Band sawmill, horizontal. 4kW belt drive.

thanks a lot for your reply!

I also don't have any technical drawings. Everything was designed in the head and matched to the length of the tape.

hmm, I will add once again that I really like these machines, going further I found even cooler on the net, the best is this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRtjbOA0Ho0&feature=related

and this is due to the fact that you bypass all this mess related to the band saw and you simply mount the chainsaw guide - the idea is brilliant for me

from what I can see, the entire drive of the saw chain has been replaced with an electric one


Do you have any ideas about the disadvantages of this solution? I found one: the thickness of the saw guide is much greater than the tape, so there will be more sawdust and less boards per log

Here, in turn, the version that instead of these pulleys (which are not cheap) was used instead of car wheels

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQhD3-TLank



and a few more interesting links for good measure:
http://alterra-wv.com/wood/bandmill.htm#wheel
http://timetofiddle.yolasite.com/bandsaw-mill.php
http://www.diybandmill.com/
http://www.sawmillplans.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ub6_pACrWYw
http://www.tjswoodshop.com/building_a_homebuilt_portable_sawmill

I am not delighted with this saw because of the fact that the saw chain is sliding in the guide. A lot of oil consumption, and high power consumption, because the thick layer of wood (about 4x thicker than with the tape) that the chain must cut - simplifying 4x more energy needed for this. (and 4x more sawdust) Besides, imagine what the non-bearing rosette at the end of the guide will look like after wiping a few m? of boards, and replacing the guide every few m? is also a considerable expense. The cutting speed (at least 4x slower) is also a disadvantage of this solution.
In a word, a complete misunderstanding in my opinion.
As for car wheels, it seems to me that assuming that we have little to wipe and we are building a makeshift, it may pay off, although I would be afraid of problems with adjusting the belt.
However, in the links posted by a colleague farmazon3000 lifting with a winch and a steel cable occurs several times.
I was also wondering about a similar jack, when a lot of sawdust deposited on my trapezoidal screw, eventually wiping off the grease and seizing the screw. Ultimately, however, a tight cover of the propeller with the suction pipe resolved the topic.
Summing up and not boasting, my solution seems to be optimal to me, but if someone insists, the cable lift seems to be an alternative solution, assuming that we do not plan to convert the screw into an electric drive.

As for the use of the guide, I am of the same opinion as jantar2005 . The advantage is the possibility of wiping on both sides.

As for the cable winch, however, I prefer the trapezoidal screw solution.

The use of car wheels is associated with a significant reduction in costs, but also a reduction in the accuracy of the cut.

I found a sketch that I made for cutting the back wall of the head with a plasma plotter, so I am placing it - it may be useful to someone.


Coming back to lifting the head, I did not consider the cable winch, but the lifting with a small rack and a Gall chain. It seems cheap, simple and sawdust resistant.

Not a plasma plotter but a plasma cutter.

Not that I would argue, but they cut me with a plasma plotter at Centrostal in Bielsko Biała. :D

They offered to cut me with a laser or plasma plotter or some water jet. I decided that after the plasma plotter it was enough and it turned out perfectly.

For Farmazon3000 I have another alternative. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_yjXn4o5iU&feature=related
Such a wheelbarrow would interest me very much. Its construction, however, is more advanced, but its performance is fantastic. Here, the kerf is also large (although smaller than with a chain saw), but other advantages mean that the band sawmill hides with it.

well, such a sawmill with a circular saw is also interesting when it comes to its construction, it bothers me
1.engine power (probably several kW),
2.the method of mounting the blade to the shaft (what comes to my mind is to dismantle an existing saw / grinder / miter saw, etc.),
3. gear - as far as I know, there is no gear behind the motor, the disc is mounted directly to the motor shaft (?)
4.the dial itself is also good as if it were large, the largest I found on the Allegro has a fi 700 mm and costs about PLN 200

the same device without automation, the dial rotated by Mr. Zenek with a wajha
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF7aYVwi7Uw&feature=related

ad.1. The power, judging from the cutting speed and taking into account the thickness of the kerf (about 4mm), is probably about 10kW.
ad.2. Probably the mounting of the shield must be "hidden" in the shield
ad.3. Certainly the disc is not mounted directly on the motor shaft. Thus, there must be an angular gear with the possibility of turning the head during full revolutions.
ad.4. 700mm blade is enough with this solution to cut square timber max. approx. 300x300mm

