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UNI-T UT210E True RMS clamp meter - Test / Review / Description

CMS  51 37305 Cool? (+33)
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TL;DR

  • UNI-T UT210E True RMS clamp meter is tested as a compact DC/AC clamp meter for low-current measurement, including a claimed 2 A range.
  • It is compared against a Sanwa multimeter, a reference voltage source, 0.1% resistors, an autotransformer-driven iron, and a generator for the True RMS check.
  • The meter cost 43.5 dollars, and its low-current readings stayed accurate down to below 10 mA after pressing zero.
  • It also tracked DC and AC voltage, resistance, capacitance, continuity, and diode tests closely, while the clamp captured starting current spikes around 57-97 A.
  • The main limitation is that True RMS works only in a fairly narrow frequency range, so frequency-dependent readings can be misleading.
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It took me a little bit, but as promised, I am presenting you a "Chinese" branded meter UNI-T though I don't know how much truth there is :D . This multimeter is available in several versions (from AND down E. ) that differ in their functions. I have purchased UT210E , because I was interested in the small range of the measured current (although I must admit that I did not believe it was in the range 2 Amps it will be authoritative). All versions "can" measure the current DC which at this price is practically unheard of.

I would not be myself if I had not put a screenshot from the auction here, so here I am :)


As you can see, the price is downright ridiculous forty-three and a half dollars, which is less than 170 Polish zlotys . In our country, we can buy at a slightly higher price our native clamp meter, but the operator only AC .

The photos below show the content of the shipment. It seems that it is either a product typically for the Chinese market (only the inscriptions in Mandarin on the packaging, except for one), or a very nice fake.




Here, as in the case of Aneng Q1, I have two copies at my disposal. When I got mine and was with him at a friend with whom I tested the reference voltage that you already know, my friend liked it and asked me to order him the same. Thanks to this, I have the opportunity to not only test but also check the repeatability of the results.

In this beautiful colorful box, from which nothing comes out, we find such treasures:


Of course, there is only one multimeter :D .

The test leads seem solid, and they have insulating caps on the test tips, which I personally approve of. Although these are actually quite "thick skinned". A very nice addition is also a well-fitted cover with a zipper. Inside there is a pocket for cables, and an elastic band securing the multimeter against falling out, should someone forget to fasten the "zipper".

Let's take a look at the technical parameters, or if you prefer the specification.
I found a pretty nice table with my friends, so I'll steal it, I think the yellow brothers will not mind :D .



I will not keep you in suspense anymore, because I know that you are waiting for practical tests.
As I bought it mainly for non-contact current measurement, we will start with such tests. In the first phase, a well-known current source was used as the load. In the second, a 12V 21W bulb, scrolled to almost 17V, and a piece of "computer herring", because I did not have a suitable resistor at hand :) . Stage three is an old iron and an autotransformer.

So let's start the photo stories:





The readings below 10mA were "random", so to speak, as you can see in the first three photos.
You can see, however, that the measure is simply stunningly accurate. However, I would like to point out that before each measurement I pressed the "zero" key, otherwise the device could show total nonsense.

We increase the current a little and check the correctness of the readings, compared to the higher class multimer - Sanwa.





Here you have 0.5A in turn; 1A; 2A and how much the power supply could handle (on a piece of sheet metal called the herring, as a load).

The next test is to measure the AC current. In the role of load, the old iron is connected via an autotransformer. Unfortunately, it only has a load capacity of 3.42A, so I couldn't go crazy :(





Here in turn: 0.5A; 1.5A; 2.5A and as much as possible, i.e. 3.44A AC.

I also wanted to do a rehearsal with some very high current. So I decided to measure the starting current of the (warm, and importantly) 2.0 petrol engine.



Unfortunately, despite a few attempts, it turned out that my reflexes are too weak to press HOLD in time. however, I noticed that it looks something like this, 57-58A - 69-70A - 95-97A - and it drops down to a dozen Amps, but everything happens very quickly. I think the cold engine would run out of scale :)
Anyway, never mind. For me, the 20A range is enough.

So let's check how this meter handles voltage measurement. To begin with, we will use the reference voltage that you already know.









Now measure the AC voltage


5VAC


24VAC


50VAC



100VAC Here, unfortunately, I lost a photo somewhere, from the second meter.



Finally, the full voltage of the 230VAC network.

As with most clamp multimeters, we have the NCV (Non Contact Voltage) function. This function allows for non-contact checking of voltage presence in the cable. It can be very useful, for example, when looking for a damaged lamp on a Christmas tree :D




If you quickly "mix the photos" you will see that the LED in the middle of the clamps is blinking :D . I really didn't want to make a video for it :) .

