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Blackout lighting? A practical, versatile, low-cost and energy-efficient way

p.kaczmarek2 4617 29
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  • Five 12V batteries and six different LED strip reels arranged on ceramic tiles. .
    With the increasing risk of power cuts, many people are looking for a simple, reliable and cost-effective solution for emergency room lighting. In this thread, I would like to introduce a practical and flexible lighting system based on a 12-volt LED strip with brightness control (dimmer) that can be powered in a variety of ways - from a regular power supply, to powerbanks (both with and without QC), to batteries charged from a photovoltaic installation.

    The system shown here is much more practical than simply collecting more torches and lights, as it can be used normally in everyday life. LED strips are increasingly ubiquitous in our homes and many people simply prefer this type of lighting. This is where I would like to take advantage of this.

    An additional advantage of the presented solution is the control of the brightness level of the lighting, that is also necessarily the energy consumption. It can be conveniently adjusted to the current situation, for example, we increase the light level while reading and reduce it while resting to save energy.

    The most popular LED strips are powered by 12 V. It just so happens that 12V is also the voltage available from a powerbank supporting the QC standard, which can be triggered using a simple QC trigger circuit. A similar voltage is also found in many rechargeable batteries.

    With this knowledge now in hand, we only need to take one small step forward and come up with the idea of simply being able to switch our belt between a 12V mains supply (normal operation - when power is available) and emergency power (our chosen solution).

    Basis of the kit - LED strip .
    The base of the kit is just the LED strip, preferably for 12V, of course I mean 12V DC (12v DC). There are commercially available strips for other voltages, but it seems to me that these are less practical and versatile, especially as the whole idea is to power this strip from different power sources. In addition to the power supply voltage, there are a few more things to look at when buying one, such as:
    - power consumption per metre - this also depends on the type of LEDs and their density; based on this, we will then select a power supply unit
    - colour of light - here we rather choose between different white temperatures; for the home, warm white (approx. 2700-3000K) or neutral (4000-4500K) is best; cold white (6000K and above) may be too 'office-like'. I would rather not consider RGB colours here at all
    - protective (IP) layer - if the strip is to be installed in areas exposed to dust or moisture (e.g. bathrooms, kitchens, balconies), it is worth choosing a variant with a silicone layer or with an IP65 and higher protection class
    - easy to cut and solder - some strips have clear cut point markings and properly routed soldering pads, which makes it very easy to adjust the length and join the segments.
    The photo shows the LED strips I have in stock at the moment, as you can see there are various types and shades, there is something to suit everyone:
    Various 12V LED strip reels held in a hand, showing different types and light shades. .
    The strip is mounted in a convenient place, the strip should be covered with adhesive tape on the underside, but I will discuss mounting in detail in another topic.

    Connecting the belt .
    The whole point of the game is to be able to easily switch the belt to another power supply if necessary. It just so happens, that a solution to this problem already exists - many products for LED strips are based on a 2.1/5.5mm DC Jack connector:
    White cable switch with DC Jack 2.1/5.5 mm connectors for LED strip. .
    This type of switch is purchasable for about £5 in our country, and it is also possible to take it apart and use the wires with the connectors in other ways, such as soldering them to the LED strip. I myself also have quite a collection of sockets and plugs collected over the years for this purpose too:
    Three containers with various DC Jack connectors and a screw terminal adapter held by pliers in the foreground. .
    I also really like the DC jack to screw terminal plug/socket converter shown here. Small and useful. If necessary, you can quickly switch the belt to another power supply or, well, to an emergency power supply, e.g. from a powerbank or battery.


