Bosch Condenser Tumble Dryer: Comparing WTW85460PL Heat Pump Model and Conventional Options

I want to buy BOSCH WTW85460PL. Someone has? Any disadvantages? How is it working? Thanks

Hello. I have read the entire thread and it must be admitted that it is a huge source of knowledge about dryers. Of course, like most people here, I also plan to buy a dryer (it's good that dryer users also visit here, otherwise it would be bad ). I live in a block of flats and the size of the bathroom is not great. I would like to put the dryer on the washing machine and build it in a wardrobe. From what most write here, dryers without a heat pump are better, but they give off a large amount of heat to the environment. Therefore, placing it in an enclosed wardrobe is not advisable (or maybe some of you know a way to safely enclose it and ensure its proper conditions for proper functioning? Can a heat pump dryer be built? It seems that since it gives off less heat, I think so. Maybe some of you have a built-in dryer and you already have experience in this matter. best regards

The dryers are not intended to be built-in

Baby boom wrote:

Hello. I have read the entire thread and it must be admitted that it is a huge source of knowledge about dryers. Of course, like most people here, I also plan to buy a dryer (it's good that dryer users also visit here, otherwise it would be bad ). I live in a block of flats and the size of the bathroom is not great. I would like to put the dryer on the washing machine and build it in a wardrobe. From what most write here, dryers without a heat pump are better, but they give off a large amount of heat to the environment. Therefore, placing it in an enclosed wardrobe is not advisable (or maybe some of you know a way to safely enclose it and ensure its proper conditions for proper functioning? Can a heat pump dryer be built? It seems that since it gives off less heat, I think so. Maybe some of you have a built-in dryer and you already have experience in this matter. best regards

Built-in is only exhaust.

a dryer without a heat pump cannot be built-in as hot air flows from the back through the back. If you block it, it won't dry.

I don't know about the pump because I don't have it, so I don't comment

I have a fairly simple matter. I think that I draw the correct conclusions from this thread, but I would ask for a correction if I misunderstood something:
in a classic condenser dryer, condensation takes place on an exchanger cooled with external air. If it's + 20 degrees C outside, the dryer stands on a washing machine (heat) working underneath it, and there is also a gas stove in the room that heats the water from time to time (also hot pipes and the tank), despite the great ventilation - open door to the garden, possibly a draft through the garage, the temperature will not drop below that + 20-25 degrees. And this means that there will be practically no drying? The matter of electricity consumption to heat the heater to a very high temperature, I do not mention it for the moment.
I understand that in a heat pump dryer the range of external temperatures is higher, up to 35 degrees C? So it is also possible to dry on summer days, instead of on a "rope"?
The dryer is mainly used for baby clothes and towels, but it works all the time. So does the washing machine. and today a classic dryer at outside temperatures above 15 degrees C and the amount of washing and drying is basically impossible. Will replacing it with a heat pump model solve this problem?
How much rest should be between subsequent drying cycles in both types of dryer?

Michaelen wrote:

And this means that there will be practically no drying?

It will dry you. This type of condenser dryer without a heat pump works perfectly in summer when it is, for example, over 30 degrees outside. I use this dryer myself all year round.

Michaelen wrote:

How much rest should be between subsequent drying cycles in both types of dryer?

There is no such parameter for mine. It can dry all the time.

Thanks for the quick information.
Mine, Gorenje, D62 .... got out of breath 5 years ago. A year ago, it had a crash, perhaps caused by not cleaning the filters frequently enough, perhaps due to other problems. Although the website has brought her to a like new condition, the user, the person who rents the premises, still has reservations. We survived the winter, and now, when it was warm before April 1, the topic was revived. We called a technician from Gorenje. He found that everything is OK, but it is exploited too often. It does not have time to "cool down", and already has another portion. The washing machine is also 6 kg, and after all, things from the washing machine are heavier than before washing. Therefore, according to the recommendations of the technician, such 6 kg of laundry is divided into 2 parts. The previous damage was to the bearing and apron, which apparently does not happen, hence the recommendation. If the washing machine is operated twice a day, drying requires at least 3 cycles. During working hours. Opening the door and ventilating the room doesn't help much either.
He, and once an "independent" expert, recommended a break between drying after min. 1 h. So 3 drying times in 9 hours is unlikely to be done ... Well, they both claimed that the break is a normal thing, and that it is not described to her because it is a device for home use and no one predicts that someone may want to dry again and again.
Therefore, I am asking about these parameters. From what Maras77 wrote two pages earlier, a heat pump dryer would work better in such a room. Mine has a working range from 0-25 degrees Celsius. Those with heat pumps are usually 5-35 degrees C. Hence, among others my question.

