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Arlec Grid Connect PC191HA Plug-In Socket with Energy Meter Teardown

jessemclachlan 15087 73
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  • #61 21052422
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    >>21038285

    My wick just arrive and have succesfully removed the CB2s from the unit.
    Connected the pinout to the USB TTL I have... and have about 500 retries (as per flasher UI) I was only able to get the bus 2 times... both failed erasing the flash...

    any tips to get the bus easily? I connect the pins from CBS2 directly to the USB TTL and short the CEN to the GND of the USB TTL
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  • #62 21052462
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    CEN is not reliable for me. The reliable method for me is to:
    1. connect 3.3V, GND, RX, TX
    2. start flasher (getting bus)
    3. disconnect 3.3V, maybe also temporarily short the 3.3V from the device side (NOT THE POWER SUPPLY) to GND
    4. reconnect 3.3V
    5. device should boot up and flasher should get bus

    This method works best with CB2S/CB3S/etc module desoldered

    Added after 50 [seconds]:

    You can also check hid_download_py method, but the bus procedure is the same:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKkiqDNFIx8
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
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  • #63 21053561
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    CEN is not reliable for me. The reliable method for me is to:
    1. connect 3.3V, GND, RX, TX
    2. start flasher (getting bus)
    3. disconnect 3.3V, maybe also temporarily short the 3.3V from the device side (NOT THE POWER SUPPLY) to GND
    4. reconnect 3.3V
    5. device should boot up and flasher should get bus

    This method works best with CB2S/CB3S/etc module desoldered

    Added after 50 [seconds]:

    You can also check hid_download_py method, but the bus procedure is the same:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKkiqDNFIx8


    On step 3, when you say the device, is that the CB2s?
    I tried following this and connecting the 3,3v pin of the CB2s to GND before connecting it to the 3.3V of the USB TTL... still no luck.
    Tried multiple times... I'm guessing I have a dead CB2S

    What are my options next? ESP-02?
  • #64 21053726
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Can you show a photo of your circuit? Is this the first CB2S you flash?
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  • #65 21057773
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    Person holding a small blue module connected to a breadboard with colored wires. A breadboard with a connected USB TTL module and wires.

    Yes this is my first time flashing CB2S... I've used this USB TTL to flash many sonoffs to tasmota before. not sure if it will work.
  • #66 21057898
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Are you powering it from 3.3V LDO on the second board?
    A hand holding a sensor module connected with wires to a breadboard with a power supply.
    Powering from USB to TTL may not work because it may not provide current...
    Are you sure you have connected the GND of both power board and USB to TTL together?
    I would also try to shorten the wires...
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  • #67 21059201
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    Hi kaczmarek2,

    In the photo, I've only setup the CB2S to USB TTL directly.
    Anyway, I've tried my breadboard powersupply to power the CB2S (3.3V) and have connected the GND of the USB TTL, CB2S and PowerSupply together. In this setup the 3.3V of the USB TTL is not connected to anything. Is that correct?

    Regards
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  • #68 21059343
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    This sounds okay but for the best results you should watch our video where we flash CB2S outside the circuit:


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  • #69 21086409
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    >>21041025

    I've got now 2 more devices broken (4 now in total)... could it be capacity issue or something else?
    should I be looking at a blown capacitor?
    What capacitor specs should I be buying?

    Thanks
  • #70 21086438
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Did you enable PowerSave 1 on those two devices?
    I've gave some details in: https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3944452-30.html#21040293
    The capacitor should match the old one and be LOW-ESR.
    Can you provide some photos of the board?
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  • #71 21205747
    randomalias324
    Level 8  
    >>21086438
    Its funny that this topic has turned toward capacitors - I just logged in to report about a few of my fathers going down, and one of mine, in exactly the way described - Working fine then suddenly randomly resetting.
    I cracked mine open and found it had a swollen 470uf 10v capacitor.
    Photo of a circuit board with various electronic components held in hand.
    Sucked it out and had a new one in in a few minutes.
    Close-up of an electronic circuit with a replaced 470uF 10V capacitor.
    Didn't really need to test the old one, but I did.
    Electronic tester display showing diode measurement results. A person holding an electric meter with a display showing the number 255. In the background, there is a soldering station and a box with electronic components.
    Cracking the case open is very easy with a bread knife. Super glue back together.

    Might pick up a few extra capacitors next time I'm at the electronics store, I have a lot of these units around the house, all originally flashed with cloud cutter
  • #72 21205750
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home
    Just make sure to get low ESR ones or you will be doing the replacement again very soon enough.

