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Band sawmill, horizontal. 4kW belt drive.

marcingeneral  90 222877 Cool? (+86)
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TL;DR

  • A horizontal band sawmill track with a 4 kW belt drive was built with a father during winter.
  • The cutting section was designed from Internet photos, and the motors were connected using instructions found on Electrode.
  • The cutting part is finished except for paint, and spring is still needed to lay the track foundations.
  • The builder says he is not an electrician, so the wiring relies on online guidance.
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Hello.
I would like to present the horizontal track that I built with my father during the winter.



The design of the cutting part is now complete (only paint remains).
Now we are waiting for spring to lay the foundations for the track.

The construction was based on photos on the Internet.
I am not an electrician, so I connected the motors on the basis of the instructions obtained on the electrode.

I hope all builders will be interested in the topic.

About Author
marcingeneral wrote 37 posts with rating 126 . Live in city Nowa Wieś Kłodzka; Wrocław. Been with us since 2010 year.

Comments

mischa 05 Mar 2010 22:27

Nice, nice :) Just for real, do some covers. In poverty, at least one ... This tape can slip off :( I have "converted" such an original Husqvarna sawmill and made to order. 1. Buy yourself a scale and... [Read more]

peloks 05 Mar 2010 22:42

And I would need an inverter to regulate the travel speed. [Read more]

mischa 05 Mar 2010 22:49

Such a sawmill has no "travel" speed, because it is pushed by hand, buddy :) [Read more]

saly 05 Mar 2010 22:58

There are also those who have poses, you sit on the saddle and watch the process. But they have larger professors. Make a cover of the hacksaw blade sometimes falls off. [Read more]

kkgawron 06 Mar 2010 00:08

How is saw tension resolved? Where can I buy drive wheels? Did you count how much did the materials cost you? A very nice device. [Read more]

marcingeneral 06 Mar 2010 12:05

Hello. 1. The saw tension is hydraulic. I bought the matchstick on the Allegro along with the wheels. 2. Drive wheels are made by a few people in Poland. I bought mine on the Allegro. There is a Pan... [Read more]

donek901 06 Mar 2010 14:31

The covers should be made of sheet metal. The cutting tape may come off or break, the glass mat and resin cover may not be able to withstand it. Pretty good design ;) [Read more]

marcingeneral 10 Mar 2010 17:58

However, I will take the risk and make a glass mat reinforced epoxy resin cover. I have seen such a solution in a factory sawmill. If it does not hold up, I will make another one from a sheet of met... [Read more]

Miar 10 Mar 2010 20:26

And how were the guides made? Rods and ball bearings? Any chip brushes? [Read more]

marcingeneral 10 Mar 2010 21:15

The guides are nothing but closed profiles. The fixed part is made of 70x70x4mm profiles, with 80x80x4mm profiles placed on it. In order to eliminate excess play, a 1mm thick stainless steel tape is inserted... [Read more]

peloks 10 Mar 2010 23:58

Z axis leadscrew welds made almost professionally should be herringbone welded, ground vertically. It is not about the material, but about safety. I am interested in the Y axis what kind of rail. Gr... [Read more]

marcingeneral 12 Mar 2010 10:53

The running rail is a normal I200 section with a welded flat bar. The wheels are mounted on adjustable axles so that the belt can be perfectly adjusted to the level. So far it is snowing so there is no... [Read more]

pitsky 12 Mar 2010 14:29

Where did you get such wheels on the saw, how did you solve the engagement of the drive? [Read more]

peloks 12 Mar 2010 16:31

Chain, 2 gears, 1 bigger on the road wheel and the other on the worm gear, can be bought on scrap. Approx. 0.7 kW motor and an inverter for it. There are gears together with motors. [Read more]

marcingeneral 12 Mar 2010 22:42

As I wrote earlier, I bought the wheels on the Allegro from the Lord, who builds such sawmills to order. When it comes to switching on the tape drive, the most ordinary YD switch is used. On the other... [Read more]

pio102201 13 Mar 2010 10:55

What is the herringbone method ?? Questions to the author, how you have made the up and down feed (the switch and you have to measure yourself if it is improved in some way). The motor for the up and... [Read more]

marcingeneral 13 Mar 2010 18:28

1. The up-down feed is realized by means of two trapezoidal screws Tr 30x6mm. The screws are driven by a 0.75 kW motor. So far, they are used for rough distance setting. To accurately set the tape, you... [Read more]

jantar2005 11 Apr 2010 16:49

forgive marcingeneral , but I have a lot of concerns as to whether this sawmill will work as presented. I also built a sawmill, but without insulting you or boasting about it, I made a bit more effort... [Read more]

marcingeneral 11 Apr 2010 20:15

I haven't finished the track yet, so I can't deny or confirm your concerns. In a way, when building, I was modeled on my neighbor's sawmill, which is factory-made and not self-made. Ours... [Read more]

