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TL;DR

  • A floating LED light / LED chaser project recreates the gradual moving glow used in Christmas decorations and floating turn signals.
  • The circuit uses a 74HC595-driven, single-sided SMD PCB with eight cathode outputs and a common-anode supply.
  • It runs from a single Li-Ion 18650 cell, and the potentiometer changes the effect speed.
  • The LEDs form a three-dimensional ring, and no series resistors are needed when powered from one Li-Ion cell.
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  • Floating LED light (LED chaser)

    Today`s mini-project is perfect as training material for young electronics students.

    Before Christmas, I was asked to make a simple Christmas tree decoration. Among many possibilities, I chose the floating light effect. It can be observed in "ignicle lights" on Christmas trees at Christmas fairs, in new luxury cars (floating indicators), or in the form of light floating in a circle (an interesting application is e.g. a bicycle rear light). It should be noted that this is not a shining running point, but a gradually lit line of light, which in the second phase gradually goes out, giving the effect of a wider moving light.

    Floating LED light (LED chaser) Floating LED light (LED chaser) Floating LED light (LED chaser)

    In this mini-project, I present a scheme proven in practice (there are usually various "interesting" errors on the Internet - I have been trying to combat this thoughtless practice for years), a single-sided PCB (in SMD technology) and the arrangement of elements. In my case, I power the system with a single Li-Ion 18650 cell with an attached charge/discharge control module (of course, the diagram does not take this into account, I use a known module with a nominal value of PLN 1-2).

    As you can see, there are no LEDs on the PCB, I made this glowing ring (in my case) in a three-dimensional form, using an idea from YT (just enter the phrase "74HC595 LED chaser"). On the PCB we have 8 outputs for cathodes and plus power supply for a common anode (in my case it is in the form of a circle made of thicker copper wire). When powered by one Li-Ion cell, LED resistors are unnecessary. It is worth adding that we can divide such a circle into 2 or 4 parts and solder 8 LEDs in each section. The potentiometer (peer) is used to change the speed of the effect.

    By the way, here`s a tip to help you make a nice circle with LEDs. First, we draw a circle, divide it into 8, 16 or 32 parts and mark the points for drilling 5mm holes. Then we stick our sketch on a piece of board, drill for a few minutes and we have a perfect template. Such help allows you to make many copies of the system in a repeatable way.

    Floating LED light (LED chaser) Floating LED light (LED chaser)

    Here you can see the first, prototype version of THT (I still had to make a few minor corrections here, as can be seen in the title photo). This is basically the finished "floating turn signal":

    Floating LED light (LED chaser) Floating LED light (LED chaser)

    A short video showing the achieved lighting effect:





    I recommend it to everyone learning the difficult art of soldering, such a system does not require complicated startup and should bring satisfaction :-)

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Offline 
    yogi009 wrote 14693 posts with rating 2650, helped 848 times. Been with us since 2006 year.
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  • #2 20899200
    trojan 12
    Level 40  
    Posts: 5015
    Help: 517
    Rate: 1111
    Gadgets for points LED Christmas tree 5V kit for assembly [045]
    Ready.
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  • #3 20899202
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Posts: 14693
    Help: 848
    Rate: 2650
    trojan 12 wrote:
    Gadgets for points LED Christmas tree 5V kit for assembly [045]


    Wouldn`t it be better to do something from A to Z yourself? Etch the board using the homemade method, assemble a few SMD elements, etc. By the way, I didn`t know that this kit was in gadgets. Although here we have greater creative possibilities. I`ll post a short video, you`ll understand :-)
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  • #4 20899206
    trojan 12
    Level 40  
    Posts: 5015
    Help: 517
    Rate: 1111
    And yes, you can. Start by digging out copper in the mine, silicon in the deposit... A smoke machine would probably come in handy as well.
  • #5 20899247
    Matheu
    Level 25  
    Posts: 1005
    Help: 61
    Rate: 302
    1) @trojan 12 : post #2 thanks for the tip/info about Gazeta!

    2) post #4
    trojan 12 wrote:
    And yes, you can. Start by digging out copper in the mine, silicon in the deposit... A smoke machine would probably come in handy as well.
    Why do you mock/discourage independence?
    walking this way-
    ` What for to learn addition/multiply/integration?!?
    I have a calculator!


    @trojan- DYI is here to please!
    what he does and what he gets.
    why ruin it?!?

