Band sawmill, horizontal. 4kW belt drive.

Nice, nice Just for real, do some covers. In poverty, at least one ... This tape can slip off I have "converted" such an original Husqvarna sawmill and made to order.

1. Buy yourself a scale and stick it on the frame, which you would not always measure.
2. I don't see any cooling for now ... Rather mount them 5 l bubble, tap and a piece of hose will be approx
3. As for the electrics, it would be nice if there was grounding.
4. Do you also have a tape sharpener?

I'll try to upload photos of the "track" later. Such a hoop is with little elements to the constipation of wood

And I would need an inverter to regulate the travel speed.

Such a sawmill has no "travel" speed, because it is pushed by hand, buddy

There are also those who have poses, you sit on the saddle and watch the process. But they have larger professors.

Make a cover of the hacksaw blade sometimes falls off.

How is saw tension resolved?
Where can I buy drive wheels?
Did you count how much did the materials cost you?

A very nice device.

kkgawron wrote:

How is saw tension resolved?
Where can I buy drive wheels?
Did you count how much did the materials cost you?

Hello.

1. The saw tension is hydraulic. I bought the matchstick on the Allegro along with the wheels.
2. Drive wheels are made by a few people in Poland. I bought mine on the Allegro. There is a Pan who offers a lot of parts to assemble the sawmill yourself.
3. Materials and turning of sockets for trapezoidal nuts, as well as turning of driving axles and guide rollers cost about PLN 3,000.

I will add photos of the saw tension in a moment, but I will reduce their dimensions.

As for the cover and cooling:
Cooling is already done, but it was not mounted on the sawmill. I have a 20 liter canister with a tap. He wants to use a cooling hose from a lathe as the tip.

The cover is not there yet. But I'm already looking for a glass mat and resin, and I think the cover will be ready in a week.

Added after 25 [minutes]:

The belt tension is shown in the photo below.
By turning the crank of the tensioner, the piston extends which moves the saw blade pulley horizontally.
We used hydraulic tension in order to obtain the axial force in the cutting band as specified by the manufacturer.
Here's how to tension the saw:

If anyone wants any technical data, such as the dimensions of the machine, please write.

The covers should be made of sheet metal. The cutting tape may come off or break, the glass mat and resin cover may not be able to withstand it.

Pretty good design

However, I will take the risk and make a glass mat reinforced epoxy resin cover.
I have seen such a solution in a factory sawmill.
If it does not hold up, I will make another one from a sheet of metal.

And how were the guides made?
Rods and ball bearings?
Any chip brushes?

Miar wrote:

And how were the guides made?
Rods and ball bearings?
Any chip brushes?

The guides are nothing but closed profiles.
The fixed part is made of 70x70x4mm profiles, with 80x80x4mm profiles placed on it. In order to eliminate excess play, a 1mm thick stainless steel tape is inserted into the center.
So far, there are no brushes or sawdust covers. If the guides become excessively clogged, I will use rubber cleats.

I have shown everything in the photo below.

Z axis leadscrew welds made almost professionally should be herringbone welded, ground vertically.
It is not about the material, but about safety. I am interested in the Y axis what kind of rail.
Greetings.

peloks wrote:

I am interested in the Y axis and what kind of rails. An inverter because my hand will hurt after 4 hours.
Greetings.

The running rail is a normal I200 section with a welded flat bar.
The wheels are mounted on adjustable axles so that the belt can be perfectly adjusted to the level. So far it is snowing so there is no possibility of pouring foundations.
In what sense did you mean an inverter?
You probably mean installing an inverter for the mechanical saw feed. Or so?
At the moment there is a manual feed, but as soon as spring comes, we will start designing the drive.
Or maybe you have an idea for a drive?

Where did you get such wheels on the saw, how did you solve the engagement of the drive?

Chain, 2 gears, 1 bigger on the road wheel and the other on the worm gear, can be bought on scrap. Approx. 0.7 kW motor and an inverter for it.
There are gears together with motors.

pitsky wrote:

Where did you get such wheels on the saw, how did you solve the engagement of the drive?

As I wrote earlier, I bought the wheels on the Allegro from the Lord, who builds such sawmills to order.

When it comes to switching on the tape drive, the most ordinary YD switch is used.
On the other hand, if you want to switch on the drive of the sawmill along the track, my brain simply sends a signal to the legs to move the sawmill along the track .
But seriously, today there is no mechanical feed in the sawmill.

peloks wrote:

Z axis leadscrew welds made almost professionally should be herringbone, ground vertically.