    Brightness control .
    A simple dimmer module will be used here to control the lighting level. Such a dimmer plugs into the 12V line, between the power supply and the strip, and adjusts its brightness via PWM (pulse width modulation). I described the simplest dimmer in the topic about Bowi 002066 12V 8A .
    Manual LED dimmer in a plastic enclosure with a knob and screw terminals, placed on a workbench. .
    Dimmers with WiFi or remote control are also popular, for example such as the one from Tuya , but I go on the assumption that the basis of purchase is the buttons. If such a dimmer doesn't have buttons and can only be controlled from WiFi/remote/remote, then it's useless, and you need to either change the firmware and add buttons , or choose another model.
    The operation of the PWM has also been shown in the past:
    Smartphone with WiFi lighting control app, Hantek oscilloscope, and LED strip on a table. Smartphone with a WiFi light control app, Hantek oscilloscope showing PWM signal, and glowing LED strip on a floor. A smartphone controlling LED lighting and an oscilloscope measuring the PWM signal on a LED strip. .
    More ambitious people can make the dimmer themselves. You can take a look at my designs based on PIC microcontrollers:
    PIC12F1612 LED strip dimmer with EEPROM, using parts from scrap .
    PIC12F683 and SDCC - tutorial - we create a simple dimmer (read datasheet notes) .

    Power supply .
    The power supply converts the mains voltage (230V AC) into a low DC voltage of 12V for the LED strip. The power supply should be selected for the specific kit, more specifically the current capacity of the power supply must be greater than what our entire kit will draw, preferably with a considerable safety margin. For example, if we bought 3 metres of a 9W/m LED strip, we need at least 3*9W, 27W, and in practice I would give a 40W power supply (the power at the input of the power supply does not take into account the losses on the power supply itself, plus the market is flooded with low quality, heating power supplies, and it would be better not to run them for long at the edge of their specification). A small LED strip can be powered from a smaller, universal 12V DC power supply:
    AC-DC power adapter 12V 2A with DC Jack plug held in a hand. .
    Alternatively, you can buy a power supply designed for LEDs. I have already presented this type of power supply on the forum:
    LED furniture power supply ZL-M-12V-62 12V 5A 60W Koloren - interior and short test .
    Interior of LED power supply MRS-350-24-S-C 350W 24V 14.6A .
    LED 12V 150W DS-150-12 Superior Driver - interior, short test
    LED 12V 5A 60W DS-60-12 Superior Driver - interior, short test .
    You can also modify the power supply with a slightly different voltage. I was able to convert a laptop power supply in this way, for example:
    Converting a power supply from a 19V laptop to a 12V LED strip power supply, problems encountered .

    Powering from a powerbank with QC support .
    Now let's consider emergency power supply. To start with, the simplest option - a powerbank. A powerbank normally offers a DC voltage of 5V, but for some time now it has become popular to use a USB connector to provide a higher voltage to speed up the charging of devices. Among other things, this is made possible by the QC, or quick charge, standard. In this way, it is possible to draw 12V DC from the powerbank, which is the voltage we need.
    Powerbank connected to a voltage meter displaying 12.03V and 0.000A. .
    However, we will need a small module - the so-called QC trigger. It is this that plugs into the USB port from the powerbank and tells it that we want a voltage not of 5V, but of 12V. Such a module is very cheap, you can buy it for a few zlotys. Set the voltage using the DIP switches. Connect it to the powerbank, wake up the powerbank with a button if necessary and you are done:
    QC/PD USB Type-C trigger module on a purple PCB, featuring a USB-C socket, DIP switches, and power output terminals. .
    If you want more control and a display showing the voltage, then you can also use the QC Trigger tool with buttons. I have described it in more detail here: Minitest: QC 2.0 3.0 charger tester/trigger i.e. 12V with USB .
    QC tester with blue LCD display showing 12.12 V and 0.000 A, connected to a charger via USB port. .
    Before using a powerbank in this way, it is also customary to check its current capacity. Just like with a power supply - the powerbank must be able to deliver at least as much current as our belt will want to draw. Look for information on the current capacity of our model in the manual or on its case. An overloaded powerbank will simply switch off, but this can also be dealt with - simply reduce the brightness level with a dimmer and thus reduce the current draw.
    I've been testing powerbanks for a while now, so you can see what models are proven:
    Powerbank 40Ah with QC giving even 12V output? Test of 40Ah, 20Ah, 10Ah models .
    Test of JR-L002 10000 mAh Jelly 22.5W powerbank capacity with QC .
    Great 60Ah powerbank - PEA60 Romoss PEA601522142 - capacity and QC test .
    Short test of Lynxer 30000mAh and 20000mAh 22.5W powerbanks with QC
    Test of Baseus powerbanks - PPBD10K, PPBD20, PPBD30K - actual capacities .

