Bosch Condenser Tumble Dryer: Comparing WTW85460PL Heat Pump Model and Conventional Options

I did such a construction in the wardrobe, but instead of a connector I gave a shelf made of a furniture board, then you can easily pull out the washing machine itself. At the back, the shelf had a gap of 10 cm, air inlets were drilled at the bottom as in the bathroom door, at the top - the same.

I wonder if I could have a photo, please? how did you solve it?
Will the furniture board shelf hold the dryer and clothes?

Thank you to all the predecessors for the content of the topic.
How many others I am considering buying with a pump or not. In my case, the point is that the dryer will be 2.2x2.2 m in a dark bathroom. I also preferred to keep the door closed because of the noise and they are also in the aisle. Wouldn't that be too small a room for a dryer without a pump? I will heat up all the air quickly and the drying efficiency will drop ... There is, of course, ventilation in the bathroom, but it probably won't help too much

upd. Oh, and how much the dryer weighs, something I do not see this information in the descriptions. Let's say BOSCH WTW85461PL ...

Weight with packaging approx. 60 kg - this is what it says on the page.

My kitchen is 3 m by 3 m without a heat pump. And I have to open the window such a stuffy, warm, dry air. I would definitely not put in a 2m by 2m bathroom. The side plate is about 60 degrees (cotton program), the top is slightly summer. This can be reduced if you dry on synthetics and in a delicate program. The temperature is much lower. In winter, I do not have to turn on the radiators in the kitchen and warm in the hall. I was also going to put 2m by 2m on the washing machine in the bathroom. For small rooms only with heat pump. Note that the dryer works more effectively to draw in cold air, with warm air it will either run longer or switch off. In the instruction it is written what the minimum outside temperature is. It can be warmer in models with a heat pump. Only I did not want to use a heat pump and play the rinsing of lint from clothes, in the one without a pump I take out the cooler and rinse it for the shower. I have no mud, nothing is pouring on me like in these movies from the thread

cakp wrote:

My kitchen is 3 m by 3 m without a heat pump. And I have to open the window such a stuffy, warm, dry air. I would definitely not put in a 2m by 2m bathroom. The side plate is about 60 degrees (cotton program), the top is slightly summer. This can be reduced if you dry on synthetics and in a delicate program. The temperature is much lower. In winter, I do not have to turn on the radiators in the kitchen and warm in the hall. I was also going to put 2m by 2m on the washing machine in the bathroom. For small rooms only with heat pump. Note that the dryer works more effectively to draw in cold air, with warm air it will either run longer or switch off. In the instruction it is written what the minimum outside temperature is. It can be warmer in models with a heat pump. Only I did not want to use a heat pump and play the rinsing of lint from clothes, in the one without a pump I take out the cooler and rinse it for the shower. I have no mud, nothing is pouring on me like in these movies from the thread

I guess I must have missed something, in my Miele with the heat pump no clogs are spewed out - wet laundry is put in, turned on and taken out dry, usually after an hour. the cuff filter is on the lower edge of the charging hole and, after the cycle is complete, there may be a handful of pick up in it, which is very easy. The splash filter is sucked in on the front bottom left (very dense sponge) and once in a few months a light will light up suggesting vacuuming it, and that's it. the dryer is standing in a niche in the cool corridor and I think she is very happy there. its work has no influence on the room temperature.

Sure, if he has a Miele dryer, there is also a washing machine from the same company and the spin is at 1600 revolutions.

https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2918741-30.html#15327943 I meant the videos from post 33 with a heat exchanger

yanes wrote:

Sure, if he has a Miele dryer, there is also a washing machine from the same company and the spin is at 1600 revolutions.

no, I'm not so wasteful - LG direct drive washing machine from medium polka-, has a spin of 1400, but usually spins at 1000 or less. an hour to dry such a usual load of cotton / a mix of 5 kg. three sets of bedding are dried for about two hours on Eco Extra dry - for porownain; you wash two and a half hours per 60 'on some eco cycle with additional rinsing.

I haven't logged in to the forum for a few years, but due to the fact that I finally bought a dryer (after reading this thread, among others) I am posting some photos and facts:

DPY 8506:
Cotton Extra Dry 3 program: 20h
I threw in 3 pillowcases 2x2m each and two medium spun towels 1000. Consumption 1.57kWh x0.60 PLN = 0.97 PLN.

