DIY metal bench lathe

Similar, because as the author mentioned a few posts earlier that this film was helpful to him.

A very nice machine built.

I have a question about the material used to build the bottom bracket, is it the most popular structural steel (probably S235) or maybe some better material?
How long have you been using this clipper and is there any problem with the bottom bracket guides getting stuck?

I'd love to see the machine you grinded dovetail. I am curious how you solved grinding at an angle. An attachment or maybe an angular vice?

Regards.

ocz0 wrote:

How long have you been using this clipper and is there any problem with the bottom bracket guides getting stuck?

I would not worry about scuffing because in every machine with exposed guides, they should be regularly cleaned of swarf and dirt and maintained (lubricated with oil). The machine will do its job for lighter periodic work, while continuous operation will wear out faster.
The only thing I miss in this project is a real tool holder with the possibility of attaching 4 knives at the same time.

The photos show the possibility of mounting only one knife, you need to watch the video. There is a possibility of installing four knives.

jalop wrote:

There is a possibility of installing four knives.

Right, I missed the video.
As they say, a good specialist will do well / accurately even on poor equipment, while a pseudo specialist will do a bad job on a new one without any slack. As I wrote, it will not be overloaded with cast iron or hard steel.
It is a pity that the author did not reveal / add up the cost of execution because they could be higher than the purchase of a larger machine for renovation (sometimes they are literally in the price of scrap metal).

Perhaps the author will post a cost estimate.
Maybe he will also throw in some aids / sketches that he used. It could be useful to someone.

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If so, where is the bottom bracket sealed to the bed guides?

The center angles are for tailstock locking only.

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It is a pity that the author did not reveal / add up the cost of execution because they could be higher than the purchase of a larger machine for renovation (sometimes they are literally in the price of scrap metal).

Hmm, if only I found some tsb in the "... scrap price" as you write, unfortunately the only one that I got was ZUCH probably 8M but I don't like this construction: a tube bed and a longitudinal support on a screw.
I am not able to state the cost as I had most of the materials
(recycled, from scrap, e.g. spindle, motor, inverter, bearings), e.g. an old damaged hydraulic jack (jack) was used to build the tailstock.
Trapezoidal bolts and nuts as well as gears and a few bearings are so bought in a mail order store.

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How long have you been using this clipper and is there any problem with the bottom bracket guides getting stuck?

In use since June, there is no problem with mashing (a brush and an oil can at hand), the material for the support is pieces of steel plates, what material - ??? but not some particularly hard one.

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I'd love to see the machine you grinded dovetail. I am curious how you solved grinding at an angle. An attachment or maybe an angular vice?

Angle vise with guide attached to the table of the bench drill and angle grinder firmly attached to the spindle, lockable at a certain height, something like this video.

Someone asked about the controller at the switch - there is no need to describe a simple system, the point is that after switching on, for example, the limit switch and withdrawing the support, it will not turn on automatically, but you need to turn it off and on again with a switch, such a protection against accidental activation.

You have worked a lot, but such a machine only for rough work. No precise work can be done with this. Bed - base. It has to be rigid, which is just cast iron. It has to be sanded, forget about precision without it. Well, but for rolling the hinge to the gate, the axles for the trolley are suitable.
For me, such a machine is art for art, because buying a used, in good condition, but factory-made, would seem a little more expensive than your production.
Respect anyway.

Mine is better - made with a ball and file over 45 years ago, when the cheapest drill cost over a month my earnings.
It rolls everything 400 mm long in centers and 200 mm turning diameter - suitcase, even side sled, guitar too.
.
Now also - I do not see a better one on the market.

Cool

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... made with a ball and a file ...

Just right, the support is either milled or adapted from a machine.

Ramp Feed Screw - Regular Metric Thread?

I am interested in how the guitar is resolved, how the drive is transferred and how the feed is engaged.
Can the threads be cut too?

LAKES,
Publish more photos, let our eyes enjoy. And show packed in a suitcase.
There's nothing like Bison.

