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Miboxer Mi light LED bar controller FUT036 - version without WiFi (RF only), comparison

p.kaczmarek2 2040 7
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Treść została przetłumaczona polish » english Zobacz oryginalną wersję tematu
  • Box of Miboxer FUT036 LED strip controller.
    The FUT036 LED strip controller first appeared on our forum when a user asked about the possibility of changing the firmware of the CB3S module from inside, but did you know that the same controllers are available in a version based only on RF, without WiFi? Here is exactly such a controller I will present. The version discussed here will be single-colour, although versions are also available for different combinations of LED strips (FUT037, FUT038, etc). For the version shown here we paid only £40, not a lot, but this is the version without WiFi, for the versions with WiFi we pay about twice as much.

    Let's first mention older topics, where versions with both RF and WiFi connectivity, based on the CB3S WiFi module, were discussed:
    Miboxer FUT037W+ LED strip controller with TuyaMCU - communication protocol, OpenBeken
    Miboxer FUT036w and CB3s Issues: Flashing Firmware, WiFi Connectivity, and Button Control
    For versions with WiFi, the designation includes the letter W, e.g. FUT036W.

    Here I have a slightly different version:
    Packaging of MiBoxer FUT036 Single Color LED strip controller. LED controller FUT036 packaging with technical specifications
    Simply FUT036, according to the markings there is RF 2.4GHz here, but no WiFi.
    Contents:
    FUT036 LED Controller and user manual.
    Instructions from inside, description of the whole family, there are controllers for single-colour strips, for CW strips (shades of white), RGB, etc....:
    FUT036 LED controller on a workbench with a manual beside it. FUT036 LED strip controller with instructions on a wooden table.
    I guess there is nothing to wait for and you can look inside the controller. Just lift the cover:
    FUT036 LED strip controller with open casing showing the interior
    In this version we have two transistors - SLD40N03T. There is no heatsink, the copper spouted PCB itself is in its role.
    Interior of the LED controller FUT036 with two SLD40N03T transistors on the PCB.
    Parameters of the SLD40N03T, this is a MOSFET for 40V 30A with quite low resistance in the conducting state:
    Specifications of the SLD40N03T transistor on a datasheet. Let's remove the whole PCB:
    Miboxer LED strip controller PCB without WiFi
    Close-up of the interior of a MiBoxer LED controller without WiFi showcasing electronics.
    Close-up of the LED controller PCB Miboxer FUT036 with clearly visible electronic components. Close-up of the LED controller PCB showing integrated circuits. Close-up of the FUT036 LED controller PCB with electronic components. Close-up of the FUT036 LED controller PCB with visible electronic components.
    Obviously we have MCU PY32F003 F18P6 here, and separately there is a radio chip - A319N15.
    PY32F003 is a 32-bit ARM® Cortex®-M0+ with 20KB of flash memory and 3KB of SRAM, clocked to 24MHz. It has integrated peripherals such as I2C, SPI, USART, one 12-bit ADC and several timers. It operates on a voltage of 1.7~5.5V.
    There is quite a lot of free space on the PCB:
    Close-up of PCB with green screw terminal connector.

    Comparison with the WiFi version
    Pictures of the WiFi version are available at least in these topics:
    Non-iPhone LED strip controller Miboxer FUT037W+ with TuyaMCU - Communication Protocol, OpenBeken Miboxer FUT036w and CB3s Issues: Flashing Firmware, WiFi Connectivity, and Button Control The first thing that strikes me is that the WiFi version is somewhat of an "add-on" to what is without WiFi, i.e. The WiFi module is only responsible for communication, its PWMs are not used to control the LEDs, instead the chip uses the TuyaMCU protocol:
    Wiring diagram of the LED controller with a WiFi module.
    TuyaMCU protocol - communication between microcontroller and WiFi module That is, the WiFi version has as many as three separate chips - RF receiver, main MCU and WiFi module.
    When it comes to the main MCU, in the FUT037W+ discussed by me there was the Nuvoton MCU, and here it is Puya, but both of them have the same software (FUT037W+ only has it enriched with TuyaMCU communication).
    Otherwise there are minor differences, e.g. in the RGBCW version tested by me K50N03A transistors were used, and here SLD40N03T of similar parameters is used. The advantage of this single controller is that there are as many as two SLD40N03Ts for the one channel offered.