I extended the Daily 1: 40h program to 1:50h, and the dryer shortened it by 0: 30h anyway. Load of 5 shirts centrifuged 800. 0.42kWh x0.60 PLN = 0.25 PLN

I did not start the shirts program because the description only mentions 2 items, probably because it lasts 0:30 hours.

In the pictures in the attachment, the wattmeter sums up consumption and costs.

PS Please bear with me I wrote from the phone.

Padre7 wrote:

I haven't logged in to the forum for a few years, but due to the fact that I finally bought a dryer (after reading this thread, among others) I am posting some photos and facts:

DPY 8506:
Cotton Extra Dry 3 program: 20h
I threw in 3 pillowcases 2x2m each and two medium spun towels 1000. Consumption 1.57kWh x0.60 PLN = 0.97 PLN.

Summarizing and comparing to my old Gorenje without a 2100 watt pump:
- consumes approx. 2x less electricity
- it dries clearly more than 2x longer than mine with a similar load and 800 revolutions
- It costs PLN 800-1800 more than the standard one currently available
- will pay off after at least 600 large-load dryings, if, of course, it survives

Of course, you can discuss the general work culture (influence on room temperature and humidity, noise, etc.). I am puzzled by the belief that heat pump dryers do not damage clothes. However, here the filter also needs to be cleaned of what we have blown out of the fabrics.

Borutka wrote:

Padre7 wrote:

I haven't logged in to the forum for a few years, but due to the fact that I finally bought a dryer (after reading this thread, among others) I am posting some photos and facts:

DPY 8506:
Cotton Extra Dry 3 program: 20h
I threw in 3 pillowcases 2x2m each and two medium spun towels 1000. Consumption 1.57kWh x0.60 PLN = 0.97 PLN.

Summarizing and comparing to my old Gorenje without a 2100 watt pump:
- consumes approx. 2x less electricity
- it dries clearly more than 2x longer than mine with a similar load and 800 revolutions
- It costs PLN 800-1800 more than the standard one currently available
- will pay off after at least 600 large-load dryings, if, of course, it survives

Of course, you can discuss the general work culture (influence on room temperature and humidity, noise, etc.). However, I am surprised to believe that heat pump dryers do not damage clothes. However, here the filter also needs to be cleaned of what was blown out of the load.

I do not know exactly what your Gorenje dryer model is, but I will compare it to the popular and still present on the market, e.g. WTG86400PL
- 4.61 kWh x0.6 PLN = 2.76 PLN in this case 3x more electricity,
- 2: 06h = 3: 20h in this case x1.5 longer,
- this model is the cheapest PLN 1600, A +++ PLN 2300 = PLN 700 cheaper
- 390 drying cycles.

I have no experience in drying yet and I do not know how much we will dry, I also do not know how often a large family would use the dryer. But 390 cycles of difference in profitability is not a "cosmos", maybe I'm wrong, it will turn out.

As for the lifetime of the equipment, you are probably right, but today's dryers with heaters do definitely of simpler design, they are manufactured according to the principle of "life planning" (just like other devices). Although in theory I will confirm once again that you are right that the mere complexity of building a heat pump is definitely not conducive to its service life. I will add, however, that if someone is unlucky, the "heater" will fall faster than with the pump.

I absolutely do not. that heat pump dryer is better . Everyone should think about the above posts for themselves and make a decision as they see fit.

The most important thing is that everyone is satisfied with their choice.

God forbid, I did not want to discredit your choice ... just a dry comparison on the subject of "regular or pump dryer". I follow this thread myself, because I want to buy a new one and I am also wondering if it is worth adding.
As for the power consumption ... I don't have a wattmeter. I multiplied the rated power by the typical operating time with this load and assuming that the maximum power consumption is continuous. I was not much wrong, because I have my hair dryer for 14 years and I know it really well .

Padre7 wrote:

- 4.61 kWh x0.6 PLN = 2.76 PLN in this case 3x more electricity,

Obviously, this dryer could be more powerful (not checked). However, the ways in which manufacturers calculate their electricity consumption can be quite abstract.
You just gave specific figures (which, however, will probably not coincide with the manufacturer's declaration of annual consumption), and I made a "loose" comparison with my model.
In any case, enjoy using your dryer

Borutka wrote:

God forbid, I did not want to discredit your choice ... just a dry comparison on the subject of "regular or pump dryer".
As for the power consumption ... I don't have a wattmeter. I multiplied the rated power by the typical operating time with this load and assuming that the maximum power consumption is continuous. I was not much wrong, because I have my hair dryer for 14 years and I know it really well .