    ==============================================================================================
    Let everyone choose what they can afford (skills, time and money) - assembling a ready-made item or making something completely new. Both options can be good.
    Why mock?
  • #6 20899358
    rafi8112
    Level 13  
    Posts: 199
    Rate: 190
    And I personally appreciate such work. Satisfaction with the built devices, even the simplest ones, is priceless, in the full sense of the word. If someone wants to be a real electronics designer, he or she must create various systems and thus gain the necessary experience and skills. Paper will accept everything - reality will not...
  • #7 20899688
    efi222
    Level 22  
    Posts: 765
    Help: 12
    Rate: 1204
    I support my friend yogi009 and rafi8112 here
    Some of us certainly remember the times when we had even "color" TV sets (Neptune). There was enthusiasm and pressure for various structures. Fighting and searching for parts around the world. Nowadays, especially the young (but not only) society are rather consumers. No offense to those who create something. Today`s designer has virtually unlimited access to electronic components, materials and tools. I returned to electronics after many years of break and was amazed at the possibilities of a modern amateur designer. In my opinion, creativity should be encouraged and not recommended thoughtlessly assembled kits (good for starting an adventure with electronics) or even ready-made devices.
    I agree that there is almost everything on the market now, but a project you design and build yourself will give you a lot of satisfaction.
  • #8 20900144
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Posts: 14693
    Help: 848
    Rate: 2650
    I added some pictures and a short video to the title post.
  • #9 20900259
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #10 20900957
    saly
    Level 32  
    Posts: 3249
    Help: 89
    Rate: 999
    It`s nice to build something sometimes and think about how to do it without a microcontroller, we should have an order to build every third project without a microcontroller. All the knowledge from years of technical school, a lot of knowledge from EdW... goes down the drain, we forget about the basics, we learn something new by programming, but the basics are forgotten.

    Your home plate is the iron or exposure method. Nice quality
  • #11 20900987
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Posts: 14693
    Help: 848
    Rate: 2650
    Jarzabek666 wrote:
    why don`t you protect the PCB with a solder mask after milling?


    Because this is the first training prototype (made in THT), I ultimately made the second version in SMD and this one was treated with varnish for electronic boards. I don`t need Soldermask to be happy, I don`t intend to buy it wholesale and sell it. It was supposed to go to 2-3 Christmas trees and it did.

    And the basic question: what kind of milling? :-)

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    saly wrote:
    Your home plate is the iron or exposure method. Nice quality


    It`s a classic iron, I`m not particularly proud of the result, but it`s more than enough for these purposes.

    As for the educational value... I chose this project because it works a little differently than 555 and 4017. Not every young electronics engineer has encountered 74HC595, and here he has a good opportunity to analyze how this logic system works. And I consciously promote the lack of a microcontroller, I agree with you, we need to show that before the era of processors, quite intelligent devices were built.

    Added after 9 [minutes]:

    rafi8112 wrote:
    Satisfaction with the built devices, even the simplest ones, is priceless, in the full sense of the word.


    Exactly. I still remember my pride after building the first headphone radio. And the second pride of the whole family after building a radio with a loudspeaker :-)

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    efi222 wrote:
    there is practically everything on the market now


    It should also be added that these are mostly Chinese products. A man building for himself will never use shit in his projects. A well-built module will survive those market creations packed in colorful blisters. It starts with normal quality laminate and ends with correct application (without saving on "optional" elements, e.g. decoupling capacitors, etc.).
  • #12 20901631
    żarówka rtęciowa
    Level 38  
    Posts: 3910
    Help: 364
    Rate: 391
    Hello

    yogi009 wrote:
    As for the educational value... I chose this project because it works a little differently than 555 and 4017. Not every young electronics engineer has encountered 74HC595, and here he has a good opportunity to analyze how this logic system works. And I consciously promote the lack of a microcontroller, I agree with you, we need to show that before the era of processors, quite intelligent devices were built.


    You can do without 555, just use a generator on bipolar transistors. In the retro version, you can use a counter, e.g.: 7490, and a BCD decoder, e.g.: 74145. This is how bells - music boxes were built about 30 years ago.
  • #13 20901711
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Posts: 14693
    Help: 848
    Rate: 2650
    żarówka rtęciowa wrote:
    You can do without 555, just use a generator on bipolar transistors. In the retro version, you can use a counter, e.g.: 7490, and a BCD decoder, e.g.: 74145. This is how bells - music boxes were built about 30 years ago.