    The capacitor fault is very common, we've also recently shown such issue on our polish site (not yet translated):
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic4072243.html
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  • #73 21205755
    randomalias324
    Level 8  
    >>21205750
    It is a low ESR 16v replacement. The green one pictured is the style Jaycar in Australia are currently stocking
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  • #74 21861997
    HardwareDude
    Level 1  
    In late 2025, Bunnings Australia commenced stocking Series 4 of the PC191HA (with remaining Series 3 stock in runout). It looks like these are cost reduced and introduce additional safety features. Not full-on enshittification, but gradually heading in this direction. In any case, I decided to buy a Series 4 unit to experiment.
    Label of ARLEC PC191HA smart plug and small T1-2S-NL module with wires
    The physical size is slightly larger than the Series 2/3, and the toggle button is a much smaller rectangle instead of the larger round button found on the earlier series. An extra physical safety feature is the shutters for the active and neutral pins, which explains why the Series 4 dimensions are larger than predecessors.
    Disassembled device: white plastic housing and green PCB with electronic components on a tabletop
    Given Series 4 was released many years since Tuya was patched, I immediately assumed whatever stock firmware was on them would be invulnerable to any sort of cloudcutter exploit, so I proceeded straight to disassembly. As the saying goes, "Don't turn it on. Take it apart!"

    Opening the case is the same as previous series. Simply pry carefully at the seams to break the ultrasonic weld.

    Inside, one welcome change is there is far less silicone holding components together. Only one blob of silicone has been applied near one of the capacitors. The other obvious change is a new module, a Tuya T1-2S-NL. This uses the Beken BK7238. T1 modules have a very similar pinout to the WB2S/CB2S modules with the exception of a few GPIO. The 3v3, GND, RX1, TX1 and CEN pins are all in the same position.
    Green PCB with two black TIANDI relays and capacitors; a small blue pin-header module lies to the right

    Another notable change is the live/neutral AC prongs are captively moulded into the rear panel, making it is necessary to use a relatively high powered iron to de-solder them so the board can be freed. I guess this new design increases reliability by utilising the case as a strain relief for the prongs. That way, the solder joints don't experience stress each time the PC191HA is plugged/unplugged from the wall. By contrast, the Series 1/2/3 PCB could be pulled out of the plastic case without desoldering the prongs.

    Once the board has been detached, the underside can be accessed to flash the T1 module. In my case, I also desoldered the T1 module for flashing.
    Disassembled Arlec Grid Connect smart plug with PCB, casing parts, and connected wires on a white surface

    As of posting this (Feb/Mar 2026), ESPhome doesn't yet have support for BK7238. However I was able to flash the latest OpenBK without issue. Using BK7231GUIFlashTool (Build 250), I first dumped the original firmware, then analysed it giving rise to the following:
    - WiFi LED on P8
    - Button (channel 1) on P24
    - Relay (channel 1) on P26
    Device seems to be using T1-2S-NL module, which is using BK7238.
    And the Tuya section starts at 2052096 (0x1F5000), which is a default T1/XR806 and some T34/BK7231N offset.


    The energy monitoring chip is a BL0942 but I haven't yet figured out the GPIO connections, let alone any calibration attempts. I was happy to initially use it as a simple MQTT smart plug without any energy monitoring. Later I'll do some further investigations to work out the energy monitoring function.
    Close-up of a green PCB with ICs, SMD resistors and capacitors, and visible solder joints.

    Unlike the previous series, there is no WiFi LED; only a single blue status LED is provided. This is a shame as it would be nice to have separate coloured LEDs to indicate the the WiFi status as well as the the relay state. There is likely to be a spare GPIO on the T1 module should anyone wish to add a secondary LED indicator.

    Overall it looks like Series 4 have been designed to make it much more difficult to re-flash with ESPHome or OpenBK. But given the low price ($15 AUD as of Feb 2026), is still worthwhile if you're handy with electronics/modding and want to avoid third party cloud usage at all costs.

    Luckily I was able to scoop up the last few remaining Series 3 stock, with all current 2026 stock being Series 4 only.
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the Arlec Grid Connect PC191HA Smart Plug-In Socket with Energy Meter, focusing on a teardown and firmware flashing process using Cloudcutter and OpenBeken. Users share experiences with the device's internal components, including the BK7231T chip and the BL0937 energy meter. Issues with firmware updates, button functionalities, and energy measurement accuracy are addressed. Users report varying success with flashing methods, including the need for specific pin configurations and troubleshooting steps for devices that fail to update or operate correctly. Capacitor failures are noted as a common issue, particularly in the Series 2 models, prompting discussions on replacement and repair strategies.
Summary generated by the language model.
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