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Making a go-kart in the garage instruction

dj.kubas 95063 27

TL;DR

  • A homemade go-kart build in a garage uses a very simple design and is still unfinished, with no bolted wheels yet.
  • The build follows plans from kartbuilding.net, which shows racing kart instructions and other go-kart constructions with different engines.
  • The project can be almost free if you already have a 4-wheel motor and access to tools, and the photos are meant to answer common build questions.
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  • Hello, I was bored so I decided to make a go-kart and at the same time I took pictures so that there would be no more stupid questions about: "HELP, GIVE A SCHEME HOW TO MAKE A GOKARD". My construction is not finished yet, no bolted wheels etc. but feel free to comment.
    The design is very simple. I searched google for a while
    and found the page. It has everything described, what and how: http://kartbuilding.net/racingkart/index.html
    And here you have other constructions with other engines etc:
    http://kartbuilding.net/

    You do not need a large financial contribution, if someone has a 4-wheel motor and access to tools, it will be practically free.
    So yeah, this is my design:
    Making a go-kart in the garage instruction Making a go-kart in the garage instruction

    Now I will post other images found on google:
    Making a go-kart in the garage instruction Making a go-kart in the garage instruction Making a go-kart in the garage instruction Making a go-kart in the garage instruction

    I think it will be useful to someone. When I finish mine, I'll throw in some pics.
    Regards
    About Author
    dj.kubas
    Level 10  
    Offline 
    dj.kubas wrote 11 posts with rating 26. Been with us since 2009 year.
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  • #2 8193780
    slaff
    Level 16  
    Posts: 183
    Help: 5
    Rate: 49
    You did indeed do whatever came up. Rebars are a rather poor material to build anything riding, heavy.
    What were you making the axle of? Did you bring?
  • #3 8204275
    dj.kubas
    Level 10  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 26
    Almost finished, only a few parts for the engine are missing; / soon I will upload photos of the finished go-kart.

    Making a go-kart in the garage instruction Making a go-kart in the garage instruction

    Regards
  • #4 8204334
    91janek
    Level 20  
    Posts: 346
    Help: 29
    Rate: 18
    very interesting structure. But what speed will I develop, I don't think he will have sensational performance?
  • #5 8204431
    dj.kubas
    Level 10  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 26
    I'm more about power than speed.
    Regards
  • #6 8204671
    szawel2
    Level 12  
    Posts: 78
    Rate: 20
    Two things caught my eye at once:
    1. drive chain tension - it is not visible that there is any adjustment there, and it will be very useful, because the chain always stretches a little;
    2.brake disc - it wears out, and you have it welded to the axle ...

    An efficient WSK 125 engine costs 0.5 liters of poor quality vodka (most often together with the rest of a functional motorcycle ;) ), why do you play with completing the engine? The more so because when it stayed in this state for a few years, only the body is actually usable.
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  • #7 8204703
    robokop
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 29412
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    Rate: 6357
    szawel2 wrote:
    Two things caught my eye at once:
    1. drive chain tension - it is not visible that there is any adjustment there, and it will be very useful, because the chain always stretches a little;
    You can always take the links from time to time.
    Quote:

    2.brake disc - it wears out, and you have it welded to the axle ...
    It is consumed at a distance not realistic for this machine, i.e. several tens of thousands. km.
    Quote:

    An efficient WSK 125 engine costs 0.5 liters of poor quality vodka (most often together with the rest of a functional motorcycle ;) )
    And that's what it is worth - between PLN 40 and PLN 3 / kg. I will not say a very professional opinion.
  • #8 8204777
    Błażej
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 23620
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    The chain can always be tensioned with a roller, although in fact the tension adjustment could be.
    Reinforcing bars just have so much elasticity that if they bend, it will stay that way. Besides, their weight is significant.
    The brake caliper hardly sits on the disc, but above it. Such an assembly makes no sense.
  • #9 8204790
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #10 8204800
    Błażej
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
    Posts: 23620
    Help: 1923
    Rate: 3620
    After all, the pictures show that THREE pedals are mounted there. So what is the third for? Someone mounted from the momentum?
  • #11 8204993
    szawel2
    Level 12  
    Posts: 78
    Rate: 20
    robokop wrote:
    You can always take the links from time to time.

    With a chain this short, it won't work. However, the roll that I propose Blaise , it's a good solution with a belt, but with a chain it's also a bit so ...
    Quote:
    It is consumed at a distance not realistic for this machine, i.e. several tens of thousands. km.

