PEUGEOT BOXER III - Repair of the AdBlue tank PEUGEOT BOXER III, CITROEN JUMPER

Well, it's probably a car/driver issue. In Citroen C4 2.0 2015 it is 70stC.

Hello, great topic and I will join with a question. Is this MLX90360LDC chip programmable, can I order it on aliexpres and easily replace it?

Good evening gentlemen
I’ve been searching the internet for a few hours and found this place I hope I can get some help.
A brief description of the case is as follows. Citroen Jumper year 2019, 2.0 BlueHDI 163KM engine - factory-built semi-integrated motorhome. The car was bought new in a showroom in Poland - I am the second owner. I’ve had the car for 56,000 miles and it’s been great so far. Currently the mileage is 71.5 thousand km. From November to almost the end of January this year, the car was stored in a heated hall and was not used. Before inserting for wintering, information about the low level of adblue was displayed to me, but I decided to supplement it before the next trip, i.e. in about 3 months. When I picked up the car, it didn’t want to start, but I managed to get the cables. I quickly replaced the car battery and that same evening we set out on a trip to Morocco. Of course, I refueled adblue to the full (10 liters came in) and we set off on the road. After about 700 km, the message "check the adblue system in the service - see the manual" was displayed on the board. I am very stressed by such messages but the car was driving normally so I continued driving. In about 50 km, another message "check engine in service" came out. I panicked a bit but nothing happened so I kept going. We got to our family in Belgium and there I managed to get to the equivalent of NorAuto and a nice gentleman connected to the computer on the left side below the steering wheel, erased the errors and wished us nice holidays. I breathed a sigh of relief - nothing was on the board, so we happily drove on. The luck didn’t last more than 10 minutes as the errors popped up again. Since then, i.e. for 4 days, we have traveled about 1,600 km and the car is driving normally, but I am more and more stressed whether to continue the journey .... In France, out of curiosity, I added adblue and it came in less than 2 liters after driving 2,000 km, so it usually takes it. I found a description of a similar situation on the web, but nowhere was it described in such detail and detail as here. The advice was different - they wrote not to tighten the adblue plug, etc., but these treatments did not help. The only suggested solution was to program adblue from the software and solve this problem once and for all. I contacted various motorhome friends but most of them have a 2.3 ducato engine and there are no such problems, although one of my colleagues informed me that one of the people at the campsite has the same car as me only from 2020 and had the same problem. The ASO service requested about PLN 8,500,000 for the repair ... Finally, some software specialist for PLN 1,600 took care of the matter, the car drives and everyone is happy. I am worried about the information that other users have given about limiting the range of the car. So far I do not have such a message, but I am 2,500,000 km from home and I have about 7,000 km ahead of me in the original plan ... I looked through your entries and you can see that you know what you are writing about, especially the founder of the topic who put a lot of time and work in this thread. I like cars but I have no idea how to repair them and I can’t imagine removing the tank myself, etc., apart from the lack of equipment, I simply wouldn’t be able to check even the simplest things you write about ... I can’t imagine taking the car to Poland on a tow truck because AC covers towing up to 500 km .... Can anyone advise a sensible solution?

"blue" circuit heating the urea accumulator - 212.0 ? is the value correct?

cscrobo wrote:

"blue" circuit heating the urea accumulator - 212.0 ? is the value correct?

Strange thing now I checked again because I have two tanks the same. And now on the blue circuit I have 16.0 ? on one tank and 42.0 ? on the other tank !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I would bet that it was 212.0 ? Then I was measuring in the summer when it was hot and now in the winter so maybe it depends on the outside temperature? Now I'm crazy to the max.

I checked 2 different tanks and at the same temperature one has 18.1 and the other 14.8

Hello, I had a problem with the tank in c4 Picasso II 2.0 hdi error "urea pressure" and range 1100km. Today I removed it and it turned out that the temperature sensor on the tank heater plate is false (yellow wires) had a resistance of 353 ohms. I installed a new 10kohm thermistor in a 25cm hose. and pushed it through the beam hole in the vicinity of this heater in the bottom of the tank so as not to play in cutting. To be honest, I don't know how to go about disassembling this tank and the lower part of the dragon with the heater and then gluing it to make it tight. After replacing this thermistor everything works fine. I do not know what technique you use to dismantle and glue the tank, maybe someone will share and throw some photos of the dismantled tank. To be honest, it was thanks to this information from the post that I dealt with it without any problems because what the computer showed was a bunch of nonsense.
Thank you and best regards.

rklucz1297 wrote:

