Printing with a laser printer on a PCB laminate

Piottr242 wrote:

The fact is that I have so far ironed tiles that do not exceed the surface of the tram ticket, I do not know if I will be able to do so nicely with a larger area.

Exactly it is, I do not have a lot of experience in thermo, but jokingly writing the difficulty increases squared with the size of the tile (and dense paths) At least I yes I had.

To the author of the subject:
Is the Model 2500 instead of a Pantum 2502 printer capable of converting it?
With us in Poland it is hard to reach 2502.
pozdr

ksik wrote:

To the author of the subject:
Is the Model 2500 instead of a Pantum 2502 printer capable of converting it?
With us in Poland it is hard to reach 2502.
Pozdr

I corresponded with the author of the original text on Instructable and confirmed that he actually owns the P2500W.

With the rest how to take a good look at this photo:



this is the inscription P2500W, which the rest of the original author confirmed.

while @lukasku told me that there are problems with the photosensitive drum and the possibility of its damage during the "first tests". The new one costs PLN 180.

I would like to play with this construction, but I need to develop this subject of the drum. What to look for??

P2500W is the name of the series, so I think that the last digits are only minor modifications, and the mechanism itself.

Added after 12 [minutes]:

silelis wrote:

ksik wrote:

To the author of the subject:
Is the Model 2500 instead of a Pantum 2502 printer capable of converting it?
With us in Poland it is hard to reach 2502.
Pozdr

I corresponded with the author of the original text on Instructable and confirmed that he actually owns the P2500W.

With the rest how to take a good look at this photo:



this is the inscription P2500W, which the rest of the original author confirmed.

while @lukasku told me that there are problems with the photosensitive drum and the possibility of its damage during the "first tests". The new one will cost PLN 180.

Yes, I modified Panthum 2500 without "W". "W" is a sign of the wi-fi card, which is not needed for happiness and is more expensive.

Quote:

I'd love to play with this structure, but I just need to develop this drum theme. What to look for?

Maybe in the simplest way, the drum is very delicate, (it seems to me that the Lexmark E260 / 460 have much stronger) therefore, everything with a contact must be smoothed and in case of any stop (when there is a PCB in the middle) ) it can not be dragged (this was my mistake), only unfortunately you have to disassemble the toner every time. Of course, this will happen at the beginning / testing of fun in printing.

Due to the fact that I did not get the Lexmark E260 (that is the second printer from the link from the first post) I bought a Lexmark E460, which I am finishing by myself. I will try to show results in this thread. Greetings.

To Marianm68:
Have you tried silicone spray with thermal transfer?
How do I give details?

To lukasku:
I tried to print the nitride directly on the paper and after evaporation move the copper on the thermotransfer, the effect was the same as without it and even worse because as a color paper it also carried minimal, sometimes paint from the paper especially red, I will add that nitro did not dissolve the toner I have to have a different solvent that takes my toner because the standard nitro does not want to eat it.


pozdr

Hello, have you met with toner, which (heated) does not dissolve: acetone, gasoline, solvents: phthalic, nitro, for oil paints, only very minimal solvent for chlorinated rubber paints. Someone knows what you can try, because rubbing with only 500-800 paper is a torment. Did anyone have anything similar to you? greetings

You can still try it with spirit.

The label remover is great for removing toner. I have one in orange spray, the toner washes away perfectly.

uhyt wrote:

You can still try it with spirit.

Isopropyl alcohol, oil does not work, I will see clean but rather poor chances.

Piottr242 wrote:

The label remover is great for removing the toner. I have one in orange spray, the toner washes off perfectly.

I do not know where such a thing can be bought, but thanks to look.

lukasku wrote:

I do not know where you can buy something, but thanks to look.

lebel off it will peel off each label.

Well, there are still nasty things like toluene and xylen, but poor chances.
By the way, what is this toner?

uhyt wrote:

Well, there are still nasty things like toluene and xylen, but no chances.
By the way, what is this toner?

Hello, I have no idea I bought it with the printer, I know it was topped up. I tried to find out, but I can not reach the seller

Xylene perfectly dissolves toner. At least the one from HP. Because now there are toners-inventions.

ksik wrote:

To marianm68:
Have you tried silicone spray with thermal transfer?
How do I give details? Pozdr

Yes, but not very successful. I tried three times but I always had some losses in the transferred printout on the board. Each time I tried, I tried (and evenly) to spread / wipe the silicone. The sticky toner held firmly but unfortunately not everywhere.

Perhaps I am still playing with silicone (I did not have too much time to try and I made this plate with the "classic" termotransfer).

lukasku wrote:

uhyt wrote:

Well, there are still nasty things like toluene and xylen, but poor chances.
By the way, what is this toner?

Hello, I have no idea I bought it with the printer, I know it was topped up. I tried to find out but I can not reach the seller

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And you found out what this toner is? Unfortunately, what I have in Samsung ML2165 (D101S) is some kind of stick and I often have clearances on larger copper squares and garnish so that the thermal transfer begins to annoy me.

ksik wrote:

Well, there are still nasty things like toluene and xylen, but poor chances.
By the way, what is this toner?

Unfortunately, no solvent (xylene) so far I have not tested either.

First print tests with Lexmark (size of the 195x255 board, so almost A4 size)
:

Show it after picking up how the toner reacts on contact with B327.

It's hard to get a good photo with my camera.


