    Close-up of BK7231N integrated circuit on a circuit board.
  • #55 21352205
    zilplayzil
    Level 2  
    Posts: 3
    Yes, T34 is a cod for BK7231N.
  • #56 21352245
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    >>21352205
    thanks, I retry ;-)

    Added after 1 [hours] 2 [minutes]:

    i'm sorry, i have not falshing thos model.
    i takes photos, do you have a idea?
    i post video for binking.
    Circuit board with attached probes on a desk.
    Close-up of a circuit board with electronic components under magnification.


  • #57 21352342
    divadiow
    Level 38  
    Posts: 5027
    Help: 438
    Rate: 891
    how come you're going for the legs directly? are these two test pads not RX/TX?

    Close-up of a circuit board with an integrated circuit and traces.
  • #58 21353401
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    >>21352342
    Thanks for your help.
    I can try your idea but I think, it's not my problem ... maybe.
  • #59 21354495
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    >>21352342
    Hello, you are in the right, it's pass for test but not for TX, just RX.
    I try this morning....
  • #60 21355507
    no_cloud
    Level 6  
    Posts: 20
    Rate: 1
    >>21352342
    I think you are in the right!
    I have no T34 but bk7231n and I have read pins is not the last and before but just one before.

    I have moved TX and RX but nothing.
    I don't understand.

    I post 2 videos.
    First for you see my installation (maybe I have a problem? (green for TX in my USB/TTL in bottom in my BK)
    The second video is for the blinking.
    I have seen 3 blinking different, slowly, middle and very fast.
    I think very fast is for flashing.... no?

    ps: my dupont power pin is very bad and a little move is perfect for <250ms stop power and I see the TX light green. It's ok.

    Any help is very appreciated for me. I working 3 days and I have no results.

    Big thanks!!




Topic summary

✨ The discussion focuses on flashing T34-based smart switches purchased from AliExpress, which use the BK7231N chip, with custom firmware such as OpenBeken (OBK), Tasmota, or ESPHome-style firmware. Two hardware variants were identified: one with the pushbutton on the back and another on the front, both sharing the same baseboard design. Users encountered challenges flashing these devices using the Tuya Cloudcutter due to firmware version 1.3.10 being non-flashable via cloud methods. Successful flashing requires direct UART access, often achieved by soldering or using needle pins on test pads or chip pins 25 (RX) and 26 (TX). A pull-down resistor labeled BR4 on the PCB aids in accessing the TX pin. Power supply stability is critical; USB-TTL adapters often lack sufficient current, so external 3.3V power supplies or powering through the AMS1117-3.3V regulator input are recommended. Short, direct wiring and proper connection of RX/TX lines (crossed correctly) are essential to avoid communication errors. Flashing tools like BK7231Flasher sometimes fail due to power or connection issues; alternatives like hid_download_py have proven more reliable. Some users reported needing to overwrite the bootloader to restore UART functionality. For newer or different board revisions, microsoldering and hardware modifications (removing resistors/capacitors) may be necessary. The community shared various soldering techniques, including solder-less needle pin methods and glue gun fixtures for stable connections. MQTT integration with Home Assistant works well after flashing, though some configuration flags may need adjustment to enable full telemetry. Additionally, a variant with an unmarked RF chip (possibly SYN531R) was discussed, with suggestions to analyze its protocol for remote control support. Overall, the thread provides detailed practical advice on hardware identification, wiring, power considerations, flashing procedures, and firmware configuration for T34/BK7231N smart switches from AliExpress.
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FAQ

TL;DR: 4 switches were flashed, and after the first success the next 3 took about 10 minutes; as one expert put it, "it's fiddly but totally doable." This FAQ helps anyone replacing unsupported Tuya 1.3.10 firmware on T34 mini switches with OpenBeken over UART, using needle contacts or the BR4 test-point workaround. [#21062328]

Why it matters: These AliExpress mini switches often ship in mixed hardware revisions, so a repeatable UART method saves hours of failed Cloudcutter attempts.