Hello, I had a problem with the tank in c4 Picasso II 2.0 hdi error "urea pressure" and range 1100km. Today I removed it and it turned out that the temperature sensor on the tank heater plate is false (yellow wires) had a resistance of 353 ohms. I installed a new 10kohm thermistor in a 25cm hose. and I pushed it through the beam hole in the vicinity of this heater in the bottom of the tank so as not to play in cutting. To be honest, I don't know how to go about disassembling this tank and the lower part of the dragon with the heater and then gluing it to make it tight. After replacing this thermistor everything works fine. I do not know what technique you use to dismantle and glue the tank, maybe someone will share and throw some photos of the dismantled tank. To be honest, it was thanks to this information from the post that I dealt with it without any problems because what the computer showed was a bunch of nonsense.
Thank you and best regards.

I will try to answer your questions briefly and to the point.
Please don't even try to get inside the tank because it doesn't make sense and nothing good will come of it. I made such an attempt and ended up buying a used tank on Allegro.
When driving a car, the tank is subject to quite strong stresses, the overflowing urea during braking hits the walls of the tank. I haven't found a glue that can glue the tank properly. The only method is welding with ABS plastic. It doesn't make any sense. For PLN 200 - 300 you will buy a damaged tank for Allegro and with a high degree of probability this lower part will be functional and after the problem. That's what I did and it's been fine for almost two years now. The material from which the tank is made is ABS plastic, very durable but difficult to glue. To get to the part you want, you first need to split the tank in half, and only then will you get to the next one, let's call it the box in which the sensor is located. It has very complex shapes and contains delicate parts and it is almost a miracle to cut open this can without damaging these elements. Re-gluing is a nightmare because this part is made of even more difficult to glue material. In short, please don't even try! What you did is sufficient in my opinion and the tank should be treated as repaired. Maybe with very strong frosts there will be some error, but I don't think so.

Please see this video:
https://youtu.be/UmnpfIcHvlU
to see what it all looks like.

Gentlemen, here's the situation:
January 2023 negative temperatures, "low pressure" error. I filled up adblue plus tunap 986 twice or maybe even three times the recommended portion. Every now and then I cleared the adblue error. And today, after about 2000 - 2500 km, since the error first appeared, at a temperature of plus 10 degrees outside for the first time, the error disappeared by itself and will not appear for about 50 km. I drove so much today.
Any explanation for this situation, is it Tunap or higher temperature or something else what do you think?

Can the level sensor in adblue tank be repaired or replaced without replacing the entire tank? When the live data on diagbox says the tank is empty when in fact it's full.

frenchiemech1982 wrote:

Is it possible to repair or replace the level sensor in the adblue tank without replacing the entire tank. When the live data on diagbox says the tank is empty when in fact it is full.

The sensor itself cannot be replaced because it is located in a non-demountable part of the tank, but you can cheat the computer.
This is covered earlier in this thread. The matter is very simple.

Conclusion with a faulty level sensor and no possibility of repair, because it is located in a non-dismountable part of the tank, the sensor should be disconnected and the voltage should be applied to the cube, e.g. +4.5V, which will be read by the AdBlue system computer that there is a high level of urea!! And after the problem!! Just remember to top up the urea on time.




description in the photo:


R1 - resistor 4.7 k?
R2 - resistor 47.0 k?

red - ed
black - black
white - white

Black cube - black terminal

>>20423065
Hello, I have 10 units of Peugeot pumps, I own a 3008 from 2016, with a mileage of 45,000, I replaced the tank under warranty after three years and 40,000 km, the problem has returned. Due to the significant cost of the new tank, I am trying to solve the problem myself. I need data in what range the resistances of the heaters in the pump module should be. Green, yellow, blue, white circuits. I measured these resistances on my pump modules and the readings for these circuits on each module are different

Gentlemen
what are the consequences of adblue programming?

>>19585986
Waste of time trying to fix this pump. As if man creates and man should repair. But as of today, the cost outweighs a possible attempt at regeneration. Turn off adblue and after the topic.

Added after 8 [minutes]:

The consequences of disabling adblue are NONE. No one in Poland or at the review is able to check the SCR system. They do not have the equipment for this type of analysis. Even if etc had it, the whole check would be based on a neighbor's report that you turned off adblue. After switching off, the emission standard does not change. The whole business is to sell NOX probes, pump-tanks, etc. The SCR system can kneel in one-year-old Mercedes and the repair costs tens of thousands. A properly turned off adblue system does not change anything in the car and it cannot be detected. Paranoia is spreading in the network that after turning off adblue you will end up in Siberia ))) If we explore the operation of the SCR system, it is not so easy to diagnose it, let alone detect its shutdown As for the regeneration of the pump and its resurrection, true respect for the author of the post. I can help with any software.