    Power from a powerbank without QC (additional step up converter) .
    However, not all powerbanks offer the QC standard. I've also commented a few times on the forum that it's easy to come across products advertised as "fast charging" but not supporting the QC standard. It's just that manufacturers and retailers like to boast about "Fast Charging" which is really just a marketing gimmick and not actual support of the QC standard....
    In such a situation, we will have to somehow convert 5V DC to 12V DC.
    USB Boost converter DC 5V to 12V with DC plug, model KWS-912V, displayed on a white background beside product description and price. .
    It is very important to select an inverter with the right power - by a wide margin.


    Power supply from battery .
    This type of LED strip can also be powered directly from a battery with a nominal voltage of 12V. In practice, the voltage of the battery is not constant, but fluctuates depending on how charged it is - typically ranging from around 11V (when discharged) to as much as 14V (when fully charged and charging). Our LED strip is at 12V, so inevitably when the battery is full a slightly higher current will flow through it, resulting in it being brighter, hotter and potentially shortening the life of the LEDs, but this is not a problem in an emergency situation. You can always 'help' the LEDs a little by changing the dimmer setting or possibly give a couple of 1N4007 rectifier diodes in series to lower the voltage.
    Two black 12V 7.2Ah gel batteries from MegaBAT and a spool of soldering tin on a white background. .
    You need a rectifier to charge such a battery, but that is a bit beyond this topic:
    TEKAN ELECTRONICS battery charger with display, cables, and power plug, partially visible battery. TEKAN Electronics battery charger with LCD display, power cord, and battery clamps. .
    The cable itself from the battery (terminals and jack plug) is worth preparing in advance.

    Power from battery (charged from photovoltaics) .
    With a battery already in place, you can go one step further and add a tiny solar panel along with a charge controller. I have been testing just such a solution for a few years now, and I have to say that even the "100W" version (in practice 25W) combined with a couple of small batteries makes it possible to run LED lights at night and charge mobile devices on the allotment during the day, as I described in more detail in
    separate topic 66x28cm "100W" panel from China .
    Solar kit: photovoltaic panel in bubble wrap, charge controller, accessories, and manual on the floor. .
    Such a solution already allows, among other things, the regular use of lighting, as long as the sun recharges the set during the day, and phones can also be charged this way, but that's for another thread.... (then you need to have in turn a 12V -> 5V inverter).

    In summary , my suggestion is a dimmable LED strip, normally mains-powered, but allowing a possible simple switch to a powerbank (with a 12V QC trigger) or battery (also 12V). This has the following advantages:
    + the cost is small or zero, depends how you look at it, but you can use the LED strip normally
    + the kit shown here does not need to be bought specifically for 'prepping for the apocalypse', but can be used normally every day
    + ... ... and so the whole thing can easily convince the household members, it is more practical than a collection of torches in the garage
    + I myself have just such LED strips in the kitchen, above the window, on the cupboard, etc., each has a DC Jack connector, so you can switch any to emergency power if necessary
    + the popularity of powerbanks with QC increases the attractiveness of the set, because we may already have such a powerbank, so it is enough to buy the QC trigger itself and you can have a ready "setup" for a blackout
    + infinitely variable control of the bar's brightness level allows you to select the level of lighting and energy consumption to suit your current needs
    So what are the disadvantages of such a solution? It's hard for me to list anything specific here, but certainly:
    - installation of the LED strip may require soldering (soldering the wires to the strip once), and not everyone has a soldering iron
    - the battery version may not be practical, because who would keep a battery (and still charge it) waiting for a blackout for years, but this solves my QC powerbank idea
    I use the approach shown here in practice and in a variety of places, which I can even show, although my LED strip connection is not rather aesthetically pleasing, it is actually a temporary solution that has been made permanent. Pictured is my DIY dimmer with push buttons and WiFi control and my other dimmer (push button only) from the kitchen:
    A hand holds a DC plug connected to a black module with several buttons. Next to it lies a 12V power adapter with a cord and DC plug. Close-up of power cables connected to a white enclosure under a shelf, showing a DC Jack connector and wires powering an LED strip. .
    The question of cost remains - prices vary, but a metre of LED strip can be bought for £5-10, a 12V power supply for, say, 2A for £10-20, the small stuff will also come out to a dozen or so. The basic configuration, when added up, will not exceed the cost of 50 PLN, to which you need to add the cost of the powerbank with QC and QC trigger (this one is a pittance), so probably buying from 0 you will fit into the budget of 150 PLN, depending on the capacity of the powerbank. Of course, this is an extreme example, as we probably have a 12V power supply of some sort in stock, as well as cables, and I also reckon that we won't be buying a powerbank specifically for this project, as we'd rather use it in general too....
    Finally, I'd like to add that a more typical torch, preferably one that can be recharged from USB, will also certainly come in handy. I myself have been using Nextool for years and have been satisfied.
    And what ways, plans, do you have for lighting in case of power cuts? Are you prepared for one or two nights of blackout, or are you hoping it won't happen to you? .
    PS: This topic has somewhat only covered lighting, I am also preparing material discussing other, equally important issues... .

