Band sawmill, horizontal. 4kW belt drive.

thanks when I put it together, I will throw it for a look and this tensioner is original or made

andrzej macioł wrote:

and this tensioner is original or made

Hello.
The tensioner is original. Available for purchase.

your head frame structure is not properly made, there should be the main frame and then the covers. my project of a level sawmill will be released soon.

bendaw wrote:

your head frame structure is not properly made, there should be the main frame and then the covers. my project of a level sawmill will be released soon.

Hello.

This is probably a mistake because I haven't put the pictures with the covers yet. It was someone else who showed his sawmill on this topic.
My covers are mounted independently of the frame head.

greetings
Marcin

(' ') sorry !!!

Added after 20 [minutes]:

bendaw wrote:

(' ') sorry !!!

mistake I looked the wrong way
as you will have
questions are hit like smoke
I am a self-taught builder and
I have built a bit.

Buddy bulineek,

the wood comes out wavy because you have a badly "screened", or divorced saw, and you cut too quickly. When I forget to open my teeth after sharpening, the oak plank comes out like the waves of the Danube. Teeth are bent like this: straight, left, right, straight, left, right, straight. When the saw is sharp, divorced and stretched (16-18 MPa), the block cuts faster than walking. If you would like photos of my frame saw sharpener, please write to PW.

To the author of the project:

Is this 4kW motor too weak? What's your belt speed?
And as for the speed of travel, depending on the hardness of the wood, I use an inverter with a potentiometer, when it is too hard, I simply slow down the speed with the potentiometer. The wood is not wavy.

buddy dickens1 I have no problems with divorcing the saw because I do not have a band sawmill but a chain saw, read exactly who has and what problem :)

greetings

A car gearbox can be used to drive the posówu with success.

OK, my oversight But it will be useful for posterity

I will take this opportunity to connect to the topic.
I'm going to build such a device for my own needs, but so far I'm in a bind, because I don't know how to go about it. I think I searched the entire internet and did not find any specific information, plans or even manuals for this machine. As a model, I set myself a sawmill from the wood mizer lt 15 series and I would like the final results of my work to be similar to this sawmill.
Do people who are interested in this topic have any information on how to buy such a toy? So far I have only managed to collect the 460 diameter wheels, a pulley, and I will still have an engine. I am curious what profiles the bed is made of and what dimensions it should have. If you are able to help me, please do so.

If you have no idea how to go about it, I advise you to give up construction. It's a pity for the money, and you will not be satisfied with the effect. You better look for a used one. But if you have any idea about the mechanics, go to someone in the area who has such a saw, take photos, videos (I did it last year) and then I drew a plan of the entire device (head in 1: 1 scale) so as to avoid the largest possible the number of design errors (they cannot all be avoided).

maybe not quite the place for this, but I suggest you consider what I will write ... now I wonder if a band saw or chain saw is justified to the end ...

maybe he would improve a single-sided edger ... they are all-inclusive for PLN 15,000 but they have only 9 cm of cutting height and it is technically possible to cut, for example, 25 cm without major problems, but do not use a motor such as a mnik with direct transmission, but on the basis of a roller and then when buying saws with a diameter of 600 mm, which costs between 250-350 PLN and the kerf makes 2.5mm because that's what widia has, we have about 520mm in diameter after subtracting the size of the socket in the bearing and dividing it gives us 260mm of cuts, which is a lot ...

so we process the top and bottom on the sawmill and then transfer it to this "edger" and then we fly as we want and the maintenance costs are soooooooooooooo bad for us and the saw is maintenance-free ...


it is worth considering ...

Hello
I'm going to build a tape drive and I'm wondering which is the better motor I'm going to give 4kw, but I'm wondering if the engine revs 1400 or maybe 2880? or something like that? and do you have any gear from the engine, i.e. between the motor and the tape drive?
or the rorka which also holds the tape, this movable handle, what is the break between her and the tape?

In my opinion, the 4 kW motor is a bit too small for such a device, the number of engine revolutions depends on the gear you use (the size of the pulleys), but you must remember not to exceed the maximum cutting speed for the saws used (usually it is about 30 m / s. )
the bandsaw is guided through these rollers in the sawn wood, so there must be no gap or the boards will be wavy and uneven!

Oh, thanks for the information. How can you calculate the speed of the saw or what gear ratio you have used?

Hello
The speed of the saw is given on a given saw and depends on its diameter. Larger Diameter - Lower Speed. This is the max. speed which should not be exceeded. If you have an old saw with unreadable data, someone on the electrode posted tables with approximate diameters and speeds of the saws.
Knowing the saw speed and the engine speed, you can calculate the gear.
examples: 1400 rpm engine saw 2800 is a gear increasing 2: 1 (on the motor, the larger wheel on the saw is smaller), but you lose power, moment. Motor 2800 saw 2800 gear 1: 1 you only lose the efficiency of the gear (slip).