The carriage is two 50 channels welded together, the longitudinal slide bolt is a metric thread with a feed of 2 mm - the feed handle is graduated every 0.02 mm
The screws of the transverse and oblique slide are with a feed of 1 mm - a feed handle graduated every 0.01 mm.
I don't need a micrometer screw for turning shafts and holes.
The guitar was driven from a through spindle with a turner, it had 7 gear ratios - it turned threads, but not standardized. My work requires a manual feed
In addition, I have an attachment for grinding rollers. The plan was also a vertical milling machine, but after the first turning chips, I couldn't tear myself away and stop.
It is impossible to fit the suitcase because it is permanently bolted and glued to the table, which gives stiffness and no vibrations.
For turning larger dimensions, I have to use prepared washers for the spindle, bottom bracket and tailstock, as shown in the picture.

Congratulations on the idea and execution. You can always improve.
You have unnecessarily placed this chip chute at the support. If you want to coat something with a larger diameter, you will have to disassemble the gutter.
I made a lathe 2 years ago. They always wrote on a certain forum - it makes no sense to buy a factory one. Only for 2 or 3 thousand. nothing good can be bought. I didn't need a lathe, some miracle. I needed a lathe of a simple construction to make something to roll, to roll something. So simple things.
And so, with the help of an angle grinder and an electric welder, I built a contraption. Of course visits to the scrap yards were necessary.
Data:
1.5 KW motor
turning length 800 mm
spindle 40 to 50mm, partially through, fi 25
spindle supports - three ball bearings
handle 150mm
turning accuracy 0.01 (depends on the turner)
does not thread
imak - 1 knife
max coarse chip - 4mm

So far, I have made spindles of a pillar drill, bearing deposits, etc. on it.
I will send the photos after January 1.

Kisses

Added after 5 [hours] 10 [minutes]:

Errors in the design of the AZXXC colleague's lathe that should be corrected:
1 - the limit switch electric wire should be covered with a steel spring shirt. Hot chips can melt the cable sheath or tear it apart. Cables are usually run in pipe sheaths. then it's safe
2 - cover the lead screw bearing, even with felt discs. Metal dust, fine particles will get into the bearing. Otherwise, the placenta will fail.
3 - turning tool too much out of the clamp. May cause unnecessary vibrations. Max stick out for rough machining 20mm. Then you can give a bigger chip.

Promised lathe pics.
And a device called a pillar drill, the components of which I made on this lathe.
All while moving to a new room.

atrix55 wrote:

a device called a pillar drill

The more well-known name is rather columnar
This chain is a bit loose in photo no. 3.

Freddy wrote:

atrix55 wrote:

a device called a pillar drill

The more well-known name is rather columnar
This chain is a bit loose in photo no. 3.

A column or columnar is one ............
Well, there is a bit of a loose chain. I have been doing the tensioner for two years I mean, all the components are done, just put it together

Interesting and quite unusual solutions.
I'm also going to make an electric feed (beetle wiper motor), but I'm going to make an adjustment, depending on the potentiometer setting and spindle speed, it was PWM, say from 20 to 100%, will it work -?

Loose chain - after all, the drive is only for travel, so it is not so important, in the case of thread cutting.

PS. out of curiosity, the spindle housing is from the worm gear of the manure loader?

azxxc wrote:

Interesting and quite unusual solutions.
I'm also going to make an electric feed (beetle wiper motor), but I'm going to make an adjustment, depending on the potentiometer setting and spindle speed, it was PWM, say from 20 to 100%, will it work -?

Loose chain - after all, the drive is only for travel, so it is not so important, in the case of thread cutting.

PS. out of curiosity, the spindle housing is from the worm gear of the manure loader?

Adjustment can be done. I did the easiest and fastest - regulated rectifier 6V, 12V, 24V. Even though I have been playing with electronics for many years
The gearbox was worm, I don't remember the name. I dragged myself from the scrap metal. It is difficult to say whether from the loader. The loose chain causes that there is only idle movement of the feed handwheel.

Actually mine is MOJSZA - I was looking for creators to exchange experiences in the construction of similar machines.
I saw 5 repair battalions - hundreds of vehicles, including the Stary-25, with all kinds of machines, even digitally controlled (motor shaft grinders, etc.).
Old car fleet with modern processing from model making to tank equipment.
Preserved on time "W" - everything went to the national economy - (state-owned farms handed out in solidarity to guys), you could only lick it - like on watch.