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  • DIY autonomous mower .
    There are thousands of DIY lawnmower projects on the web, this one probably doesn't stand out from the rest, but as it's been a long time since I've seen a similar project in this section I decided to share my experiences. This is the first prototype verifying in real life the basic assumptions.

    Device in operation. .


    .

    The idea to build one came from the desire to automate the mowing process, with the expertly advised mowers that would cope with this particular terrain coming out rather expensive due to the difficulties in the shape of the terrain. The second objective is to (at least presumably) save money (it will come out cheaper) and, above all, to have the fun of the construction as an added value. The design consists of as many modules as possible that are commonly available off-the-shelf (chassis, wheels/motors, motor controllers, cutting system, battery and its charging system, etc.), the only exception being a dedicated overall controller.

    Basic description of the construction.
    The running gear is built on 3 wheels, two drive wheels from a scooter once bought for a penny, they have a built-in drive system (bldc motor with Hall sensors), their advantages are high torque, simple adaptation to any structure and resistance by design to dirt. The third wheel is a furniture free-turning 360° wheel. The cutting system is the original motor from the Worx stand-alone mower, a custom cutting disc together with 3 knives from the Landroid mower (enlarged slightly than the original to increase the cutting diameter). Macalister brand housing or toolbox ;) .

    Electronics.
    All 3 motors (wheels and cutting disc) driven by reasonably cheap and popular Chinese bldc+Hall controllers, revs controlled by voltage from digital potentiometers. Current control of all motors on off-the-shelf Acs712 modules, battery charging module on universal CC/CV module, charging current control on ACS712. Wheel rotation control taken from Hall sensor pulses.
    The boundary wire code receiver is an implementation of the circuit from Google patent US8392044 with minor modifications. A little more about the boundary wire later in the description.
    The main controller is a dedicated board with a pic32mx470. The board contains the necessary digital and analogue IOs for ADC measurements (acs712) and digital signals from the other sensors, digital potentiometers for setting voltages to the drive systems, MRF24G Wi-Fi module for monitoring, remote updates etc., GPS module for coarse control of the boundary of the set area.
    Mcu driven by a custom OS using the tcpip MLA stack and custom drivers for the necessary peripherals. In addition, the OS has a LOGO-like control pseudo-code interpreter (forward 10, right turn 90, etc.) together with event handling (of the type "boundary wire detected", etc.). This allows faster development of the driving algorithm at the test stage without the need to constantly flash the mcu. The code is uploaded via the built-in http server.
    The boundary wire generator is based on pic10f222.
    Battery pack is a custom 4S pack built from cell lion LG (bought for pennies) 10FX 10Ah + BMS.

    Boundary wire concept. Boundary wire.
    Conduit (or wire) boundary by transmitting the appropriate signal creates a virtual fence within which the mower is to move. This secures the boundaries of the lawn, flowerbeds, islands, etc. and even in some cases the wire can serve as a leading wire to the base/charging station. It is also worth mentioning that there are 'wireless' solutions based on GPS assisted with additional local correction to increase the precision of the position. As this solution requires additional equipment and is not very commonly used in commercial mowers (except for a few such as Ambrogio), I decided to base my own solution on a classic, proven wire.
    In the first concept I tested a simple signal transmitter (30kHz) with its receiver. The circuit was a realisation suggested on some tutorial on the web on how to build a transmitter-receiver circuit for such a cable. Unfortunately, during quite intensive testing, this type of solution showed its rather significant drawbacks:

    - the difficulty of accurately determining the distance to the wire. The wire is detected e.g. 20cm in front of it and another 20cm behind. Theoretically, one could
    combine with sensitivity or transmit power to detect the moment of crossing more precisely, but this leads to another disadvantage:
    - A rather significant dependence of the signal on weather conditions, the moisture in the soil just after rain changes the signal propagation conditions strongly. What tunes up in the "dry" will diverge in the wet
    - the trouble of getting the cable to the islands in the middle of the lawn in such a way that it is not detectable by the lawnmower. It would need to be buried deep, plus possibly twisted together with the return wire to degrade the signal

