Bosch Condenser Tumble Dryer: Comparing WTW85460PL Heat Pump Model and Conventional Options

It has a steam system and an inverter motor. Apparently it's a plus.
Better to go in the older series 4?
What would you recommend, up to 3,000 Today?

marcin4 wrote:

It has a steam system and an inverter motor. Apparently it's a plus.
Better to go in the older series 4?
What would you recommend, up to 3,000 Today?

It depends on what you need and how much you are willing to pay for additional benefits. I have a comparison between the series 4 and series 8. As for me, the series 4 works OK, but: the series 8 is definitely quieter, mainly due to the quiet generator and the felt mute. Does the inverter motor make a clear difference here? ... the rotation of the drum and the contents still make noise. Steam functions .... for shirts I use a steam station and a hanger, so this function is for individual evaluation. steam programs are also available in series 8. I take the shirt out of the drum and I don't know ... it must be ironed. Generally, the most important thing is filtration. In the 8 series (auto clean) it works reliably, does not require frequent maintenance and there is certainly less lint, which means it is more friendly to clothes. This WQG241AEPL looks like in series 4, so the amount of lint will rather be similar. The starting price for the 8 series is about 4k PLN and there are often promotions for 3.5k PLN and last year and now Bosch was paying back 500 PLN. Series 4 can be bought below 2k PLN. The 6 series will be priced in between.

Hello.
I am considering these two models

Bosch wqg233cepl or wtx87k40pl

I am asking for advice on which of these models is more profitable. I will also consider a model of Electrolux, because I can see that these two brands dominate this topic.

Thanks in advance.

Two years ago I wrote about my purchase of a used dryer without a PC, Miele Novotronic 4960 C for PLN 300. To this day, it works flawlessly and has survived two removals.

I am in favor of electrolux all the time, it must be emphasized that they are at a good price. For 2,000 we have good equipment. I have installed an additional foam filter in mine and I think that it does not clog. I have it for almost 4 years, I dry it 7-10 times a week, and sometimes even more. Let it last 2 more years and, as for me, the equipment will earn for itself and the next one will be elux.

Added after 3 [minutes]:

And some 10 of the same models have been used by my friends or family for several years and also no problems

This and I will ask
I have been using Miele dryers for 15 years (now T8423C, previously I think T486) and the functionality is ok, but what pisses me off is the amount of lint in the house.
We clean the door filters before each drying, and the condenser filter every now and then. The device is in the bathroom, on the washing machine. The bathroom is more or less in the center of the apartment. You can clearly see fluff settling on the air filter and air conditioner filters - after 2-3 weeks the filters are completely clogged. The same with vacuuming - we collect fluff every day in a cyclone settler. Recently, significantly less, because the dryer broke down
And now the question - can modern dryers not litter? The self-cleaning function is often used, but after reading it, it turns out that it is usually a condenser. Do any dryers have I do not know - e.g. a water filter for lint? And above all, how is it done?

Lukrecjusz wrote:

Do any dryers have I do not know - e.g. a water filter for lint?

Maybe there is something I don't know about, but I've never met one like this.

Lukrecjusz wrote:

And now the question - can modern dryers not litter?

The condenser dryer is by definition hermetic, i.e. no air or fluff from the drum is escaping outside the dryer - that's the theory. Where can the leaks occur? In mine, for example, the door was leaky. The gasket did not fit snugly. Nothing was crooked or leaky Simply put, there had to be some minimal gaps.
I fixed it successfully (!) With a rubber or silicone window seal. An additional gasket stuck around the door, soft and thick, made the dryer seal. I think this is the most critical place: in front of the filters and the condenser. Another place where leakage can occur is where warm air is blown into the drum. There I did not seal anything, which would be difficult due to the movement of the drum.

In the Bosch Series 8 AutoClean, the fluff filter can be called wet and is in contact with water at all times. The operation of this is that the fluff trapped in the first part of the filter is rinsed to the second part of the filter which acts as a trap for the fluff. The whole process runs smoothly, i.e. the first part of the filter remains rinsed, clean and ready for the next drying. In the second part, the fluff sticks to the bottom, is kept wet all the time and does not block the air circulation. Of course, the exchanger remains crystal clear.
There is an additional filter in the water container. But there is no problem with cleaning it, as it is most often cleaned with reverse flow when pouring water.