I asked in technical terms, dpf ... other of this type.

I had a little acid in the service, I took the car to repair the power steering and during the acceptance and attempt to start I was greeted by a not very pleasant message "something about a critical error of the engine and ADblue".

The workshop that I brought such a car, after a stormy exchange of opinions, an electrician came to diagnose, asked him to leave the workshop and after 10 minutes he came back, he said it was ok and the problem was a non-connecting cube at the controller.
When I asked if he accidentally programmed Adblue, he denied it and said that it would take him about an hour.

Since then, there is no critical message, the low fluid level indicator does not light up, and I drive a lot to check it, recently I refueled under the cap and after a few refuelings I want to check if it has gone down.

Programming takes a few seconds to a dozen or so, sometimes an hour, but it depends on the method of flashing the ECU - if it was done by an independent Tuner on the spot. So he wasn't waiting for a "file" from the other end of Poland What car are we talking about, give the year, capacity, how many kw?

Berlin 2016, 1.6

Adblue can be turned off either on Edc17 or md1 a moment of work

I'll know after a few fill ups

connect the tester and see what's going on Do the SCR diagnostics

My laptop has run out, I have to take the stationary one to the garage and it's so average

Does anyone have access to where you can buy the AdBlue pump motor itself?

I can sell it to you, take a photo of what you need.

bbmax wrote:

I'm wondering what fix tool and flasher with tank

Hello, have you found this tool?
Thanks

308, 1.6 hdi 120 HP. A trip to Italy, halfway through the route, AdBlue failure and the kilometers countdown. In Italy, refilling AdBlue (10 liters), following the procedure in the service book, nothing. Returning home from holiday, good thing we had a hotel on the way home in Nuremberg, there was 100 km left until the start lock. The next day, I drove home with refuel without turning it off. At home, I connected it, cleared the errors, and they kept coming back. I decided that I would start repairing it in the fall. I was surprised when it suddenly guessed AdBlue and the odometer. Since then I have driven 2500 km and everything works. Is it possible that it bled after 2,000 km?

In my humble opinion, it's not about venting. The connection cubes may have become damp or there may have been a temporary loss of contact. I disassembled my tank several times and refilled it with urea and it worked properly right away. No bleeding was needed. This is not a closed system (as in central heating, where it is necessary to bleed air after filling the system). In the case of the tank, the system does not tend to get air in because at the end of the entire system there is an injector that acts as an air vent. It is enough for the control computer to activate the injector a dozen or so times and the air will be pushed out of the system. Please check the connection cubes outside the tank and carefully observe the system. If the same message appears again, please start repairing the tank quickly because the cause of the failure may be a leak in the hydraulic system and periodic splashing of urea on the electronic system, which will lead to corrosion and permanent damage to the electronics. You should inspect and visually determine whether there is any moisture on the electronic board and contacts. Maybe it got damp and the board dried out and started working properly again, but that's no consolation. If splashed, after some time the urea will cause corrosion and permanent damage to the tile. I would look for the fault outside the tank. If the cubes are dry and everything is OK, I would disassemble the tank and see what the electronics look like and whether there is any white residue from the crystallization of urea.

I rode at a time when there was no sign of rain the week before or the week after, heat and nothing else. It's possible that something wasn't making contact somewhere (even though I've never done anything there) and now it's ok. The most important thing is that it works, at least it still works 😁

Hi,
Let me start by thanking the author - thanks to you, I managed to diagnose and initially "repair" my tank (Peugeot 308, 1.6 BHDI from 2014).
After disassembling the tank, I diagnosed damaged fluid level and heating plate temperature sensors - resistances of several hundred ohms, voltage measurement tests give illogical results. The reason for the damage is Adblue inside this "cassette with a heating plate". I replaced the level sensor with a divider with two resistors (4.7 and 47k), and I inserted a 10k thermistor into the rubber corrugated tube.