Double-sided plate, holes are in the range of 0.5 mm, as for me it is sufficient accuracy.

To the author of the topic. I see that in the middle this Pantum is Samsung. Very similar to ML1610 or ML2010.




The sensors and electromagnet need to be seized:




You can search for such printers for a project. Although you can see that the paper path is not perfectly straight to Fusera, you would need to work on it. Remake the clamps, dump everything from the paper path, make the tray. But he will very similarly come to this Pantum.

bodzio667 wrote:

To the author of the topic. I see that in the middle this Pantum is Samsung. Very similar to ML1610 or ML2010.


The sensors and electromagnet need to be seized:

Perhaps it would be ok, sensors and electromagnet is not a problem, fuser must be dismantled anyway, and I would like to pay attention to whether it is possible to pass through the toner / opc plate without problems and the life of the opc drum itself.

And you found out what this toner is? Unfortunately, what I have in Samsung ML2165 (D101S) is some kind of stick and I often have clearances on larger copper squares and garnish through it until it starts me already termotransfer denerwować. [/ Quote]

Did you correct something with a pen before throwing it in the etcher, because the pictures show that the paths are even and not ragged, and in addition large areas of copper are also undamaged until it is impossible that such a good toner is not bitten.
Pozdr.

ksik wrote:

Did you correct something with a pen before throwing it in the etcher, because the pictures show that the paths are even and not ragged, and in addition large areas of copper are also undamaged until it is impossible that such a good toner is not bitten.
Pozdr.

I do not know what kind of toner, because I bought this printer about 5-6m ago and the company I bought in does not speak (maybe it does not exist anymore). I am not a chemist, but who knows whether the cause is not in some degree also the primer, or silicone (maybe react with each other). I did not have too much time and the problem with buying xylene in my area, so far I do not know the solvent.
As for the correction, they were corrected (not counting the sides, because I wanted to widen the circuit on the perimeter of the plate), in three areas (approximately 2x3 cm), but because a bit less toner left them in the drum (I did not want to let go print again) and I preferred to improve the pen for sure. I print the printout and sometimes it is so that the dust-bound dust (these are microns, but under the light) looks like the uncoated copper surface. There were many such eyes (dust), so I took the risk of etching to see one hundred percent, whether it is connected to dust as I wrote earlier, or not the toner (luckily, my assumptions have worked). In general, if only the print is even, there are no problems with undercoating.

To lukasku:

Did you find any toner cleaner?
I bought the same solvent as I used sooner, there is the same company etc. but the new bottle does not wash up completely, even using a heavily moistened cloth it smudges it over the laminate rather than washes it and I have a similar problem slowly like you.

Have you tried maybe something that the forum members suggested eg label off?

Greetings.

ksik wrote:

To lukasku:

Did you find any toner cleaner?
I bought the same solvent as I used sooner, there is the same company etc. but the new bottle does not wash up completely, even using a heavily moistened cloth it smudges it over the laminate rather than washes it and I have a similar problem slowly like you.

Have you tried maybe something that the forum members suggested eg label off?

Pozdro.

Unfortunately, I have not found, xylene also does not work. The toner reacts with the silicone and where the less applied silicone can be washed away with Nitro, but with an even position, I do not know the solvent that would wash it. By the way, this effect can probably be used to harden the toner, instead of heating or placing the plate in the vapors of acetone probably just put a layer of silicone with a spray on it. I did not notice any problems with pickling after the application of silicone.

I will do a great job also because I have no nerves to chalk paper and iron.

Hey,

I have a question, or rather a request for help.

I made Lexmark e260D sublimity in accordance with with this tutorial or at least I think so.

The printer takes a plate, but unfortunately there is not the smallest trace of toner on the copper. Nothing, nothing.

Does anyone who did this modification have any idea what a mistake it is?

Under this link film with printouts

And a few photos:

silelis wrote:

Hello,

I have a question, or rather a request for help.

I made Lexmark e260D sublimity in accordance with with this tutorial or at least I think so.

The printer takes a plate, but unfortunately there is not the smallest trace of toner on the copper. Nothing, nothing.

Does anyone who did this modification have any idea what a mistake it is?

Under this link film with printouts

Does the tape (tape adhesive) conduct electricity? There are two options, either the board (software) does not fit in the time window (especially the emulation of the second sensor), or you do not dissipate the static energy from the board (although in this case there should be some traces of toner). It's also possible that you can not fit into times because you choose bad paper. I do not know what should be in the tutorial because I wrote myself, but try, for example, foil instead of plain paper. And so most likely to my eye, you do not turn on the sensor of the second marked in the tutorial "pis". Check the cables again and see if uC works.

And here a more advanced modification, using the original transmission mechanisms.
[Film: cc7b303338] https://filmy.elektroda.pl/2_1512594302.mp4 [/ film: cc7b303338]
And here the accuracy of both sides of the double-sided disc

Second page

And the fact that instead of AtTiny13 I gave by mistake ATTiny13A can be the reason ???
I talked to the describing tutorial and he says no.
But the difference is that my one does not have analog inputs / outputs
Added after 6 [minutes]:
And the question about the coffee grounds are they well set up ?? I do not know about Atmel - it's not my story, because I've done everything on PICs so far.

You do not have a hole in the sheet, or the hole is badly measured and does not turn on the writing. If you have it, increase it until it works.