[WB2L/BK7231T] Spectrum Smart E27 1500 lm 13W WOJ14473

Greetings!

I have bought Spectrum Smart E27 1500 lm 13 W (Model: WOJ14473) and want to share my teardown.
I find confusing some disassembly manuals so firstly let me share my way.
External parts are:

1 - Tip/Pin
2 -E27 thread with plastic hole for Tip/Pin [1]
3 - Plastic body
4 - transparent cover/diffusor

Disassembly
First put something sharp between Tip/Pin[1] and part [2]

Pull Pin [1] out of plastic [2]
Then You will see one of live connections:

Notice this as it has to be in place during assembly.

This is tricky part as metal that this thread is made of is pretty thin I would suggest to put something betweet metal part of thread [2] and plastic body [3]. I have used lock-jaw pliers and covered thread with rag but thread is slightly deformed.

There is second connection wire.
Another thing to notice is that after assembly this part will no longer hold as it previously did. You can try to pin original holes all around body to ensure good contact.

There are diffrent ways of removing diffusor . For this bulb running thin sheet of metal between body and diffusor was no help because putty is at its botom part of diffusor .
I manage do detach it by grabbing body with one hand and diffusor and apply force (first disassembly needs it a lot) like so:

Some people on internet find it easier to use twisting motion.
I think that most important thigs is to place Your fingers.hand evenly on whole parts, to avoid damaging parts or Your hands.

You will notice aluminium plate with LED on it.
Turn Your bulb upside down. Put something relatively soft and long inside avoiding any internal electronic PCB parts". I recommend wooden crayon.


Turn You bulb once more for the the other part to crayon to hold on something (table).

And tap external part {3] (not the LED plate in center) with Your straightened hand.

You will see 2 PCB (power PCB and MCU PCB) and LED plate.

Originally there was some putty additionally holding it together. Remove that carefully with scalpel and avoid braking SMD parts.
After that just slide one PCB from another.

Next aim is to desolder (use soldering iron or more preferentially hot air) W2BL PCB because TX and RX is on back of PCB.

(Yeah I know something looks rusty. Cleaned it after that.)

Programming
Connect:
Programmer / WB2L
- 3v3 to 3V3 pin*,
- GND To GND
- Left loose to RST (also refered as CEN)
- TX to RX
- RX to TX

* I have used FTDI programmer with 3V3 output so no additional power supply was required.

Use BK7231GUIFlashTool
Pic COM port.
Pic BK7231T.
Downlaod FW *.bon file manually or from inside program.
Flash It.

Configuration

P6 (PWM0) Set up as PWM #2
P7 (PWM1) Set up as PWM #5
P8 (PWM2) Set up as PWM #4
P24 (PWM4) Set up as PWM #3
P26 (PWM5) Set up as PWM #1
* what i have in fact did is i have choosed this device as it seemed similar and swapped PWM 3 i 2.

I additionally advise You to set up Flag 12 from WebUI to restore bulb to previous state after switching off and back on.

Put everything back together reverse order keep in mind:
- live wires should have good contact with their pin and E27 Thread.
- placing back aluminium plate with LEDs require additional use of force to put it back evenly into body;
- E27 thread can require pinching hole to provide reasonable friction (You will notice this if when screwing bulb thread will stay in bulb socket and rest of bulb will stay in Your hand - Yest pretty hazardous since live wires will come loose ...)
I personally did not saw need to place putty again;

Right now I have some issues (submitted on GitHub)it takes long time to reconnect bulb to WiFi. If You have some similar problems You can try to Use feature called Ping Watchdog.