I also have some observations that I decided to share (unfortunately it was very long 😊):
- the resistances of the heating circuits of the pump group controlled together (the "green" circuit - heating the pump, the "yellow" circuit - heating the solenoid valve, the "blue" circuit - heating the urea accumulator, the "white" circuit - heating the elbow where the urea exits the tank) I have different resistances than the author of the post ( Unfortunately, I lost the sheet of paper with the values written down). The resultant resistance of all circuits in my case is about 7 ohms (the author of the post had 11.6) - this does not cause any problems for now
- the resistances of the heating circuits of all hoses and the plate are the same
- pump cables: after briefly connecting the black plus, green and yellow minus, the pump pumps urea and fills the battery (opposite as in one of the posts). The pump works in both directions. The urea suction and pump operation are audible after turning off the engine - it appears when the hot engine is turned off and the SCR system is operational.
- the thermistor inserted about 10 cm into the corrugated rubber cable in the tank reacts only minimally to the heating of the plate. After a few minutes of heating (connected for a short time), you can hear crackling noises inside the tank - about 10 liters of ADBLUE have been filled.
- in the diagbox I have the parameters: urea pipe heating power and tank heating power in %, which suggests that there is at least PWM and not ON/OFF - based on which thermometer it is controlled, I have no idea. I also believe that since ADBLUE does not like temperatures above 30 degrees, this tile should not reach higher temperatures
- I drove about 300 km in a few days with the tank removed. I did not see any message such as 1100 km to start lock. Only after starting the car or after a few km, the messages engine fault, URERA fault, SERVICE and UREA warning lights appear. The messages only appeared once per startup. Errors in the engine controller: SCR absent, CAN communication error with SCR and low urea pressure (I don't remember the codes). Theoretically you can drive like this, but on the other hand I am not sure that somewhere in the background it is not counting the kilometers until the start lock.
- after installing the "repaired" tank, additional errors appeared: incorrect urea level, other SCR faults and the message "starting blocked after 1100 km" refreshed every few minutes. It didn't clear itself (I drove for one day, about 60 km). I suspect that they were stored somewhere in the tank controller, and since the ECU did not disconnect it because it diagnosed itself correctly after the "repair", they were sent.
- I performed the DENOX system reinitialization procedure in diagbox (or something similar). After this procedure, it does not report any messages immediately. The errors in the ECU then need to be deleted, they have not appeared again for several days.
- personally, I think that while a fire or burnout of the tank is quite unlikely (I have a thermistor inserted into this corrugated pipe), the problem may arise when this board reaches a temperature above 30 degrees and, in my opinion, it will degrade ADBLUE.
- I'll drive for a while and if there are still no errors, I'm going to put a heating cable with a thermistor glued into the tank (I'll probably replace the shunt, because 100W won't fit.) I'm also considering using an infrared heating foil (unfortunately, there's not enough space for 100W either) or lying with a few watt light bulb and a shunt swap. I also thought about cutting out a part of the tank (the one inside the chamber with the pump, directly under the pump), then replacing the thermistor, sealing the plate, do not glue it, just screw on the tank dome. This will, of course, mean that the space where the pump is originally located and the rest will be flooded with ADBLUE, so everything that is there will have to be moved outside the tank - in my opinion, it's doable, but it's a lot of work.

And yet the problem!!!!

After the repair of the tank, which I tried to describe in detail in this thread, another problem with AdBlue arose.
I repaired the tank at 17 thousand km almost two years ago. Until now, everything was OK. Never any AdBlue error appeared. I currently have a mileage of 37 thousand km.
To sum up, after two years and 20 thousand km driven, the AdBlue error unexpectedly appeared!!! While driving, a yellow engine tag appeared, beeped, and the message "AdBlue problem, check the error in the car manual" surprisingly the yellow "AdBlue failure" stamp did not appear.

I read the errors with a simple Torque app installed on my phone.
Permanent faults - none
Probable faults - P20E8

With the help of this application, I delete the probable error (P20E8) and the check engine light goes off, and it seems that everything will be OK, but the error returns after another cold start after the engine warms up (drive a few kilometers) the same error reappears.

I have been trying to diagnose this problem for a week. Before each subsequent drive of the car, I delete the error and the error returns. I did so for a week, during which time I drove about 300 kilometers. Surprisingly, after another erasing the error no longer appeared!!!
I drove another 100 km and everything is OK.
It seems that the error was temporary, although I am not sure what will happen next.

I wonder if the problem was with the tank? Maybe it's a matter of some injector clogging? Maybe the wrong fuel?

I'm wondering if I should apply TUNAP 986, with every urea refill?

TUNAP 986

Activities:
Protects AdBlue injectors and SCR catalytic converters.
Cleans contaminated AdBlue injectors and SCR catalysts.
Prevents crystallization and dissolves previously formed crystal deposits.
Keeps the system clean and functioning properly in all states of operation

Does anyone permanently use TUNAP 986?
Maybe someone has some experience with TUNAP 986?

It's not that big a cost because for 100 l of urea you should buy one bottle of TUNAP 986 for about 100 PLN

cdn....

P20E8 you need to upgrade the driver do