Bosch Condenser Tumble Dryer: Comparing WTW85460PL Heat Pump Model and Conventional Options

Taking into account the positive experience with the SAMSUNG washing machine and the fact that they are unscrewed, and in fact they are not glued (if it matters when replacing the bearings), because if I replace the bearings it will turn out, I decided to rely on Samsung at this point. Samsung DV90M6200CW (dryer) and AddWash WW70K5410UW (washing machine). It will not be cheap, but I bet on the benefits of drums load capacity and drying efficiency. I take the risk on myself, because as I wrote, I saw that some of them complained about, for example, the stuffiness in the bathroom or the spitting out of humidity outside. I can't afford it, because the bathroom is not a laundry room or a sauna. I will be moving in this direction and slowly analyzing these products. I have until June to choose my equipment, so things may still change.

I don't know what's going on with these bearings? why is it so important that they could be replaced? has it ever happened to you? The only thing I have ever replaced in the old hot point are the brushes - if the washing machine is level and not loaded above the legal load capacity for a given program and material, the bearings are one of the last things that I would worry about ... my LG has a direct drive with a warranty on 10 years, so if you are so worried about these bearings, maybe look at washing machines from direct drive :)

this add wash is a good thing, each washing machine currently (I assume) has a pause button that allows you to add something that you forgot - if the program and the water level allow it, but I take into account that samsung can pour water above the bottom edge of the loading opening ...

the dryer you mentioned looks ok on paper It looks ok too, but it's a matter of taste. personally for this money I would prefer to grind - all the goodies and lights in samsung have no practical use - I know that each is different, but I'm actually only interested in how much is left until the end of the program - and any melodies announcing this news - pip pip I am able accept. illuminated drum as much as possible ...

Added after 12 [hours]:

here is an example of devices that meet my requirements - ease of use, low power consumption, and hope that I will not have to worry about faults for the next 5 years.

this is not A / V equipment, the only thing it must have are the functions that are needed - I like crazy RTV but in household appliances I value simplicity - my 7-9 years old children can do their own laundry and dry them, a bomb for me ...

[quote = "Damaran"]
- I have serious concerns about buying 2 devices separately, because, however, it is not a hair dryer, to hide it and forget it, I use a washer-dryer,
- / quote]

A washer-dryer is not the same as a separate washing machine and dryer. You won't dry it
I turn mine on and I forget because it will turn off by itself.
The programmer will fall faster like the bearings I do not know if the warranty covers naturally wearing parts, you have to read. Adwash is a good thing and you sort your laundry, if you forget to throw it in, it will go with the next wash. In the middle of the wash, it is not worth adding anything because it will not be washed like things that grind from the beginning. I don't know, I would let it go and look more for practical solutions, e.g. the volume of spinning and washing. or alternating movements of the drum during the washing, for better washing. If you are already looking, avoid these touch control panels in household appliances, it is better refined in the phone. In my bosch I always have to press 2 3x somehow, such a touch held for 1.5 seconds is hard to get used to

Yesterday I did a condenser and heat pump dryer test
1. BOSCH Ekologixx 7S with heat pump
2. Miele T7744C

One wash was dried on the most dry programs for extra dry cotton

and it went out

1. Bosch consumed 1.749 KW, dried 2.34h and maximum consumption 905W
2. Miele 1.418 KW 56 minutes 3348w

I don't know if I'm reading something wrong ?? because it looks like a heat pump dryer uses more electricity?

Plus Bosch is that you don't smell dried laundry at all and I don't spend any heat
Miele's water tanks are less than half the amount

I bought Bosch due to the fact that it should be more economical now I have a dilemma which to leave ??

Just spinning the drum for 1:38 could make the difference, so 0.331 kWh gives 200W

All I understand is that I thought that the PC dryer should be more economical and it turns out that it is not economical :(

if you convert it to power consumption, it actually is
If you divide it into hours, it is too

And it really isn't :(

I will not mention what I read that it is more economical by -50%, it should download a 0.8 kWh mac

you see, it's just like the fuel consumption stated by the manufacturers. tests carried out under strictly defined conditions that have nothing to do with reality ...

this Miele is energy class B, and as a model from 10 years ago it is simply less technologically advanced than newer PC equipment. I do not want to look for instructions, but I assume that this model has an eco (Cotton Large) cycle - the drying time is much longer, but the energy consumption is lower than in the normal cycle. from what I can see it has a moisture sensor and this also affects the time and cost of the cycle. if you mix things made of fabrics of different thickness, the cycle begins to lengthen ...

Previously I had an ordinary Siemens dryer, now I have a Simens with a heat pump. I can write because I am sure that there are savings, I have about 30% less energy demand.