    The above disadvantages disqualified this type of solution altogether. It was necessary to resort to another concept, a little more complicated, which not only does not have the disadvantages of the previous one, but also, thanks to the physics of the phenomenon used, solves the problem of bringing the cables to the islands. The solution is probably used in all mowers of this type. It is based roughly on the detection of a special code transmitted by the wire and checking whether the received signal is in accordance with the expected pattern or reversed. Practically, this is realised in the simplest way by transmitting a signal modulated by so-called Manchester coding: the transmitter of the wire generates, for example, a 16-bit code, which the mower knows. The position of the receiving coil along the plane of the wire (in front or behind) determines the direction of the field lines generated by the wire and the direction of the currents generated in the receiving coil. And this, in turn, in Manchester coding determines whether the received code will follow the expected pattern or be inverted (i.e. all bits switched 1->0 0->1). This determines the position of whether the cutter is 'inside' the loop region created by the wire or 'outside'. At the same time, the code reversal is very sharp and occurs just after passing the wire. A strong transmit signal is not a problem, it is just that you know beforehand that you are approaching the wire but until the signal reverses the wire has not been passed. For details of the implementation of the solution, I refer you to Google Patent No. US8392044 where everything is described in detail along with a diagram of the receiver.
    Getting the signal to the islands inside the mowing area is no longer a problem, simply lay the 'feed' wire to the island and the return wire close together in parallel (forming an omega shape), they do not need to be buried deeper. Cables laid close together in parallel only create an "inside" area signal, which will be ignored by the mower.. It is only when the wires are pulled apart by a minimum of 4-5cm that a detectable 'outer' area is created.

    Other sensors to assist with mower movement.
    In addition to detecting the permanent boundaries of the lawn, it would also be useful to detect unexpected obstacles. Trees, some left object in the path of the mower, resting animals etc. Originally, the main such sensor was to be an ultrasonic rangefinder. Unfortunately, the most popular cheap Chinese HC-SR04 module (its clone) turned out to be faulty, in an open area it generates a false reflection every now and then as if there was an obstacle close by. After googling it turned out to be some kind of flaw in the firmware of these sensors and most labelled as hc-SR04 have it. I bought a slightly more expensive, more branded one that doesn't have this flaw but doesn't really work in the field. Placed 10-15cm above the ground (max height is limited by the housing) it unfortunately sometimes returns the echo of a close obstacle. I suspect an uneven grass pattern causes such echoes. I have tried to solve the problem by using more advanced readout statistics to reject false positives. However, still very narrow obstacles (a thin tree, a spade left stuck in) will be invisible to such a sensor. In tests, we have found that a fairly effective obstacle sensor is the control of the current drawn by the wheels. This is currently the main method of obstacle detection and is performing satisfactorily so far.
    Of course, if anyone here has a proven ultrasonic or IR sun-proof sensor to suggest, I would be happy to test it. Another interesting obstacle detection solution is, for example, a peripheral hose with a pressure sensor. A collision with an obstacle presses on the hose, in which the pressure measured by this sensor increases.

    Motor driving the cutting disc.
    I decided to use an off-the-shelf solution here, there was no point in combining with a custom drive when off-the-shelf ones are affordable. The choice was between two motors: with or without hall. I had previously tested one without Hall, unfortunately the nature of controlling such a motor is a bit rough. The controller at start-up is a bit hesitant, having to jerk the motor to realise the shaft position (back EMF). In addition, there is some difficulty in stability at low revs under load (audible commutation "knocks"). And in this case the cutting disc does not need to rotate quickly. Since my previous experience with Hall motors suggested that such a one is more precisely controlled in the slow rpm ranges I decided to go for one with Hall. The motor of choice was from a Worx mower model 50032554.

    Cutting disc. .
    DIY autonomous mower .