FAQ

TL;DR: DIY horizontal band sawmills cut about 3 × Ø35 cm spruce logs per hour [Elektroda, marcingeneral, post #8478052]; “manual pushing is very light” [Elektroda, jantar2005, post #7953581] Hydraulic tension and correct roller set-up stop blade wander. Why it matters: These tweaks decide cut accuracy, belt life and safety for hobbyists building sub-€2 000 rigs.

Quick Facts

• Typical band speed: 25–30 m s⁻¹ for 35 mm blades (Wood-Mizer Tech Sheet).
• Recommended band tension: 16–18 MPa axial stress [Elektroda, dickens1, post #9772433]
• Material & machining cost for a basic head: ~PLN 3 000 [Elektroda, marcingeneral, post #7790507]; full project ~PLN 7 000 [Elektroda, jantar2005, post #7970876]
• Common drive motor: 4 kW, 1 400 rpm, star/delta start [Elektroda, marcingeneral, post #9311995]
• One sharp band lasts 40-60 min continuous cut before resharpening [Elektroda, mamba99, post #8190615]

What size and power motor should I mount on a home-built band mill?

A 4 kW, 1 400 rpm three-phase motor is proven for 35 mm blades on logs up to Ø35 cm [Elektroda, marcingeneral, post #9311995] Use a 1:1 pulley when the blade speed stays below 30 m s⁻¹. If you plan hardwood or thicker cants, step up to 5.5 kW for torque reserve (Wood-Mizer spec).

How do I tension the band correctly without snapping it?

Fit a hydraulic tensioner with a built-in gauge; crank until the indicator shows 16-18 MPa [Elektroda, marcingeneral, post #7790507] Over-tensioning by 20 % cuts band life in half and risks sudden rupture (Wood-Mizer Service Bulletin).

Can I use car wheels or washing-machine pulleys instead?

Car rims with solid rubber tyres work if re-machined and balanced; washing-machine castings are only 300 mm Ø and fatigue-prone under 18 MPa tension [Elektroda, marcingeneral, post #7988544] Expect 10 % wider kerf deviation and shorter bearing life—acceptable for firewood, risky for lumber quality.

Is manual feed enough, or should I add an inverter drive?

Manual push lets you feel cutting resistance and adjust on the fly, reducing wave marks [Elektroda, jantar2005, post #7953581] Adding a 0.7 kW motor with VFD and chain reduction gives 0–25 m min⁻¹ adjustable travel [Elektroda, peloks, post #7819273]; include torque feedback or you’ll still outrun the blade in knots.

How high a cant can I cut with a 22 cm throat?

You’ll clear 22 cm in one pass. For 24 cm rafters, slice the log into 8 cm flitches, rotate, and resaw as shown in the four-cut strategy [Elektroda, jantar2005, post #7953581] Factory hobby mills (LT15) offer 28 cm throat for reference.

How often should I sharpen and set the teeth?

Change bands every 40–60 min of continuous sawing, then sharpen at 0.25 mm per face and reset every third grind [Elektroda, mamba99, post #8190615] A dedicated 230 V CBN sharpener pays off after 300 m³ sawn.

How long does a band last before it breaks?

With proper tension and rest cycles (>12 h between runs), users report 3 sharpenings and no breaks yet [Elektroda, marcingeneral, post #9118847] Industrial data show 200–300 m² lumber per band; sand contamination or overfeed halves that figure (USDA Forest Service).

Quick 3-step guide: aligning guide rollers

  1. Set blade tension to 16 MPa.
  2. Position each roller 3 mm below the drive wheel plane, edge 6 mm behind the gullet.
  3. Lock twin eccentrics; spin blade by hand and confirm zero lateral drift. Re-check after first cut.

What happens if I over-tighten the blade by mistake?

Exceeding 20 MPa stretches the band beyond its 0.2 % yield; micro-cracks appear within 5 cuts and sudden break can eject shards at 60 m s⁻¹ (Wood-Mizer Safety Note). Always release tension overnight to avoid metal fatigue.
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