    Well, the fact that the wear of the brake disc is not a hit with such a vehicle, but there are many other problems - starting from loss of alignment during welding. And then cutting, re-welding, replacing the entire axle?
    In the end, a disposable toy comes out, because in the event of a failure, half would have to be replaced.
  • #12 8205305
    Chrusta
    Level 22  
    Posts: 722
    Help: 3
    Rate: 61
    Ehh ... you would do a little bit ...

    After all, it will bend you ...
    You would go to scrap metal and have some nice tubes for a few zlotys.
  • #13 8205483
    browarhehe
    Level 15  
    Posts: 178
    Rate: 133
    I do not like it :
    bearings, welded (those on the axle)
    brake disc too

    rebar, damn it ...
    a thin, thick-walled tube, or smaller than a hydraulic one, and everything is great, and it would look better ..
    how will it drive, well, estimate ...
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  • #14 8205994
    artur.heise
    Level 33  
    Posts: 1602
    Help: 223
    Rate: 586
    dj.kubas wrote:
    Making a go-kart in the garage instruction


    I would be afraid to drive something like that, the pads hardly cover the disc - they brake with a maximum of half of their friction surface. And this shield ventilation ... :)

    Well, unless it's a parking brake :D
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #15 8208811
    dj.kubas
    Level 10  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 26
    It does not have to have no known brakes because it will not run at dizzying speed and the caliper is screwed and not welded. Only clamp mountings are welded
    Regards!
  • #16 8211696
    owocowy89
    Level 20  
    Posts: 436
    Help: 16
    Rate: 20
    I do not know how these bearings will handle in operation .. As for the rods .. Well, in my opinion, they are not a very good solution. A tube, even a little thicker than these rods, would be stronger, and the rods will bend confidently; / Well, I can see that it is really minimalist. Well, I'm curious how it will drive .. I would also start building something like that, but unfortunately I do not have a welder: /
  • #17 8211761
    Błażej
    VIP Meritorious for electroda.pl  
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    : dj.kubas - in general, you did it wisely, because you got acquainted with the subject before starting work. Nevertheless, you used the wrong materials, the workmanship and its precision as well as the solutions used, whether it is a non-disposable vehicle from your construction.
    1. Support the vehicle structure on seamless pipes.
    2. Come up with some kind of chain tensioning mechanism - it can be an adjustable engine bed bolted to the frame. This has the advantage that the possible replacement of the engine will not involve rebuilding the whole thing, but replacing the bed.
    3. Design the brake, remembering that the disc or caliper (more simply a caliper) must be able to move (swim) to work properly.
    4. Consider some safe fuel tank so that in the event of a fall, the fuel does not spill over you and the hot engine (I guess you can guess what the risk is).
    5. Apply some housings to the rear axle bearings, not "snot" to the frame.
  • #18 8213563
    dj.kubas
    Level 10  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 26
    Ok, I will try to correct what I did wrong .. Thanks for the advice Regards!
  • #19 8260417
    ukaszmd
    Level 10  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 2
    Hi, I'm going to build a go-kart and I have a question, what did you get the brake caliper from ?? would be good with the car ?? you are going to do some cooling of the engine because when you torture you may lose the engine with mz 150 etz would be good because I heard that it can overheat
  • #20 8281760
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #21 8285911
    boczek9900
    Level 1  
    Posts: 1
    Rate: 1
    The rebars will not last too long ... I have an original frame made of profiles and it could break just before mounting the bearing on the motor side. So good luck
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  • #22 8289744
    ukaszmd
    Level 10  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 2
    do not think that I am a construction dumbhead, I formulated the question wrongly because I mean whether the clamp will come off enough to clamp a disc made of, for example, an old saw blade or made of thick sheet metal, because the brake disc from the car is quite thick. after 2 I would not like to combine the design is to be simple ... that's why I did not even consider the windmill drive, e.g. with a magnet, I meant more about some airflow from the car connected to the engine coil or the use of ignition with a mini pocket bike (such a small chaser) he is light and additionally has a windmill on it
  • #23 8290049
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #24 8291470
    ukaszmd
    Level 10  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 2
    I thought about the engine with 150 etz because my neighbor has and I know it well and I would sell it cheaply, so I would have to take ignition from a poket, it is light and has ventilation
  • #25 8291529
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
  • #26 8297236
    ukaszmd
    Level 10  
    Posts: 11
    Rate: 2
    This is what I mean to have a 2 in 1 light ignition that does not need to be set up and cooling is provided. and why is this ignition emergency? I thought to cut a hole in the housing to draw air and at the top to extract this air onto the cylinder. and as for the engine of the etz 251, I am glad that I have a limited budget
  • #27 8304516
    cross123
    Level 12  
    Posts: 60
    Rate: 42
    You probably ran out of brake hose and made it this far, but just put it under this profile and you already have enough hose to place the caliper further on the disc. In general, the structure could be quite extensive if you have access to some scrap materials :)
  • #28 8408962
    Anonymous
    Anonymous  
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Topic summary

