PEUGEOT BOXER III - Repair of the AdBlue tank PEUGEOT BOXER III, CITROEN JUMPER

bbmax wrote:

P20E8 driver upgrade needs to be done

Can you elaborate on the topic? Where can such an upgrade be done? Only at the ASO? What changes does this upgrade make?

Dealer, purchase your own equipment or go to a friend's workshop in Karpacz where I left my can adapter

_Hose_ wrote:

I rode at a time when there was no sign of rain the week before or the week after, heat and nothing else. It's possible that something wasn't making contact somewhere (even though I've never done anything there) and now it's ok. The most important thing is that it works, at least it still works 😁

It doesn't work anymore, the problem is back.
Does the 308 T9 have this device identical to the Boxer?
I am asking about electronics and how to diagnose it.

The shape of the tank is different because it must be adapted to the shape of the chassis, but the most important thing is the same. Of course, it is impossible to replace, for example, the electronic board between the Boxer and the 308 because they have different software. The capacity of the tank is different because it has a different shape, the software has different capacities, etc. You can easily try to repair the tank based on what is in this thread.

Thanks for the info. I'll take out the tank at some point and have some fun. The program is rather located in the engine controller? Is the tank plate the same as in other Peugeots? What a contraption.

_Hose_ wrote:

Thanks for the info. I'll take out the tank at some point and have some fun. Is the program located in the engine controller? Is the tank plate the same as in other Peugeots? What a contraption.

The program sits on an electronic board in the tank. The board has its own processor marked as U300 and this processor controls all the tank systems. The processor only sends information to the engine controller whether everything is OK, or sends errors. The description of the board and its circuits is located in this thread. There is also a block diagram of the board, please see post no. 5. The boards are the same in all tanks, but depending on the car, the U300 processor runs its program with different parameters, so the board cannot be swapped between different types of car. Cars have different engines, different power, etc. They each need a different dose of urea, etc. To sum up, the boards are physically the same, but have different software depending on the type of car. The board is described quite thoroughly in this thread, there are also photos of individual circuits with a description of what each circuit does. Please read this entire thread carefully before starting the repair, it will help you be better prepared for the repair. If you encounter any problem during repair, please write here on the forum, there will always be someone who will help. It is worth making a thorough visual inspection and looking for any moisture or a white coating of crystallized urea on the tile. Problems are often caused by leaks in the hydraulic system and leakage of even a small amount of urea into the part of the tank that contains the electronics.

Does anyone of you know what controls the AdBlue injector in Citroen C5, where to look for the other end of the circuit? I have error P2047 open circuit. The injector was functional for a short time, the injector cube was measured with an ohmmeter, it was about 20 ohms.

The injector is controlled directly from the engine's central computer. I don't have a diagram of your car, but I'm 99% sure it's the same in your case. Around 7 p.m. I will send you a diagram of my car, maybe it will help you locate the damage.

Added after 8 [minutes]:

Please look for the other end of the cable directly on one of the pins from the engine ECU (main engine controller)

Thank you very much for help!

1320 - ECU (engine main computer) PIN 85 and PIN 86

12B4 - urea injector

ECU - Electronic Control Unit ✓ Electronic control module; The task of the control unit is to supervise the proper operation of the car engine


I don't know if this is the case in your car, but 99% of the time the urea injector is controlled directly from the ECU.
There may be control on other pins, but you can start by checking pins 85 and 86. Please pay attention to the colors of the wires, they should be the same at both ends, because there is no connection cube on the way (it is not in the diagram, so it should this pair of wires at both ends have the same color).

Super helpful, thank you.

Can I remove the AdBlue countdown in Peugeot Boxer 2.2 BlueHDi 165 km 2021 - it went down to 0 with the Lexia scanner?

In 508, I deleted the mini Vgate iCar2 interface + FAPlite application.

The H-bridge is needed to empty the installation of urea, so that it does not freeze after a night, for example.
After starting the engine, the SCR system refills the installation to keep the system running.