    The original cutting disc for this engine is a little small and I'm keen to mow wider, at least 20cm (the original is 14cm, I think). The engine has plenty of power, so I can easily handle a larger one. The disc is CNC-cut from polycarbonate, with 3 cutting blades bolted to it every 120stp. Cutting height adjustment is achieved by selecting a suitable extension between the disc and the mounting bracket on the motor axis (3D printed component). Cutting height is adjusted very rarely, in fact only once, so unscrewing the 3 screws holding the extension piece and the disc is not a problem..

    Algorithm of mowing.
    Most low-cost mowers drive randomly, bouncing off boundary wires or obstacles, changing the angle of the bounce to avoid the effect of being driven into a corner. Then the mower may loop around a certain closed section repeating it indefinitely. Some additionally detect local density of grass and can make an extra circle in such a place.Since such a mower drives practically non-stop during the season, there is a high probability that practically every place will be visited by the mower in no more than a noticeable increment, i.e. a few days. In my case, the terrain is quite complex, with islands, connectors etc. so I have divided it into 3 areas. Driving all over would be inefficient. It is better to focus more often on one because you can finish it faster and then move on to the next one. The whole thing should be completed in a maximum of 3 days. To roughly delineate these area boundaries, the mower uses GPS.

    What is still to be done.
    Shield shield. Charging station. Algorithm for station search, support with additional lead wire to station, docking. No concept of charging contacts withstanding currents up to 5A as yet. Would love to hear ideas on how to do this.

    Problems that have come up during testing so far.
    Phantom wire detections where there is none. It turns out that the spinning knives generate Manchester decoder-detectable pulses that every now and then randomly match the 16-bit pattern (we only have 65tys of combinations) i.e. its mirror image. This is not a significant problem (the mower just changes direction). I plan to change the transmit frequency to not coincide with the rotation of the disc and possibly change the code to 32bit which will definitely reduce the likelihood of random generation by interference of this type.
    A free steering wheel with an exposed steering bearing is not a good idea, I'm worried about it seizing up quickly with cuttings. This is where adding a planned cutting disc guard or replacing it with a wheel with a shielded bearing might help.

    Cool? Ranking DIY
    About Author
    Marico
    Level 20  
    Offline 
    Marico wrote 408 posts with rating 59, helped 28 times. Been with us since 2010 year.
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  • #2 20254025
    bobojad
    Level 14  
    Hi. I like the design but the front wheel is probably only for dry days? It can add support for the rain sensor so that it does not mow wet and does not cover the mower with clippings. However, I am writing to give you a hint about the charging contacts. In the dirt you will get telescopic contacts from the trunk in the seicento, or from the sliding door in the citroen berlingo. These are quite strong contacts with a spring, a bit similar to brushes in a commutator, all you have to do is place large sheet metal fields on which the mower will drive with impetus and the contacts will give good contact, you can finish docking then with a limit switch too.
  • #3 20254039
    Marico
    Level 20  
    bobojad wrote:
    Hi. I like the design but the front wheel is probably only for dry days? It can add support for the rain sensor so that it does not mow wet and does not cover the mower with clippings.

    This wheel, of course, needs to be replaced, when it comes to weather, the mower receives weather data from the smart home system. It does not need to have a local sensor.

    bobojad wrote:
    However, I am writing to give you a hint about the charging contacts. In the dirt you will get telescopic contacts from the trunk in the seicento, or from the sliding door in the citroen berlingo. These are quite strong contacts with a spring, a bit similar to brushes in a commutator, all you have to do is place large sheet metal fields on which the mower will drive with impetus and the contacts will give good contact, you can finish docking then with a limit switch too.

    Oh thanks for the tip, that's an idea.
  • #4 20254255
    Shadowix
    Level 31  
    Marico wrote:
    What's left to do.
    Shield cover.