Method Works on Tuya 1.3.10 in thread Physical difficulty Main risk Best use case
Tuya Cloudcutter No Low Unsupported firmware Quick check before opening
UART with needles Yes High Slipping and shorting pins 25/26 Glued T34 modules
UART via BR4 for TX Yes Medium Still need RX on pin 25 Easier access to pin 26
hid_download_py Yes Medium Extra setup When BK7231Flasher reads but fails to write

Key insight: The hard part is not firmware selection. It is stable electrical access: short wires, solid 3.3 V power, and the right RX/TX contact points decide whether flashing works.

Quick Facts

  • The board mapping reported for the original T34 switch is relay on P15, external S1/S2 on P14, onboard button on P24, and an active-low LED on P6. [#21062328]
  • Multiple users reported that 115200 baud helped unstable reads, but one successful write completed only after switching back to 921600 baud after erase. [#21310912]
  • Power stability matters more than tool version: one failed setup triggered a Windows USB unplug sound every time 3.3 V was reconnected, pointing to inrush or overload. [#21224931]
  • The device backup size shown in the thread is 0x200000 bytes, and a full dump was saved as 2 MB before recovery work. [#21321496]
  • A later hidden-pin board revision may require removing a 10 kΩ pull-up network near pin 25 and microsoldering because pin 26 had no usable pad. [#21523814]

How do I flash a T34-based Tuya mini smart switch from AliExpress with OpenBeken using UART when Tuya Cloudcutter does not support firmware 1.3.10?

Use UART flashing instead of Cloudcutter. 1. Open the case and power the board from 3.3 V and GND. 2. Contact T34 pin 25 with UART TX and pin 26 with UART RX, often using needle probes. 3. Flash OpenBeken with BK7231Flasher; after the first successful unit, three more were flashed in about 10 minutes. The original poster confirmed Tuya firmware 1.3.10 was not supported by Cloudcutter on this switch. [#21062328]

What is the T34 module in these Tuya smart switches, and how does it relate to the BK7231N chip?

T34 is the Tuya Wi-Fi module built around the BK7231N chip. "T34" is a Tuya radio module that provides Wi‑Fi control, and its key characteristic in this thread is a BK7231N-based design hidden or glued onto the switch PCB. Users repeatedly identified these mini switches as T34 boards and selected BK7231N firmware when flashing them. One reply even corrected a failed setup by noting that T34 is BK7231N, not BK7231T. [#21323333]

What is OpenBeken (OBK), and how is it used on T34 smart switches instead of Tasmota or ESPHome-style firmware?

OpenBeken is the replacement firmware used here to run the T34 switch locally after UART flashing. "OpenBeken" is device firmware that replaces Tuya software, exposes a web app and MQTT features, and is used on BK7231N hardware where ESP-style local control is wanted without the original cloud stack. In this thread, users flashed OBK, imported a JSON pin map, paired it with Wi‑Fi, and integrated it with Home Assistant through MQTT. [#21324762]

Which pins on this T34 smart switch board should be mapped for relay, LED, external S1/S2 input, and the onboard button?

Map relay to P15, LED to P6, external S1/S2 input to P14, and the onboard button to P24. The original JSON used LED_n on pin 6, Rel on pin 15, and toggle functions on pins 14 and 24. A later refinement changed P24 from a hold-style toggle to Btn_Tgl_All;0, so each press toggled the relay without needing a long hold. [#21195371]

Where can I access RX and TX on glued-down T34 modules, including the BR4 resistor trick for pin 26?

Access RX directly on T34 pin 25 and access TX either on pin 26 or at resistor BR4. The useful shortcut is that BR4 exposes the TX line on the side marked “4,” while the other side is GND. That leaves only pin 25 to touch on the module itself, which is easier because it sits on the outer corner. Several later users confirmed the BR4 method made contact much easier. [#21264891]

Why does BK7231Flasher read the chip successfully but fail during erase or write on these T34 switches?

It usually fails because the wiring or power is marginal under write load. One user read the full 2 MB dump successfully, including the encryption key, but erase failed at sector 69632 with a serial buffer error. After changing the UART converter, shortening wires, and stabilizing power, the same board erased and wrote normally. Read operations can succeed even when write current spikes expose a weak setup. [#21321513]

What is the best way to power a T34 board during flashing: USB-TTL 3.3V, an external 3.3V supply, or feeding 5V into the AMS1117 input?