    Of course. It`s a matter of choice.
  • #14 20903735
    ken-wawa
    Level 12  
    Posts: 920
    Help: 1
    Rate: 139
    Cool project! What program did you use to design the printed circuit board? Once upon a time, as a young boy, it was a lot :P I soldered things like that. But some time ago, as a reminder of the old times, something like this was created (and one more miracle, but I don`t have a video here, maybe there will be one someday).



  • #15 20904321
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Posts: 14693
    Help: 848
    Rate: 2650
    ken-wawa wrote:
    What program did you use to design the printed circuit board?


    KiCad :-)
  • #16 20904351
    ken-wawa
    Level 12  
    Posts: 920
    Help: 1
    Rate: 139
    I used to draw some simple circuits in KiCad, but I didn`t design the board itself. How do you rate the friendliness of the user interface and reducing the risk of errors? Is there any control?
  • #17 20904361
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Posts: 14693
    Help: 848
    Rate: 2650
    I switched to KiCad when Eagle was bought by Altium and the subscription was introduced. KiCad has a slightly different way of flowing information, there are simply further steps that need to be followed. Once you learn these simple rules, KiCad is quite decent for such small projects. Also the main thing is to change learned habits from previous applications.
  • #18 20904584
    ken-wawa
    Level 12  
    Posts: 920
    Help: 1
    Rate: 139
    I have to check it out when I have some free time... :)
  • #19 20923341
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    Posts: 3238
    Help: 393
    Rate: 900
    You did it quite nicely, I like it, I have it +.
    The system is simple and worth recommending to younger "electrode" students. Putting together a KIT is not the same as building something yourself, especially when it requires planning and etching the board from scratch.
    You could post a video of the system in operation, then perhaps it would attract the attention of beginners more.

    By the way:
    I would put a 10nF decoupling capacitor between the fifth pin of the NE555 and ground, it will prevent possible disruptions in the system.
  • #20 20923380
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Posts: 14693
    Help: 848
    Rate: 2650
    damian1115 wrote:
    You could post a video of the system in operation, then perhaps it would attract the attention of beginners more.


    The video is included in the title post.

    A decoupling capacitor is always useful, although here it is not a major issue. However, NE555 applications provide for such an element.
  • #21 20923410
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    Posts: 3238
    Help: 393
    Rate: 900
    Well, there is a link to the film, but I was thinking about your film. Because, you know, it would attract the attention of those reading this topic more. Then your topic would become more attractive and interesting.
  • #22 20923414
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Posts: 14693
    Help: 848
    Rate: 2650
    damian1115 wrote:
    Well, there is a link to the film, but I was thinking about your film. Because, you know, it would attract the attention of those reading this topic more. Then your topic would become more attractive and interesting.


    This is how my ring (quadruple) attached to this system shines, it is definitely my work.
  • #23 20927152
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    Posts: 3238
    Help: 393
    Rate: 900
    yogi009 wrote:
    this is definitely my performance.

    Now I agree with you, this film is more about the fact that it is your work.
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  • #24 20927233
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Posts: 14693
    Help: 848
    Rate: 2650
    The principle is very simple. We have 8 outputs that create the effect of flowing "droplets" of light. We can make 8 LED, 16 LED or 32 LED modules. Here we have the last version. 32 diodes are 4 sections with 8 outputs each. We connect LEDs no. 1, 9, 17 and 25 in parallel to the first output. Output no. 2 to the next ones and so on. You can also connect diodes in other systems, e.g. with 16 LEDs, we connect LEDs 1 and 16 to output 1, LEDs 2 and 15 to output 2, and so on. Here we are limited only by our imagination and the output current offered by the 74HC595 system.
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Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a mini-project involving the creation of a floating LED light effect, suitable for Christmas tree decorations. Participants express varying opinions on the merits of using pre-assembled kits versus designing and building circuits from scratch. The project utilizes the 74HC595 shift register to control multiple LEDs, creating a flowing light effect. Users share insights on PCB design using KiCad, the importance of hands-on experience in electronics, and the educational value of such projects. Suggestions for improving the design include using decoupling capacitors and exploring alternative circuit designs without microcontrollers.
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FAQ

TL;DR: This 8-output LED chaser drives up to 32 LEDs, and the author says, "quite intelligent devices were built" before microcontrollers. It shows beginners how to create a floating LED ring with NE555 timing, a 74HC595 shift register, a speed potentiometer, and a single 18650 Li-Ion cell, without complex startup work. [#20900987]

Why it matters: This project gives beginners a practical way to learn timing, shifting, PCB making, and LED wiring from scratch instead of only assembling a ready-made kit.

