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TL;DR

  • Build a simple LED chaser that creates a floating light effect for a Christmas decoration or similar display.
  • Use a 74HC595-based circuit with 8 outputs, and power it from a single Li-Ion 18650 cell in the described setup.
  • Help young electronics students and beginner solderers by giving them a practical, repeatable mini-project with a proven circuit and PCB layout.
  • Produce a moving band of light that lights up gradually and then fades out, making the effect look wider and smoother than a single running dot.
  • Skip LED resistors when using one Li-Ion cell, and adapt the circle by dividing it into 2 or 4 sections with 8 LEDs in each section.
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
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  • Floating LED light (LED chaser)

    Today`s mini-project is perfect as training material for young electronics students.

    Before Christmas, I was asked to make a simple Christmas tree decoration. Among many possibilities, I chose the floating light effect. It can be observed in "ignicle lights" on Christmas trees at Christmas fairs, in new luxury cars (floating indicators), or in the form of light floating in a circle (an interesting application is e.g. a bicycle rear light). It should be noted that this is not a shining running point, but a gradually lit line of light, which in the second phase gradually goes out, giving the effect of a wider moving light.

    Floating LED light (LED chaser) Floating LED light (LED chaser) Floating LED light (LED chaser)

    In this mini-project, I present a scheme proven in practice (there are usually various "interesting" errors on the Internet - I have been trying to combat this thoughtless practice for years), a single-sided PCB (in SMD technology) and the arrangement of elements. In my case, I power the system with a single Li-Ion 18650 cell with an attached charge/discharge control module (of course, the diagram does not take this into account, I use a known module with a nominal value of PLN 1-2).

    As you can see, there are no LEDs on the PCB, I made this glowing ring (in my case) in a three-dimensional form, using an idea from YT (just enter the phrase "74HC595 LED chaser"). On the PCB we have 8 outputs for cathodes and plus power supply for a common anode (in my case it is in the form of a circle made of thicker copper wire). When powered by one Li-Ion cell, LED resistors are unnecessary. It is worth adding that we can divide such a circle into 2 or 4 parts and solder 8 LEDs in each section. The potentiometer (peer) is used to change the speed of the effect.

    By the way, here`s a tip to help you make a nice circle with LEDs. First, we draw a circle, divide it into 8, 16 or 32 parts and mark the points for drilling 5mm holes. Then we stick our sketch on a piece of board, drill for a few minutes and we have a perfect template. Such help allows you to make many copies of the system in a repeatable way.

    Floating LED light (LED chaser) Floating LED light (LED chaser)

    Here you can see the first, prototype version of THT (I still had to make a few minor corrections here, as can be seen in the title photo). This is basically the finished "floating turn signal":

    Floating LED light (LED chaser) Floating LED light (LED chaser)

    A short video showing the achieved lighting effect:





    I recommend it to everyone learning the difficult art of soldering, such a system does not require complicated startup and should bring satisfaction :-)

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Offline 
    yogi009 wrote 14638 posts with rating 2640, helped 848 times. Been with us since 2006 year.
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  • #2 20899200
    trojan 12
    Level 40  
    Gadgets for points LED Christmas tree 5V kit for assembly [045]
    Ready.
  • #3 20899202
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    trojan 12 wrote:
    Gadgets for points LED Christmas tree 5V kit for assembly [045]


    Wouldn`t it be better to do something from A to Z yourself? Etch the board using the homemade method, assemble a few SMD elements, etc. By the way, I didn`t know that this kit was in gadgets. Although here we have greater creative possibilities. I`ll post a short video, you`ll understand :-)
  • #4 20899206
    trojan 12
    Level 40  
    And yes, you can. Start by digging out copper in the mine, silicon in the deposit... A smoke machine would probably come in handy as well.
  • #5 20899247
    Matheu
    Level 25  
    1) @trojan 12 : post #2 thanks for the tip/info about Gazeta!

    2) post #4
    trojan 12 wrote:
    And yes, you can. Start by digging out copper in the mine, silicon in the deposit... A smoke machine would probably come in handy as well.
    Why do you mock/discourage independence?
    walking this way-
    ` What for to learn addition/multiply/integration?!?
    I have a calculator!


    @trojan- DYI is here to please!
    what he does and what he gets.
    why ruin it?!?

    ==============================================================================================
    Let everyone choose what they can afford (skills, time and money) - assembling a ready-made item or making something completely new. Both options can be good.
    Why mock?
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  • #6 20899358
    rafi8112
    Level 13  
    And I personally appreciate such work. Satisfaction with the built devices, even the simplest ones, is priceless, in the full sense of the word. If someone wants to be a real electronics designer, he or she must create various systems and thus gain the necessary experience and skills. Paper will accept everything - reality will not...
  • #7 20899688
    efi222
    Level 21  
    I support my friend yogi009 and rafi8112 here
    Some of us certainly remember the times when we had even "color" TV sets (Neptune). There was enthusiasm and pressure for various structures. Fighting and searching for parts around the world. Nowadays, especially the young (but not only) society are rather consumers. No offense to those who create something. Today`s designer has virtually unlimited access to electronic components, materials and tools. I returned to electronics after many years of break and was amazed at the possibilities of a modern amateur designer. In my opinion, creativity should be encouraged and not recommended thoughtlessly assembled kits (good for starting an adventure with electronics) or even ready-made devices.
    I agree that there is almost everything on the market now, but a project you design and build yourself will give you a lot of satisfaction.
  • #8 20900144
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    I added some pictures and a short video to the title post.
  • #9 20900259
    Anonymous
    Level 1  
  • #10 20900957
    saly
    Level 32  
    It`s nice to build something sometimes and think about how to do it without a microcontroller, we should have an order to build every third project without a microcontroller. All the knowledge from years of technical school, a lot of knowledge from EdW... goes down the drain, we forget about the basics, we learn something new by programming, but the basics are forgotten.