Padre7 wrote:

- 4.61 kWh x0.6 PLN = 2.76 PLN in this case 3x more electricity,

Obviously, this dryer could be more powerful (not checked). However, the ways in which manufacturers calculate their electricity consumption can be quite abstract.
You just gave specific figures (which, however, will probably not coincide with the manufacturer's declaration of annual consumption), and I made a "loose" comparison with my model.
In any case, enjoy using your dryer

But I didn't even take it that way. I treat it as a cultural exchange of views. I can tell you that the declared "connection power" in this case has not yet reached the 800W and probably will not be achieved, like most of the devices I have dealt with. Time will tell. 14 years is a great result, the new one will not survive that much - unfortunately. As for the electricity consumption I have given, it is higher, because I have given the consumption from a longer program of 3: 20h. And the standard 392/2012 counts according to another program: "Wardrobe Cotton" which is shorter. The standard stipulates 160 cycles per year with full and partial loading, we are rather unable to calculate whether it is in line with the declaration. As I test it, I will post my observations here.

[quote = "Padre7"]

Borutka wrote:

Padre7 wrote:

I haven't logged in to the forum for a few years, but due to the fact that I finally bought a dryer (after reading this thread, among others) I am posting some photos and facts:

DPY 8506:
Cotton Extra Dry 3 program: 20h
I threw in 3 pillowcases 2x2m each and two medium spun towels 1000. Consumption 1.57kWh x0.60 PLN = 0.97 PLN.

I do not know exactly what your Gorenje dryer model is, but I will compare it to the popular and still present on the market, e.g. WTG86400PL
- 4.61 kWh x0.6 PLN = 2.76 PLN in this case 3x more electricity,


.

I am defending WTG86400PL because I have this model and I use an identical meter. The value of 4.61kWh taken from the instruction is not reflected in reality because it is some max value. Drying 6 kg of items of cotton in the cupboard, synthetics in the cupboard. Time about 1h-1.20min, consumption 08-1.2Kwh. The dryer has a moisture sensor and even if you give me the drying time from the instructions it will be overstated. The times of 2h-2.5h were obtained while drying the feather pillow. The programs in the style of extra dry cotton need to be watched because sometimes it dries to a chip, if it is Thsirt, it is too high a program, if it is flannel bedding, the program is just right because it is a thick material.

A little update. BOSCH WTG86400PL
Consumption for the entire month of February for 3 people
-14.67 kWh.
- Total working time 10:30.

The most common programs
-Synthetics for ironing, for the wardrobe (jeans, shirts, tshirt, bed linen)
-Cotton extra dry (towels, underwear etc.)

@cakp So the monthly cost of using a dryer without a heat pump at a colleague's is about PLN 10 per month. PLN 120 per year. As for me, this is also confirmed by my measurements, as well as the conclusion that usually the difference in the purchase price (for a heat pump dryer) will be reimbursed only after the submitted warranty has expired. This is just a return, and where is the profit? Especially since drying takes much less time when the dryer does not have a heat pump.

It would also be necessary to count how much electricity was consumed by the iron during the month when there was no dryer (for 3 people, ironing towels, t-shirts, jeans, blouses, bedding, etc.) + time wasted on it. Ironing was done after each wash. Currently, ironing is done once a week for 10 minutes, only my shirts and the other half's shirts for work. A lot of things just go straight to the closet. Many things after the dryer do not require ironing. Rather, no one will want to return to measurements with an iron without a dryer . From practice, drying times and kWh consumption according to the manufacturer's instructions are not achievable for me, the dryer turns off much faster. Let's say an average of 40 minutes-1 hour. I have the impression that the dryer has higher temperatures on cotton programs

In summer, you can put a wardrobe pipe across the balcony and hang things on hangers immediately after washing. They will dry out and straighten up on their own.

I gave the measurements from a washing machine with a max 1000 revolutions of 6 kg of load. Used 1000 rpm.
I do not know what clothes after 1600 look like, I shoot that they are drier and wrinkled. The dryer may not straighten it so nicely because the sensor will turn off the drum after a while, indicating "dry" - if I
I didn't reach 4.6 even when I was drying the feather pillows out of the washing machine. The pillows were puffed out of the dumped ones, the drying time was long, about 3 hours, but it was in January.