Everything is correct Bosch is more economical in theory because the maximum power consumption it consumed is only 900w and Miele consumed 3300w and so it consumes little as it consumes more in general :(

But in practice, for the same washing cartridge, Miele took 1400w and Bosch 1700w and this worries me

I'm not even talking about the drying time, which is longer by 1.5 hours

The only plus is that it does not feel drying at all and does not give off heat

Or maybe it is something wrong, has too little factor or something else ??

This Bosch is an old A + model, so the differences will not be so spectacular. In addition, of course, its efficiency may be deteriorated due to long use.

puniek71 wrote:

The only plus is that it does not feel drying at all and does not give off heat

It just seems like that.
It's just that the heater dryer heats up much longer and shorter, so you can feel this warmth in the room.
The heat pump dryer heats with less power, but longer, so you do not feel the room heating up, because the heat will have time to disperse.

It's not like that. the PC dryer has a closed air circulation, so nothing comes out of it and therefore the room temperature and humidity in this room remain the same. all the rest of the dryers have to blow out warm and humid air somewhere, which is why they are less efficient and more expensive to use. from the condensation also hot and humid air flows out - less than from the usual, but much more than from the PC ...

Will Nottellyou wrote:

It's not like that. the PC dryer has a closed air circulation, so nothing comes out of it and therefore the room temperature and humidity in this room remain the same. all the rest of the dryers have to blow out warm and humid air somewhere, which is why they are less efficient and more expensive to use. from the condensation also hot and humid air flows out - less than from the usual, but much more than from the PC ...

New Physics?
Whenever a device draws power, it must radiate it.

As the dryer does not give off power in the form of any energy - it does not emit radiation, does not generate mechanical work, does not accumulate energy, so only heat is left.
The phase transitions that take place inside do not consume energy - the condensed water is still condensed, only in the tank, not on the laundry.
The housing gets warm, there are vents and there is a fan to cool the interior.
The energy balance must be right. Only the powers of the heat fluxes and their flow times are different.

I assure you that if you put such a dryer in a styrofoam box, it would not work for a long time - it would turn off from overheating.

we are not talking about a nuclear reactor, but about a home appliance. as for this box, if the PC dryer was to access air from the room, and the drain to the sewage system was connected, it may be closed in what you would like to close - if you block the air inlet then yes, it will turn off and call for cleaning filter.

Will Nottellyou wrote:

we are not talking about a nuclear reactor, but about a home appliance. as for this box, if the PC dryer was to access air from the room, and the drain to the sewage system was connected, it may be closed in what you would like to close - if you block the air inlet then yes, it will turn off and call for cleaning filter.

The atomic reactor and the dryer follow the same laws of physics.
This is a video I made in person:


All energy that comes from the network must be dissipated into the environment as heat.
Neither hose will change this, because there is not enough water to dissipate this amount of heat.

ok, because I see that it will not be possible without teaching aids. https://youtu.be/zk7LnkJPQdA

my grinds are standing in a corridor which is always 18 degrees and the humidity is below 55% - regardless of the season. the dryer does not change the temperature or humidity in the room ...

Will Nottellyou wrote:

ok, because I see that it will not be possible without teaching aids. https://youtu.be/zk7LnkJPQdA

my grinds are standing in a corridor which is always 18 degrees and the humidity is below 55% - regardless of the season. the dryer does not change the temperature or humidity in the room ...

Do you learn from advertising?
Interesting source, but quite simplified by design.
Please write what is happening with the KWh of energy taken from the network?
Where did they go?
It was taking a 900W dryer for two hours and what happened to them?
The compressor was at room temperature?
There was no loss from the drum?

You know, I do not pick on too much, I am a simple type and I do not care too much about details about how household appliances work - it is just supposed to work. I liked Miele, it has these functions that I consider necessary and that is why I acquired them. and so I properly approach the entire household appliances rest ...
I agree with you that these are not 100% efficient devices, but are more efficient than those that do not have a PC.
I am more irritated by the fact that the class AA amplifier has a very low efficiency and also emits more heat than this dryer ...

Let me add a few more things that a condenser dryer can do with a heater, and not one with a heat pump:
1. Drying shoes while drying the laundry - the shoes rest against the hot air outlet and dry with waste heat.

2. Exhaust mode operation - we open the heat exchanger cover and the hot and humid air goes outside and the dryer sucks the cool dry air from the room. Then it works like an ordinary exhaust air dryer, nothing condenses, but dries even faster than with condensation.
3. Operation instead of a humidifier - when we open the exchanger, as in point 2, the dryer ensures the supply of moisture to the house - it works well in winter, when the air in the house is dry. We have quick dry laundry and humidified air.