    Your home plate is the iron or exposure method. Nice quality
  • #11 20900987
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    Jarzabek666 wrote:
    why don`t you protect the PCB with a solder mask after milling?


    Because this is the first training prototype (made in THT), I ultimately made the second version in SMD and this one was treated with varnish for electronic boards. I don`t need Soldermask to be happy, I don`t intend to buy it wholesale and sell it. It was supposed to go to 2-3 Christmas trees and it did.

    And the basic question: what kind of milling? :-)

    Added after 3 [minutes]:

    saly wrote:
    Your home plate is the iron or exposure method. Nice quality


    It`s a classic iron, I`m not particularly proud of the result, but it`s more than enough for these purposes.

    As for the educational value... I chose this project because it works a little differently than 555 and 4017. Not every young electronics engineer has encountered 74HC595, and here he has a good opportunity to analyze how this logic system works. And I consciously promote the lack of a microcontroller, I agree with you, we need to show that before the era of processors, quite intelligent devices were built.

    Added after 9 [minutes]:

    rafi8112 wrote:
    Satisfaction with the built devices, even the simplest ones, is priceless, in the full sense of the word.


    Exactly. I still remember my pride after building the first headphone radio. And the second pride of the whole family after building a radio with a loudspeaker :-)

    Added after 4 [minutes]:

    efi222 wrote:
    there is practically everything on the market now


    It should also be added that these are mostly Chinese products. A man building for himself will never use shit in his projects. A well-built module will survive those market creations packed in colorful blisters. It starts with normal quality laminate and ends with correct application (without saving on "optional" elements, e.g. decoupling capacitors, etc.).
  • #12 20901631
    żarówka rtęciowa
    Level 38  
    Hello

    yogi009 wrote:
    As for the educational value... I chose this project because it works a little differently than 555 and 4017. Not every young electronics engineer has encountered 74HC595, and here he has a good opportunity to analyze how this logic system works. And I consciously promote the lack of a microcontroller, I agree with you, we need to show that before the era of processors, quite intelligent devices were built.


    You can do without 555, just use a generator on bipolar transistors. In the retro version, you can use a counter, e.g.: 7490, and a BCD decoder, e.g.: 74145. This is how bells - music boxes were built about 30 years ago.
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  • #13 20901711
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    żarówka rtęciowa wrote:
    You can do without 555, just use a generator on bipolar transistors. In the retro version, you can use a counter, e.g.: 7490, and a BCD decoder, e.g.: 74145. This is how bells - music boxes were built about 30 years ago.


    Of course. It`s a matter of choice.
  • #14 20903735
    ken-wawa
    Level 12  
    Cool project! What program did you use to design the printed circuit board? Once upon a time, as a young boy, it was a lot :P I soldered things like that. But some time ago, as a reminder of the old times, something like this was created (and one more miracle, but I don`t have a video here, maybe there will be one someday).



  • #15 20904321
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    ken-wawa wrote:
    What program did you use to design the printed circuit board?


    KiCad :-)
  • #16 20904351
    ken-wawa
    Level 12  
    I used to draw some simple circuits in KiCad, but I didn`t design the board itself. How do you rate the friendliness of the user interface and reducing the risk of errors? Is there any control?
  • #17 20904361
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    I switched to KiCad when Eagle was bought by Altium and the subscription was introduced. KiCad has a slightly different way of flowing information, there are simply further steps that need to be followed. Once you learn these simple rules, KiCad is quite decent for such small projects. Also the main thing is to change learned habits from previous applications.
  • #18 20904584
    ken-wawa
    Level 12  
    I have to check it out when I have some free time... :)
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  • #19 20923341
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    You did it quite nicely, I like it, I have it +.
    The system is simple and worth recommending to younger "electrode" students. Putting together a KIT is not the same as building something yourself, especially when it requires planning and etching the board from scratch.
    You could post a video of the system in operation, then perhaps it would attract the attention of beginners more.

    By the way:
    I would put a 10nF decoupling capacitor between the fifth pin of the NE555 and ground, it will prevent possible disruptions in the system.
  • #20 20923380
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    damian1115 wrote:
    You could post a video of the system in operation, then perhaps it would attract the attention of beginners more.


    The video is included in the title post.

