Making a go-kart in the garage instruction

You did indeed do whatever came up. Rebars are a rather poor material to build anything riding, heavy.
What were you making the axle of? Did you bring?

Almost finished, only a few parts for the engine are missing; / soon I will upload photos of the finished go-kart.



Regards

very interesting structure. But what speed will I develop, I don't think he will have sensational performance?

I'm more about power than speed.
Regards

Two things caught my eye at once:
1. drive chain tension - it is not visible that there is any adjustment there, and it will be very useful, because the chain always stretches a little;
2.brake disc - it wears out, and you have it welded to the axle ...

An efficient WSK 125 engine costs 0.5 liters of poor quality vodka (most often together with the rest of a functional motorcycle ), why do you play with completing the engine? The more so because when it stayed in this state for a few years, only the body is actually usable.

szawel2 wrote:

Two things caught my eye at once:
1. drive chain tension - it is not visible that there is any adjustment there, and it will be very useful, because the chain always stretches a little;

You can always take the links from time to time.

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2.brake disc - it wears out, and you have it welded to the axle ...

It is consumed at a distance not realistic for this machine, i.e. several tens of thousands. km.

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An efficient WSK 125 engine costs 0.5 liters of poor quality vodka (most often together with the rest of a functional motorcycle )

And that's what it is worth - between PLN 40 and PLN 3 / kg. I will not say a very professional opinion.

The chain can always be tensioned with a roller, although in fact the tension adjustment could be.
Reinforcing bars just have so much elasticity that if they bend, it will stay that way. Besides, their weight is significant.
The brake caliper hardly sits on the disc, but above it. Such an assembly makes no sense.

After all, the pictures show that THREE pedals are mounted there. So what is the third for? Someone mounted from the momentum?

robokop wrote:

You can always take the links from time to time.

With a chain this short, it won't work. However, the roll that I propose Blaise , it's a good solution with a belt, but with a chain it's also a bit so ...

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It is consumed at a distance not realistic for this machine, i.e. several tens of thousands. km.

Well, the fact that the wear of the brake disc is not a hit with such a vehicle, but there are many other problems - starting from loss of alignment during welding. And then cutting, re-welding, replacing the entire axle?
In the end, a disposable toy comes out, because in the event of a failure, half would have to be replaced.

Ehh ... you would do a little bit ...

After all, it will bend you ...
You would go to scrap metal and have some nice tubes for a few zlotys.

I do not like it :
bearings, welded (those on the axle)
brake disc too

rebar, damn it ...
a thin, thick-walled tube, or smaller than a hydraulic one, and everything is great, and it would look better ..
how will it drive, well, estimate ...

dj.kubas wrote:

I would be afraid to drive something like that, the pads hardly cover the disc - they brake with a maximum of half of their friction surface. And this shield ventilation ... :)

Well, unless it's a parking brake

It does not have to have no known brakes because it will not run at dizzying speed and the caliper is screwed and not welded. Only clamp mountings are welded
Regards!

I do not know how these bearings will handle in operation .. As for the rods .. Well, in my opinion, they are not a very good solution. A tube, even a little thicker than these rods, would be stronger, and the rods will bend confidently; / Well, I can see that it is really minimalist. Well, I'm curious how it will drive .. I would also start building something like that, but unfortunately I do not have a welder: /

: dj.kubas - in general, you did it wisely, because you got acquainted with the subject before starting work. Nevertheless, you used the wrong materials, the workmanship and its precision as well as the solutions used, whether it is a non-disposable vehicle from your construction.
1. Support the vehicle structure on seamless pipes.
2. Come up with some kind of chain tensioning mechanism - it can be an adjustable engine bed bolted to the frame. This has the advantage that the possible replacement of the engine will not involve rebuilding the whole thing, but replacing the bed.
3. Design the brake, remembering that the disc or caliper (more simply a caliper) must be able to move (swim) to work properly.
4. Consider some safe fuel tank so that in the event of a fall, the fuel does not spill over you and the hot engine (I guess you can guess what the risk is).
5. Apply some housings to the rear axle bearings, not "snot" to the frame.

Ok, I will try to correct what I did wrong .. Thanks for the advice Regards!

Hi, I'm going to build a go-kart and I have a question, what did you get the brake caliper from ?? would be good with the car ?? you are going to do some cooling of the engine because when you torture you may lose the engine with mz 150 etz would be good because I heard that it can overheat

The rebars will not last too long ... I have an original frame made of profiles and it could break just before mounting the bearing on the motor side. So good luck

do not think that I am a construction dumbhead, I formulated the question wrongly because I mean whether the clamp will come off enough to clamp a disc made of, for example, an old saw blade or made of thick sheet metal, because the brake disc from the car is quite thick. after 2 I would not like to combine the design is to be simple ... that's why I did not even consider the windmill drive, e.g. with a magnet, I meant more about some airflow from the car connected to the engine coil or the use of ignition with a mini pocket bike (such a small chaser) he is light and additionally has a windmill on it

I thought about the engine with 150 etz because my neighbor has and I know it well and I would sell it cheaply, so I would have to take ignition from a poket, it is light and has ventilation

This is what I mean to have a 2 in 1 light ignition that does not need to be set up and cooling is provided. and why is this ignition emergency? I thought to cut a hole in the housing to draw air and at the top to extract this air onto the cylinder. and as for the engine of the etz 251, I am glad that I have a limited budget

You probably ran out of brake hose and made it this far, but just put it under this profile and you already have enough hose to place the caliper further on the disc. In general, the structure could be quite extensive if you have access to some scrap materials