marcingeneral how wide are your belt drive pulleys? I was thinking about replacing them with pulleys from the washing machine, which are ridiculously cheap compared to yours

can someone tell me how the hub was mounted to the axle (here is an example photo)
http://www.diybandmill.com/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=13&g2_itemId=5522

hub on axle?
buy yourself a bridge .. eg from a polonaise or something that is cheap. beetle or something.
take apart, and you have the driveshafts with the hubs on the end
buy yourself 2 bearings and drive the driveshaft down
means one bearing will already be but buy 2 the same with mounting

farmazon3000 wrote:

marcingeneral how wide are your belt drive pulleys? I was thinking about replacing them with pulleys from the washing machine, which are ridiculously cheap compared to yours

The diameter of my wheels is 58cm. The wheels from the washing machine are about 30 cm.
I'm not sure if the aluminum wheels from the washing machine will last.
The tension of the cutting band is considerable.
The wheels of the washing machine are also not balanced, which reduces the life of the bearings.
If you want to significantly reduce construction costs, use, for example, hubs from the rear axle of Golf 1 (full on each road) and temporary wheels on solid rubbers.
The turner will roll you such access roads and you can balance them on vulcanization.
And to work. I am curious about the effects.

Dear colleague marcingeneral ...

... my eyes have a diameter of 48cm and I'm even sure of it because I have the same wheels.

marcingeneral wrote:

The diameter of my wheels is 58cm. The wheels from the washing machine are about 30 cm.

I meant width, not diameters - the wheels from the washing machine seem narrower than yours and may turn out to be too narrow for a tape like yours (unless you want to use a narrow band just right)

marcingeneral wrote:

If you want to significantly reduce construction costs, use, for example, hubs from the rear axle of Golf 1 (full on each road) and temporary wheels on solid rubbers.
The turner will roll you such access roads and you can balance them on vulcanization.
And to work. I am curious about the effects.

I'm going to do that too, I'm just completing parts and tools, just tell me what was this turning about ??

in my opinion, the easiest and cheapest way is to do as above from the rear vw golf hubs (I have one), and from toddler wheels .. you can buy pennies for pennies
for now, I am completing parts, because I also want to do such a miracle

With rolling, my point was that the surface of such a driveway should be flat and smooth. So that the contact surface of the rubber with the tape provides the greatest possible grip.

I will add my few "pennies" to the topic ... I made a chain saw on the STIHL guide ... the kerf which my colleagues say is 4.5 mm, and I rub at least 12 m3 in 10 hours ... the engine I had was 7 , 5 kw but I used 15 kw because then the feed speed reaches "walking with a child in a stroller ..."

At 9 meters, I cut 30cm wide fabric that I wrapped around a 15 "car tire.
I measure the finished products with a caliper and I have correctness up to 0.1 mm after cutting ...
The stihl 110cm guide costs 240 PLN gross and I have not replaced it yet and I have "a few" m3 behind me ...
I have two chains ... one costs PLN 145 gross ... one sharpening for one working day (10-12h)
The only pain ... the tree must be perfect, but it is perfectly cleaned (washed or stripped)
For 20 m3, I had 30 liters of oil that slowly flows into the original hole in the STIHL sword and the entire chain is greasy
These are the answers to the questions bothering some people if they wanted to make such a sawmill
I did and it costs about PLN 3,000-4,000
For now, I push it myself and I weigh 80 kg and I resist gently ... it goes beautiful ...

greetings

Hello, I have a question why when cutting the saw runs away and the material is wavy.

as far as I know, there may be a lot of reasons, e.g.

- badly divorced
- not sharpened or badly sharpened
- too fast feed
- too loose
- insufficient cooling and deforms under the influence of temperature

it is so only in my opinion from my point of view which does not have to be completely truthful

ap47 wrote:

Hello, I have a question why when cutting the saw runs away and the material is wavy.

To what bulinek wrote, I would like to add that it may also be the cause of improperly positioned guide rollers.

greetings

I mean, I did not write that rollers or rails can be crooked because it is the basis for talking about cutting a tree at all ...

every mm on the rail is wrong, miracles come out when rotating the tree ...

in addition, any play in the roller bearings or damaged or worn bearings are errors ...

still nothing big happens when you cut the top, turn it and then go to the bottom to the boards, everything is twisted but in one direction ... and when it turns, for example, at the rafters, miracles come out ...

another reason may be supporting the tree, that one "goat" is crooked in relation to the other and each one is in a different direction in relation to the belt ...