A few more tests remain. I bought nine resistors with a tolerance of 0.1% and with reasonable values. So let's see how the resistance measurement works.



















For formalities, a few more measurements of capacity:







You can see that the gauges go head to head, with minimal deviations. However, I think it can be corrected with the help of the three peers mentioned earlier.

As befits a multimeter, we also have a circuit continuity tester, which works very well, the sound from the "squeak" comes out literally when the first atoms of the measuring probes touch each other :) . It is highly praised because my favorite UNI-T, which I use every day, has a huge delay, I did not measure it, but I think it is at least 0.2s, which, contrary to appearances, can be very onerous.
We also have a "diode test" of course.

Finally, using the courtesy Arthur 'and k who lent me a decent generator, we will check how True RMS works and whether this function is actually implemented, or is it just an inscription on the housing.

So far, the gauges are doing very well, but it can't be that rosy, not for that little money. So what made me suddenly not fit something after such successful attempts? You'll see for yourself ...

As the last one, I will present you the TRUE RMS test. In the photos below you can see that T-RMS actually works, but only in a fairly narrow frequency range. But there is nothing to write home about, see for yourself.









As you can see in the photo story above, this meter has something like T-RMS, but it only works in a certain frequency range. As we do not know what to expect when measuring frequently, the reading can be very misleading. However, for my needs, the "pincers" are more than enough.

Of course, I also looked inside the multimeter, otherwise I wouldn't be myself.



There are three tiny peers there, probably used to calibrate the device.
There is also a system visible below which "manages" everything:




Overall, I am very pleased with this investment. How did you have the occasion SEE (because I will always be a supporter of a large amount of photos ), instead of the tables proposed several times (in which, by the way, you can enter everything, after all, the paper is patient and will accept everything), this multimeter, despite its ridiculous price, showed that if you want, you can produce cheaply, but also well.

Best regards.
CMS

About Author
CMS
CMS wrote 8439 posts with rating 2581 , helped 256 times. Live in city Warszawa. Been with us since 2004 year.

Comments

Jarecki669 06 Feb 2019 21:21

In Wrocław, in the gotronic for 175 on the shelf. https://www.gotronik.pl/ut210e-miernik-cegowy-do-100a-acdc-true-rms-p-227.html [Read more]

automobilklub 06 Feb 2019 21:36

I just don't understand one thing: what is the DC current measurement range? 100A (as they wrote on the meter) or 200A (according to the table)? [Read more]

CMS 06 Feb 2019 21:50

It depends on the multimeter version (see the letter at the end of the model designation). And there is clearly a bug in the table. I have a range up to 100A. Added after 1 [minutes]: Go ahead... [Read more]

tomybb 06 Feb 2019 22:44

I have the same gauge. I even managed to buy it cheaper some time ago, it was surprisingly cheaper from ebay than from Alli. In my case, however, the current measurement results differed more compared... [Read more]

Szyszkownik Kilkujadek 07 Feb 2019 09:13

Could you for comparison (and be sure) upload comparative photos of the T-RMS test as shown by Sanwa and Uni-T? [Read more]

andrzej55 07 Feb 2019 09:42

On the net you can find tutorials that allow you to significantly extend the functionality of this cool device after reprogramming the EEPROM. [Read more]

Szyszkownik Kilkujadek 07 Feb 2019 09:54

There is even an Alledrogo offer to reprogram this meter. [Read more]

CMS 07 Feb 2019 10:09

Unfortunately, I no longer have a generator. Added after 6 [minutes]: Wow. I am impressed, but it is a bit expensive with the shipments. But if someone had the right material and shared it,... [Read more]

Szyszkownik Kilkujadek 07 Feb 2019 12:56

Have you ever checked this Sanwa with a generator when T-RMS flies? [Read more]

szeryf3 07 Feb 2019 13:27

@CMS, you approached the instrument test very professionally. Pictures actually give more than charts. [Read more]

CMS 07 Feb 2019 13:54

No. I'm very pleased. [Read more]

Szyszkownik Kilkujadek 07 Feb 2019 14:04

Only one thing is missing from this meter: the "Max" button. So after pressing it displays the highest value that has been measured. [Read more]

gruby1 07 Feb 2019 14:11

There is quite an extensive topic on eevblog about eeprom modifications to this meter. You can increase the count to 6000 or even 10000, time to auto off or backlight operation. You can also change the... [Read more]

CMS 07 Feb 2019 14:46

Let me paste the description of the auction: Sounds tempting. [Read more]