@Lukrecjusz
My first dryer, due to the apartment in a block of flats, is a condensing one with a heat pump, not an evacuation one. I just praise everyone that the apartment is less dusty. The washing machine washes dirt, does not remove fine "threads" and dust. I do not know what kind of filter you have in the door, but in BOSCH and SIEMENS (it is the same) the filter in the door is quite accurate, in google it is "bosch fluff filter". The dryer bought over 3 years ago, series 6, what @Borutka wrote, may be available now in series 6. Flushing the exchanger is good, but the monthly maintenance of the exchanger, be careful not to bend the lamellas (my wife curved them, and I had to play and straighten). In addition, we do not leave the door of the dryer ajar, because we use it every day, and after a year there was a problem with the "stick" at the water pump, easy to "repair", but you had to look for - there are also such topics on the electrode.

If you have more money, you can buy a dryer with what @Borutka mentioned. If you buy with a "fluff filter" then only the first drying you will have to clean each time, then much less often. If you are in a hurry, collect the fluff with your hands. Thorough cleaning of this filter is still rinsing with water, preferably under pressure, e.g. shower, but then it must dry, otherwise it will quickly clog. The dryer signals a clogged filter.

Borutka And how about Bosch with temperature - there were many cases and still people complain that Bosch and Siemens dries at a higher temperature than other heat pump dryers. Is the drum hot or just lukewarm while drying?

Dorilll wrote:

Is the drum hot or just lukewarm while drying?

I have no comparison and I have no reference whether the drum is lukewarm or already hot, because I dealt with the heat pump only with Bosch. But the alleged temperature problems are more of the same fairy tale as the twisting of the charge due to the lack of reverse movements . I remember the day before in a Gorenje conventional dryer that the sheets were twisted. As far as I remember, the manual says that the temperature is increased for the last few minutes of the drying cycle. And that's it ... I don't even know (I don't go into) which direction the drum is turning. The batch is dried as expected. Compared to the Series 4 previously owned, the operating temperature is rather similar. On the other hand, it produces much less fluff.

@Dorilll
I do not complain, but I can write that if you choose the program for the wardrobe, in some cases, when you leave the dried clothes in the drum, the drum is probably warmed up with what it rotates in, like a "bathtub" in the washing machine, at the end even if you set it up 2 hours of rotation so as not to take out the drum immediately and dry clothes are warmer ... you can always set a gentler program or press the feather, or set a reminder on the phone and take it out immediately ;)

in general, I see more like minuses, but I did not have another dryer, in addition, this one is for flushing the exchanger and service things are done once every 3/4 months, not every month as in the manual ...

And how now with Bosch / Siemens heat pumps? I remember that a few years ago there were quite a few posts about stuffing yourself up with fluff. They finally corrected it, are there still problems with it?

But with what "hairs" ?? I already wrote you what filter I have and what and how. Maybe in those of the lowest price levels they are doing something wrong. I am now trying to buy a dishwasher and I know that the cheapest BOSCH has plastic bottoms that nobody recommends.

My point was to eliminate what you call the fluff filter - in Miele it takes up the entire door (coarse) and the bottom of the drum collar (fine). It is recommended to clean them before each cycle and it is justified, because each time we remove a handful of fluff from it.

From what I can see, the AutoClean solutions concern the condenser - in my Miele it looks like this: https://images.app.goo.gl/S47CEejmR3f6jH4Z6 (photo from the net, not mine) and the manufacturer recommends rinsing it in the shower once a month. Practice shows that this interval can be easily extended. I think the design is wonderfully simple and reliable, but it just dawned on me that I have a dryer without a heat pump. If I had a pump, the exchanger would have to be permanently attached :(

All that's left for me to do is seal the door like @freebsd writes. I will let you know what the results are.
Thanks everyone for your help!

zegarek84 wrote:

the drum is probably warmed by what it rotates in, like a "tub" in a washing machine

You will be a bit surprised, but in the dryer the drum is not in any tank, it just works in the air, guided by rollers or a bearing.

Lukrecjusz wrote:

And how now with bosh / siemens heat pumps? I remember that a few years ago there were quite a few posts about stuffing yourself up with fluff. They finally corrected it, are there still problems with it?

It was, is and will be. While some say that additional filters or other miracles will help, I regularly clean all types of heat pump dryers, regardless of model or manufacturer.

Lukrecjusz wrote:

in my Miele it looks like this: https://images.app.goo.gl/S47CEejmR3f6jH4Z6 (photo from the net, not mine) and the manufacturer recommends rinsing it in the shower once a month.