Approach Main parts Power noted in thread Best use Trade-off
74HC595 + NE555 74HC595, NE555, potentiometer 1× Li-Ion 18650 Training project with 8, 16, or 32 LEDs Requires custom wiring and PCB work
555 + 4017 Classic discrete LED chaser logic Not specified Familiar beginner alternative Less exposure to 74HC595 operation
Microcontroller-based chaser MCU not specified Not specified Flexible effects Teaches less pure logic basics
Ready-made 5 V kit Pre-made Christmas tree kit 5 V Fast assembly Less design freedom

Key insight: The core lesson is not the decoration itself. It is that an 8-output 74HC595 can generate a wider, "floating" light band and also teach real DIY electronics skills, from PCB transfer to non-microcontroller logic.

Quick Facts

  • The board exposes 8 cathode outputs plus a common-anode positive supply, and the ring can be built as 8-, 16-, or 32-LED sections. [#20927233]
  • The author powered the circuit from one Li-Ion 18650 cell and used a separate charge/discharge protection module costing about PLN 1-2. [#20899190]
  • The circular lamp template uses 5 mm holes drilled at evenly spaced points after dividing a drawn circle into 8, 16, or 32 sections. [#20899190]
  • The final PCB tool was KiCad, while the first training prototype was made in THT and the later version in SMD. [#20904321]
  • One practical improvement discussed was a 10 nF decoupling capacitor from NE555 pin 5 to ground to reduce possible disturbances. [#20923341]

How do you build a floating LED light effect with a 74HC595 and NE555 instead of using a microcontroller?

You build it with an NE555 clock, a 74HC595 for 8 sequential outputs, a potentiometer for speed, and an LED ring wired to those outputs. The board provides 8 cathodes and one common-anode positive rail, so the light grows and fades as grouped LEDs switch in sequence. The author chose this specifically to teach non-microcontroller logic and said such a circuit should not require complicated startup. [#20899190]

What is a floating LED effect, and how is it different from a simple running LED point?

A floating LED effect is a wider moving band of light, not a single bright dot. "Floating LED effect" is a lighting pattern that gradually lights a line of LEDs and then gradually extinguishes it, creating a broader moving glow rather than one sharply defined running point. The thread compares it to icicle lights, luxury-car indicators, and circular bicycle rear lights. [#20899190]

Why are current-limiting resistors unnecessary in this LED chaser when it is powered from a single Li-Ion 18650 cell?

In this design, the author states that LED resistors are unnecessary when the circuit runs from one Li-Ion 18650 cell. That claim is specific to this build, which uses a single cell and a common-anode ring connected to the 74HC595 outputs. If you change the supply arrangement, that assumption may no longer hold, so this answer applies only to the exact one-cell setup described. [#20899190]

How can you wire 8, 16, or 32 LEDs to the 8 outputs of a 74HC595 to create a circular 'droplet' light effect?

You map repeated LED positions onto the same 8 outputs. For 32 LEDs, use 4 sections of 8 and connect LEDs 1, 9, 17, and 25 in parallel to output 1, then 2, 10, 18, and 26 to output 2, and so on. For 16 LEDs, the thread gives a mirrored option: LEDs 1 and 16 go to output 1, LEDs 2 and 15 to output 2, etc. [#20927233]

What is a decoupling capacitor on the NE555 control pin, and why did one user recommend adding 10 nF between pin 5 and ground?

A decoupling capacitor on NE555 pin 5 helps reduce disturbances in the timing circuit. "Decoupling capacitor" is a passive component that shunts unwanted noise away from a sensitive node, improving stability; here it was suggested on the NE555 control pin, where small voltage disturbances can affect timing behavior. One user recommended 10 nF from pin 5 to ground, and the author agreed that NE555 applications provide for such an element. [#20923380]

How do you make a precise circular LED template with evenly spaced 5 mm holes for a ring-shaped lamp?