Michaelen wrote:

Mine, Gorenje, D62 .... got out of breath 5 years ago. A year ago, it had a crash, perhaps caused by not cleaning the filters frequently enough, perhaps due to other problems. Although the website has brought her to a like new condition, the user, the person who rents the premises, still has reservations. We survived the winter, and now, when it was warm before April 1, the topic was revived. We called a technician from Gorenje. He found that everything is OK, but it is exploited too often. It does not have time to "cool down", and already has another portion. The washing machine is also 6 kg, and after all, things from the washing machine are heavier than before washing. Therefore, according to the recommendations of the technician, such 6 kg of laundry is divided into 2 parts. The previous damage was to the bearing and apron, which apparently does not happen, hence the recommendation. If the washing machine is operated twice a day, drying requires at least 3 cycles. During working hours. Opening the door and ventilating the room doesn't help much either.
He, and once an "independent" expert, recommended a break between drying after min. 1 h. So 3 drying times in 9 hours is unlikely to be done ... Well, they both claimed that the break is a normal thing, and that it is not described to her because it is a device for home use and no one predicts that someone may want to dry again and again.
Therefore, I am asking about these parameters. From what Maras77 wrote two pages earlier, a heat pump dryer would work better in such a room. Mine has a working range from 0-25 degrees Celsius. Those with heat pumps are usually 5-35 degrees C. Hence, among others my question.

We hardly dry clothes outside. Even in summer - things are pleasantly soft from the dryer, so we prefer to dry in it. Plus, it's just more convenient. Usually, we do washing and drying at the weekend, so several washes and dryings go in a row - often for 3, although there were also 5 (washing things after trips).
As for your service technicians. It's getting harder and harder to get a good service. I have a Hoover washing machine and dryer, so rather medium-sized, and certainly not outstanding, and works calmly on hot summer days
As for the heat pump dryer, do not count on the fact that you may have a closed door in the room. It will also heat the bathroom because it is not 100% closed cycle. Most of the energy it gets from an electrical outlet is converted into heat :-)

Michaelen wrote:

. Mine has a working range from 0-25 degrees Celsius.

Insert a picture of the user manual page with this data. You have not specified what model of dryer you have, there is nothing to refer to. Higher temperature may extend the drying time, but we somehow didn't notice it.

Since the photo was out of focus, I did not have the exact name of the model at hand. But now I found a warranty card: SPK2, mod. D62225, art. No. 101872. Normal condenser dryer for 6 kg. When replacing, the service technician changed the rollers from model to 7 kg? Because maybe there is a problem here that you have to do 3 dryings out of 2 washes. According to the user, drying in the cotton program is not completely dry.
As I wrote. There was a service technician. I understand that he checked the cleanliness (he complained a year ago that it was dirty, which I agree with). I understand that he checked the humidity sensor - there was a wife and user during his visit and he was OK. He thinks the machine just won't "perform". Change a service technician?

Michaelen wrote:

Thanks for the quick information.
Mine, Gorenje, D62 .... got out of breath 5 years ago. A year ago, it had a crash, perhaps caused by not cleaning the filters frequently enough, perhaps due to other problems. (...) We called a technician from Gorenje. He found that everything is OK, but it is exploited too often. It does not have time to "cool down", and already has another portion. The washing machine is also 6 kg, and after all, things from the washing machine are heavier than before washing. Therefore, according to the recommendations of the technician, such 6 kg of laundry is divided into 2 parts. The previous damage was to the bearing and apron, which apparently does not happen, hence the recommendation. If the washing machine is operated twice a day, drying requires at least 3 cycles. During working hours. Opening the door and ventilating the room doesn't help much either.
He, and once an "independent" expert, recommended a break between drying after min. 1 h. So 3 drying times in 9 hours is unlikely to be done ... Well, they both claimed that the break is a normal thing, and that it is not described to her because it is a device for home use and no one predicts that someone may want to dry again and again.
Therefore, I am asking about these parameters. From what Maras77 wrote two pages earlier, a heat pump dryer would work better in such a room. Mine has a working range from 0-25 degrees Celsius. Those with heat pumps are usually 5-35 degrees C. Hence, among others my question.