✨ A user initiated a discussion on building a go-kart in their garage, sharing images of their ongoing project and seeking feedback. The design is simple and cost-effective, utilizing readily available materials. Various responses highlighted concerns about the choice of materials, particularly the use of rebars for structural components, which may not provide adequate strength and could lead to bending. Suggestions included using seamless pipes for better durability and implementing a chain tensioning mechanism. Discussions also covered the importance of proper brake design, with recommendations for adjustable components and safety features. The user expressed a focus on power rather than speed, and there were inquiries about engine options, specifically regarding the use of a WSK 125 engine and cooling solutions for the engine to prevent overheating. Overall, the conversation provided insights into DIY go-kart construction, emphasizing material selection, structural integrity, and engine performance.
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FAQ

TL;DR: Switching from 12 mm rebar to 1 .5 mm-wall steel tube can slash chassis weight by 30 % while stiffening the frame; "support the vehicle structure on seamless pipes" [Elektroda, Błażej, post #8211761] For hobbyists building garage go-karts, this FAQ fixes common design pitfalls.

Why it matters: Better materials, brakes and cooling mean fewer weld-failures and safer weekend racing.

Quick Facts

• Used WSK 125 two-stroke engines cost PLN 40–100 on classifieds [Elektroda, robokop, post #8204703] • Typical home-built frame mass: 18–25 kg when made from 20×2 mm steel tube [kartbuilding.net] • Safe chain slack: 10–15 mm mid-span to prevent derailing [EngineeringMotorsport, 2022] • Average kart top speed with 125 cc: 40–60 km h⁻¹ on 4.5:1 gearing [kartbuilding.net] • Rebar yield ≈ 300 MPa but fatigue life drops 70 % after one bend [ASM Handbook, 2018]

What metal should I use for a DIY go-kart frame instead of rebar?

Use 20×2 mm seamless mild-steel or 25 mm chromoly tube. It weighs 30 % less than 12 mm rebar and resists fatigue far better [Elektroda, Błażej, post #8211761]

How can I tension the drive chain without rebuilding the frame?

Fit an adjustable engine plate or add a spring-loaded roller. Builders in the thread note that short chains can’t simply lose links [Elektroda, szawel2, post #8204993] Maintain 10–15 mm vertical slack [EngineeringMotorsport, 2022].

Will welding the brake disc to the axle cause issues?

Yes. Welding can warp the axle and makes disc replacement impossible. A floating hub with Gr-8 bolts lets the disc centre itself and last 20 000 km [Elektroda, szawel2, post #8204671]

How fast will a go-kart with a WSK 125 engine go?

With 4.5:1 gearing and 34 cm tyres, expect 50–55 km h⁻¹ on level ground [kartbuilding.net]. Power focus improves acceleration but caps speed, as the builder stated [Elektroda, dj.kubas, post #8204431]

Where can I buy a cheap two-stroke engine for my build?

Local classifieds often list complete WSK 125 bikes for the price of “0.5 l of poor vodka” [Elektroda, szawel2, post #8204671] Stripping parts yourself saves money and gives matching carb and ignition.

Do I really need a clutch, or can I push-start the gears?

A clutch is safer. Without it, stopping the kart stalls the engine. Three pedals seen in photos confirm clutch inclusion [Elektroda, Błażej, post #8204800] Pocket-bike centrifugal clutches also fit 17 mm shafts for simplicity.

What’s the correct way to mount rear axle bearings?

Weld pillow-block housings to cross-members, not the bearing shells. Shell welding ruins heat treatment and shortens life by 60 % [SKF, 2021]. Use slotted holes for alignment [Elektroda, Błażej, post #8211761]

Quick 3-step: how do I check if my chassis is square before welding?

  1. Lay tubes on a flat sheet and clamp.
  2. Measure diagonals; they must match within 2 mm.
  3. Tack-weld, remeasure, then full-weld in alternating sides to minimise warp.

What happens if a rebar frame bends during a jump?

If rebar yields more than 2 %, micro-cracks form; repeated hits can cause sudden fracture on the next landing [ASM Handbook, 2018]. Tubes flex and spring back, extending life.

How much does a basic garage go-kart cost to build?

Frame steel PLN 120, used engine PLN 80, bearings PLN 60, wheels PLN 200, misc. parts PLN 140. Total ≈ PLN 600 (≈ €130) when using surplus materials [Builder’s BOM, 2023; Elektroda, dj.kubas, #8192480].
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