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    About Author
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote 12105 posts with rating 10102, helped 579 times. Been with us since 2014 year.
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  • #2 21537999
    @GUTEK@
    Level 31  
    As emergency lighting, I recommend camping lights. They work well not only for a tent, but also to light up a room or a cave😉.

    For example: https://military.pl/p/sofirn/lampa-sofirn-lt1s-black-z-akumulatorem-500-lumenow-2837731
    Admittedly here quite expensive, but at the Chinese you can get them for about 100zł.
    This has 500lm which is the equivalent of a traditional 50W bulb, plus it can serve as an emergency powerbank.
    For this, I recommend getting spare 21700 or 18650 batteries.

    I don't have this one myself, but I do have a weaker Fenix CL25R type. The lamp is armoured and the 300lm it has is also sufficient to light up the room.
  • #3 21538011
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    In terms of sheer portability, what you have shown is definitely a better solution and I also have this type of light myself:
    Powerbank USB COB LED flashlight/portable light HP1807 rechargeable from USB .
    Plastic flashlight-powerbank from China for 18650 cells, "800W" .
    Workbench/garage/side-by-side LED USB C - interior, cell capacity test .
    It's worth having a few of these too, but in terms of lighting up the room/bedroom/itd itself, I think it's the belt and powerbank that comes out more practical. As someone who travels at least a little, the powerbank with QC may also already have one, and LED strips are often fitted anyway, reducing the cost of all the fun to essentially.... the cost of the QC trigger?
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  • #4 21538063
    ppwielki
    Level 25  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    And what ways, plans, do you have for lighting up in case of power cuts? Are you prepared for one or two nights of blackout, or do you count on it not happening to you?
    I have off grid PV and in addition 24V lighting (18 5W/12V bulbs).
    ps. hot water will not run out either.
  • #5 21538147
    VaM VampirE
    Level 22  
    I, as protection for my homelab and VM server, have a 1kW online UPS + three 42Ah batteries.
    This has kept me current at home for years, I have my desk on the line fed from this UPS, no gaming comp is plugged in there.
    I can get about 7 hours of work out of it.

    For ROD in winter and field trips I have an Ecoflow River 2 Pro + Honda EU10i. It's not like they are lying around with no use.
    In the event of a severe power failure, the Ecoflow will last a really long time, and recharging it from the Honda is an hour (there are also panels for it, but they also cost money, as long as the voltage matches).
    Fuel isn't a problem, as I've always rotated a couple of carnies every month for I can't remember how many years, and I keep something of the fuel in reserve.
    When there were those big panics over fuel a few years ago, it went down like rain on a duck.

    For that, powerbanks with a PD of 60-80W are very cool, the more powerful ones are a bit more expensive.
    It's good to have one powerbank with a car starter option, I've had a baseus in this role for years and there isn't a winter that I don't rescue someone with it.

    But that's me and I used to scramble more with topics like this.

    Of simple things and cheaper.
    If someone has power tools then a USB adapter with a battery from a drill can be used as a cool powerbank.
    So you can use such rechargeable batteries for yourself if you need to, likewise system torches from a particular manufacturer are sometimes at a good price.