What is the herringbone method ??
Questions to the author, how you have made the up and down feed (the switch and you have to measure yourself if it is improved in some way). The motor for the up and down feed is with or without a brake?

pio102201 wrote:

Questions to the author, how you have made the up and down feed (the switch and you have to measure yourself if it is improved in some way). The motor for the up and down feed is with or without a brake?

1. The up-down feed is realized by means of two trapezoidal screws Tr 30x6mm. The screws are driven by a 0.75 kW motor.
So far, they are used for rough distance setting. To accurately set the tape, you need to manually turn one of the wheels.
So far I am thinking about the mechanical movement of the sawmill along the track, and I am not going to install the electronic thickness gauge.
2. The motor for the up-down feed does not have a brake. The weight of the whole contraption causes the screw to stop immediately after being turned off.

forgive marcingeneral , but I have a lot of concerns as to whether this sawmill will work as presented.
I also built a sawmill, but without insulting you or boasting about it, I made a bit more effort and mine has already rubbed 50 cubic meters of spruce.
I am very worried about your sawmill. I'm sorry to be honest, but a lot of people might want to follow your example and that would be a big mistake.
Please tell us honestly whether it has already been tested and how it possibly worked.

I haven't finished the track yet, so I can't deny or confirm your concerns.

In a way, when building, I was modeled on my neighbor's sawmill, which is factory-made and not self-made. Ours is 80% like our neighbor and the remaining 20% are our ideas.

Added after 4 [minutes]:

jantar2005 wrote:

forgive marcingeneral , but I have a lot of concerns as to whether this sawmill will work as presented.
I also built a sawmill, but without insulting you or boasting about it, I made a bit more effort and mine has already rubbed 50 cubic meters of spruce.
I am very worried about your sawmill. I'm sorry to be honest, but a lot of people might want to follow your example and that would be a big mistake.
Please tell us honestly whether it has already been tested and how it possibly worked.

What are your fears dictated by? I will be very happy if you tell me what mistakes I made according to you.

I started this thread because I believe that this way I can avoid some mistakes.
As you also noticed, the topic is in the unfinished constructions section. When everything is 100% done, please refer to the topic Constructions.

My concern is the stiffness of the head.
It will probably be difficult for you to make the correct belt adjustment. And when you adjust it under load, there will probably be a misalignment. This can cause the tape to come off or even break.
In addition, your solution will not allow you to cut a beam higher than approx. 20 cm. While the most common dimension of the grader rafters is 24cm.
I made a head that allows you to cut even 30 cm.
My head is made of 4mm sheet metal on 50 / 40mm reinforcement profiles and the side sheets are 3mm. It is a box structure (15 cm deep), thanks to which I obtained the greatest possible stiffness, and I would prefer it to be stiffer.
I made a similar mistake using the steel / steel guide + lubrication.
Unfortunately, the grease scrupulously catches the sawdust from the air and after two days the guide profile is completely cleaned (worn out) of grease.
Every two days I have to remove the old grease mixed with sawdust and apply fresh grease.
It is not too time-consuming, but it is better to get rid of this problem using, for example, plastic / Teflon plates that run dry.
The same applies to the trapezoidal screw. It must be well lubricated and then tightly sealed! covered, for example, with such a pipe:
And this is what my head looks like:
Note that I do not have any beam between the axes of the main wheels, so I can cut, for example, 30 cm high graders.
Basically, I stuffed all the trash in the head box, so I have no fun with the V-belt guard. On the other hand, the belt tensioner piston rod is as close as possible to the belt plane, which reduces the leverage and is beneficial from the point of view of the stiffness of the structure.
Of course, I will modify the next one a bit, and above all by a few more cm. I will enlarge my throat, but overall my sawmill did a great job.


This is what he did in his first garage test:

And so it worked in the middle of winter at -15 ° C

You are right with the cutting height. For me, there is 22cm clearance above the tape. However, I think that I can edge the round timber and cut the rafters, e.g. in thickness.

I know, I know, and what if the tree's cross-section is greater than twice the value of the light between the beam and the strip? Chmmm ... It remains to remake the sawmill to increase the ground clearance or:

Suppose I have a 70cm tree and I need 8x24cm rafters. As you already know, even if I cut a log into 8 cm slices, to get the size of 24 cm I will make a lot of waste or if you prefer material for other things such as patches.