It looks like you have a failed dryer model, or an unlucky one - you experience some drama with it.
I have never heard of splitting the load into parts, never split, and sometimes after returning from vacation there were 4 continuous drying lines, without interruptions. Usually we do two dryings one after the other.
There is no need to cool down in a condenser dryer - the drum and the casing heat up, and it is better to put it in a warm one. Waiting for me to cool down is heresy. What for? It will be hot again as soon as it is turned on.

There is also no apron in the dryer - there is a felt gasket. When it was damaged together with the bearing, IMO had to fix it mechanically - maybe sand got in, maybe some dust, or a roll fell and the felt was torn. I additionally lubricate this felt with silicone grease (according to the service manual).

Dividing the load, because it is too heavy - it must be a clunky type of dryer if you have to do that. The dryer drum is light, slow-running and not subject to high forces. Besides, it rests on rollers.

As for work in small rooms - the dryer is a closed system - it produces as much heat to the environment as it gets from the network - there is no phase transformation that would permanently accumulate heat - water as it got in the form of a liquid in the washing - in the same condition goes into the container - liquid.
Therefore, a model with a heat pump will cope better in such conditions - it will produce less heat and the condensing cooling is the compressor evaporator instead of the ambient air.

And if the dryer dries worse - check the heaters (e.g. with a wattmeter, whether the dryer works on two heating levels).
There may also be something contaminated - dust in fans, air ducts. Or something cracked and the recirculating air mixed with the cooling air.

It is also worth wiping the drum from the inside with citric acid - it helps, if there is a problem with moisture detection.
And it is necessary to set the correct conductivity (conductivity) of the water in the menu.
If you have the option of setting the dryer menu in the dryer menu (the washing machine must have the highest possible speed), then set it to a smaller one there - it will dry better (the drying cycle is longer).


Extra hint: When washing with synthetic or delicate programs, the washing machine spins at a slower speed and the dryer has much more water to dry.

Many thanks for the next hints. :)

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It looks like you have a failed dryer model, or an unlucky one - you experience some drama with it.
I have never heard of splitting the load into parts, never split, and sometimes after returning from vacation there were 4 continuous drying lines, without interruptions. Usually we do two dryings one after the other .

Here they go 4, one after the other. Every day.

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There is no need to cool down in a condenser dryer - the drum and the casing heat up, and it is better to put it in a warm one. Waiting for me to cool down is heresy. What for? And so right after turning it on, it will be hot again [/ i

.

As the name suggests, moisture from hot and humid air condenses on the cooler element. If the room is about 30-35 degrees, despite the ventilation, because at the same time there is a washing machine, a dryer and a 24 kW gas stove that heats the water, and the pipes distributing it are also in this room, then the cooler element is how many degrees? Will there be anything to condense on it?
In my manual it is written as a bull, room temperature 0-25 degrees C, Bosch, for condensing with heat pump it gives 5-35 degrees C. Electrolux wrote back to me - at room temperature. So that the temperature of the room around 35 degrees C is becoming a problem.

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[i] There is also no apron in the dryer - there is a felt gasket. When it was damaged together with the bearing, IMO had to fix it mechanically - maybe sand got in, maybe some dust, or a roll fell and the felt was torn. I additionally lubricate this felt with silicone grease (according to the service manual) .

The felt seal and rollers are damaged. The seal went into ladders. The reason for the damage was insufficient cleaning of the elements by the user, or maybe something else? For 2 years, with another user, it was OK. After another year, this time of constant use by someone else, the problem with the apron started. There is not a word in my user manual about apron lubrication

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Dividing the load, because it is too heavy - it must be a clunky type of dryer if you have to do that. The dryer drum is light, slow-running and not subject to high forces. Besides, it rests on rollers.

The washing machine is 6 kg. Dry as I understand. You wrote yourself that when you tried the dryers you put about 3.5 kg wet and you had a kilo less dry. The washing machine underneath, also by Gorenje, is also 6 kg. Dry, i.e. wet, can weigh about 8 kg. I did not weigh. Hence, as a charge for the dryer, it should be divided. It seemed logical to me.

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As for working in small spaces- the dryer is a closed system - it produces as much heat to the environment as it gets from the mains - there is no phase change there that would permanently accumulate heat - water as it got in the form of a liquid in the wash - in the same state goes to the container - liquid .