    Note when ordering! Finally, I still wanted to point out a minor not-so-positive practice that I see in shops. Some online shops advertise the version with only RF as "WiFi with a star" (after buying an adapter), quote:
    Quote:

    Controller MONO "Dimmer" 144W RF 2,4 GHz WiFi* Reputable company MI-Light FUT036
    - For single-colour strips - MONO, possibility to dim, brighten, switch on, switch off LED strips etc...
    - 2.4GHz radio communication with Remotes FUT091, FUT093, FUT006, FUT007, FUT092, and Panels B1/T1, B2/T2, B4,T4
    - Controllable via Phone (smartphone) or tablet via WiFi adapter Milight iBox

    I don't like it very much, because there is a difference with the "WiFi with a star requiring an adapter" version and the "RF + WiFi (Tuya)" version, and if one under-reads the description one might be a bit surprised.
    Technical specifications of the LED controller FUT036.
    Their "WiFi adapter" itself will be tested in a separate topic.

    Summary
    I've installed a few of these controllers and it's not so bad with the range but of course it didn't reach that magic 30 metres because of the walls, Now I'm only curious about the Zigbee version (the markings there end in Z), I wonder if there is also a TuyaMCU there but between the Zigbee module and the MCU?
    Otherwise I think it all depends on our needs, LED strip controllers with WiFi alone are a bit easier to free from the cloud, but do we necessarily need to free? Anyway, the version discussed here is without WiFi anyway, so this is just a side note.
    I certainly regret the lack of a potential button option. This is always a problem for me with this type of product. I know that as a rule such controllers are hidden in an inaccessible place but I would like to be able to connect one or two buttons (on/off and dimmer?) to be able to control the LEDs also directly, in case of e.g. lost/broken phone or remote control.... and in the version from this topic this is not possible, at most we can get this in the WiFi version if we change firmware to OBK and configure it accordingly.
    In summary, if I were to install Miboxers at my place, I would bet on the RF + WiFi version with the OBK uploaded, i.e. operating 100% locally, without the cloud, properly configured so that it would also support buttons directly on the device (you can use the free CB3S pins for this).

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    About Author
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
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    p.kaczmarek2 wrote 11927 posts with rating 9987, helped 572 times. Been with us since 2014 year.
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  • #2 21066957
    krzbor
    Level 27  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    now I'm only curious about the Zigbee version (the designations there end in Z), I wonder if there is also a TuyaMCU there but between the Zigbee module and the MCU?

    In your articles you have already described a whole lot of WiFi based devices. It would be nice if there is such a rich collection on ZigBee. WiFi is good if you want to connect a few devices in the house. However, if it is to be a smart home, then you need to switch to another technology - I think ZigBee is the best choice.
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  • #3 21066965
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    I might try to go a bit towards Zigbee-based devices, but there a little bit of nothing to do there. I don't know if it would attract users to our English-language site https://www.elektroda.com/ as effectively as analysing WiFi-based devices. In addition, I often have WiFi devices from readers (because I then redesign them), and Zigbee works out of the box...

    Nonetheless, I will certainly take your suggestion on board and try to introduce some Zigbee soon.
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  • #4 21067071
    krzbor
    Level 27  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    I might try to go a bit towards devices with Zigbee, but there a little bit of nothing to do.
    You need to approach the subject a little differently than WiFi and focus on operation and less on construction (although this too is valuable if the devices will be taken apart). Topics:
    - range and stability of operation (key information),
    - operation as a router,
    - operation with ZigBee2MQTT and HA (vendors always write about proprietary gateways e.g. TUYA),
    - additional, important functions and configuration options (beyond standard operation).
    I will give an example: you should choose blind controllers (aftermarket) for the whole house. Which model is the best?
  • #5 21067357
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    krzbor wrote:

    - operation with ZigBee2MQTT and HA (vendors always write about proprietary gateways e.g. TUYA)

    Yes yes, in total I already tested some devices with ZigBee2MQTT.

    krzbor wrote:

    - range and stability of operation (key information),

    How to substantively check the range? I always get the impression that wireless communication is quite capricious and depends very much on the environment.

    krzbor wrote:

    - additional relevant features and configuration options (beyond standard operation).

    As much as possible, this is worth documenting.
    krzbor wrote:
    Let me give you an example: you need to choose blind controllers (extra-low) for the whole house. Which model is the best?
    This is a bit worse, because to make any fair verdict you would have to test at least several of their different models. I can already see it more like testing them "incrementally" and drawing conclusions over time.