Honestly, I am not worried in advance because I think that I will not get such large logs for my needs and I am not going to make material for roof trusses. The sawmill is to be used for rubbing small-size round logs into boards and logs. It will not be used for commercial purposes only for personal use.

In a way, your attention is most accurate and the workmanship of your machine is excellent. If there is a need for some arrangements, I will contact you.

And now I have a question, could you please post some detailed photos of the track.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

jantar2005 if you can, present us also wood clamps on the track. Thank you for your interest in the topic. It's a pity that I didn't see your machine when I started building. I would definitely be staring at something.

Well we learn from mistakes.

Hello marcingeneral .
I'm glad you're not offended.
My sawmill is not entirely perfect. I will convert the crank into an electric drive. After cutting the log, you need to raise the head by the entire diameter of the new log, often 70cm, which in practice gives 280 turns of the handle (my trapezoidal screw has a 4mm pitch), which is quite a challenge, even though it is not difficult.
However, I do not plan to add an inverter drive for track travel because manual pushing is very light and additionally allows you to feel the resistance of the material (logs). A friend has two band saws. One with an inverter drive and the other pushed. If there are wavy lumber, it is from this electrically powered one. Manually, when you feel more resistance, you slow down the pushing. The automatic machine cannot do it and the belt goes up or down.
Cutting a thick log is not a problem.
In the attached drawing I have scribbled an example of how to cut a ?70cm log.
After making cuts 1, 2, 3 and 4, you turn the log by 90 ° and further cut it on the board. You can also cut it to a thickness of 8 cm and then cut out a size of 24 cm.
Then you turn the log again and further cut the boards or patches. Then one more turn and you get the intended square or rectangular section.
At the end, you are left with a beam, e.g. 40 / 50cm, and you cut whatever you want from it, and you also have use from previously cut boards.
I don't know what detail of the track you are interested in.
In the photo with the head, you can clearly see how I solved them and I recommend this track solution with a clear conscience. Well, maybe it is still worth cutting the bed beam to make it easier to roll the log onto the bed.
On the other hand, the fastening of the log is completely primitive and prototype. It did a good job, but they still need to be tweaked and maybe even changed.
Maybe tomorrow I will show how I made this makeshift, but I would like to point out that this is not the final patent.

jantar2005 wrote:

.
I don't know what detail of the track you are interested in.

What profile did you see on the track rail as the guide? Is it a square?

Damn it
I think in the photo and in the first film you can see that I used a zastos24mm tube and wheels matched to it as a guide. On the opposite side there is a flat cast iron wheel.
The track is made of closed profiles 120x60x3mm, crossbars 100x60x3 and the beam of the bed 100x50x3 and everything was just laid on the snow albeit somewhat even.
Crossbars in the track every 1.5 m

Sorry I haven't posted the promised photo of the log holder yet, but trust me, I'm so busy this week that I really don't have a head for it yet. Maybe next week.

very nice designs I have a question: are those big wheels that drive the saw blade covered with some rubber or something? I wonder how it is possible that the friction between steel and steel gives so much adhesion that the belt does not fall off

jantar2005 wrote:

Manually, when you feel more resistance, you slow down the pushing. The automatic machine cannot do it and the belt goes up or down.

well, I can't, you can detect resistance after a lot of power is consumed by the feed motor

Of course, the wheels are stretched on one 1500x17 V-belt, which can be seen in the photos, if you look at them carefully.
On the other hand, I will say that my dear colleague is definitely right, but in typical inverter drives there is no such automation, at least not in these frames up to PLN 50,000.

Hello
for those interested in the subject, in the "hamech" machinery plant, you could once buy almost all parts for their band sawmill, perhaps someone will want to use ready-made elements for their construction
greetings

Hello! I have a few questions about your sawmill!

1. Could you please post a technical drawing of your sawmill.
2. And how much exactly did the parts cost.
3.And who did you buy Saw stretcher and wheels from, etc.

Thanks in advance!

Probably questions owen90 are addressed to the founder of the thread, but I will answer without question:
re.1 I do not have technical drawings, because I was doing "from the head" and one small, almost freehand sketch.
ad.2 The cost of everything with steel cutting discs and welding is about PLN 7,000.
ad.3 I bought the necessary parts, i.e. wheels, hydraulic tensioner and guide rollers on Allegro: http://allegro.pl/show_user_auctions.php?uid=4246949
trapezoidal screw: http://www.abcnc.pl/sruby-trapezowe