Exactly, but we have condensation. Water condensation, also in the form of steam, on a cold element. More than a phase change, it is about creating conditions for such condensation in a specific place, i.e. creating conditions for the dew point to be on the surface from which we receive water.

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Therefore, a model with a heat pump will cope better in such conditions - it will produce less heat and the condensing cooling is the compressor evaporator instead of the ambient air. .

I also came to such conclusions .. Except that the cooling process also takes place under certain external conditions. Eg up to 35 degrees C outside. It's still better than the 25 ° C written in my manual for a condenser dryer with an electric heater. Surprisingly, yesterday I was checking the manual of some new Bosch with a heater. It is written 5-35 degrees C.

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And if the dryer dries worse - check the heaters (e.g. with a wattmeter, whether the dryer works on two heating levels) .

The service technician should have checked it. I understand he did it. The dryer does not indicate any errors. The problem is drying the cotton. Does it not work on 2 levels for other materials?

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There may also be something contaminated - dust in fans, air ducts. Or something cracked and the recirculating air mixed with the cooling air .

She was thoroughly cleaned. A year ago, she spent a month in the service. Immediately after her return from the service, the user also had reservations, and when it got colder, the problems disappeared. Then I did not find any cracks or fractures. Neither is the service. Note as above.

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It is also worth wiping the drum from the inside with citric acid - it helps, if there is a problem with moisture detection.
And it is necessary to set the correct conductivity (conductivity) of water in the menu .

It's probably worth doing. But since the user (basically her Malaysian servant) does not want to clean the filter every drying ...

Quote:

If you have the option of setting the dryer menu in the dryer menu (the washing machine must have the highest possible speed), then set it to a smaller one there - it will dry better (the drying cycle is longer).
Additionalhint: When washing with synthetic or delicate programs, the washing machine spins at a lower speed and the dryer has much more water to dry .

There may be a clou here. For example, set a washing program with 800 speed on a spin. It's just that if the humidity sensor works, it should extend the drying time ...

Basically, the matter concerns the replacement of the dryer with another. The user is not satisfied with it, and we, at the suggestion of the service, believe that it is operational only because of the place (the boiler and the hot water tank next to it) and the washing machine working under it) that is too overloaded. We are afraid that replacing it with one with a heat pump will not do much, because the ladies will not clean it either, and the so-called auto-cleaning, as it results from other threads, here on the Electrode, does not work 100%. And there is also the question of who will cover about PLN 3,000 ... What if the new one turns out that in these "hot" conditions it will not work either? Hence my search. But I will try one with a heat pump, as long as I come to an agreement on its financing (e.g. half and half).

Indeed the form was hard to read, but only after paying attention did I find the formatting. I didn't find him before . Thanks again and ask for technical comments.

I am the unhappy owner of the famous electrolux with a heat pump. Reading the forum, I can see that this is standard. The dryer dries in the cotton cupboard program for more than 3 hours, and when finished, the drum is so hot that you can burn yourself. Drum temperature error has popped up only once so far, drying 3-4 in a row. We do laundry only on Saturday, sometimes Saturday and Sunday, so there can be 4-5 dryings a day in a row, maybe with small breaks.

Is there any way to repair the dryer before it is completely annihilated? Of course, not taking into account the replacement of the heat pump for about PLN 2,000, with the initial cost of the dryer PLN 2,500.

Just the opposite was true here. My heroine is a Gorenje dryer, without a heat pump but with an electric heater.
In general, the principle of condenser dryers is quite simple. Hot air falls on wet things, takes the moisture with it to continue to the cool part, where it is supposed to condense the moisture. So round and round.

