Hello, in the lcr t4, I beat the display so I wanted to replace it with 2x16 lcd. I have tl866II plus, first I had a problem with programming the atmega328p so I desoldered and replaced it with amega8l, the programmer detects it, unfortunately, after pressing the power button, the bottom row of the display lights up, all segments are lit and it does not respond
Looking at the bottom of the PCB these fields are connected in parallel with the SMD quartz resonator, this is probably an option for the through hole version.
Exactly. I desoldered the SMD quartz, straightened the legs and soldered in this place, because (most likely today) the tester will stand in the housing and a place for a Li-Poly cell is needed.
And here's a question for the Ladies and Gentlemen: I removed the 78M05 stabilizer, shorted the fields, changed the "upper" voltage measurement resistor to 4.7k (not to scream that the voltage was too low) and through a small step-up converter I power it with Li-Poly. How to modify FW to show battery voltage and turn off at 3.3V? What configuration of divider resistors should I give (I would give higher values so that the current flowing through them was as low as possible)? Of course, I will cut the measuring line from the power supply and connect it directly to the battery.
Hello. Problem a bit strange ... I triggered my m328 because of stupidity, but that's not the problem. I program Atmega, hex, eep and coffee grounds are ok, verification ok, I install and fire, and here zonk ... everything in mirror image ... Help, where is babol ???
Hello, due to the lack of an atmega 328 at hand, I bought a second tester, after three months I did not discharge the capacitor and the tester fell. I ordered an atmega 328 in the 328pb version, I programmed with various batches, the tester fires but does not pass the self test, i.e. after shorting all the terminals, it enters the selftest and so it stays on another software after shorting the terminals, it goes into selftest measures the jumpers as resistors and after some time the inscription not appears calibrate
I warmly welcome. And I have a delicate problem, it came to me with a blue button and I put something to test it tests .... It shows the values for 2 seconds and everything disappears when I hold the button pressed it shows the value as long as I hold ... I did the calibration reaches 43% I put a capacitor I will think it crashes End ... And it turns off now when I turn on instead of damaged .... Element, etc. I have 40 pf some capacitor from space on empty pins myfrind sent me with soft soft ... firmware best regards
And since the topic about changing the firmware is due to the fact that my original display did not survive the assembly, I decided to adapt a 2x16 display to the existing board (popular HD 47780) [...] in the firmware attachment
Why is there no proper symbol defined for resistance in the firmware? Not every display has an Omega. You have to define the symbol yourself. Unfortunately, the author of the modification did not provide his code. Ok, I did a batch with Omega. mega328_2X...6_menu.zip Download (29.49 kB)Points: 4 for user
I warmly welcome. And I have a delicate problem, it came to me with a blue button and I put something to test it tests .... It shows the values for 2 seconds and everything disappears when I hold the button pressed it shows the value as long as I hold ... I did the calibration reaches 43% I put a capacitor I will think it crashes End ... And it turns off now when I turn on instead of damaged .... Element, etc. I have 40 pf some capacitor from space on empty pins myfrind sent me with soft soft ... because if so, I will throw something else there best firmware
I had a similar problem after updating the software. It turned out that after soldering the wires needed to program the tester, the flux that was in the tin spilled between these pins and caused erroneous readings of the tester. Also a good lesson for dirty people - you have to clean up after yourself. I got a connector and everything works fine:
If anyone would like to, I provide a housing model for the above-mentioned meter by me. A little more compact and according to me more comfortable than the original. Inside there is space for 2.5mm threaded brass inserts. Screw length 10mm. Models (housing and lid) in STL format, packed in a zip. I don't know if it's a good place, but I'm not going to start a whole new DIY topic for that kind of crap. Maybe it will be useful to someone.