Hi,

Really these few zlotys are making you such a difference? This device seemed to me that I buy it not because it is necessary (except for a few cases when it is really impossible to live without it) and because we want to have more time for ourselves - the whole procedure of taking the laundry out of the washing machine, taking out somewhere to hang it, thinking about What will the weather be like after washing, always something will fall to the ground or there are too few hairpins etc etc and then, at the very end, when everything is almost dry, it starts to rain ... someone has very dry air, then this liter or two of each wash is able to improve the situation ...

as a peasant reason, a dryer with a heat pump cannot cost more in operation than dryers without a start, it heats up practically only once (if it has a good exchanger) so the consumption on short programs may be a little higher, but therefore most (I assume) has eco programs that are longer, agree, but it does not prevent them from costing much less.

I think that more important than the type is whether the device has a moisture sensor, the possibility of connecting to a sewage system (ventilation in the case of devices with exhaust), easy access to the filter, a large loading opening and programs that are useful. The noise level can be important depending on where the dryer is placed.

I know, the purchase cost remains, and possible repairs in the future, but there is a lot of products on the market and I think that you can find every pocket, and if you look well, you can find very good offers. does it make sense to buy the cheapest? probably not. does it make sense to buy the most expensive? maybe, but it's probably better to aim in the middle. The bells and whistles are ok, but how many of them are really important?

everything will break down sometime, the times of household appliances operating for centuries have passed forever, and the costs of servicing after the warranty are so high that if you cannot do diagnostics and repairs yourself, it may be more profitable to replace them with new ones.

good luck with your choice ...

I came here by accident, but at the end it's a cool point - in my opinion, the dryers are completely REQUIRED. In apartments it is usually too dry and a little hanging laundry improves the situation - not for long, but still.
On the other hand, if this saving time is so important for someone, it is even greater in ironing - so why not use the laundry services that will not only wash but also iron clothes for us? You can order such a service - you can also hire a housekeeper who will do everything for us - not only washing ...

You know, not everyone lives in a dry climate that requires additional moistening ... as for saving time and ironing, it never irons things after taking them out of the dryer - anything that can wrinkle is washed and dried on programs that prevent this, and shirts it depends, how do i feel like doing it myself, how i don't want to take it to the laundry
drying laundry outdoors is senseless in a big city with high air pollution, you can simply not work - it will be even faster and cheaper ...
I agree that it is not a necessary device, but it is a very useful device ...

I am reading this thread and I am already quite dumb. I am standing in front of the option of inserting a 6m bathroom washer-dryer in a new building. There is rather a small chance that I will connect it (or a dryer) to the extractor hood, so whatever the device does not generate (whether only heat or humid air), it will all fall out to the bathroom. The problem is that in the current apartment we had a lot of problems because the radiator was always on in winter, which generated a lot of stuffiness and a problem with humidity. Unfortunately, the bathroom was open all the time, I am not going to sit with the bathroom door open this time, but I will also not remodel the entire bathroom in order to pull the extractor for the dryer.

I don't see a problem with the device generating heat, but:
- I have serious concerns about buying 2 devices separately, because, however, it is not a hair dryer, to hide it and forget it, I use a washer-dryer,
- I was interested in the model: WVH30542EU or for example: WD90J6A10AX, but I have the impression that these are 2 completely different technologies,
- what to consider when buying equipment?

For example, I appreciate my Samsung (washing machine) for the possibility of replacing the bearings. But I also like Bosch gear. I haven't seen the eye service for 6-9 years. But I don't have a dryer or a washer-dryer. I am interested in electricity consumption on average, if it is water. However, I am more concerned not to get into work for 1000 zlotys in a moment. My wife and I want to say goodbye to the fold-out dryer, it is known that we will probably use it someday for heavier things, but in everyday washing I would like to achieve laundry ready to be hidden in the wardrobe.

Budget up to PLN 3,500

Hello,

I had no contact with these models, but I had two washer dryers - one hotpoint from the aquarius series - there was even enough, and one indesit from the lunar series - I still have nightmares - at the end of life, the washing machine was full of water, there was so-called material fatigue and that funny plastic clip that was supposed to hold the door broke, the whole apartment was flooded ...

a washer dryer is the final solution - as a washing machine it will work, but when we go to drying it turns out that the options are either few or even less. and the most important thing is that the washing machine has a load capacity of 9 kg - like the samsung from the description, it does not mean that the dryer also has such a load capacity. as if samsung wrote that the dryer is 6 kg (and here a small font - this refers to dry laundry, so if you throw 6 kg of dry clothes, it is likely that you will dry them too), I am pessimistic, and as I see the washer dryer, I would be friends with the dryer half the load of the washing machine ... these washer-dryers that I had were condensing, i.e. the water condensed and was pumped out, but the room was heating up - an additional attraction in indesit was the smell of melting rubber that caused tearing ...

if you are satisfied with the washing machine you have, then maybe it's better to leave it and buy a better dryer and put it all in the floor (the washing machine will have to be downstairs) - if you want to stuff it on 6m2 and you already have a washing machine there, making a reasonable rack should not be too expensive.