In dryers with an electric heater, we heat this air very high, maybe even up to 70 degrees C. The part where moisture is to condense is warmer than its surroundings. If the room is small, the dryer (and possibly other devices) will cause the room to be around 30-35 degrees C. The condensation process stops - the temperature difference is too small. This is my problem.
In the case of a heat pump, it looks similar, but there are 2 parallel processes. One takes place in the air that dries things, and the other in the cooling and heating medium system, i.e. phase changes. Here, the drying air is supposed to heat up to about 50-55 degrees C. Thus, it heats up the room less. At the same time, at such a temperature, it should be possible to transform the medium - vapor, into a liquid - heat dissipation. The process still depends on the temperature difference to keep the evaporator working as needed. The air is cooled with the moisture from the clothes, because the water is supposed to condense on the cold evaporator - the heat takes the factor. By choosing the right parameters in a heat pump dryer, this process occurs better.
But you don't necessarily see. Especially after repeated drying.
Because it should be so that heat is removed from the hot air returning from the dryer, and water is condensed. The evaporated factor goes to the dryer, and there, while heating the dryer, it turns into a liquid itself. This part of you, as you write yourself, is overheating. Perhaps we should consider some ventilation in this part? Or maybe some drum heating limiter has just broken = the temperature at the inlet to the drum and the drum, which is too warming up too much = the temperature around it, near the condenser, does not allow the medium to condense?
I don't know the specific pattern, but it seems to me that with frequent drying, the logic goes crazy. Or maybe the amount of refrigerant is bad (as in refrigerators, when the refrigerant is depleted, excessive icing occurs), maybe drying is not provided here as often.
However, I would bet that after each drying or at least every second, the drum should be cooled down to room temperature. Then the logic will return to normal. As long as it's not just busted. Any cold solders?

A decision was made to buy a new dryer. Are the current heat pump models working ok? Is it better to avoid it? The only one I found without a heat pump is: BOSCH WTG 86400PL, no more on the battlefield. The best option would be exhaust air, but there is no such thing.
This Bosch is very energy-intensive, we do an average of 10 washes a week. 52 weeks a year. i.e. 520 dryings x 4.6kwh = 2392kWh. A lot, counting that everything will go in the 2nd tariff, it will be around PLN 480 per year.
Such, for example, BOSCH WTH8520SPL consumes 1.9kWh, so it will come out: 988kWh per year, which gives PLN 200.
(PLN 2,000 without a heat pump with a 5-year warranty, PLN 3,000 with a heat pump and a 5-year warranty)
The difference of PLN 280 will be returned after 3.5 years, so theoretically, we have guarantees and lower power consumption for 1.5 years, but in the case of replacement with new equipment, we have to pay 10% of its value, so only if there is a six-month saving, i.e. none.

Small head; d

KarasPL wrote:

A decision was made to buy a new dryer. Are the current heat pump models working ok? Is it better to avoid it? The only one I found without a heat pump is: BOSCH WTG 86400PL, no more on the battlefield. The best option would be exhaust air, but there is no such thing.
This Bosch is very energy-intensive, we do an average of 10 washes a week. 52 weeks a year. i.e. 520 dryings x 4.6kwh = 2392kWh. A lot, counting that everything will go in the 2nd tariff, it will be around PLN 480 per year.
Such, for example, BOSCH WTH8520SPL consumes 1.9kWh, so it will come out: 988kWh per year, which gives PLN 200.
(PLN 2,000 without a heat pump with a 5-year warranty, PLN 3,000 with a heat pump and a 5-year warranty)
The difference of PLN 280 will be returned after 3.5 years, so theoretically, we have guarantees and lower power consumption for 1.5 years, but in the case of replacement with new equipment, we have to pay 10% of its value, so only if there is a six-month saving, i.e. none.

Small head; d

There are several models without a heat pump.
Search by energy class B and above

https://www.ceneo.pl/Suszarki/Klasa_energetyczna:B,C.htm

As for the power consumption - a lot depends on the spin class of the washing machine.
The worse the washing machine spins, the more profitable it is to take a model with a heat pump.

If the spin speed is 1200 or higher, drying is short and the cost of the heater dryer is not huge.

But beware - washing machines spin more slowly on programs other than cotton.
On wool, they spin up to 400 rpm, so the laundry is dripping with water.

You basically answered that question yourself. It comes out similarly, except that at the beginning the expense is higher. And the chances that the one with the pump will work for more than 5 years is wretched.
Our discussion was more about which dryer will be better suited to summer, in a warm room. It turns out that the one with the heat pump.
However, in summer, drying in a dryer does not make sense, although of course with 10 washes a week, at some point there is not much where to hang it. But hanging the laundry to dry for 3 months a year greatly reduces the cost difference between one type and the other.
An exhaust air dryer makes sense in the USA or southern Spain. Such a NY has the latitude of Rome and in most states, in the summer, "wind" is enough, without heating, to dry the laundry in no time. In our climate, it is a rather poor and expensive idea.

