Arlec PB88UHA Grid Connect Smart 4 Outlet Powerboard with USB Charger
Product Information
This is a four socket powerboard with in-built USB chargers (USB-A and USB-C, 5v 3.4 amp combined). The four power sockets can be controlled on or off via WiFi, and there is a master On/Off button which - by default using Tuya - turns off all four ports. The model is PB88UHA, and used to come with an ESP8285-based contoller but is now provided with a BK7231T controller.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-grid-connec...4-outlet-powerboard-with-usb-charger_p0074829
The controller chip is a Tuya WB2S which is just a BK7231T. The form factor for this board is that it is inserted upside down into the main board as shown in the image above, with only the pins showing. For reflashing with OpenBeken, I used solder wick to remove all the solder, then removed the three screws as indicated with the arrows, and removed the WB2S board. Reflashing is as for any WB2S, using the VCC, GND, TXD, RXD and CEN pins. CEN must be wired to the RST pin of your programmer to put the board into programming mode.
Pins are configured as follows in the JSON format within the Web Application:
The above translates to:
-Pin 6: Relay 3
-Pin 7: Relay 2
-Pin 8: Relay 1
-Pin 24: Relay 4
-Pin 10: Button
-Pin11: WiFiLED_n
For the MQTT configuration in Home Assistant, I didn't do anything with the button as I have no need for controlling that or doing anything with it really.
This is a four socket powerboard with in-built USB chargers (USB-A and USB-C, 5v 3.4 amp combined). The four power sockets can be controlled on or off via WiFi, and there is a master On/Off button which - by default using Tuya - turns off all four ports. The model is PB88UHA, and used to come with an ESP8285-based contoller but is now provided with a BK7231T controller.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-grid-connec...4-outlet-powerboard-with-usb-charger_p0074829
The controller chip is a Tuya WB2S which is just a BK7231T. The form factor for this board is that it is inserted upside down into the main board as shown in the image above, with only the pins showing. For reflashing with OpenBeken, I used solder wick to remove all the solder, then removed the three screws as indicated with the arrows, and removed the WB2S board. Reflashing is as for any WB2S, using the VCC, GND, TXD, RXD and CEN pins. CEN must be wired to the RST pin of your programmer to put the board into programming mode.
Pins are configured as follows in the JSON format within the Web Application:
Code: JSON
The above translates to:
-Pin 6: Relay 3
-Pin 7: Relay 2
-Pin 8: Relay 1
-Pin 24: Relay 4
-Pin 10: Button
-Pin11: WiFiLED_n
For the MQTT configuration in Home Assistant, I didn't do anything with the button as I have no need for controlling that or doing anything with it really.
Comments
Thank you, it's worth to add that even tough you didn't configure the button, there is already a ready script for such device in our examples: https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/tree/main/docs Here: https://github.com/openshwprojects/OpenBK7231T_App/blob/main/docs/autoexecExamples.md ... [Read more]
Is there any working profile in the CloudCutter for OTA update? Thank you [Read more]
I gave up on Cloudcutter checks for all my devices as I started buying these all after Tuya had patched out these vulnerabilities. I just went straight for the soldering iron. [Read more]
Please watch our flashing guides to learn how to change firmware by using UART programmer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6d42IMGhHw&list=PLzbXEc2ebpH0CZDbczAXT94BuSGrd_GoM&ab_channel=Elektrodacom our... [Read more]
Unfortunately not everything can be done without me destroying it in the process =) [Read more]
turned out that my board has an ESP chip on it still (older kind) and was able to flash it to Tasmota Thank you! [Read more]
Don't forget that with OpenBeken, you can control Tasmota and OBK devices with the same app, for example with ioBroker and Tasmota Control app from Google Play (Tasmota Remota, etc) [Read more]
I tried today and didn't have much luck with cloudcutter, but did notice that my unit had module version 1.0 which I thought was strange. [Read more]
Mine was ESP based so flashed with OTA Tasmota no problem [Read more]
As in Tuya-Convert is what you used rather than cloudcutter? [Read more]
Tuya-convert still works for older devices, but it's up to your luck to decide. [Read more]
Just check your device MAC address. If it's ESP chip - try tuya convert [Read more]
Hadn't even thought of that. If I grab the MAC am I then just using a lookup tool or is there a particular reference I am checking against? [Read more]
https://macaddress.io/ [Read more]