You make it with a paper layout and a drilled board template. 1. Draw a circle and divide it into 8, 16, or 32 equal parts. 2. Mark the LED positions and drill 5 mm holes through a board. 3. Use that drilled board as a repeatable jig for many identical LED rings. The author recommends this method because it quickly produces a clean, accurate circle. [#20899190]

Why would someone choose a 74HC595-based LED chaser over the classic 555 plus 4017 approach for a training project?

You choose it to teach a different logic block than the usual 555-plus-4017 beginner circuit. The author explicitly says many young electronics learners have not yet encountered the 74HC595, so this project gives them a concrete way to analyze how that logic device works. As the project author put it, “we need to show that before the era of processors, quite intelligent devices were built.” [#20900987]

What is solder mask, and when is board varnish enough protection for a homemade PCB prototype?

Solder mask is the durable insulating coating normally applied over copper traces, but board varnish can be enough for a short-run prototype. "Solder mask" is a protective PCB coating that insulates exposed copper, reduces accidental solder bridges, and improves durability; homemade prototypes may instead use board varnish when production-grade finish is unnecessary. The author skipped solder mask on the first THT training prototype and used varnish on the later SMD version for just 2-3 Christmas trees. [#20900987]

Which PCB design program was used for this project, and how beginner-friendly is KiCad for small DIY electronics boards?

The PCB was designed in KiCad, and the author rates it as quite decent for small projects once you learn its workflow. The key point is that KiCad has a different information flow, with further steps that must be followed in order. For simple single-sided DIY boards, the thread presents it as usable and practical rather than difficult. [#20904361]

How does KiCad compare with Eagle for designing simple single-sided PCBs after Eagle moved to a subscription model?

In this thread, KiCad replaced Eagle because Eagle moved to a subscription after being bought by Altium. The author switched platforms for that reason and says KiCad works well for small boards once you adapt your habits to its different flow. For simple DIY layouts, the comparison favors KiCad on accessibility and continuity of use. [#20904361]

What are the current limits of the 74HC595 when driving parallel LED sections, and how do they affect 8-, 16-, and 32-LED layouts?

The thread does not give a numeric current limit for the 74HC595, but it clearly says that output current is the factor that constrains LED grouping. Practically, 8 LEDs use one section, 16 LEDs can use paired positions, and 32 LEDs use 4 parallel sections tied to the same 8 outputs. The edge case is simple: if the grouped LEDs demand more current than the chip can supply, your chosen layout is no longer valid. [#20927233]

How should you adjust the potentiometer in a 74HC595 LED chaser to control the speed of the flowing light effect?

Adjust the potentiometer until the moving band looks smooth at the speed you want. The thread states that the potentiometer directly changes the effect speed, so it acts as the user control for the NE555-driven timing rate. In practice, turn it one way for a slower drift and the other for a faster sweep, then stop when the 8-step sequence looks visually continuous. [#20899190]

What are the advantages of building this LED chaser from scratch instead of assembling a ready-made 5 V Christmas tree LED kit?

Building it from scratch teaches design, PCB transfer, soldering, and wiring decisions that a 5 V kit does not. Several participants stress the satisfaction of making a complete device yourself, from etching the board to assembling SMD parts, rather than only putting together a ready-made product. The thread also notes greater creative freedom, including custom ring shapes and 8-, 16-, or 32-LED arrangements. [#20899202]

What alternative retro logic circuits could replace the NE555 and 74HC595, such as a transistor oscillator with 7490 and 74145?

A retro alternative is a bipolar-transistor oscillator feeding a 7490 counter and a 74145 BCD decoder. One participant says you can omit the 555 entirely and build the generator from bipolar transistors, then use 7490 and 74145 parts, similar to bell and music-box circuits from about 30 years ago. That makes the project even more logic-focused and less dependent on newer integrated approaches. [#20901631]

How do you troubleshoot a homemade iron-transfer PCB for an LED chaser if the effect is unstable or the board quality is only average?

Start by checking the basics the thread actually flags: timing stability, board protection, and PCB quality. 1. Add the recommended 10 nF capacitor from NE555 pin 5 to ground. 2. Inspect the iron-transfer traces and soldering, especially on the first THT prototype. 3. If the board will stay in service, protect it with electronic board varnish. The author openly says the iron-transfer result was “more than enough” rather than perfect, so average cosmetic quality does not automatically mean failure. [#20900987]
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