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Arlec Grid Connect PC191HA Plug-In Socket with Energy Meter Teardown

jessemclachlan 12750 72
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  • #61 21052422
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    >>21038285

    My wick just arrive and have succesfully removed the CB2s from the unit.
    Connected the pinout to the USB TTL I have... and have about 500 retries (as per flasher UI) I was only able to get the bus 2 times... both failed erasing the flash...

    any tips to get the bus easily? I connect the pins from CBS2 directly to the USB TTL and short the CEN to the GND of the USB TTL
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  • #62 21052462
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    CEN is not reliable for me. The reliable method for me is to:
    1. connect 3.3V, GND, RX, TX
    2. start flasher (getting bus)
    3. disconnect 3.3V, maybe also temporarily short the 3.3V from the device side (NOT THE POWER SUPPLY) to GND
    4. reconnect 3.3V
    5. device should boot up and flasher should get bus

    This method works best with CB2S/CB3S/etc module desoldered

    Added after 50 [seconds]:

    You can also check hid_download_py method, but the bus procedure is the same:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKkiqDNFIx8
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
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  • #63 21053561
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    p.kaczmarek2 wrote:
    CEN is not reliable for me. The reliable method for me is to:
    1. connect 3.3V, GND, RX, TX
    2. start flasher (getting bus)
    3. disconnect 3.3V, maybe also temporarily short the 3.3V from the device side (NOT THE POWER SUPPLY) to GND
    4. reconnect 3.3V
    5. device should boot up and flasher should get bus

    This method works best with CB2S/CB3S/etc module desoldered

    Added after 50 [seconds]:

    You can also check hid_download_py method, but the bus procedure is the same:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKkiqDNFIx8


    On step 3, when you say the device, is that the CB2s?
    I tried following this and connecting the 3,3v pin of the CB2s to GND before connecting it to the 3.3V of the USB TTL... still no luck.
    Tried multiple times... I'm guessing I have a dead CB2S

    What are my options next? ESP-02?
  • #64 21053726
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Can you show a photo of your circuit? Is this the first CB2S you flash?
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #65 21057773
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    Person holding a small blue module connected to a breadboard with colored wires. A breadboard with a connected USB TTL module and wires.

    Yes this is my first time flashing CB2S... I've used this USB TTL to flash many sonoffs to tasmota before. not sure if it will work.
  • #66 21057898
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Are you powering it from 3.3V LDO on the second board?
    A hand holding a sensor module connected with wires to a breadboard with a power supply.
    Powering from USB to TTL may not work because it may not provide current...
    Are you sure you have connected the GND of both power board and USB to TTL together?
    I would also try to shorten the wires...
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
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  • #67 21059201
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    Hi kaczmarek2,

    In the photo, I've only setup the CB2S to USB TTL directly.
    Anyway, I've tried my breadboard powersupply to power the CB2S (3.3V) and have connected the GND of the USB TTL, CB2S and PowerSupply together. In this setup the 3.3V of the USB TTL is not connected to anything. Is that correct?

    Regards
  • #68 21059343
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    This sounds okay but for the best results you should watch our video where we flash CB2S outside the circuit:


    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #69 21086409
    gen_mheloy
    Level 5  
    >>21041025

    I've got now 2 more devices broken (4 now in total)... could it be capacity issue or something else?
    should I be looking at a blown capacitor?
    What capacitor specs should I be buying?

    Thanks
  • #70 21086438
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Did you enable PowerSave 1 on those two devices?
    I've gave some details in: https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3944452-30.html#21040293
    The capacitor should match the old one and be LOW-ESR.
    Can you provide some photos of the board?
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
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  • #71 21205747
    randomalias324
    Level 8  
    >>21086438
    Its funny that this topic has turned toward capacitors - I just logged in to report about a few of my fathers going down, and one of mine, in exactly the way described - Working fine then suddenly randomly resetting.
    I cracked mine open and found it had a swollen 470uf 10v capacitor.
    Photo of a circuit board with various electronic components held in hand.
    Sucked it out and had a new one in in a few minutes.
    Close-up of an electronic circuit with a replaced 470uF 10V capacitor.
    Didn't really need to test the old one, but I did.
    Electronic tester display showing diode measurement results. A person holding an electric meter with a display showing the number 255. In the background, there is a soldering station and a box with electronic components.
    Cracking the case open is very easy with a bread knife. Super glue back together.

    Might pick up a few extra capacitors next time I'm at the electronics store, I have a lot of these units around the house, all originally flashed with cloud cutter
  • #72 21205750
    p.kaczmarek2
    Moderator Smart Home  
    Just make sure to get low ESR ones or you will be doing the replacement again very soon enough.

    The capacitor fault is very common, we've also recently shown such issue on our polish site (not yet translated):
    https://www.elektroda.pl/rtvforum/topic4072243.html
    Helpful post? Buy me a coffee.
  • #73 21205755
    randomalias324
    Level 8  
    >>21205750
    It is a low ESR 16v replacement. The green one pictured is the style Jaycar in Australia are currently stocking
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Topic summary

The discussion revolves around the Arlec Grid Connect PC191HA Smart Plug-In Socket with Energy Meter, focusing on a teardown and firmware flashing process using Cloudcutter and OpenBeken. Users share experiences with the device's internal components, including the BK7231T chip and the BL0937 energy meter. Issues with firmware updates, button functionalities, and energy measurement accuracy are addressed. Users report varying success with flashing methods, including the need for specific pin configurations and troubleshooting steps for devices that fail to update or operate correctly. Capacitor failures are noted as a common issue, particularly in the Series 2 models, prompting discussions on replacement and repair strategies.
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