Or maybe anyone else has any ideas for making wheels for a sawmill? The original ones are very expensive, and the car wheels do not appeal to me.

and you can not make extra pulleys, and push a belt on them, so that the friction is greater, and tape on it?

You can always make some extra money, only the question is how and whether it will be good. Here you need to make the wheel quite precisely so that it does not have runout. I have no idea what to do with it.

quite precisely - on a lathe, then possibly balance it (I just don't know where this can be done) ..
and material for such a thing can be found on the scrap, if you find it
I once saw round steel cuttings that would have been used after being rolled

it could be and from sheet metal, but what is the thickness of the sheet 10mm could be enough or not? 20 would probably be enough. A piece of metal will come out, but when it accelerates it will be more difficult to stop. I wonder how with the durability of such a wheel. The main point is that it does not wince, if it does not bend, it cannot do much harm to such a wheel. The turnover is probably not there so that it could not withstand it.

Theoretically, all this can be supplemented, but the question is, will it be profitable?
After all the rehearsals, it will come out that the "original" ones will be cheaper.
I once saw casting molds for frame wheels and "raw" castings on the Allegro. It must be remembered, however, that the machining of such a wheel will not be easy due to its dimensions and the required accuracy of execution.

That's right, maybe it's better to buy used, maybe new, maybe do. I asked about other options for making the wheel to find out what is the most profitable. The cheapest ones are probably cars, but as I wrote, they don't convince me ...

I also used to think about a sawmill with a friend who had a lot of forest but he is not among us. My wheels are covered with rubber, about 500mm, I do not remember exactly. with spare wheels from cars, such as rubber without air, after rolling it will be cheap and probably good.

I have been interested in such a saw for a long time, but due to the chronic lack of time, I am not able to make the construction myself. I will buy the entire head and only the frame will be made.
As for the control, I will also do it myself. I just have a question, maybe someone knows where to buy ready-made drivers for cutting thickness like in the picture

Hello, I have been following the topic with interest for several months. A month ago I bought a horizontal band sawmill for a light renovation, namely it was unused for a long time. There is a belt drive pulley to be repaired. The sawmill is "self-made", but very thoughtfully and carefully made - including limit switches of the head, with a drive and electric lifting of the head. I haven't started it yet, I have to go for the tracks, but I lubricate, maintain - bring it to a working condition. I'll throw photos (I don't have a camera yet), I'm a layman in the topic, I've never seen a working sawmill - as much as in the movies and internet knowledge. However, I have a question regarding the mounting of the guide rollers - how must they be positioned in relation to the cutting band. Whether the belt is to run on rollers or just slightly guide the belt, I understand that they must be level with the track. Thank you in advance for the information, I will probably have more questions as the work progresses. Greetings.

in the photo you can already see the selbit brand driver. ISP 07 NT with Magnetic Tape. selbit is from Poland. check on google

I found
thanks

and tell me because the manual for it shows a rotary encoder, which will be better magnetic tape or encoder

Hello
Maybe everything turned out fine, but for me the security covers are missing. Someone put their hand to it, you will create a problem for yourself . My guess is that there is no emergency stop switch for some kind of contactor, etc. The rest of the structure looks as it looks. Likewise, the costs of welding and parts certainly did not amount to PLN 7,000 especially since you used a lot of your own parts. In the photo above, the one with the screw jack in the profile has something inserted in it, so it did not come out very accurately. greetings

Gryszka B wrote:

and tell me because the manual for it shows a rotary encoder, which will be better magnetic tape or encoder

I suggest you use a rotary encoder: no dirt (dust) gets into it.
In the case of a magnetic tape, it would have to be kept perfectly clean all the time, which is practically impossible when wiping wood.

Added after 11 [minutes]:

jantar2005 wrote:

I made a similar mistake using the steel / steel guide + lubrication.
Unfortunately, the grease scrupulously catches the sawdust from the air and after two days the guide profile is completely cleaned (worn out) of grease.
Every two days I have to remove the old grease mixed with sawdust and apply fresh grease.
It is not too time-consuming, but it is better to get rid of this problem using, for example, plastic / Teflon plates that run dry.

I have a request for my colleague Jantar2005: could he present the mechanism for adjusting the distance between the guide rollers more precisely?
1. I am interested in whether the arm is guided on e.g. 4 wheels (2 over the shoulder and 2 under the arm)?
2. How is the stiffness and vibration of such a beam?
3. How was the system of keeping the beam in position solved (so that it does not move to the left or right)?
4. Are the rollers perfectly level with the bottom of the driving wheels or are they holding the saw slightly below the level of the driving wheels?