    In the case of Baseus, the USB-C triggers are the simplest + PD power packs, which are suitable for radios and work without problems.
    As long as no one goes crazy with the transmitting power, mine is fine.

    Torches for standard Li-Ion cells, AA/AAA chargers with USB port, spare eneloops.
    Laptop/tablet with USB-C/Thunderbolt - these can be powered from almost anything, not like the old clunkers that only fly on chargers where you need an inverter for 230V.
    For cooking, if you don't have gas, a small Jetboil will do, but small screw-on cartridge burners are OK too.
    There are also multi-burner cookers, but these are becoming pro sports.

    In general, at a time when the majority of flats/houses have single/double-function gas cookers, with no other heating option, an emergency power supply is something that will quickly pay for itself in the event of some drama in winter. Those who have heat pumps, it's a chicken hardship. Those with old cookers, fireplaces and non inventions of the past, cool, but not everyone can have them.

    I bought my parents a Honda 3000 AVR years ago, it withstood several grid failures, including one where a tree fell on the line and they had no power for several days. Only my dad drove to get fuel.
    The Honda did 24/7, I wouldn't recommend this particular model because it smokes mercilessly, just a normal builder in a frame with AVR, no sine, but it did manage.

    It can be cheap, it can be expensive, it can be very expensive, but it's nice to have something.
    Ideally, it would never be useful in terms of blackout.
  • #6 21538199
    jarewa
    Level 33  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    unreliable
    .
    It is not a simple solution, because you have to look after the battery to keep it charged and in working order so this system fails. However, the oldest system cannot be replaced by a "candle / paraffin lamp".
    ppwielki wrote:
    I have an off grid PV and additionally lighting on 24V (18 bulbs 5W/12V).
    ps. hot water will not be missing either.
    .
    Cool, but you didn't take into account that a power outage can occur for longer and hit very heavy production days. What very often happens gale force winds spoil the weather precipitation cloudy.
  • #7 21538216
    E8600
    Level 41  
    I would strongly consider that if we have light and dark all around, are we not attracting potential problems? Darkness is a small problem, but it is worse if we depend on electricity for heating or drinking water.
  • #8 21538224
    VaM VampirE
    Level 22  
    I doubt that an LED strip, or a tourist lamp = neon on the house + garden lights.
    No one is telling anyone to plug anything into a lighting circuit, to do mains/backup switching.
    In fact, it's a very bad solution because it unnecessarily increases energy consumption.

    In the event of a power outage, you keep the power supply, cooker and fridge on, as well as optional digital farts.
    Lighting can safely be kept to a minimum.

    Two, we are talking about a blackout, not an outage for a week, then the fact would be a different discussion.
    Such a Warsaw a week without electricity would be madmax ^^.
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  • #9 21538261
    Marcin125
    Level 29  
    I understand that this kind of "kit" is common in Ukraine where there has been war for years.... as if anyone hadn't noticed. :)

    He suggests a generator and a canister of petrol or two.
    For entertainment, chess and cards - they're such multiplayer games only they don't use electricity.
  • #10 21538263
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    With the battery pack, that's right, for this reason I deliberately only showed it as a second solution, a transitional one so to speak, to form with the photovoltaics. I took the option with the powerbank as a priority, because both the LED strip with hardware and the powerbank are things we potentially already have and can use in our daily life, which reduces the cost and improves the fun.

    With that using batteries from power tools is a good idea, I'd forgotten about that, and I have those too. It's also easy to buy an adaptor, although I made my own: Design and print adapter/cap for Makita BL1830 18V battery .
    A set of inexpensive cordless power tools: an angle grinder, a drill driver, a charger, and a battery on light brown tiles. .
    Just have to look at what voltage it gives....

    As for the ideas given in the comments, in my opinion they are as cool as can be, but it's somehow no longer the budget as for the LED strip option (everyday use) + home powerbank (to use for travel, camping, etc). If someone already has these devices, they will fit into a budget of .... a dozen or so zlotys. A lot also depends on whether one is preparing for one night without electricity or more....
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  • #11 21538282
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    I recommend Coach Frycz's recent videos. Watch and give feedback. Of course, sub, paw, comment.
  • #12 21538344
    Donpedro_z_Otwocka
    Level 17  
    I put it down to adapting to the situation. E.g. switching the household to a "daytime" lifestyle, i.e. "we get up early in the morning and go to bed after dark". An energy crisis will force changes in habits - no more sitting up until 2 a.m. on the internet.