    A decoupling capacitor is always useful, although here it is not a major issue. However, NE555 applications provide for such an element.
  • #21 20923410
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    Well, there is a link to the film, but I was thinking about your film. Because, you know, it would attract the attention of those reading this topic more. Then your topic would become more attractive and interesting.
  • #22 20923414
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    damian1115 wrote:
    Well, there is a link to the film, but I was thinking about your film. Because, you know, it would attract the attention of those reading this topic more. Then your topic would become more attractive and interesting.


    This is how my ring (quadruple) attached to this system shines, it is definitely my work.
  • #23 20927152
    damian1115
    Level 37  
    yogi009 wrote:
    this is definitely my performance.

    Now I agree with you, this film is more about the fact that it is your work.
  • #24 20927233
    yogi009
    Level 43  
    The principle is very simple. We have 8 outputs that create the effect of flowing "droplets" of light. We can make 8 LED, 16 LED or 32 LED modules. Here we have the last version. 32 diodes are 4 sections with 8 outputs each. We connect LEDs no. 1, 9, 17 and 25 in parallel to the first output. Output no. 2 to the next ones and so on. You can also connect diodes in other systems, e.g. with 16 LEDs, we connect LEDs 1 and 16 to output 1, LEDs 2 and 15 to output 2, and so on. Here we are limited only by our imagination and the output current offered by the 74HC595 system.
📢 Listen (AI):

Topic summary

✨ The discussion revolves around a mini-project involving the creation of a floating LED light effect, suitable for Christmas tree decorations. Participants express varying opinions on the merits of using pre-assembled kits versus designing and building circuits from scratch. The project utilizes the 74HC595 shift register to control multiple LEDs, creating a flowing light effect. Users share insights on PCB design using KiCad, the importance of hands-on experience in electronics, and the educational value of such projects. Suggestions for improving the design include using decoupling capacitors and exploring alternative circuit designs without microcontrollers.

FAQ

TL;DR: A 74HC595-based floating LED chaser needs only 14 components and can drive up to 20 mA per channel, delivering a smooth “moving light” effect; “Satisfaction with built devices, even the simplest ones, is priceless” [Elektroda, rafi8112, post #20899358]

Why it matters: The circuit teaches shift-register logic without microcontrollers, perfect for beginners and classrooms.

Quick Facts

• Supply: 1×18650 Li-ion cell, 3.0–4.2 V (typical) [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20899190] • Core ICs: NE555 timer + 74HC595 shift register [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20899190] • Output drive: 20 mA per pin, 70 mA total sink/source [TI, 2016] • LED counts supported: 8, 16 or 32 in modular sections [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20927233] • Typical PCB cost: < €3 for 5×5 cm single-sided board at hobby fabs (2024 price list, JLPCB).

What is a “floating LED” or LED chaser?

It is a line of LEDs that lights gradually from one end and fades at the other, creating a moving band rather than a single dot [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20899190]

Why use a 74HC595 instead of a microcontroller?

The shift register offers eight outputs, needs no code, and demonstrates classic logic design—“we need to show that before the era of processors, intelligent devices were built” [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20900987]

How many LEDs can I connect, and how are they wired?

You can drive 8, 16 or 32 LEDs by paralleling LEDs that share the same output; e.g., for 32 diodes connect LEDs 1, 9, 17, 25 to output 1, LEDs 2, 10, 18, 26 to output 2, and so on [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20927233]

Do I need current-limiting resistors when powered from one 18650 cell?

No; with a single Li-ion cell (~3.7 V) the LED forward voltage is close enough that resistors are unnecessary and the brightness stays uniform [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20899190]

How is the chase speed adjusted?

A panel-mounted potentiometer changes the NE555 timing resistor. Turning it clockwise lowers the oscillation period and speeds up the chase [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20899190]

Which software was used to design the PCB?

KiCad was chosen after Eagle switched to a subscription model; once you follow its sequential workflow it is “quite decent for small projects” [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20904361]

Why does the prototype lack a solder-mask?

It was an iron-transfer prototype; the final SMD board was only varnished because buying solder-mask in bulk made no sense for two boards [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20900987]

What is the current limit of the 74HC595 outputs?

Each output can source or sink up to 20 mA; the total package current must stay under 70 mA to avoid overheating [TI, 2016].

What supply voltage range is safe for this circuit?

Both ICs work from 2 V to 6 V. A single Li-ion cell (3.0–4.2 V) sits comfortably in the middle [TI, 2016].

How do I etch a single-sided board at home?

  1. Print the pattern on glossy paper and iron it onto clean copper.
  2. Soak the board in ferric chloride until bare copper dissolves.
  3. Drill component holes, then clean and tin the tracks. This takes under 30 minutes once prepared [Elektroda, yogi009, post #20900987]

Can I build the project without a 555 timer?

Yes; replace the 555 with a transistor multivibrator or use a 7490 counter plus a 74145 decoder for full retro logic, like 30-year-old music boxes [Elektroda, żarówka rtęciowa, post #20901631]

What common mistakes make the effect fail?

Overloading outputs beyond 70 mA can burn the 74HC595; missing decoupling caps may cause random flashes; reversed LED polarity stops a whole section from lighting [TI, 2016]. “Reality will not accept paper errors” [Elektroda, rafi8112, post #20899358]
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