Hello.

I have a question - what would you advise - Electrolux EDP12074PDW or Whirlpool DSCX80111 or BOSCH WTN86200PL?
I read the whole thread from the beginning and I know I don't want a heat pump. However, I have a washing machine from Electrolux 8 kg, 1200 revolutions, inverter, EWF1287HDW2 model and I thought to be tempted by an Electrolux dryer. However, it is 7 kg, and the other two are 8 kg and it turns out that the power consumption would be similar. About two years ago I dealt with a Whirlpool washing machine from the Eco series and there was a drama, so I approach it with great reserve. What would you advise?
And additionally - is there a temperature range in which delicate or mixed clothes are dried, and cotton is the strongest? I have T-shirts with prints and sweatshirts and the tags do not dry them in the dryer ... I have enough moisture and a combination with drying clothes, and the worst is basically in autumn, winter and spring (the period when they should heat up, but not heat anymore) .. .

SolariS099 wrote:

I have T-shirts with prints and sweatshirts and there are tags on the labels so as not to dry in the dryer ...

I advise you to follow the information on the tags. If these are really branded clothes, incidentally, in an emergency, I would dry them in a dryer ... but only from one with a heat pump. Drying with the soft program in a conventional tumble dryer takes forever.

I mean, they are mainly T-shirts from House, Cropp, Reserved. The same sweatshirts. I like to buy clothes with some additional applications, so I would have to dry on a delicate or something similar ...

SolariS099 wrote:

I mean, they are mainly T-shirts from House, Cropp, Reserved.

Well, I wouldn't risk it (no offense)

No, I'm not offended and which one would you advise of these three? I have read the Whirlpool manual and it makes sense and I don't know if I should follow this model more ...

SolariS099 wrote:

what would you advise of these three?

Rather, no one will show you the only right one, and rather, no one had them at home to compare. So take the prettiest

I like Whirlpool and I am looking at the user manual right now. I was looking at Electrolux and I kind of thought I didn't need the door to see it spinning, but I'd rather however, after the adventures with the washing machine, I'm afraid that the dryer may play tricks on me ... I know Bosch in terms of washing machines (I dealt with Siemens, while my grandmother has a Zelmer dishwasher ). Quite a big dilemma, because I will close myself to about PLN 1,500 in terms of price.

I have another question - there is something in the Whirlpool manual:

"ADJUSTING THE DRYER TO THE CONDUCTIVITY OF WATER
The conductivity of the water used during washing may affect
drying effects. If a change in the available degrees of drying (dry
- for ironing; dry - for the wardrobe; very dry) does not provide
satisfactory drying results can still be adjusted
conductivity level of the water. It is factory set in the dryer
level 2. Select a level between 1 (wettest) and 5
(completely dry).
Press and hold the Programming button until
until the Settings symbol flashes in the display
conductivity.
Turn the knob to set the level (1-2 - 3 - 4 - 5).
Press the knob to confirm the selected level.
This operation does not have to be repeated with each drying cycle.
When the appropriate level of water conductivity has been determined,
no further changes need to be made. "

What is going on? What's the highest level at -5 is it leading the fastest or ...?

SolariS099 wrote:

I have another question - there is something in the Whirlpool manual:



What is going on? What's the highest level at -5 is it leading the fastest or ...?

It is about the electrical conductivity of water, which is actually hardness.
The harder the water, the greater the conductivity.

It is best to set experimentally according to drying effects, because it can be difficult to test the conductivity of the water and adjust it to these numbers.

Okay, but now there's another problem (or not) - I have a washing machine that is 60cm deep. And this Whirlpool is 65.9 cm, while Electrolux is 54 cm deep ... do I have to have a dryer that is equal to 60 cm or what does it look like ...: /

SolariS099 wrote:

Okay, but now there's another problem (or not) - I have a washing machine that is 60cm deep. And this Whirlpool is 65.9 cm, while Electrolux is 54 cm deep ... do I have to have a dryer that is equal to 60 cm or what does it look like ...: /

Hi,

Once you read the instructions, it probably says what you can bet and how. because it's not that you just put one on top of the other, only most manufacturers sell a "stand" for the device that goes up. the top plates of the washing machines are not designed to hold a load of 60-70 kg, even if that weight is distributed over four pressure points. unless the manual specifically allows. well, unless you are making a floor stand with a separate panel above the washing machine, I see patens like this and as long as there is separation, everything should be ok ... the key word is it should.

And as someone wrote above, here are as many opinions as writers plus three more, if you do not know what to take, take what you like ... in stores, do not ask for advice because they will advise you what they are currently in arrears in stock LOL