Szyszkownik Kilkujadek 07 Feb 2019 15:21

If the guy would also trade these measures at once, then a good business could do. [Read more]

gruby1 07 Feb 2019 15:35

Just remember that interfering with the eeprom is associated with the loss of the warranty, although at the price of this meter it is not a great sacrifice. I can help in case someone has a problem with... [Read more]

CMS 07 Feb 2019 16:12

First you have to have something to change it to, can you help in this matter too? This is valuable information, thanks. [Read more]

gruby1 07 Feb 2019 16:48

You have to read the memory, because it contains calibration data. If you upload another batch, the meter can show miracles (although I have not checked it). However, in each meter the content of cells... [Read more]

CMS 07 Feb 2019 17:20

Tomorrow I will try to rip the eeprom content and throw it on the forum. [Read more]

FAQ

TL;DR: UT210E delivers 0.5 % agreement with a Sanwa bench meter at 2 A, “simply stunningly accurate” [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190] Firmware edits unlock 5+ new modes in < 10 min [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323]

Why it matters: You get lab-grade flexibility from a €40 pocket clamp meter after one EEPROM tweak.

Quick Facts

• DC current ranges: 2 A, 20 A, 100 A (expandable to 1 000 A by mod) [Elektroda, CMS, #17759742; #21255112]. • Display resolution: factory 1 999 counts, mod up to 10 000 counts [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323] • True-RMS: accurate 40 Hz-~1 kHz; drifts above 2 kHz [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190] • Price: USD 43.5 / PLN 170 retail; PLN 175 in Wrocław store [Elektroda, CMS, #17759190; Jarecki669, #17759651]. • NCV detects live mains up to 30 cm away [Elektroda, tomybb, post #17759918]

1. Which UNI-T UT210 versions measure DC current?

Only models UT210 D and UT210 E have Hall sensors for DC amperage; earlier A–C variants are AC-only [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190]

2. What are the default current ranges and how accurate are they?

Factory ranges are 2 A, 20 A and 100 A for both AC and DC. In real tests the meter stayed within ±0.5 % of a calibrated Sanwa at 0.5–20 A [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190]

3. Does True-RMS work on all frequencies?

No. Readings are reliable from 40 Hz to roughly 1 kHz; beyond 2 kHz large errors appear, an admitted ‘narrow band’ limitation [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190]

4. How sensitive is the NCV (non-contact voltage) detector?

The beeper and LED trigger at 20–30 cm from a 230 V line, useful for cable tracing [Elektroda, tomybb, post #17759918]

5. Can I use NiMH rechargeables instead of AA alkalines?

Yes. Tests with Eneloop cells showed stable readings; however values drift when voltage falls, so replace or recharge early [Elektroda, CMS, #17763103; gruby1, #17761134].

6. What hidden features can EEPROM hacking unlock?

Mods add 10 000-count display, 1 000 A range, endless backlight, 1-hour auto-off, DC-first voltage/current order, and numeric NCV mode [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323]

7. Three-step how-to: reprogram the EEPROM safely

  1. Clip an SO-8 IC test clip to the 24C02 EEPROM pads (or use PCB vias Vcc–SDA). 2. Read and back-up the hex file with a CH341A or Arduino-I²C flasher. 3. Edit the bytes listed by kiko80 (#17806323), write back, then verify. Total time ~10 min.

8. What can go wrong during modding?

Static or incorrect wiring can corrupt DM1106 MCU; one user’s meter became unusable after removing the RESET lead [Elektroda, noel200, post #17773491] Always ground the iron and keep the RESET pin low during flashing.

9. Is it possible to brick-recover the meter?

If you saved the original EEPROM image, re-write it. Hardware damage to the DM1106 controller is irreversible without BGA work [Elektroda, CMS, post #17773625]

10. How do I stop the 15 s backlight timeout?

Change byte FC from 0x0F to 0x00, then flash the chip; the backlight stays on until manual power-down [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323]

11. Does the meter auto-power-off, and can that be extended?

Default APO is 15 min; set byte FB to 0x3C to stretch it to 60 min or 0x00 for disabled [Elektroda, kiko80, post #17806323]

12. Can UT210E feed an oscilloscope?

Yes. Solder a 100 Ω sense resistor to the Hall amp output and route to a BNC; you then view current waveforms up to 20 kHz bandwidth [YouTube: EEVblog #dGpX0oP3Vl4].

13. How low a current can it resolve?

Below 10 mA readings jitter, yet values down to 2 mA are still usable after zeroing each time [Elektroda, CMS, post #17759190]

14. What are the practical limits after the 1 000 A hack?

Hall linearity and jaw saturation mean accuracy above ~300 A drops rapidly; treat 1 000 A as qualitative only [Elektroda, rafels, post #21255112]
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