Use a solid external 3.3 V supply first; use USB-TTL 3.3 V only as a last resort. Several failures were traced to weak adapter power, while stable external power or a better regulator fixed them. If you avoid a separate LDO, one thread expert suggested feeding 5 V into the board’s AMS1117 input so the onboard regulator still produces 3.3 V, though success depends on the board’s capacitors. [#21357215]

Why does reconnecting the 3.3V wire make Windows play the USB disconnect sound during flashing attempts?

That sound usually means your power setup is overloading the USB port. The thread diagnosis was inrush current from the board’s capacitors or an accidental 3.3 V-to-GND short. In the reported case, reconnecting only the 3.3 V wire still made Windows play the plug/unplug sound, which pointed to a power problem rather than a flasher bug. A stronger supply or separate device power was the recommended fix. [#21224931]

How should I put a BK7231N/T34 device into flashing mode: power cycling VDD, using CEN, or holding the onboard push button?

Power cycling only the device VDD is the most reliable method in this thread. One expert explicitly said he no longer uses CEN because disconnecting and reconnecting VDD works better, while keeping the USB-UART adapter powered the whole time. Another user reported that holding the small onboard push button also made entry easier than cycling power on some units. Use CEN only if VDD cycling is impractical. [#21335520]

When flashing fails on a T34 switch, what troubleshooting steps help most with wire length, baud rate, UART adapters, and contact quality?

Shorter wires, lower initial baud, better probes, and a stronger adapter help most. 1. Keep RX/TX leads under about 10 cm if possible and inspect for bridges under magnification. 2. Try 115200 baud first, then test higher speeds if write fails. 3. Swap the USB-UART converter and verify RX/TX contact with a meter. One expert summarized the process: “it’s fiddly but totally doable.” [#21121760]

How do I restore a T34/BK7231N switch that no longer boots, shows no AP, and appears to have lost its bootloader after flashing?

Restore the original 2 MB dump if you have it, then flash OpenBeken again. If you do not have a dump, flash a full 2 MB BK7231N image with bootloader included. In the thread, a board showed no AP and no useful UART output until the user used the overwrite-bootloader path; after that, TX2 output returned and the device booted normally. Missing TX2 activity was treated as the key sign of a lost bootloader. [#21323031]

What does the 'overwrite bootloader' option do in BK7231Flasher, and when is it appropriate on BK7231N devices?

It rewrites the bootloader area, and you should use it only to recover a board that already lost its bootloader. The maintainer said you should not use overwrite bootloader in normal BK7231N flashing. He recommended it only after symptoms showed the bootloader had already been erased, such as no TX2 startup output and no AP after flashing. In that recovery case, the option brought the device back to life. [#21323046]

BK7231Flasher vs hid_download_py for T34 switches: which tool works better when reading succeeds but writing keeps failing?

hid_download_py is the better fallback when BK7231Flasher can read but repeatedly fails to write. A later user on Ubuntu 24 reported that BK7231Flasher read keys and efuse, then failed on memory operations, while hid_download_py successfully read and wrote the same T34 board. He flashed OpenBK7231N_QIO_1.18.92.bin, the module booted, and Home Assistant integration worked, with the pin configuration loading automatically. [#21528802]

How do I import the JSON device configuration into the OpenBeken web app after flashing a T34 smart switch?

Import the JSON in the OpenBeken web application after the firmware is already running. One user asked exactly how to load the posted T34 JSON, and the response pointed him to the web-app workflow video. He then confirmed the web application was simple and worked well. In practice on this thread, users flashed OBK first, then applied the JSON mapping so relay, LED, and switch pins matched the hardware. [#21324762]

What is the flashing method for the newer T34/BK7231N board revision with hidden pins, altered pull-up components on pin 25, and no obvious TX pad for pin 26?

Use microsoldering, and expect the newer revision to be much harder than the original board. One report said pin 25 was tied through a 10 kΩ pull-up resistor and a capacitor, both had to be removed, and pin 26 had no usable connection at all. The successful method was to remove the chip, create a fake pad, resolder the chip, and only then flash it. This is the edge case where needle probes stop being practical. [#21523814]
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