Currently, we have a washing machine and dryer in the attic, in the summer there is a sauna during drying there, and drying one wash alone can take 3 hours. Here, the heating element is probably much better temporarily.

... and as for traditional drying, when there is already a dryer, there is no one willing to put it on a hanger, and taking into account that we only wash at the weekend, there would even be nowhere .. Another thing, who will iron it later . 90% of clothes from the dryer go straight to the wardrobe.

The current electrolux will probably work properly, but in the basement, in the attic, where it is about 25 degrees, unfortunately it does not work, it overheats.

I browsed the given links on the price list, they are single pieces in some smaller stores, generally only this bosch is available now

After reading the entire thread, I decided to buy the BOSCH WTG 86400PL. Altogether, up to 1,700 a lot of choice without a pump. We'll see what will come out of it years later. The set does not include a basket for wool or shoes, or a drain hose
I was supposed to put the dryer in a small 2m x 2m bathroom on a washing machine, but it is currently in the kitchen for a test, and I find that it gives off too much heat to put it in such a small room. The manual says that it works effectively up to 35 degrees outside temperature. The sides of the dryer can heat up to about 50 degrees? well, it's warm, you can warm your coffee. The table top is cool. I did a 6kg wash, a 1000 spin, and put it all in the dryer. 50min program "for ironing" + delicate function and after the end of the program the meter showed 1.20kW. Plug-in electrical meter. I will try to do more energy consumption tests on given programs. I pulled a handful of dust from my clothes from the filter. I didn't smell rubber or anything. Tshirts can be put on immediately. Jeans not yet tested. I also set up a program of cold airing 20 minutes for sweaters from the wardrobe, it probably blew 2 larvae of moles into the filter so it is also worth ventilating what is in the wardrobe for a long time. The touch panel is very sensitive, you can press something when wiping with your hand. The touch feels like a telephone.

cakp wrote:

The set does not include a basket for wool or shoes, or a drain hose

Most condensers don't seem to have an external drain, so why a hose?

Washing machine Dryers
- compressor compressor in heat pumps: cooling, air conditioning and heating, electricity charges bills ...
- Electricity heating of water I do not recommend (couples) because it warms up for a long time and consumes a lot of electricity.
- Gas dryer for clothes , (E.g. LG Gas Dryer, Whirlpool Gas Burner Dryer, Bosch / siemens ...) gas cheap good (Gas propane-butane) , well, it heats up quickly ~ 1 hour 30 minutes, dressed dry (problem: valve failure 3-7 years, electricity heating candles), and consumes little electricity bills.

I am the former owner of an expensive and, according to many opinions, a sensational Electrolux EDH97981W heat pump condenser dryer for almost PLN 3,000, which broke down in less than 3 years. And the heat pump broke down - the cost of replacement is the basis with a compressor - PLN 1,850 + service. I had to throw it out and went back to the exhaust straight. There is only one model available on the market. Honestly, I was naive that I had been tricked by the heat pump earlier. Supposedly, it is supposed to take half the energy, but if you calculate the difference in price, this difference returns after 6 years, so taking into account that the heat pump dryer lasted less than 3 years, it makes no sense to spend this extra money. For the one with a heat pump and humidity sensors, when you put a full load, it dried for over 2 hours. The exhaust air system does this in less than an hour. And the options for ironing or for the wardrobe can be achieved in this straight exhaust, while monitoring the end of drying (damp for ironing, dried warm for the wardrobe). I highly recommend it to anyone who has good ventilation at home. And those who do not have the same, but with the same steam condensation, which takes slightly more current than the exhaust (condensation costs), but is structurally simple as opposed to those with a heat pump. I will never buy an Electrolux heat pump again.
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I am subscribing to the opinion above, I have the same dryer model now 4 years old, after 3 years the inverter module and the control module have fallen, somehow. The repair cost is over PLN 1,000. Also a massacre, and the dryer cost PLN 2,400. The service technician told us that the cost of repairing a compressor, which may also break, is PLN 1500. NIDY MORE ELECTROLUX !!! The dryer was great until the breakdown, quiet, quick and good drying, the room was also heating up contrary to the opinions above, but we were satisfied. But 3 years of use and such a meatball, it's not worth buying this crap. The service technician said that now they do not install fuses between one module and the other, and when one burns, the other flies. If they have such a policy, let no one buy them this crap soon. I FOLLOW EVERYONE BEFORE WAITING MONEY IN THE MUD. Now I am thinking of buying a dryer for just over a thousand without a pump, at least if it breaks down after 3 years, we will save half for another new one

Stansil wrote:

The service technician said that now they do not install fuses between one module and the other, and when one burns, the other flies. If they have such a policy, let no one buy them this crap soon.