    This should be done first! DIY, diyem but safety above all. Also add a safety button in an accessible place on the housing. In addition, I also recommend installing a lift sensor - to turn off the knife in case of accidental lifting. For emergency shutdown (mushroom and lift sensor), the knife should also have a brake to stop as quickly as possible. I advise you to think about this very carefully, because fingers do not grow back. The docking station with contacts is very simply solved for the Stiga Autoclip mower.
  • #5 20254319
    Marico
    Level 20  
    Shadowix wrote:
    This should be done first! DIY, diyem but safety above all. Also add a safety button in an accessible place on the housing.

    I will provocatively comment that the shield is for proper mulching, not finger protection ;-) .
    As for the emergency stop button and the tilt sensor, it is implemented.
  • #6 20254396
    zgierzman
    Level 31  
    Marico wrote:
    I will provocatively comment that the shield is for proper mulching, not finger protection

    Attempting to lift the mower, for example if it is stuck on a bump, may result in nail damage :-)
    Similarly, when outsiders start watching it, for example, guests at a barbecue, when someone says: "what a cool gadget you made, hold my beer, I'll watch it".
    Not only a cover would be useful, but also an independent blockade of the knife drive when the mower is lifted and not with all wheels firmly on the ground.
    I'm also considering a polycarbonate dial. Knife mounting can develop over time, better bearings would be useful there. For example, some rigidly embedded sleeve that is the bearing of the knife. Do you have something like this?
  • #7 20254425
    Marico
    Level 20  
    zgierzman wrote:
    For example, some rigidly embedded sleeve that is the bearing of the knife. Do you have something like this?

    There is bushing. The knives do not touch the disc at all during the swing. This shield is rather temporary, although the polycarbonate here was chosen on purpose because it does not break as easily as "plexiglass".
    Perhaps I will replace with a genuine Worx dial.
  • #8 20254839
    szym86
    Level 13  
    Nice project, invaluable knowledge and DIY idea, but if I had to build something like this, thank you. Recently, I helped someone install a bosch indego 1200 mower bought used. Copying it is unprofitable. The housing itself, for example, is complex, protects against weather conditions, integrates obstacle sensors, a stop button, a display, a height adjustment mechanism, contacts connecting to the charging station, etc. As a rule, DIY mowers look like a toolbox.
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  • #9 20254917
    szeryf3
    Level 29  
    @Marico, the design is great.
    You must have spent a lot of time doing it.
    If you ever could add a tiny photovoltaic panel, you would recharge the battery while mowing.
    I know that it would be an excess of form over substance, but you would be a bit pro-eco.
  • #10 20255005
    Marico
    Level 20  
    szym86 wrote:
    Copying it is unprofitable.

    You can argue with that. A factory mower that would cover the complex area mentioned in the description costs at least PLN 15,000. And experts say that it would probably have to be min. 2 pcs. In addition, there are land adjustment works, because in its current form (high lawn edges) it is not suitable for ready-made mowers (the boundary wire would have to be far from the edge and this would result in a wide unmowed strip). By building your own, it implements all the necessary functions.
  • #11 20255059
    szymon122
    Level 38  
    Everything is nice, but I miss the most important description, i.e. the "logic" of this mower.
    I understand that GPS gives a rough location, the boundary wire tells you where to go, but in the middle of the plot?
    It's like, "Go to the border, when you get there, turn at a random angle and go straight," and so on and on?
    Or do you have some terrain mapping and "painting over" the already mowed area?
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  • #12 20255079
    Marico
    Level 20  
    szymon122 wrote:
    It's like, "Go to the border, when you get there, turn at a random angle and go straight," and so on and on?

    For now, yes. However, currently this angle is not random. He tries to "draw a snake laid on a plane". At the moment I am testing different algorithms, the target one is not yet chosen. Taking into account that the mower runs 24 hours a random algorithm will also work on a small area, this is due to the opinions of users of these "random" mowers (Worx, Landroid, cheaper models Ambrigio, Gardena).
    For now, GPS is used to divide the terrain into smaller areas to focus on them, after finishing (after the set time) it moves to the next area.
    I admit that the description of the logic is poor, but this is due to the fact that I have not yet drawn the final conclusions. I am also looking forward to the discussion/experience of others on this matter.

    szymon122 wrote:
    Or do you have some terrain mapping and "painting over" the already mowed area?