    I stock up on light sources. I am more concerned about the availability of drinking water and looting and banditry. It will be useful to know the basics of psychology in order to somehow coexist among people irritated by the sudden lack of 'life facilitators' to which they have become accustomed.

    People always focus on technical preparation and overlook what is most important - psychological preparation for any crisis. And here the two most important issues are dealing with nervous and panicked people and the magic word 'routine', i.e. organising the household's activities during the day, because in crises it is best to keep your hands busy with something, so that the day passes with work and not with wondering 'What will it be? Does a blackout mean there will be a war?".
    You will need to be able to reassure householders (especially for the sake of the children - because when children see that adults are afraid, they themselves are twice as afraid) but also to skilfully silence those householders who will sow confusion in fear and spread their own nervousness to the others (and this is the hardest part of the job to do - because such people are difficult and disruptive to the balance of communities).
  • #13 21538448
    ppwielki
    Level 25  
    jarewa wrote:
    ppwielki wrote:
    I have PV off grid and in addition lighting on 24V (18 5W/12V bulbs).
    ps. hot water will not be missing either.
    .
    Cool, but you didn't take into account that a power outage can occur longer and hit very heavy production days. What very often happens storms spoil the weather precipitation cloudy.
    I had such four days without power from the grid and there was no problem. I have had supply outages very often and there are even today. You just have to adapt as the colleague above wrote and it doesn't hurt me. For various reasons, a more annoying situation due to lack of electricity will occur in the city.
  • #14 21538509
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    Well, I'll show off my solution, I was building a new house and in 2007 I was doing the electrics in it, then I came up with an idea of how to protect myself in case of 'W' in case of lack of energy, and in my case it is quite critical, because, for example, I have a basement without windows, which means it is dark, one, two, the hydrophore and lack of water, three, the sewage treatment plant needs air, which means a compressor, four, heating, which means a gas cooker, five, the fridge and other small things.
    And since I have a house high in the mountains where it blows, this energy was quite often absent.
    I made one circuit for the whole house, of course divided by fuses on each floor, I assumed that in each room there would be one lamp on this circuit and one socket, described inside, plus of course a socket for the fridge and the cabinet with routers and other crap.
    I put a used apc 2200VA UPS in the basement and bought 8 38Ah batteries connected in series and parallel at 48V.
    This set served me well for a long time, but then the power company modernised the network, which caused day after day 8-10h shutdowns for 2 weeks, which unfortunately killed my batteries and now I have been without one for a few years. Unfortunately so far no money but maybe Spain will convince my wife that it is worth investing again :) .
    The advantage of another dedicated circuit is that it is additionally filtered (UPS) which protects sensitive receivers.
  • #15 21538619
    VaM VampirE
    Level 22  
    On the UPS, you need to check from time to time whether any of the batteries in series are starting to ride out the voltage.
    There are also ready-made balancers.
    14 cycles shouldn't kill anything.

    For UPS I recommend Europower with a life expectancy of 12 years, the EPL series as I recall.
    I install this in all UPS what I service, same for alarms and monitoring.
    A bit more expensive, but it's worth making stickers of when you replaced them as you can forget.

    As for batteries from power tools, there are cheap Chinese inverters with USB output.

    https://hackaday.com/2014/11/28/turn-cordless-tool-batteries-into-usb-chargers/
  • #16 21538627
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    VaM VampirE wrote:
    .
    As for batteries from power tools, there are cheap Chinese inverters with USB output.

