Hello. I would like to present my xenon searchlight construction made of a poor quality halogen flashlight. The housing is provided by the CR2008S-1B flashlight, originally powered by a 6V 4Ah battery and a lit H3 6V 100W bulb, which instantly discharged the battery. The housing accommodates a 3s6p li-ion battery pack from used mole icr18650h cells with a capacity of 2.2Ah. It is protected with the PCM-L03S08-012 system against the rated discharge current of 7A, however, the current consumed at start-up does not turn off the plate. Measurements with the imax b6 charger showed a package capacity of over 10Ah, which would probably allow for 3 hours of uninterrupted work, but runtime tests are still ahead of me. The converter was mounted on the underside of the flashlight in the place on the fold-out foot. The burner was mounted in the place of the original bulb using spacers (to improve focusing and to prevent the burner from touching the glass, unfortunately the reflector is quite shallow). In addition, additional 5mm LEDs that were mounted in the front headlight and at the back of the flashlight in place of the red glass were removed. There is a socket for the charger balancer outside. The flashlight has a very wide spil due to the shallow reflector
The balancer socket is this plug (black cube) in the photo on the side with 4 cables, it just fits perfectly into the imax socket, as for the charging socket, I will probably put it in the place where the inverter power cable currently enters because it is quite long and I can let it go the hole on the other side. The battery indicator is rather unnecessary because the battery is guarded by the PCM that will disconnect the power when one of the cell sets is discharged below 2.7V The inverter is some cheap no name, something similar to this http://interlook.pl/pol_pl_Przetwornica-XENON-12V-35W-DC-554_4.jpg, however, this is not a very cool solution because the burner changes the shade of light when you move the flashlight. as for lighting, there is something like this in the room with field beamshots it may be a problem because it was only after 11 PM I could do something. Just out of curiosity, I weighed the structure and I have less than 1.9 kg.
I also changed such a flashlight. The fact that the original bulb spoils the battery very quickly. I converted mine to LED, and in the housing H3. I left the diodes around, the middle diode is withdrawn to make the greatest gain of light and scattering, 3 18650 cells have been mounted inside, a li-ion charger, there are two converters, one for the diodes in the front and the warning light has been set to 6V , the second is connected to a 12V bulb, the voltage on the second converter is set to 13V. The charging socket is made in place of the original socket, a USB B socket is installed there.
I also converted such a similar flashlight - only to a flat surface with live LEDs I screwed an aluminum module with a CREE 6W diode - real from the US (with a radiator thrown at the back, which would not melt the reflector). The "original" Chinese akku immediately went to the trash and I replaced it with a Sanyo gel with the same dimensions and voltage - so I did not have to change anything in the power supply or the interior of the housing - the Somehow the "original" charger works. I made the power supply to the diode quite primitive - only a small ceramic resistor bringing the voltage down to about 3.8V - I did not want to get into the converters and the diode runs almost at the nominal current, so the resistor does not heat up much. The flashlight has a very nice focus and uniformity of the stream - accidentally it turned out just right. Well, but I will not compare it with the HID burner
field beamshots may be a problem because it was only after 11 pm that I could do something
Maybe the author would post a night photo of how it works on a larger area outside the home?
It can be hard with beamshots. In the evenings, the air in the area is not very clear. In addition, I noticed that the burner is not set well enough yet. In addition, there is not much space to move further away because the burner handle moves too much from the reflector socket and then it is worse to center the burner in the middle. for those interested, a label from the converter KStanek Could this H3 led stand direct power from a fully charged 4S package?
Well, I present a beamshot from about 25 m. The whole stain on the wall is a spot that, unfortunately, continues to diverge, and at the bottom, the coated electrode gives this strip. I don't really see how to improve further, when it comes to H3 led with smd diodes on at least 7 sides, because the stronger H3 diodes are a considerable cost. And I would probably have to convert the power supply to 4S to cut costs. Sory for the quality of the photos (frost and wind do their job) and in addition I do not know how to set the samsung es90 camera to shoot beamshots like those racial fan addicts at light.pl
I tried it on stabilized power supplies and it worked on 18V - without damaging the LED. It was on for 3 hours.
and there was no problem with the LED heating? I connected to a charged battery a li-ion screwdriver (about 16.5 V) replacement for a H3 bulb with 9 5050 LEDs, after an hour-one and a half already one LED started to "flow" from the pcb
As for the post above about LED replacements H1 / 3/7 - how did the author fit the toto in the flashlight? After all, functional diode replacements for the above-mentioned halogens, which are actually intended for installation in a car headlight (I am not writing about Chinese pseudo-replacers made "per piece"), have giant heat sinks on the shaft side ....