Change service technician. Fuses between modules have never been installed because between them there is data transmission via optoisolators via UART.

Change the service company too, because the base costs about PLN 1000. But nobody wants to do it because they are afraid - because you have to disassemble the entire dryer.

The exchanger at the bottom was cleaned?

Hello,

Thank you very much for this thread - he made me quite aware and as he plans to buy a dryer, I have a question as below.

Family of 2 adults with +3 children, the room has 2x2m (no windows), has ventilation, and you can easily connect it there if necessary.

I think about such ventilation :
1) Indesit IDV 75 EU - 850 PLN - is on the indesita website
2) INDESIT IDC 75B EU -1100 PLN - this is not on the indesita website
It looks like 2) this is the NEWER (?) Or older successor from point 1), does anyone know something?

3) Amica WTA14305W 7KG (only 12 months warranty, it is only on the Allegro) - PLN 700 - I do not know if it is worth ... anyone knows something?

and such a condensation:

1) BOSCH WTN86201PL or BOSCH WTN86200PL - ~ PLN 1,500-1600 - a bit quieter (by 3-4 dB than # 1 and # 2) and has a start delay (between 1 and 5 a.m. electricity for 55% of the price, and all Sunday)


I tend to # 1 or # 2 + buy a 5-year warranty.

What do you say ? Thanks for the answers.

To levy:
yes, the exchanger at the bottom was cleaned regularly and it did not help, three years passed nothing happened and suddenly I put the laundry to dry, and nothing here, the display shows the drying time, the droplets are spinning as if everything was ok, but the dryer does not start places. We called the authorized electrolux service, because no one wanted to repair when they heard that it was electrolux, that's the facts. I was surprised and asked why, all the service technicians kept telling me as one man, electrolux has prices for parts from outer space and it is simply not profitable for them, maybe too much of a hassle? I don't know ... Finally, an electrolux service technician came and found the faults as described above and also told about this fuse. I don't know much about electronics, so he could tell us everything. But already on the electrolux hotline they say that for the journey so much, for the diagnosis, you will decide whether to repair it at all, as if they knew in advance that it is no longer worth repairing it, some kind of massacre ... it's better to add PLN 500 to the new one. But what to buy here, Bosch, Whirlpool ?? yes to 1600 without a pump, what do you advise? Apparently, it doesn't matter what company now, because everything is breaking down. You agree with this opinion.

Stansil wrote:

... And in fact, with such service prices, it is better to add PLN 500 to the new one. But what to buy here, Bosch, Whirlpool ?? yes to 1600 without a pump, what do you advise? Apparently, it doesn't matter what company now, because everything is breaking down. You agree with this opinion.

Don't you live near Krakow?

No, I live near Wrocław. Thank you for recommending the dryers. And this indesit for 1100 dries well, the clothes will not be dry? And how with failure rate, maybe someone had or has some time and can comment? I do not have a good place for exhaust air, unfortunately poor ventilation. Would you recommend Bosch WTB 86201 or WTG 86400, how they differ. I can see from the comments on the forum that there are good opinions. But I still wonder.

Added after 2 [minutes]:

And thank you for Electrolux, NEVER AGAIN!

Added after 1 [hours]:

I have just received a full cost estimate for repairing an electrolux dryer. So one module 500, the other similar, it is like a discount, plus a replacement of 180 zlotys plus access 50. Total 1200 for the repair. It's a nightmare I don't know whether to laugh or cry. And tell me if you can buy such modules somewhere by yourself, or are they available apart from electrolux. The service technician told me that if I buy elsewhere, I will not have a warranty, and I will have a bigger one ... year warranty.

Added after 1 [minutes]:

Does it even make sense to play with it, maybe call some other magician, because I do not know if this Lord has correctly diagnosed the cause of the failure.

Another technician. Two modules are not raining at once. Besides, none of them have fuses

Hello, I have an electrolux dryer repair card in front of me.
Error E5E damaged engine module and control module. Do these two modules fall in pairs, or what is it? Maybe someone can explain it to me.