    I'm not doing that right now, maybe in the future.
  • #13 20255394
    Bogus105
    Level 16  
    I see that there are a lot of professionals here who know exactly what you did wrong or what you didn't do. The truth is you are the only one who did a great job and my sincere congratulations on your time and skills - both in DIY and (mainly!) in programming. I have had a mower for several years (Viking iMov MI632) and I can't imagine my life without it, even though there is a tractor in the garage. Just a waste of time. Your implementation is super interesting and it works. I liked the idea of making knives. I am thinking of modifying my arm so that trapezoidal blades from the so-called wallpaper knives can be used. I once came across a very interesting study on a self-learning algorithm that maps the mowed area. Such mowers do not have any sensors other than detecting the boundary wire and analyzing the number of steps sent to the stepper motors of the drive wheels. Mathematics has been the queen of the sciences for a long time :) If I know it on a PDF drive, I can drop it.
    Greetings!
  • #14 20256583
    kulfi27
    Level 9  
    Hi, a nice project probably cost a lot of time, I also work on a similar robot, except that I managed to buy a damaged gardena
    so I have the case and the motors, I made the electronics myself. I must admit that with such a project there are a lot of things to take care of, when it comes to the mowing area limiting system for the mower, I had no idea how to do it, the solution you used seems to be interesting, maybe I will also test it, at the moment I only have an external wire which " I'm sending" several hundred pulses at some given time, and as you wrote earlier, this is not an ideal solution. I'm constantly testing something and improving the code, my mowing algorithm is random so far, the area that mows is quite difficult, various nooks and crannies but I have to admit that it gives advice. It's nice that you shared this project, it will be possible to exchange experiences :D
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  • #15 20257394
    398216 Usunięty
    Level 43  
    At what speed does the cutting disc rotate? Isn't it a little too slow? And the fact is - polycarbonate as a shield ... in my opinion, it's a request for trouble - some pebble and splinters of plexiglass (along with knives) will fly sideways at high speed. That is why (among other things) mowers have a steel shield around the disc/knives.
  • #16 20257402
    Marico
    Level 20  
    Polycarbonate is not "plexiglass", that's why it was used because it does not chip. It is virtually indestructible.
  • #17 20257429
    398216 Usunięty
    Level 43  
    Marico wrote:
    It is virtually indestructible.
    We will see...
  • #18 20257786
    Marico
    Level 20  
    kulfi27 wrote:
    so I have the case and the motors, I made the electronics myself.

    I also considered the option with a ready-made one (only replacing the electronics), but somehow I didn't find a particularly cheap corpse. And this square captivated me, so now I don't know if I will translate it into something more fashionable.
    And what are the engines (scythe, wheels) in this Gardena? Bldc or brush? How did you solve the early wire detection problem in your method? How long does Gardena mow on a single charge?
  • #20 20258001
    Marico
    Level 20  
    And you said that based on appearance? :D
  • #21 20258228
    398216 Usunięty
    Level 43  
    PRL wrote:
    It does not perform the main function, i.e. mowing.

    I asked about turnover, but got no answer. On the other hand, a lecture on the strength of polycarbonate is the most.
  • #23 20258661
    Marico
    Level 20  
    I see that you need to realize what function these types of mowers are supposed to perform. All autonomous/robot mowers (those commonly available, not some for special applications) are not used to mow weeds and lawns that have been neglected for weeks. Because they drive every day only with breaks for charging and possible rain, their task is only to trim the daily growth, i.e. a maximum of 1-3mm per day. And that's just what they're for. Due to their regularity in operation, they do not need a 10 cm wide and 20 cm long scythe.
    For the same reason, they do not need a large number of revolutions of the blade disc, which they make up for in being closer to a razor than to the scythe blade of a classic mower. The blade of such a mower can be cut like a razor, I have experienced it many times.