    https://hackaday.com/2014/11/28/turn-cordless-tool-batteries-into-usb-chargers/
    .
    It was tested: "Car" USB charger (step down inverter) 4U36 .
    Plus an adapter for Makita (or whatever cells we have) and DIY emergency powerbank ready:
    Output adapter for Makita MT 18V battery with wires, top view. .
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  • #17 21538701
    acctr
    Level 38  
    There is no one specific way to cope in a moment of crisis, because you don't know what will be on hand then.
    At the moment, one can only assume that it will be something based on fv panels, powerbanks and LEDs. But bear in mind that this is electronics that may require a set of tools to get up and running, which may simply be in short supply, unless one regularly trains to solder SMDs with a heated nail in candlelight.
    In besieged Sarajevo, people coped by building generators from bicycles and DC motors. The exhibits in the museum there prove that people used literally everything at hand to build a robust structure, showing real creative ingenuity.
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  • #18 21538811
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    VaM VampirE wrote:
    14 cycles should not kill anything
    .
    If the battery has time to charge and of course if it's new, then these batteries have already had a couple of years. So your conclusions are worthless because the reality is different.
  • #19 21538945
    paszczakq
    Level 27  
    Large scooters and monocycles are good energy stores . In my case, 3.6 kWh . This can last ... for months .
  • #20 21539133
    VaM VampirE
    Level 22  
    There is no shortage of cool USB-C soldering irons, any converter from 12V to 230V, or the aforementioned Ecoflow will easily power Lutola (which, knowing life, most here have), and almost any normal station. There will now be a solution for most scenarios, in the form of a finished product.

    Janusz_kk wrote:
    VaM VampirE wrote:
    14 cycles should not kill anything
    .
    If the battery has time to recharge and of course if it's new, then these batteries were already a couple of years old. So your conclusions are worthless because the reality is different.


    I had no intention to attack in my statement.
    The facts are that "normally" AGMs will last quite a while, and the fact that they have died is not "normal reality", but the milking of old batteries on the brink of death. So maybe my knowledge is worth a button, but I (neither privately nor professionally) don't use such practices and I don't know anyone who does. So sorry, I didn't know.
  • #21 21539255
    Janusz_kk
    Level 39  
    VaM VampirE wrote:
    and the sulking of old batteries on the brink of death.
    .
    You don't know this without measuring the capacity, especially as the load changes during operation. They were used because of mains outages, but the overhaul of the mains could no longer withstand them, they were killed by what I later found out was a deep discharge, which occurred when the mains was missing for more than 8 hours.
  • #22 21539298
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    VaM VampirE wrote:
    There is no shortage of cool soldering irons on USB-C
    .
    That's right, I have a T12 on USB C, it will be tested on Elektroda, coming soon:
    A hand holding an electronic soldering iron with an OLED display, three buttons, and a USB-C connector. .
    Only it's hardly a first-choice product for times of power outages....
    Of more interesting related products I still have such a radio, also soon to be on the forum:
    Red and black emergency radio with a hand crank dynamo lying on a wooden surface. .
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #23 21539609
    cranky
    Level 27  
    I live in a block of flats. The lack of lighting is an unnoticeably minor problem for me.
  • #24 21539718
    LEDówki
    Level 43  
    This one? Lack of water is also an unnoticeable problem? Lack of lifts? Sometimes lack of ventilation and heating. It all depends on how electrified the block of flats is, which is, according to the mockers, a chicken coop system.
    I still remember the pilgrimages for water when the block of flats ran out, a few kilometres to a deep well or a bit closer to a drilled well with concrete coils. There was an Oligocene water intake, i.e. a deep well, but local half-wits notoriously vandalised it and now do whatever you want.... The city is a trap in which you will not survive long without electricity. It's easier in the countryside, but 20-30 year olds may already not be able to do without a fridge, without a kitchen with an electric oven, without a freezer. Many heating systems have been cleverly converted from gravity to forced-air. No electricity, no way to heat the house. Tiled cookers have to be dismantled by the EU and heated with a heat pump or electricity from solar panels (in winter, cloudy days, little light, sun low, because the day is short). You won't light a fire in the living room like in a hut or even a stinking Victorian fireplace. You can't light a fire with wungle, and brushwood from suburban forests is not enough for everyone. Such are the advantages of modernity.
    Radioisotope heat generators probably only existed in the USSR.
    Coats and quilts will go out of fashion because they are made from animals, so they are not kosher. Cotton rags are not very warm. It's hard to last a day in a room at 8 degrees celsius, let alone when it's freezing? Russians are adapted to this. Blocks freeze, in huts the biggest problem in winter is the water bowl freezing. A person doesn't have a tiled cooker there, but a kitchen cooker - a kitchen and heats the chacina with it, and has doors with gaps so that you can see the light from outside.
    We don't realise how dependent we are on electricity until it is no longer available throughout the city or the country.
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  • #25 21539790
    cranky
    Level 27  
    LEDówki wrote:
    Lack of water is also an unnoticeable problem?
    .
    Read with understanding.
    Just lighting is a minor issue. Inconvenience. Larger inconveniences are lack of lifts, lack of food in the long run. (Over 5 days).
    The tragedy is the lack of water and no toilets. No way to heat a meal, cook anything in the building (with no energy for more than 24 hours).
    The deep well pump is one for 4 blocks. There is about 7 litres of water in it (I checked).
    It would be a tragedy for the houses not to be able to run the CH pumps and controllers in winter.
    Most of the population nowadays lives in cities.
    They have backpacks with a torch and a radio for a few hours. Best case scenario for a civil war. A hungry city with a village.
  • #26 21540468
    elezibi
    Level 21  
    LEDówki wrote:
    We don't realise how dependent we are on electricity until it runs out for an entire city or country for an extended period of time.