My wife deals with the detailed segregation of clothes, so it is not a problem that we will remove some of the laundry or ... wash less than the washing machine's capacity is assumed. So I completely skipped this item. But you know, if there is something to everything, it sucks, although friends have a Samsung P / S 2in1 and, surprisingly, everything goes to the closet. Generally, I made a "technical" drawing and I don't care what solution I decide on, whether 2 separate or 2 in one.

So the 100-point questions:

1.exhaust dryers are set for air drying, so here I probably have 2 options, as I understand it: either let the humid air flow into the bathroom, or build an exhaust installation to the chimney?
2, do dryers with and without heat pump (condensing) also need exhaust to the chimney or is there always exhaust to the bathroom?
3. Which option with or without a pump will generate less moisture outside, i.e. for the bathroom
4. aside from the power consumption which is more efficient, is it really with the pump? is the pump only intended to reduce water and electricity consumption?

if the above is true, then I am looking for a compromise between efficiency (I want to stuff clothes into the wardrobe and not necessarily iron them, time does not matter) and reliability. Electricity consumption plays a secondary role, if it is water consumption.

The dryer blows dry air, all the water vapor is precipitated on the condenser. With an ordinary dryer, we have free heat, with a heat pump we have less power consumption and you can use the washing machine and dryer at the same time.

Damaran wrote:

My wife deals with the detailed segregation of clothes, so it is not a problem that we will remove some of the laundry or ... wash less than the washing machine's capacity is assumed. So I completely skipped this item. But you know, if there is something to everything, it sucks, although friends have a Samsung P / S 2in1 and, surprisingly, everything goes to the closet. Generally, I made a "technical" drawing and I don't care what solution I decide on, whether 2 separate or 2 in one.

So the 100-point questions:

1.exhaust dryers are set for air drying, so here I probably have 2 options, as I understand it: either let the humid air flow into the bathroom, or build an exhaust installation to the chimney?
2, do dryers with and without heat pump (condensing) also need exhaust to the chimney or is there always exhaust to the bathroom?
3. Which option with or without a pump will generate less moisture outside, i.e. for the bathroom
4. aside from the power consumption which is more efficient, is it really with the pump? is the pump only intended to reduce water and electricity consumption?

if the above is true, then I am looking for a compromise between efficiency (I want to stuff clothes into the wardrobe and not necessarily iron them, time does not matter) and reliability. Electricity consumption plays a secondary role, if it is water consumption.

Hello,

all dryers, regardless of the type of air drought, the question of how the air heats up and something happens to it later. So as for point 1, none of the options given is actually - you can attach the outlet from the dryer to the chimney - I assume that the chimney is made of brick or similar material, so if you hit it with warm, humid air, you will definitely not be happy, but when you do this warm air cools down and the moisture condenses on the inside of the chimney, gravity will ensure that it flows downwards ... you rather don't want the outlet directly into the bathroom, unless you like a tropical climate, because it will be hot and humid :)

point 2 - dryers with a heat pump do not need exhaust air, they have a closed circuit - they do not change the humidity or temperature of the room and, depending on the model, they can be attached to the sewage system.

point 3- see point 2 :)

point 4- here I must refer you to the beginning of this topic, read it again these devices are manufactured to meet some standard - so theoretically they should be equal, but how can you expect some are more equal than others ...

the key factor over which manufacturers have no control is the end user - if the user reads, understands and accepts what the manufacturer recommended in the manual, there is a good chance that everyone will be satisfied - my Miele dryer has a lot of poor and average reviews, it was more expensive than cheaper, but I decided on it anyway because my ex has an identical Miele for years and it works perfectly - as I can see, people complain because when towels and underwear dry at the same time, something is not completely dry or something too dry, the hands are dropping - these devices have moisture sensors and if they are not properly charged or overcharged, then you cannot expect perfect results. So if you do not have a problem with light segregation, everything will be okay, washing towels with other things is not the smartest either.

good luck.