    Such a mower, of course, will not cope with a neglected lawn like a petrol mower with a 3kW engine and a 10x30 scythe because it is not designed for this purpose. If for some reason (mower failure, lack of power) such a mower does not go to work for several days, you have to pull out the classic mower and prepare the lawn for the autonomous mower again (at least in most cases).

    My mower's cutting disc and blades are no different from any other on the market.
    Principle of operation and application as well.

    Added after 5 [minutes]:

    398216 Usunięty wrote:
    I asked about turnover, but got no answer. On the other hand, a lecture on the strength of polycarbonate is the most.


    I remember the question and I will answer how exactly I measure, by "eye" it is currently from the basket below 1000 rpm. There's no need for more.
  • #24 20260507
    kulfi27
    Level 9  
    Marico wrote:
    kulfi27 wrote:
    so I have the case and the motors, I made the electronics myself.

    I also considered the option with a ready-made one (only replacing the electronics), but somehow I didn't find a particularly cheap corpse. And this square captivated me, so now I don't know if I will translate it into something more fashionable.
    And what are the engines (scythe, wheels) in this Gardena? Bldc or brush? How did you solve the early wire detection problem in your method? How long does Gardena mow on a single charge?

    The motors in the garden are BLDC, when it comes to wire detection, as I wrote earlier, it's not perfect, I hope so far, it gives a given number of impulses at a certain time, then I take a break, when the work reads a given amount, it travels a given distance, for now it only uses the front sensor I have the rear one is also prepared but no time for further work, on average it mows 2 hours on the battery in the months of really strong grass growth and I have a very dense lawn in the summer season even up to 3 hours gives advice, I reworked the original batteries and installed stronger cells. In the gardeny or Husqvarna documentation, I found that the mowing speed in their models is about 2800 rpm per minute, so I also set this speed and it's ok.
  • #25 20261050
    kotbury
    Gantry automation specialist
    I have a deep Chinese mower NAC MEX, run like clockwork (after a slight tuning like turning off the hole detectors in the front wheels and making twins on the driving wheels).
    Quote:
    Of course, if anyone here has a proven ultrasonic or IR sensor that is resistant to the sun, I will be happy to test it. Another interesting solution for detecting obstacles is, for example, a circumferential hose with a pressure sensor. A collision with an obstacle presses on the hose, in which the pressure measured by this sensor increases.

    Looking at it - obstacle detectors in the form of advanced electronics, as the author wrote - are a bit off the mark. My mower (as well as most of the older and more expensive brothers) has mechanical obstacle sensors - I mean the sensors themselves are hall effect, but the obstacles are detected by the outer casing itself - spring-mounted with four vertical springs to the proper casing. When hitting an obstacle, the housing with magnets bends on springs in one direction and activates the appropriate hall sensor.
    But the fact - doing something like that amateur would be difficult.
    And as for tracking - the base in my copy does not use any complicated algorithms (checked with a signal analyzer) but gives a rectangular 7.4 kHz signal with a large power of 250 mW. and it works somehow. The precision is quite good, and it is increased by the fact that the mower slows down significantly when approaching the wire.
    P.S. The blade disc has 3000 rpm in my kettle, and it is also (meaning like wheels) on the BLDC motor, but sooner than for the sense - for the cost - the drivers of all the motors are identical, secondly - it is easier to detect a blocked knife in the BLDC motor (Hall effect sensors in motor plus an error signal from the controller) than to combine amperometrics in an ordinary brush one.
  • #26 20261058
    Marico
    Level 20  
    kulfi27 wrote:
    The motors in the gardenia are BLDC

    Did you build the controller for these motors yourself or did you use a ready-made one?
  • #27 20263923
    kulfi27
    Level 9  
    I made all the electronics myself as well as the driver for the motors, the brain of the whole thing is the STM32G474, there is still a lot of work ahead of me, mainly from the software side.
  • #28 20267092
    btsimonh
    Level 11  
    Check out bipropellant (https://github.com/bipropellant) as an open-source firmware for 'normal' hoverboard driver boards....
    It's a quick start to driving the wheels... and provides tilt sensors and button with the hoverboard sensors.
  • #29 20275658
    metalMANiu
    Level 21  
    I appreciate the project and the knowledge you managed to acquire. A little note about:
    Marico wrote:
    control of the current drawn by the wheels. This is currently the main obstacle detection method, and so far it is performing satisfactorily.