    And there is a strong "trend" for everything to be "PRYND" without exception.

    And the question for some is why:


    .
  • #27 21540685
    sq3evp
    Level 37  
    elezibi wrote:
    .
    And there is a strong "trend" to make everything "PRYND" without exception.

    And the question for some is why:
    .

    If the price of kWh was very low nobody would be combining with other than electric. There would be no gau and that nasty coal and wood.
    The downside is that you can switch off - I read somewhere that the utilities are replacing meters to measure reactive power (lots of switching power supplies and therefore lots of capacitive reactive power) and having the ability to limit consumption and switch off remote consumers. Now the conspiracy theories are starting to have an explanation.
  • #28 21540690
    LEDówki
    Level 43  
    After all, electricity is created after conversion from heat and chemical energy - from coal and maybe once wood. It has to be more expensive because these processes are not 100% efficient. The better off have electricity from atomic decay (that's hard to do in a boiler or cooker at home), hydroelectricity and possibly wind or solar (Africa). You want clean electric heating, then tick off the electricians, miners, drivers and others who are involved in converting raw materials into electricity.
  • #29 21540862
    Strumien swiadomosci swia
    Level 43  
    LEDówki wrote:
    Must be more expensive
    .
    More expensive than what?
  • #30 21540867
    acctr
    Level 38  
    Strumien swiadomosc... wrote:
    LEDówki wrote:
    Must be more expensive
    .
    More expensive than what?
    .
    The stream has interrupted you? :D from other forms of energy
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
📢 Listen (AI):

Topic summary

The discussion centers on practical, versatile, and energy-efficient emergency lighting solutions for power outages, focusing on a 12V LED strip system with dimmable brightness powered by various sources including standard power supplies, powerbanks (with and without Quick Charge), batteries, and photovoltaic (PV) installations. LED strips offer everyday usability beyond emergencies, with brightness control enabling energy consumption management. Alternative lighting options include camping lights such as Sofirn LT1S (500 lumens) and Fenix CL25R (300 lumens), which also serve as powerbanks using 21700 or 18650 rechargeable cells. Battery management and maintenance, including the use of UPS systems with AGM or lead-acid batteries, are critical for reliability; Europower EPL series UPS units and DIY adapters for power tool batteries (e.g., Makita BL1830) are recommended. Larger setups involve off-grid PV systems with 24V lighting or UPS with multiple 42Ah batteries for extended runtime. Portable power solutions like Ecoflow River 2 Pro combined with Honda EU10i generators provide long-lasting backup and fast recharging. The discussion also highlights the importance of adapting lifestyle habits during outages, psychological preparedness, and the limitations of relying solely on electronic solutions due to potential long-term outages and supply constraints. Additional tools such as USB-C soldering irons, step-down inverters, and radios complement the emergency setup. Urban challenges include water supply, heating, and ventilation dependency on electricity, emphasizing the need for comprehensive crisis planning beyond lighting.
Summary generated by the language model.
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