Hello. Thank you for such a helpful topic. My patient is a Peugeot 5008 II 1.6 HDI 120 HP. After checking all the sensors, the error was on the sensor with the yellow 200 ohm wires. I cut off the yellow wires and soldered a 10k resistor to them. After this "repair", the car stopped displaying AdBlue damage. I still have a question: can this type of "repair" have any side effects?

Can anyone tell what is in the picture (the black part that hangs on the wires).





It appears, That it is NGK NOX SENSOR SONDA ?

And isn't that a plug cover?

I bet on the nox probe .

Yes this is the NOX probe




It was not secured with a bolt and the entire cover with the NOX probe popped out of the latches and hung under the car. There was an error on the dashboard " no communication with the NOX probe" The reason for this was flooding the connector with salt water and dirt from the road (slush).

>>20445663

welcome , I have a similar fault resistance on smd thermistor on heating board 380ohm at 12stC. I wanted to put it new in the hole with the wires that are marked in the picture will this solution pass the test ?

Add in series resistors in the yellow wires

that is, at this temperature it should have a thermistor of 17.23kohm , I will solder 17kohm and check how the resistance changes at different temperatures of water in the tank

I soldered 15kohm , after three attempts ( warming up the engine to operating temp) no errors .

Well, and great!!! Keep it up!!!
And 5k left in your pocket.

You have to drive the car only after about 15 km, the Adblue system is checked.
.

all the routes I have covered were much more than 20km in total there were already 6 of them and no errors .

>>20419654
You can always use an alternative shutdown service. But just like you, I support the contribution and a lot of work put in by the creator of the topic.

Hello everyone, I have a 2018 Peugeot 3008 - 2 l diesel - like most users, I have a problem with the AdBlue tank. I dismantled the tank, disassembled all the electronics and measured the parameters. In the non-removable part, I inserted a 10kohm resistor on the yellow wires from the heating plate. After measuring the parameters, the rest seems to be good, the only difference in my case is in the non-removable part, it is on the black plug from the fuel level, because this plug has four cables and not three, but after the measurements it seems to be good. After assembling the tank to the car and starting it, I noticed a communication error and, of course, a problem with the pressure. The only strange thing is that the computer shows zero bars, not four as before. My problem is that after unplugging the plug from the J3 board on the heating elements such as Pump - valve - battery, the heating sensors show me different parameters than those shown by the colleague from the post above, namely my indications are as follows:
A- heating plate Urea - 1.3 ohm
B- Short urea cable - 27 ohm
C- Green circuit - 51 ohms
D- yellow circuit - 49 ohms
E- circuit Blue - 12 ohms
F- white circuit - 13 ohms
G- Cable from the tank to the injection 0.0 ohm

And the indications - Mako 122
- Before a detailed description, I put the correct resistance values of all circuits here:
A) plate heating the urea in the tank (there is no direct access to it) - 1.3 Ω
B) cable connecting the urea filter with the pump assembly (approximately 30 cm long) - 27.0 Ω
C) "green" circuit, pump heating - 55.0 Ω
D) "yellow" circuit, solenoid valve heating - 55.0 Ω
E) "blue" circuit, urea battery heating - 212.0 Ω
F) "white" circuit, heating the elbow at the point where the urea exits the tank - 22.0 Ω
G) heating circuit of the tube between the tank and the injector (about 1.5 m) - 2.5 Ω

And now I don`t know if these parameters can differ, because I had four cables on the fuel level plug, and in most of you there are three, and after disassembling the entire pump plate and all the elements, it seems to me that it is the same plate, only with the difference in the fuel plug, is it possible that two or all of the heating sensors are broken at once? I checked the pump according to the instructions in the video and everything seems to be fine, it draws water and the pressure also seems to be good.
Please help. Thank you.

Has anyone had a problem with sealing the connection between the tank and the pipe leading to the injector? In my case, 90% of the fluid escapes from here, which is why I think the pressure in the system is too low. The tank is dirty and there are crystals under the car. How to seal it? Add some O-ring? Is it possible to replace the cable? And this one is not cheap, probably around PLN 700....

Andrezej1976
the heater has a short circuit in the 1.5 m cable, you need to find where the wires are short-circuiting or install a resistor with a heat sink in the plug to cheat the controller and check if the system will start.