    You mentioned resting animals. Here, it would probably be more useful to control the current of the cutting system motor :)
    Well, unless we are talking about animals such as cows, etc
  • #30 20584525
    Marico
    Level 20  
    The project was created at the end of autumn, so there was not much opportunity to thoroughly test it. This season, the mower has been running for a month and I can share a few observations. The mower serves two separate areas (approximately 600m2 and 150m2, cutting width 36cm) separated by a boundary wire. The separation is intentional, more on that later.

    Current insights:
    1. Fears that random mowing (without a special algorithm that selects the area to be mowed) may be problematic (so that in a reasonable amount of time the surface will be equally even after mowing) did not come true. The mower drives all day every day and after a few days from the start (after initial mowing with a regular mower) the grass looks evenly mowed.

    2. One-day breaks in mowing due to rain do not cause visible "stubble". We'll see how it goes with longer breaks.

    3. 2 batteries, 4s each, 10Ah connected in parallel, are sufficient for at least 14 hours of continuous operation. For the time being, I do not see the need to build a charging station and add such a function. I take the mower to charge at night and start in the morning. And so, every day before the start, I sharpen the knives, so I don't mind this daily manual start.

    4. The mower serves two separate areas. Larger from the morning until 6 pm and smaller after 6 pm. At this time I translate it manually or direct it via remote control supported by video monitoring if I am not on site. The division into two areas is due to the fact that there is a rather narrow isthmus connecting them, hence the fear that there would rarely be a chance for it to freely pass between them. The mower would get stuck in one area for quite some time before it would scramble to an adjacent area. And by separating them, I can be sure of "staying" for a certain period of time in a given area.

    5. When constructing/adapting a lawn to such a mower, it is necessary to take good care of the edge with the boundary wire, especially the surface behind the edge, so that there is a margin of even surface of at least 15 cm for possible driving of the front wheels so that they can turn freely. It is also good to pay attention that the border wire is properly retracted so that the mower can mow the edge of the lawn.

    6. The front wheels that turn freely are sometimes problematic. Currently, there are two (typical for trolleys), but they have the feature that they sometimes set sideways in the unevenness of the ground and block the movement of the mower when turning. I will try to replace these wheels with original ones from Landroid where they are wide and their vertical alignment is at a certain angle that prevents such blocking.

    7. The automatic change of knife rotation has a positive effect on battery saving. If there is greater cutting resistance (thicker grass), the mower increases the revolutions, if less - it decreases.

    8. So far, 3 edge wire sensors are sufficient, two at the front on the gauges and one at the rear to detect backwards out of bounds. The location of the front ones must be carefully thought out. I extended them a little too far to the cable for fear that the front wheel would not go too far into the edge, which is not perfect everywhere. As a result, I have in some places unmowed at the edge. I intend to eliminate this problem in the future by properly reconstructing the edge of the lawn.




Topic summary

The discussion revolves around a DIY autonomous lawnmower project aimed at automating the mowing process while being cost-effective and customizable. The creator shares insights on the design, which utilizes off-the-shelf components such as chassis, motors, and battery systems. Participants provide suggestions for improving safety features, including emergency stop buttons and lift sensors, as well as enhancing the mower's functionality with weather sensors and better cutting mechanisms. The logic behind the mower's operation is also debated, with considerations for terrain mapping and mowing algorithms. Users share experiences with commercial models like Bosch Indego and Viking iMov, highlighting the complexities of factory designs compared to DIY solutions. The conversation emphasizes the importance of safety, efficiency, and adaptability in autonomous mowing systems.
Summary generated by the language model.
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