Yes, it is removed in every dryer with a heater, with heat pumps the exchanger cannot technically be removed.

mrice wrote:

zegarek84 wrote:

the drum is probably warmed by what it rotates in, like a "tub" in a washing machine

You will be a bit surprised, but in the dryer the drum is not in any tank, it just works in the air, guided by rollers or a bearing.

yeah ... you will also be a bit surprised ... because the drum is not insulated from the room and the dryer ?? ... because the r718 refrigerant does not work under normal physics ?? - this is also a pro after the posts above, where the "drum" is too hot ... in my profession we use r718 refrigerant in tonnes / cubic / m3 ... heat pump dryer is usually on R290 (google what it is) ... and in r134a cars it is impossible to replace the air conditioning with a mixture of 50% / 50% r290 with r600a - yes, one of my cars has air conditioning on this mixture, and both are powered by a mixture of r290 with r600 without "a" at the end...

zegarek84 wrote:

because the drum is not isolated from the room and the dryer ??

Well, no from the dryer, the only thing that isolates it from the room is the outer casing of the dryer.

zegarek84 wrote:

because the r718 refrigerant does not work under the normal laws of physics ??

How could that make any sense ? The factor is in its system and that's it. The type of refrigerant is important only for the manufacturer and possibly a service technician, if he has to fumble in the circulation system.

mrice wrote:

zegarek84 wrote:

because the drum is not isolated from the room and the dryer ??

Well, no from the dryer, the only thing that isolates it from the room is the outer casing of the dryer.

zegarek84 wrote:

because the r718 refrigerant does not work under the normal laws of physics ??

How could that make any sense ? The factor is in its system and that's it. The type of refrigerant is important only for the manufacturer and possibly a service technician, if he has to fumble in the circulation system.

The refrigerant r718 is water ;)

PS. the drum in the washing machine is also not isolated from the washing machine, it is an integral part of it, to be more precise

zegarek84 wrote:

The refrigerant r718 is water

Hah, indeed, I didn't know that designation.

Still, it does not change the fact that the washing machine vs dryer are completely different constructions, the only thing that is similar in them are housings and dimensions.

zegarek84 wrote:

the drum in the washing machine is also not isolated from the washing machine,

In a way, it is, because it sits in a tank that you won't find in a dryer.

Quick question - does a heat pump dryer require less electricity than a conventional exhaust air dryer?

I was supposed to buy a standard one and I even prepared a separate fuse for it, but it turned out that they would buy a heat pump and it would not fit there - I would probably have to connect to sockets where I either have a TV and a computer or kitchen utensils such as microwaves and an extractor hood.

Will it work, or do I absolutely need a completely separate circuit for the heat pump dryer?

A dryer without a pump consumes approx. 2 kW when the heater is operating. According to the art (above 2kW), it requires a separate line from the switchgear. The dryer with a pump consumes approx. 600W, but the instructions will recommend that you connect without an extension cord or splitter.

Borutka wrote:

According to the art (above 2kW), it requires a separate line from the switchgear.

Art? Lines?

freebsd wrote:

Borutka wrote:

According to the art (above 2kW), it requires a separate line from the switchgear.

Art? Lines?

Art in the sense of proper execution.

Borutka wrote:

Art in the sense of proper execution.

What are the grounds for such claims, although I can only guess what kind of art it is and what line it is made of.

freebsd wrote:

Borutka wrote:

Art in the sense of proper execution.

What are the grounds for such claims, although I can only guess what kind of art it is and what line it is made of.

According to the construction or engineering practice, a device with a power above 2kW should be supplied from a separate dedicated line (circuit), derived from the switchgear. This is commonly available knowledge. For details, a colleague may ask, for example, the admin of the design group, a colleague of Retrofood.

Borutka wrote:

According to the construction or engineering practice, a device with a power above 2kW should be powered from a separate dedicated line (circuit), derived from the switchgear. This is commonly available knowledge. For details, a colleague may ask, for example, the admin of the design group, a colleague of Retrofood.

After all, I am asking my friend to justify my own statement. What are the criteria for using a separate circuit - maybe it should be promoted more in this thread?
It's good that instead of the "line", the colleague has already switched to a different nomenclature (circuit) and you do not have to guess. Instead of art, a standard would be useful, for example.

freebsd wrote:

After all, from my friend, I will ask for a justification

We are not in the electric forum, so I do not feel compelled to quote standards.
But it doesn't hurt to read the opposite opinion.
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic3603204.html#18095612
https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic2909283.html#14024061

Does anyone have experience with electrolux dryers with a so-called 3D scanner.
It is mainly about drying wool and down jackets.
Maybe this is an unnecessary gimmick. Maybe more buggy or problematic.
Any opinions?