    @krzbor from what you write one gets the impression that you have some kind of Zigbee-based configuration. Maybe you would like to present it on the forum one day, in the form of a presentation of what devices, how many, where? Without giving sensitive information of course. I could help on PW with organising this, with editing.
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  • #6 21067683
    krzbor
    Level 27  
    I will only be implementing ZigBee in a newly built house. This is not a house for me, and the people living in it will not have such extensive knowledge of the software and the technologies used. So, before I decided on something like this, I decided to buy a coordinator (Sonoff ZBDongle-E) and connect it to the RPi3. In addition to this, I bought a few devices so that there was something to test (a button, a thermometer and a socket with router function). In general, the new house will use different technologies (Ethernet, WiFi and ZigBee). Their common denominator will be MQTT. Everyone is doing automation on HA. This is a great solution, but more than once someone described how after an upgrade or configuration change everything stopped working. So he figured out to use two RPi's (already version 4). On one will be Mosquito and Zigbee2MQTT and Apache and PHP. I have already described my PHP-based automation. It is with this technology that I want to handle the heating (taking the temperature via Z2M and controlling the floor heating valves). This Pi will start from an SD card and all logs will be on RAMDisk. In addition, after a stable period of operation I will prepare a clone of the SD card - if it dies it will be replaced. For the second RPi I want to connect an SSD in a USB adapter. On it will be the HA. It will control lighting and blinds and other elements if they prove necessary. As you can see I am facing the purchase of quite a few ZigBee devices - hence the dilemma of what to choose. I get a lot of my guidance from reviews on Allegro. It's a bit of an unreliable source, but with quite a few reviews, a pretty sensible picture of the quality and functionality of the devices emerges. The hardest thing to assess is range - here opinions are often quite extreme. Zigbee2MQTT has some interesting options for demonstrating signal strength and this goes both ways. If you are looking into testing this aspect, it is a good idea to establish a coordinator location and 2 points - through the walls and through the ceiling and walls. If the points are fixed you will also be able to compare the devices with each other.
  • #7 21069646
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    If you document these implementations (in a suitably anonymised way of course), this could make an interesting report.

    HA can be set up as a virtual machine. This increases the hardware requirements a bit, but makes backups and recovery in case of problems easier.

    It's with this SD card copy that can probably be improved a bit, manual backups are not that good....

    Are you betting on light switches that will also work when the HA is switched off, or as I sometimes see it, a separate switch and a separate actuator? I ask because for me a very important aspect is what happens in the event of a fault. For the same reason I don't like LED strip controllers that don't have buttons, and I always add such buttons after changing the firmware.

    I don't know if I would be able to test this range in any meaningful way, because as far as I know there are many more variables involved, although I could be wrong. It seems to me that the environment itself, the construction of the building, the networks of the neighbours, etc. also have an influence? The thing with fixed points for different devices is already something, but what about other WiFi networks, won't they interfere? E.g. a neighbour's router changing channels? Or a family that came to the neighbour's house with phones, tablets? I think Zigbee is also on 2.4GHz.... But I haven't researched it, I ask.
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  • #8 21069773
    krzbor
    Level 27  
    I have done tests for now, but when I implement it on the target Pi4 I will try to document it. The Pi with the SD card is just designed not to be upgraded. It's meant to be a kind of 'embedded system'. In principle it should be doable, but the problem could be the new ZigBee devices which will require a new version of Z2M.
    All the switches are planned to be ordinary (mechanical) - but there will be ZigBee controllers behind some (outdoor lighting, blinds). Contrary to what you might think, the house is not just for the occupants - guests are supposed to be comfortable in the house too and not wonder how to turn on the bathroom light. I have several sensor switches at home and find the classic ones (with large keys) much more convenient. In many places they can be operated without looking at the switch. Without HA everything is supposed to work, but each blind will have to be lowered separately. On the dedicated Pi I just wanted to realise the heating. It just can't "fail".
    Virtualisation is usually done on larger machines, and my assumption is to work without fans (both in the PC and the PSU). However, the RPi4 is available with more RAM. To consider doing virtualisation on the Pi.
    When it comes to frequency, unfortunately ZigBee overlaps with WiFi.

Topic summary

The discussion centers around the Miboxer Mi light LED bar controller FUT036, specifically its RF-only version without WiFi. Users compare this model to WiFi-enabled versions like FUT037 and FUT038, noting the price difference, with the RF version costing around £40. The conversation shifts towards the advantages of ZigBee technology over WiFi for smart home applications, emphasizing the need for stability, range, and compatibility with various devices. Participants express interest in documenting ZigBee implementations and testing their performance, while also discussing the importance of having mechanical switches for user convenience in smart home setups.
Summary generated by the language model.
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