There are dozens of reasons for the tape measure ...

Thanks for the hint, the sawmill is new, so the rollers are ok and other things, I'm just learning to cut, and looking for the cause of my mistakes, probably cutting too long with a saw that is already blunt, at the beginning of the cut it is ok, later it gets worse .
I have one more question, which saws are best to use, e.g. for cutting pine etc. (soft wood), how long to cut, when to sharpen etc.

then look at the setting of the saw, tension, cooling, since at the beginning it's good ...

as far as I know, the saw after cutting, i.e. after cutting 40 - 60 minutes, should 'lie down' for over 12 hours and recover, so to speak ... this is writing based on what my friend told me ...

when it comes to determining the time, it's hard to say ... if the tree was dragged on the sand, then after the first meter the saw may be ready for sharpening ...

and the pine is often not as soft as it might seem ... I had a few blocks (3-4) which is really like no pine ... a hard tree ... even though it doesn't make much difference to me on a chain saw, I still felt that it goes wrong like the others ...

for example, I had a block that was over 70 cm long and it was going really nice ... and I got a 35-cm pine which was a big problem ...

what I wrote about the tape about the problems, I rely only on the 'external' sentence and not on my experiences ... I would like to emphasize it

Saws should be set up every 3 - 4 sharpening, depending on the saw. Sharpening from 30 minutes (continuous cutting), and in practice the saws should be changed once every 1 hour. I recommend stocking up on a few pieces, to throw the blunt one immediately on the sharpener, and on the new one, wipe it over and over again.


mamba99(_at_)wp.pl
(Band sawmill project)

Hello, I wanted to know how much wood is roughly sawn on one saw 1.1 / 35/4005

andrzej2504 wrote:

Hello, I wanted to know how much wood is roughly sawn on one saw 1.1 / 35/4005

Hello.
It all depends on the hardness of the wood you are sawing and its cleanliness.
Well, I don't know if you ask how long one tape will last until it is not cut at all, or if it will dull after what time?
I can write from my so far short experience, but on one tape I rub about 3 pcs of spruce (fi 35 cm) with a length of 4 m per hour (if I cut boards, as for logs, less cuts, e.g. 7 pcs) and put a new tape on a this rests and then on the sharpener.
There are microcracks on the tapes when you go too long and cut for too long. Sometimes the tapes break too.
My neighbor has a sawmill without a clock measuring the tension of the belt, so he never knows how tightly the belt is pulled and his belts often break.

greetings

Hello, I wanted to know how much wood is roughly sawn on one saw 1.1 / 35/4005


I meant how many m2 saws break.

andrzej2504 wrote:

I meant how many m2 saws break.

Hello.
I use it for my own needs, not for profit. I don't know exactly how long the belts in sawmills can withstand, but none of them has broken yet. We'll see in the spring when the next cut begins.
I can only write that I have already sharpened the tapes 3 times.

greetings

andrzej macioł wrote:

Hello, for a few months I have been collecting materials for such a sawmill I already have wheel profiles, tape and motors, I still miss the end switches because I can see that you have a request if you could chew more photos of the slope and on the other hand, because it seems to me that there is a clock next to the left wheel what is it when I start my sawmill and send it based on your acha what is your engine power I have to carry 0.8kw 800 revs belt tension 4kw1400 revolutions for 2kw feed 800 revolutions

Hello.
This timer is a hydraulic belt tensioner. Without it, it is impossible to choose a good tension and the saws will break faster as a result.
The engines that I used are:
belt drive 4 kW and 1400 rpm
hoisting drive 0.95 kW and 1400 rpm - revolutions reduced by a flywheel from an automatic washing machine.
For me, there are no limit switches because there is no mechanical feed.

I cut it for my own needs, so the manual feed is enough for me. There is another advantage of this solution.
When sawing hard wood, sometimes you have to slow down during the feed so that the tape does not ripple.
In the case of a mechanical advance, the saw will always cut into the material at the same speed, and yet the parameters of the hardness of the wood are different.
This can be solved by using more complicated control systems, but this is a higher driving school.
For starting, a star / delta switch should be used, and a right / left switch for lifting.
As soon as I am with my parents (Trak is stationed there) I will take more photos and post on the forum.
I greet and wish you a successful construction.
Marcin